2,000x faster than epoxy! DIY advanced composites

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Stand Racing

Stand Racing

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 43
@chubbyninja842
@chubbyninja842 5 ай бұрын
Make a positive and negative aluminum mold so you can squish the medium in the middle for a quicker and more accurate shape.
@rylan71
@rylan71 Жыл бұрын
There is a UV activated fiberglass resin. In California I use “sun flash” Allows a lot more working time, but 5min in the sun and it’s ready for another layer.
@poptartmcjelly7054
@poptartmcjelly7054 Жыл бұрын
That's kind of how they made the composite panels on the Trabant. Also you might want to wear a decent respirator and find a spare oven to melt plastic, just so that none of it makes into your food.
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Interesting, were they pretty much done by hand? Yeah... totally with you there haha
@georgedreisch2662
@georgedreisch2662 Жыл бұрын
What about using your pre-made sheet as stock, and vacuum forming as you would acrylic sheet? The fabric weave type may also influence the formability and saturation characteristics.
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
That would be a good application for this I believe. Someone has offered a large vacuum pump to me to use for this idea, so we'll see once that's in hand!
@thomasmcbride9023
@thomasmcbride9023 6 ай бұрын
Instead of using plaster for mold try a jif- set floor repair product and mix with adhesive milk mix. It's always comes out smooth and won't crack.
@godzuki2099
@godzuki2099 Жыл бұрын
Metal molds are probably a good idea, with integrated heaters, figure out what the best temp to demold is might also be useful, some fdm materials still stick to a bed 30°C but pop themselves off under 25°C for example (from a glass bed)
@JimJamShimmyShatts
@JimJamShimmyShatts Жыл бұрын
I've never done anything with a mold so maybe just ignore this comment, but I've got some thoughts. Maybe impregnate the plaster with the chopped glass to increase strength? And use a relatively thick piece of mild steel cast directly into the bottom of the plaster to help with uniform heating. Then if you can do the entire sheet application process entirely in the oven at temperature to improve layer adhesion
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Definitely good ideas. I think glass inside the plaster can only make things better and not worse. My thought process right now is "how can I apply this solution to a mold the size of a full size fender?" but there is probably a good amount of value in making a small scale part as nicely as possible even if the solution might not scale up.
@MJTVideos
@MJTVideos Жыл бұрын
I’ve been working on new composite ideas for a while and I was thinking about doing something just like this! I’d try making a two-part mold. I’ve used carved wood but any material that can withstand heat is good. Make a compression mold, so a mold with a bottom and top, and then make a mixture of molten plastic and chopped fibers of various lengths. Heat the plastic until it’s viscus like molasses. You want the plastic to be able to extrude. Then place the molten plastic in the bottom mold and clamp the top mold on, extruding excess plastic out until the top and bottom of the mold index. Look up making forged carbon parts because the process is very similar. You can melt the plastic in the same way you did, but instead of using chopped mat, sprinkle chopped fiber inbetween layers.
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
After getting an idea for how many sheets it takes of glass and plastic it takes to get a certain layer thickness, I realized I can throw down many more layers of chopped glass and PP and end up with a pretty uniform sheet. I'm gonna show it in the next video. I'm going to try really hard to make this viable as a single-piece mold. Mostly because I want it to be a superior solution to epoxy fiberglass layups in as many ways as possible, and I want to make really big parts with it. The smaller the part the better it is to use a second mold.
@650jdb
@650jdb Жыл бұрын
At 20:27. Thinking it might be good to make a counter mold to sandwich the material down and maybe a plate of steel on top to add pressure
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Agreed. That may pose a challenge at large scale but it's certainly a good idea.
@strydknaffla7910
@strydknaffla7910 6 ай бұрын
could use a plaster part to make an aluminum mold, and you could always try talc/baby powder, or hairspray for mold release
@Xsiondu
@Xsiondu Жыл бұрын
Damn you're creative!
@quakxy_dukx
@quakxy_dukx 4 ай бұрын
Maybe try fibreglass tissue. Also, you can get fibreglass without the glue for different types of resins
@rogercrier9115
@rogercrier9115 6 ай бұрын
What about the sheet moulding compound they use to make various things like jet ski's and car parts
@tristangillis7365
@tristangillis7365 Жыл бұрын
What about running hotwires through the mould? You'd be able to keep it hot, fairly uniform and could control the heat.
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
+1 I'd definitely like to incorporate that
@RobertWelchman
@RobertWelchman Жыл бұрын
What about vacuum bagging and oven baking, research says some are rated up to 400F...
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Another great suggestion. We're going to have a lot of different avenues to test this in and see where it shines and where it struggles.
@parkerlich5617
@parkerlich5617 Жыл бұрын
