Most Common Mistakes Working With Fiberglass!

[@ProjectGoMad]

Over the years, this is the one channel I keep coming back to. Best channel boat repairs!

[@bobbylawrence3316]

How do you put fiberglass on a steel mold . Like for a lighthouse

[@KeithCarmichaelInFL]

Using your videos as a refrence tool has been AMAZING!!!! Thank you so very much for all the knowledge you pass on to us! It really makes a difference!

[@johnjaromack9530]

These videos are a great resource, I agree. But these pale in comparison to vast wealths of knowledge present on his Patreon. Not tryin’ to sell you on it-don’t get me wrong. Just wanted to pass that on. 👍🏼

[@Dan-cy4ti]

From Down Under, Thank you so much Andy for your years of passing on knowledge. You have helped me so often get through my boat projects..

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Love these videoes Andy ! i have one lesson i learned the hard way as a teenager in South Florida i bought my first boat at 15 Years of age A 21 footer Center Console that had soft floors and had already been stripped out with new Plywood Laid down but not Glassed in Yet all the Resin,Cloth , and Application tools came with the boat and the Rocket Gavanized Trailer the boat was on was worth what i paid for the whole thing i didn’t even have a car so i borrowed my Dads Volvo StationWagon to tow it home full of Piss and Vinegar and a ton of excitement i went right to work Glassing the Plywood ASAP before i had time to build the Center Console that was nonexistent i went to Town i had lots of Spunk but no Paceince so i didn’t Wet it all out correctly or pretreat the weathered. Plywood that really was just AC or outdoor ConstructionGrade Man i rolled severalLayers on that floor and let it fully cure i. that SouthFlorida heat and Sunshine and of course i lost interest so she sat out there for a couple of years i noticed that the UV destroyed all that Resin and it basically was free floating on top of the Plywood next i figured it out it all needed to be ripped out and thrown away because of the Beam it was a extra wide Cloth blah blah also my Mom didn’t like the thing parked on the side of the house i grew up in and had moved out at 17 so she traded it for Lawn Service when her and my Dad divorced ? Oh Well my lesson was simply know what the hell you are getting into and consult the right people i’ve learned a lot over the years and i’ve successfully done a lot of Fiberglassing and Cold Molding Boats i’m also a retired Professional Wood Worker and i’ve owned 17 or 18 Boats over the years ,Wood ,Fiberglass , and Aluminum Hulls and i did a full Restoation on a 1964 Chris Craft Constellation Mahogany CabinCruiser with Fiberglass Cabin sides and Roof on top of the Plywood Deck Which i did reinforce with the WestvEpoxy system and Cloth for Water Tight Seams and Connections ! i also did a lot of Plywood deck Improvements with that System i’m retired now and honestly i watch your channel for entertainment and a learning guide not completely sure what my next Boat project will be but i do understand and admit my Addiction there are a couple of Glen L designs i like and have had my eye on for years ! Who Knows ?

[@henmich]

A few insights, we were taught not to "brush" on the resin, but to press it into the fibers. We were also taught to cut down your fibers on the chip brushes. It makes the brush stiffer, and makes it easier to press out air from the layers. Lastly, always wrap your brush in painters tape near the interface between the fibers and the metal. They are very cheaply made, and you will gouge something with one of those sharp edges on accident and ruin the finish on your mold. (If you are using a mold).

[@JamesDoylesGarage]

I bet you don't know how much FUN my Dad and I enjoy watching this and learning from you. Thanks so much.

[@AugustusCardoso]

You are the greatest. There's no chance I'd have embarked on this boat restoration journey without your wealth of knowledge and generosity to share it for free. Getting ready to glass in my stringers tomorrow. Timing couldn't be better. Thank you!!

[@RichardAsztalos1942]

❤

[@dennisconrad6124]

Not only have I watched probably 1000’s of videos trying to learn about something I know nothing about and getting just about every pilot rating up to Airline Transport Pilot rating then sitting in numerous ground schools learning the systems of various airplanes I’ve flown. I know a good instructor from a bad one. You rate right up there as a good instructor. Very nicely done video. I’m going to subscribe because now I’m trying to learn how to fiberglass, which I know nothing about.

[@jhonsmith3268]

Andy, I am restoring a 1974 Renault Alpine A110 which is 100% Fiberglass and have found very usefull watching your videos!! thanks for sharing with us !!

