1998 Toyota 4runner rear axle bearing removal and install - 3rd Gen 4Runner with abs

In this video I will show you how to replace the rear axle bearing on a 1998 Toyota 4runner with abs. I use a fixture that was made out of an used axle housing from the junk yard. Using this method you can remove the axle bearing, lock rings and reluctor ring at the same time without cutting them off. If you install the parts incorrectly the axle seal will be damaged or won't seal at all.
This procedure will be very similar for Toyota Pickups, Toyota Tacoma, Toyota 4Runner, Toyota Hilux Surf, Toyota T100, Toyota Hilux, Toyota Tundra and Toyota Sequoya from 1981-2008. If you do this on a early non abs vehicle then you can skip the reluctor steps and the second lockring.
The pipe I use to hammer the bearing and rings back on is approximately 1.63" I.D. steel pipe.
A few different pressing tools are available on amazon
Axle bearing tool - amzn.to/2x1B6X8
otc bearing tool - amzn.to/2oSyeZd
20 ton Shop Press - amzn.to/2wYjI6G
Snap Ring pliers -amzn.to/2Qcfmkp
Always check that these parts fit your exact vehicle
Tone Ring - reluctor - amzn.to/2C4xsQb
Bearing kit for 2001 and up - amzn.to/2EcqjPf
bearing kit for 2000 and down - amzn.to/2QkgSRg
snapring - amzn.to/2wXqoB7
retainer - amzn.to/2QJVubr
axle tube oring - amzn.to/2UxvWgJ
The above link may be affiliate links that help support this channel at no additional cost to you. Thank You
If you still need to remove your axle then here is a link for that video. • 1998 Toyota 4runner re...
Please like and subscribe if you found the information helpful and if you have any questions put them in the comments down below.

[@boonboom3528]

God damn.....finally a straightforward video without all the extra bullshit! I’m already stressed out being on the road and blowing a seal, and then having to sort through extraordinarily long videos that aren’t practical. Thank you kind sir!

[@snowrider141]

This is still the best video! Straight to the point and no talking crap!

[@pedroclarosjr.2706]

Great video. Staright to the point. Exactly what i was looking for.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

No problem, glad I could help.

[@bravethewildgaming8139]

Very simple to follow thank you!

[@it4dps]

Thanks for doing this video. It's always great to see a common sense approach to a job. Especially after watching the video of the guy was on a mission to use his cut off wheel and then replace every part except for the axle shaft. (..and maybe the passenger side rear door..)

[@dannytheplumber7394]

Great video, thank you and keep up the good work.

[@rjright7373]

Good video but one mistake; when you pound the bearing back in you must pound on the outer part and not the inner.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

The outer race is slip fit into the backing plate. All the tension is on the inner race. Pressing on the inner race is the correct way. The only way that would be more suited is to use an actual press but when I do that I still press on the inner race. The factory tool presses on the inner race. When pressing the front wheel bearings into the knuckle you need to press on the outer race and then when you press the front hub into the bearing you press on the inner race.

[@cruiserhog1]

dude the axle tube idea is brilliance, i do love it when they explode

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

cruiserhog1 I did an older truck today and my axle tube jig was about three inches too long and I had to use a deep well socket to press on the axle. I suppose I will have to shorten it up a little or build another one for the older trucks. That axle tube came out of a rolled over 4Runner and it was bent so we put it to good use.

[@cruiserhog1]

@@ThePracticalMechanic yeah i like your idea so much im actively looking for a donor tube...normally we take everything off the backing plate and use thick press steel between the axle and back plate...it works but its ackward, not really a positive feeling and always puts some distortion stress on the plate. and welding the studs onto the tube as placeholders is another great idea. thats all i work on is toyota trucks and cruisers so I really appreciate this video. sub'd

[@cruiserhog1]

btw the pipe is a great way to get birfields off the inner axle, pipe in a vice, drop the shaft thru/down the pipe and it will pop right off

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Great tip I will have to try that. I just sold my FZJ80 with slightly clicking birfields. It would have been a good test subject

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

When looking for a donor tube I would use a 3rd gen 4Runner with abs and then you can use the tube on most Toyota’s from 1980-2005. The newer Toyotas have an offset bolt pattern and are different left to right.