Don't know what weight mat you were using but you can get 3/4 oz which I believe is the lightest made. Heat lamps make a good heat source without creating air turbulence, and you can control the temperature by the distance between the lamps and the object you are heating. You can get wire clamp-on heat lamp receptacles that only require a simple stand of some type to mount the lamps to. Material wise, there are companies that I believe still produce thin sheets of unidirectional fiberglass reinforced polypropylene that can be cross-plied 90 degrees for uniform strength and stiffness. Also, your process might lend itself to vacuum bag molding which can be a fairly inexpensive composites fabrication technique.
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Heat lamps are a great idea. I have a couple really strong tubular shaped ones for curing paint, I should see what kind of temps I can get out of them. Any idea where I can find those pre made thin sheets?
@parkerlich5617
@parkerlich5617 Жыл бұрын
I sent you a couple of emails with links to more information.
@TheColorsInGreyLife
@TheColorsInGreyLife Жыл бұрын
Making a clip or latch on plaster mold that attaches to the t-shirt heat press would be great for you I think, that and vacuum pump to suck out air with a little bit of gasket seal around the edges to increase pressure and heat transfer. Maybe it can help with oxidation of the combined materials increasing the separation of the materials when you separate the mold
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
That's interesting, how do you picture the mold attaching to the heat press?
@TheColorsInGreyLife
@TheColorsInGreyLife Жыл бұрын
@@StandRacing I was thinking an overhang indent in the plaster that's covered with some rubber, the plaster would have an outline indent in the inside diameter of the backing where it attaches to the heat press lined with some high temp silicon caulking or similar for having it seal to the mold better. If the heat press can be drilled to allow for a vacuum line to be placed in it then it helps with the mold not experiencing as much stress in certain hot spots for the backing of the mold that attaches there. Then its more about having a horizontal, between the 2 plates, vacuum line that sticks there to allow for air to be sucked out and allow for the mold to properly apply force to the composite material, heat it up, and reduce porosity of the design overall, hopefully. It would mostly be about getting tolerances right and having it not be stretched to too high of an tension that doesn't allow for it to give a bit so it doesn't do a concrete slab problem of cracking and crumbling away. A little bit of something similar to a rebar might work for you too, like a type of material that doesn't expand much with heat and still holds decent strength when tensioned under that heat. Maybe synthetic fiber that is strung and pre-tensioined into the plaster you are using that handles higher heats? It just needs to be anchored to something inside the plaster where you placed the overhang so the overhang has something to brace itself against for the wire and allows for it not to bend as much. I don't think steel wire will do it thanks to the constant heating and cooling, stress and strain problem. The material will likely fail too quickly for the amount of material cost and work put into it. Instead maybe fiberglass would be better, but a brosiclicate? (the one the use for glass that repeatedly see head and stress anyways) would be a better bet that will hopefully last longer as a prototype that can be used for the money, effort, and associated costs after for maintenance, useability, total cost reduction of other issues from its use, and so on. Hope it helps! The one for the bottom would likely just be placed on it and strapped to it more easily since it doesn't have to attach to the top of the heating plate. But you could go all out however you want, its up to you :)
@sublunacy
@sublunacy Жыл бұрын
man you got that sweet printer.. just print more car parts. the afm delete you made for me is great. i am so lucky to have it. thank you 1000X
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it! More car parts are currently being printed 👍
@abcd4736
@abcd4736 Жыл бұрын
Hey so this is really cool and all but like what about nasty fumes getting in your oven :( maybe you should get a shop oven? Just looking out for you, keep up the great videos!
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
I figured plaster by itself was going to be pretty safe, I definitely wouldn't put the plastic itself in there. But, I was wrong. It had a super janky smell the next day lol. I used self clean and it went away thankfully. +1 on retiring kitchen to food preparation only.
@DaveHojo
@DaveHojo Жыл бұрын
Metric is the way to go.
@StandRacing
@StandRacing Жыл бұрын
Lol. You can't quickly measure in metric with your hands and feet though! Palm + thumb = 6" (2 closed fists thumbs out, touching thumb to thumb = 12"
@DaveHojo
@DaveHojo Жыл бұрын
Well, to be fair, I can't quickly measure with a tapemeasure of any unit. Measure 3 times, cut 2 times, start over is my motto!@@StandRacing
@silaswolfe381
@silaswolfe381 5 ай бұрын
why is this better than regular fiberglass?
@StandRacing
@StandRacing 5 ай бұрын
No cure time. Also cheaper and easier to repair because thermoplastic can be reheated to become pliable again.
@darkshadowsx5949
@darkshadowsx5949 6 ай бұрын
is that Trevor Moore? i thought he passed away.
@thomasmcbride9023
@thomasmcbride9023 6 ай бұрын
Seems to me you need to liquify the plastic and pour it over the fiberglass.
@Ratteler
@Ratteler 5 ай бұрын
See if you can build a vacuum former.
@bennanoman
@bennanoman Жыл бұрын
W video
@roxasparks
@roxasparks Жыл бұрын
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