[@thejohnboatfaithfishingand8078]

Good video! I learned a lot of this on the fly when I glassed my outer hull this past summer. I found out very quickly that you have to know your limits. When I laid down the first layer, I divided the bottom of the hull into left and right halves with an overlap right down the center. (The transom area and float pods were already done.) The plan was to lay one half of the bottom, bow to stern, using one long sheet to cover half of the bottom and then move on to the other side. When I put that first sheet down though, I was within about ten minutes of disaster. By the time I finished working the glass at the bow, the area back by the stern was already firing off! With the Texas heat, there was no time to fix any problems had any come up. Good thing the job went as smoothly as it did because there would have been no time to fix anything! Even though I had resin and hardener premeasured and poured into separate cups waiting to be mixed, I didn't have a helper to do the mixing when I was ready for the next batch of resin. I had to stop in the middle of the wet out to mix resin, and that takes time. It was so hot, it was firing off almost as fast as I laid it down and it was all I could do to stay ahead of it, and that was because I tried to do too much at one time. After that near fiasco, I cut the long sheets and overlapped them, and addressed the overlaps when I faired it out. In other words, I divided the bottom of the boat into quarters instead of halves in order to have smaller pieces of cloth to work with. Now that it's faired out and painted, you'd have to know where the overlaps are to see them. I used a combination of six ounce and eight ounce cloth to keep the weight down. I'm building my boat specifically for the coastal marshes and shallow flats - skinny water, and weight has to be the main consideration.

[@dewindoethdwl2798]

Brilliant, I needed to see this video. Usually I have resin in my hair and wet glass fibres on both hands within five minutes of mixing the resin!

[@larrylaye9276]

Andys advice and jamestown distributors= success and quality on any boat project. Thanks to both.

[@TediumGenius]

One day I'll put your work to practice, but in the meantime I'm learning loads and enjoying your videos tremendously! Thanks for your hard work and great productions!

[@75MBJ]

I have watched a multitude of videos on all manner of, how to DYI. What not to do is something they all seem to omit. This tutorial was great, even before my first attempt at working with glass I can see where I just may have gone wrong, thank you so much, I'm off to the workshop!

[@bobguy6511]

Great video Andy. I have rebuilt quite a few power boats and as an old fella I use polyester resin for layups and epoxy for gluing. I get many people saying you must use epoxy for layups on plywood. I have always pre wet the ply prior to layup and have never had any issues. It sure pleased me that you used polyester in your test. I have been a subscriber to your channel for a long time and look forward to your videos. Cheers from Australia Bob

[@jenette16]

Now, I worked in a fiberglass shop that predominantly used epoxy resin, very little polyester. I was told that epoxy will bond to polyester, but polyester does not give a good bond to epoxy. That's what was taught in our classes. Hmm, now I'm wondering if this is true.

[@robertchilders8698]

​@@jenette16Its TRUE!

[@moonshadowdrifting]

I needed this 20 years ago. Know it now. But forget. Thanks for the reminder

[@wrongfullyaccused7139]

I must have watched dozen videos of people building their own kayaks and canoes. Nearly all of them laid the raw glass on the beautiful wooden hull they built and then proceed to pour and squeegee the resin into the glass. I have always wondered about that wooden hull sucking up the resin causing a poor bond. For example, whenever I glue up wooden objects I always lay a thin coat on both pieces for the exact same reason. The wood sucks up the adhesive and results in a weaker bond if you only coat one side. Thank you for your video. It confirmed what I have always thought. Thumbs up.

[@donewing2536]

A real treat to see a professional at work

[@jimferry3509]

thank you, I have worried about saturated the glass too much. so, I think I was using too little resin. the good news is I am just getting started. I can change my technique. when I can vacuum bag, I typically use quite a bit, assuming the excess will be pulled out. It is the instances where I have to layup with out vacuum bagging I get into trouble. I also use too much pressure. this was helpful.

[@lynkpaul2171]

Once again, another important lesson shared. When you have been doing this for as long as and as much as you have, over the years, you pick up all the do's and dont's us inexperienced people wouldn't know about. Then kindly share it so we do not make the same mistakes. Thanks to this, I will be able to do it right the first time, on a boat I have designed and will build sometime in the near future. Thanks again Andy.

[@Thorskonto]

You could work the fiberglass with a camfered roller before adding resin on tom to avoid trapping air into fibers and improve the outcome even more. THX for sharing👍

[@bennyg949]

Aweome work man. I know how long these vids take to cut and edit. Plus the knowledge alone. Much love from Australia!

[@jimzivny1554]

I've done a lot of fiberglass repairs over the years on heavy truck hoods, some nostalgia race cars and friends boats. This was a very good video, I've had to re-do a lot of amateur repairs and you've touched on the worst mistakes. People who haven't developed skills with glass should do some practice pieces as you've demonstrated.