[@yvandeleon6506]

Excelente tu video explicativo

[@rt-awesomeriley70]

the tool you use that the end to press the new inner axel seal in where is that from and what's it called?

[@robhertcarvalho5570]

Great video

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Thank you. Glad I could help.

[@stevehanwright481]

Good work

[@MrDejesusjoao]

Thank you

[@franksgarageandcustoms8321]

Wish i saw this sooner. I will add the raised end on centre race of bearing faces outwards towards drum flange.

[@drommej]

Great video the best

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@gustavozamorajr2186]

I keep getting them with the reluctor covering the snaprings.. and i can never get it off unless i cut them and replace them

[@damacknificent151]

Now where is your shop?

[@dylanseagraves1]

Did you just drill & tap holes for bolts to hold the abs & retainer while you pressed out the axle?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

The tool was made from a old axle housing. It bolts up to the axle just like it would in the truck. I welded the 1” plate to the top and welded 4 bolts onto the side of the tube to store the nuts.

[@heftyjo2893]

Toyota service manual says to grind a flat face onto the ABS signal ring and the retainer ring with an angle grinder and then use a sharp chisel to cut through the ring. This will make pressing the bearing off go more smoothly. And in theory means someone with enough height and strength could just take hold of the drum brake backing plate and bang the end of the axle onto some plywood to hammer the old bearing out. And then just use a section of galvanized pipe from the corner hardware store to bang a new one in. Of course, this means you'll need new rings.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

I keep the tone rings in stock just case one gets damaged but the factory repair manual seems wasteful. Those tone rings are over $50. In the newer Toyota axles I’ll cut them with a torch only because the tone wheel is included with the bearing.

[@JohnPoissant]

Great video. The shop pressed my abs ring and collar on to far....they actually went down to the snap ring. Should I try to raise the abs ring and collar or get new ones? Thanks in advance.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

John Poissant I have seen that in the past and it is quite difficult to get the ring back up without damaging it. The only way I’ve been able to move back without cutting it is to heat it up and use a prybar on both sides to get it to move. I keep a few extra lock rings and reluctor rings in stock now just in case I have to cut one off.

[@JohnPoissant]

ThePracticalMechanic ok sounds good. Can you tell me where you got that pipe (the size ) to bang the ring and collar on?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

The pipe is just something I had lying around but you can normally get short pieces from a welding shop or pay a few buck to get one cut at a metal supplier. I will measure the pipe tomorrow and post the size.

[@JohnPoissant]

ThePracticalMechanic thanks!!

[@JohnPoissant]

You are awesome! Thanks

[@glazecase]

Great video!! Any chance you could tell me the ID of the pipe you use to hammer the bearing and rings back in?

[@boscotheclown921]

The base and thickest part of the axle shaft is 40mm and the od of the race is 50mm So finding pipe that’s just over 40mm Id is what you need. I found one at the metal supply shop that was 41mm id and 48.2mm od.

[@lettheguudtimezroll2493]

I would love to stop by and have this service done on my 97 4Runner... where are you located?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Coug Falcon a couple hours south of Denver Colorado. For more details and if your near this area send me an email [e-mail]

[@Bino-zm9bl]

Do you know if the 2013 4runners have the same set up?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Bino 9903 the 2003 and up 4Runners use a different bearing that can be pressed the same way but with a different tool. The newer bearings use an offset bolt pattern and they are not interchangeable for left and right. I recently bought the tool for the newer style and of course none have come in since. I’m hoping the tool works. Before I had the tool I still changed the bearings but it required additional work. Using a torch I would carefully melt the ball bearings and that would allow me to remove the backing plate and bearing retainer from the axle. Then using a cutoff wheel I cut the bearing race still attached to the axle. We are one of the only shops in my region that replace these bearings without fussing too much but I normally charge an hour per side if I have to cut them apart and .7 hrs if I can press them. Hope you can get yours handled. If you are in Colorado I can help you out.