[@robertchilders8698]

I've made the truck front, for both Mack and Peterbilt! Many years ago! All fiberglass. You probably repaired some of my handy work! How and what have you repaired?

[@kantamana1]

Thank you for making us all much more aware and showing us why this is so critical!

[@ElismyJudge]

Cheers Andy, I appreciate your videos and that you are willing to share your knowledge. I always learn something from your posts, you're a good man.

[@richardrumplik7023]

Great Job explaining how to do this and the huge failure of adhesion if you don’t do the first step correctly as you explained. Thank you.

[@ScinnerNo1]

Thanks for the vid Andy, brilliant as always! Im a Swedish boat repairman and I was told that you should use 2,5x the amount of poly in weight! e.g. 100g of fiberglass with 250g of poly or vinyl. You still need the feeling for it though!

[@christopherlangham]

Andy. I am so thankful for you and your classes online. You make us so much better and professional in our boat projects… I love doing the “teapot-tap”😂. I would love to speak to you sometime.

[@robertchilders8698]

So glad to see Andy making these videos! Can't help adding my two cents, as I've worked on many fiberglass projects since 1957!

[@robertchilders8698]

P .S. did you know that fiberglass history goes back to world war 2? The AT-6s had fiberglass in them and are still flying!

[@bobcornwell403]

I recently glasses the bottom of my bow transom to the plywood bottom of my boat. I started with the fillet, but wasn't able to press a nice radius into. So I laid the first of two fiber glass laminates on top, then used my finger to form the radius. I then used a plastic putty knife to add resin. I started from the inside then worked outward. I kept adding resin until I could see the wood grain through it. I had some trouble chasing the resin, as it ran out and down hill. But I kept at it. I then added the 2nd layer and did the same. When it all hardened, I could still see the wood grain through it. It wasn't a neat joint, but I think it's a strong one.

[@robertchilders8698]

If you could still see the wood grain, that is good! However you may be using to much resin, that is bad! Extra resin weakens the layup makiñg it more brittle.

[@brandonr8269]

2:33 "a lot of you are kinda thinking this ia kinda dumb and obvious" -- NOPE! Not to me it wasn't, which is why I appreciate tutorials like these that assume nothing of the viewer. Thanks!

[@nigelprendergast2595]

thanks so much, it's great to see someone that knows what they are doing sharing skills. there seems to he a lot of chancers doing fiberglass on you tube.

[@deanraddick9041]

Ya your technique and experience shows, I’m already kicken myself on my last couple of projects, lol. Thank-you for sharing your knowledge. Thanks

[@frankschannel2642]

Awesome demonstration! So clear what to do and what not to do! Thanks so much.

[@blondestrainger]

Cheers , yes wetting out plywood or any other substrate is a must but over saturation is weak without using a bubble buster to squeeze the ply’s tight and or vacuum bag it to use less resin more glass . A good series for teaching basics . I’ve peeled glass off of boats in sheets because they did not wet it out first

[@PhilDuPre]

I am a certified journeyman shipwright recently retired. I am amazed at one thing I've done wrong for the last 50 years. Never too old to learn.

[@alpaca7886]

My suggestion to the beginner. Pause video on completed balsa samples, NOTE color and clarity of presaturated piece and commit that to memory. In the second sample piece, two fingers is a good start but be mindful of roller angle. The greater the angle (closer to 90 degrees) the more resin you will remove, even with two fingers of pressure. When too much resin is removed it will allow the material to suck air in between layers. Strength and flexibility of the glass is getting the correct balance of resin and glass. I suggest doing sample test pieces then do cross section cuts. Sand cut edge, then wet and you should be able to see the layers and any voids. I would also be mindful of material thickness. Doing too much at once can generate a tremendous amount of heat, creating heat fractures. Usually only happens when we went over 3/8 " or in corner areas on hot days. As stated don't rush. Note difference in time and care taken during balsa samples. It really does matter in strength and longevity.

[@Bakanelli]

Thank you for the comment. I didn’t understand only one thing - are you implying that laying a laminate 3/8” or more thick will generate to much heat?…but how can you even apply anything close to that thickness at one go… 3/8 thickness would be around 15 layers….

[@erniemathews5085]

I don't use fiberglass much but if I do it's something important. You are much appreciated.

[@1006V]

I've learned this the hard way as I have some work in my bilge starting to separate from the substrate. (I don't think I bothered to coat the wood at all when I did the work over ten years ago) Eventually I'll have to grind it off and now I know the importance of doing it right. Thanks!

[@robertchilders8698]

Must bilges are saturated with oil! A BIG NO-NO for laying up with fiberglass!

[@galentaylor9953]

I like to apply a final layer of surface-mat, or veil as it’s sometimes called, followed by a layer of peel ply. The vile and peel ply helps bring excess resin to the surface; and when you remove the peel ply you’re left with an attractive even finish perfect for painting of left as-is.

[@CheersWarren]

Andy, if the balsa example is for a repair situation the correct method is fine for amateurs. But soaking the balsa in resin defeats the purpose of a core material , you might just as well use a sponge so that the have almost solid resin as the core. A good laminate in an OEM construction situation has the laminate fully bonded to the surface of both sides. In the same way that a honeycomb cored laminate is only bonded to the surface. Filling the honeycomb voids with resin is obviously not the way to build a light wt strong structure. As a pro in the fiberglass business judging the right amount of resin is a skill it takes a while to get right . Excess is an ok solution for occasional repair work. Cheers Warren

[@deanvanjones]

That was a fantastic demonstration matey! Absolutely outstanding and exactly what I needed to see before my first attempt at fiberglassing:) I have been a bit concerned but now I know I'm going to smash it right now lol.!

[@guyyates3284]

Thanks for the info and lessons .....great info for my up and coming project ....keep up the good info ......

[@Viper_Poker]

I believe the word that you were looking for is diligence. .... Methodical diligence is they key to a successful layup when one is working with polyester resin.

[@royantony9944]

Thank you sir. Last month i am facing too much (non pre coat) problems.

[@franktetrojr]

Thank you for sharing your techniques. With out your advice I would have never been able to pull of a repair I’m doing on a 72 corvette. Thank you sir

[@SurvivalHunterNM]

Excellent! I'm a beginner at this and I love these tips. Excellent job.

[@TechyBen]

40 degree weather in the UK. Some of my original fiberglass "fixes" just melted lol. I had not sanded off all the paint off the hull for the bits of wood I glued to it. Thankfully it was mainly stuff not needed once I stripped out the boat. But yeah, the heat is making a difference. Thanks for your videos! My later effort is holding together, now I've watched your videos!

[@matthewkurapka1426]

The content on this channel is awe inspiring!! Can't thank u enough!!

[@chuckscheaffer3952]

Nice to finally see some instructional videos. Super helpful and glad to learn more. Thanks.

[@mymobile5014]

Your channel is my go to now, thanks for sharing so much valuable info with us

[@billrogers6863]

I went to the school of learn-by-mistake. What you show makes so much sense after I did a bunch of stuff wrong. Fortunately, no one died. And my subsequent efforts actually benefitted from my rookie errors. BTW - why (when) would one choose polyester resin instead of epoxy?

[@tigerseye73]

Thank you Andy. I needed that info for my up coming hot rod project.

[@donmoroz5502]

I liked this video a lot! Any significant differences to be aware of when doing this with epoxy instead of polyester?

[@robertbridges4570]

Guestion: I have a mold for fenders,for a tear drop trailer. The first layer with 1308,should the Mat side be applied first to the mold ,using white gel coat? Loving the videos, I made my molds from watching you and the demonstrations,does and don'ts. Keep them coming, Thank you for sharing Bbridges

[@robertchilders8698]

Mat side down first! With all my experience, I've never heard of epoxy gel coat!? Was told to never lay epoxy on top polyester based materials! Please update me!

[@robertchilders8698]

Mat side down first! With all my experience, I've never heard of epoxy gel coat!? Was told to never lay epoxy on top polyester based materials! Please update me!

[@andrewhares8089]

Love the tutorial. Have you or any of your subscribers ever attempted to make a plywood shower cubicle and completely covered the walls and floor with layers of fibreglass? Is that even possible. I’m looking at doing it for a RV, but the boat videos are more informative.. Thanks Andy

[@boattothefuture]

Andy, great demo and explanation. Could you do a tutorial about peel ply, what is is and how to use it on your project?

[@TigRdk]

You can find videos of peelply in use at SailLife 's older library :)

[@robertchilders8698]

Peel ply is seldom used, as it requires much more work! If you do your work right the first time! It does give a nice surface, but it will leave a somewhat small texture!

[@2greeksandacamera]

Excellent demonstration!!

[@kuzz7919]

Thanks Andy for the tips on rolling out to much resin.

[@robertschulke1596]

What effect would having a layer of peel ply over the samples, would it let you drive out more resin, get a denser layup, and still exclude air?

[@scottleonard9774]

So much wonderful information! I want to do a camper. Any advice or videos on how to do a large area? What about seams? Thank you

[@oldgeeser]

excellent video canoe to repair, now I have a basic understanding as to how. thank you , new subscriber now.