[@Bino-zm9bl]

@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks for the info.... I'm south of Houston... so far only shop to say they will do it is the dealership.... almost 1300 parts and labor!!! All the others didnt have that new tool you bought. Waiting a 2 more for pricing and capabilities

[@cozneffect5667]

@@ThePracticalMechanic where in Colorado are you ?

[@dennismirante9528]

Terrific video! Do you reuse the old abs ring and retaining collars or do you use new ones? Do you have to adjust the inner retaining collar position for the newer OEM inner seals? I have seen a few videos claiming that the position of the collar must be reversed and adjusted to permit the retainer to ride the middle of the seal, otherwise the claim is that it is too close to the beveled edge and the seal will eventually leak. Do you use OEM or aftermarket parts? Thanks for any help you can offer!

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Normally the wheel bearing kits I get have an extra retaining ring so I install that ring where the seal rides. If I don't get a new ring then I switch positions of the rings like you mentioned but I also keep several new reluctors and retainers in stock at my shop. I wouldn't install the race backwards because they have a slight taper on one edge to prevent damage to the seal during installation. I keep the reluctors in stock because I get a lot of axles carried in by people that have already pressed the reluctor onto the axle too far and sometimes heat is required to remove them. What year is your Toyota? The 2001 and up use a bearing with a slightly taller inner race.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Also forgot to mention that I typically use aftermarket parts sourced locally from Napa or similar because we are a Napa Auto Care Center we can offer a better warranty if we source locally. On my personal vehicles I get them from amazon or rockauto.

[@dennismirante9528]

Thanks so much for the reply. I have a 97 4Runner and previously ordered replacement bearings 90363-40020-77 and the other stock OEM replacement parts. So should I leave the reluctor in its current position and move the retainer inward 1 mm so that the seal centers on it?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Dennis Mirante at 0:06 you can see the wear mark on my original retainer from the seal. It was pretty close to center. I think as long as your close you should have a problem. 1 mm in or out wouldn’t be bad in this case. If your old seal was riding on the beveled edge of the seal then I wouldn’t press the new on quite as far. It’s easy to tap the reluctor and retainer on a little farther but it’s very difficult to move it back out. So you could leave it out a mm, put some grease on the seal and test fit it in the housing to see where the seal rides on the retainer.

[@dennismirante9528]

Thanks again for the advice. Will do.

[@chieflouie2821]

My suv has a breather for the gear housing and they say if it clogs, the pressure could cause a seal leak. I thought the pressure is not enough to blow those seals.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

We have the breather plug up on these in the past. The breather is locate on top of the differential housing. It looks like random bolt sticking up but it has a little metal cap that can spin. If the cap is covered in mud or if dirt has stuck to the oil mist that can seep out of the cap it can clog the breather.

[@palaciosivan100]

How did you modify the old axle to remove the parts and tube to install the parts and not damage them? rather make them then pay 300 for those tools!Love you vids man so simple and easy to understand!

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

I cut one side off an old bent axle housing I had and welded a plate on the top to put it in the press. That homemade tool has helped press at least 100 bearings off. I have one of the amazon ones as well because mine won’t work on many of the 4th gen and newer Tacoma’s and 4runners. The newer ones have a offset bolt pattern that is different left and right.

[@palaciosivan100]

ThePracticalMechanic nice i have an old axle laying around. what did you use to install the bearing, tone ring ect.. The tool I saw you hammer them down to position.

[@Jacob-tq2kv]

@@palaciosivan100 I think that's the Toyota special tool called "a pipe"

[@jamesthompson1952]

So what do you do if you forgot to measure ? Is there a spec?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Derrick Stewart you could base it off the measurements in the video. There is a spec but I believe it requires a special tool to measure it. The ultimate goal is to have the reluctor(toothed wheel) and lock ring installed at the appropriate location for the abs to function and the axles seal to not leak. There is probably a range of about 3/16 that will work without issues. Most common problem is installing them too far and then the lock ring doesn’t make contact with the seal.

[@jamesthompson1952]

@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks for the quick response. I paid a shop to do my bearings and the abs ring was pressed down super far when I get them back probably exposing 1 inch of the shiny part on the axle. Yours only looks like it's exposing 1/4 inch if that. And they wanna keep telling me it's correct which I know that's way to much I think they just pressed until it was bottomed out. Do you think if I base off your measurements it should work?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Derrick Stewart oh no!! They probably pressed it all they way down. The shiny part is about 3/16”. I have take a few apart that had about an 1/8” of shiny axle-shaft visible.

[@jerryp2433]

I'm thinking about taking the snap ring off and then bolting the backing plate back onto the axle housing. Then I can use a slide hammer to pull off the axle and retainers. That way I don't have to use a press.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

In theory that should work but I’ve never tried it. Let us know how it goes.

[@jerryp2433]

@@ThePracticalMechanic I found out that my differential breather was clogged. I'm going to replace it and drive around and see if it still leaks first.

[@jerryp2433]

@@ThePracticalMechanic it didn't work. I was really wailing on it and I think the bearing retainer groove moved a hair. I only tried for a few minutes though. Maybe if I kept doing it for like a half hour, but I don't think I have the patience.

[@qazafiqadir719]

qazafi auto reparing romg work

[@willardearl76]

What size pipe is that?

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Earl Duff the inside diameter of the pipe I use to put it back together is 1.63” the outside diameter is about 2”. The pipe I used to build the removal tool is about 2.5”.

[@willardearl76]

@@ThePracticalMechanic did you have the bearing install pipe machined or is it off the shelf? Schedule 40 and 80 pipe doesn't match the ID.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Earl Duff I just grab my calipers and measured it in the outside diameter is 1.88 The inside diameter is 1.62 and the wall thickness is 0.145. This pipe is not machined to any special dimension but one of my techs did grind a slight chamfer on the end after the pipe got beat up a little bit. It should be an off-the-shelf pipe or tubing size. Hopefully those measurements will help you out.

[@willardearl76]

That really helps, it appears to be 1 1/2 IN schedule 40 pipe. I really appreciate the assist. I am getting ready to fab the puller up this weekend.

[@dylanbarline-homes6369]

Earl Duff call around to local metal suppliers & say you need a two inch diameter TUBE not a pipe with a wall thickness between .190 & .120 that’ll get you close enough

[@franciscoramirezalfaro1071]

De izusu rodeo año 96

[@MrBuzzsaw118911]

this is way easier then cutting the abs ring and lockring wtf, watched the wrong video first I guess

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Mr BuzzSaw I agree. Not everyone has the pressing tools to do it this way and have to resort to cutting it apart. Both ways will work but with the tools I’ve built this way is much faster for me.

[@MrBuzzsaw118911]

ThePracticalMechanic The guy i was watching cut the abs ring and lockring off, and then he proceeded to his press to press the axle out, I don’t really understand why cutting would be necessary if he has a press?

[@Bino-zm9bl]

I've had 3 shops tell me they cant do it because they dont have a special toyota tool for the press! I need to do this on my 2013 4runner

[@sonyaenix2336]

Start from the beginning please.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Link in the description for the removal video.

[@austincampo9367]

Don’t hit the bearing in the center.

[@tonysilva8222]

Shit you make it look ez those rear bearings is a bitch

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

They get easier with practice but every once a while I still get one that fights me. Sometimes I wonder what’s going to break first the bearing or the shop press.

[@jbsmith86]

driving everything in by slamming a pipe into it is pretty cringe

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

gets the job done and I've never had a failure doing this way for the last 20 yrs. A press would be the best way but I have never felt the need to make a fixture to accomplish it.

[@youretheChrist]

​@@ThePracticalMechanic what size pipe?