[@andyking1171]

as always very informative and very educational, love the way you describe how to and the why, hooked from start to finish thank you!! keep them coming looking forward to the next one .

[@benokisklaffer1384]

Thanks, I found it very useful. You certainly teach from experience. Although you didn't mention the spiked cylinder, which you can use to ventilate air pockets, or the use of a vacuum. I have two questions: 1. Do you think the maximum how many number of layers can be glued together at the same time? 2. Older literature recommends a layer of unidirectional fabric followed by a layer of glass quilt. Is this theory correct or is it outdated?

[@spitfire27028]

i notice you use the 1708 with strand side down, kinda makes sense to me. when putting new flooring in boats i use a few layers of 1.5 or 2oz. chop strand matt on the seams and follow up with a complete layer of woven roving. would i benefit using just 1708 bi-axial ?

[@spitfire27028]

2 thumbs up? means yes? I never used 1708

[@robertchilders8698]

Using bi-axal fiberglass with chopped strand backing is the best, much better than woven roving¡ Ss

[@AndyDeiu]

The tutorial is great I like it and I feel that is the best on how to start with fiberglass. Thanks !

[@bigduphusaj162]

For me Andy your vids and your info on forums is the best of any KZbinr and absolutely I would have you working on my own boats and I don't trust many people. Anyway, I don't think its fair to brush apply whatever mix you are using then instantly lay the cloth, I feel every type of epoxy needs a minimum of 3-5min (temp or UV dependant) on the surface so it can utilise its initial flow out and chemical characteristics before you lay anything on top. Then even layering up I would expect the first layer to be given a soak out and allow that bottom end to be an actual foundation before I even decided what I was applying next. See doing it like you did it will rarely work if your mixing strands, like say a biaxial then a chop strand on top followed by a lighter finish cloth. I can mess a job up that I know will usually work out fine when I'm combining different grade cloths just by not letting the flow out of each pour actually do its job. I know you are honest so I'm not questioning your integrity just I think you would need to follow the exact procedure for each of them to actually judge the final product. I'm back on 105 and UK powder bound chop strand when I need the El choppo finish. Not even going back to poly or vinyl ever again after using UK powder bound chop, no shrinkage and brutal levels of bond and maybe 20% strength over normal chop and poly/vinyl. Have you tried UK powder bound chop strand mate? Can send you a bunch of fresh trial stuff if not. The ones I prefer are the 300 and 450gm over the 600gm powder bound, they are a different magnitude as far as 'staying where your laying' works ridiculously good with a fin roller or paddle roller either will do and only needs a few strikes, the angles stitched in quick as you like with a wheel roller and the thing won't move. If you've never used UK powder bound chop with 105 you need to try it Andy as a matter of urgency. I promise you will be like "ohh my I need this in my life"

[@michaelgreene2920]

Can you buy this in the states?.....

[@N1gel]

I am wondering about fibreglass roofing. Thats easy. The question is what is the best material, weave, mat, resin, additive or technique etc. To make the pannel transparent (wishful thinking). Translucent (hopefully). Opaque (easy). I would like to build a strong big roof and have it let as much sunlight through as possible. I dont know if cooling vs heating vs resin to hardener ratios vs resin types etc. Any ideas to build a copy of a glass window in fibreglass mat? Thanks. Clicked thumb up & subscribed.

[@LaOwlett]

What do you think about waiting for the first coat to become tacky before laying the cloth and then more epoxy once the cloth is stuck and pressed into the shape you want? Granted this isn't for 5 layers of heavy cloth, but I was watching some people doing carbon fiber overlays for vehicles and that's how they got their twill to conform to shapes without folds. I agree there are a lot of people doing it wrong. I'm just trying to learn all I can, and the carbon fiber application process made me reconsider even the GOOD fiberglassing tutorials I've been watching. Hmmm. Thank you!

[@michaelmcilrath9466]

Thanks man! Might be obvious to you butIm learning a whole lot!!!

[@robinjohnston3516]

Hi Andy, Another great informative video - thanks. Could you do one with "tips and tricks" for laying up fiberglass overhead, e.g. repairs to the inside of a cabin. Thanks

[@Torin3636]

Was just hoping for the same thing. I've gone after some rotten core from the underside and need to get fresh core up and in and then new glass laid out.

[@ripemm5737]

Nothing worse then a tutorial where you can’t get a question answered

[@UnderGround3491]

I'm adding some buoyancy to my tunnel hull pontoon to get it to float a little higher. I've glued the same type of foam that is in good Life Jackets or throw rings. I then glued a 3/16" fiberglass panel over the foam. The foam area is 40" x 10' by 4.5" thick. All was glued with 3m 5200. I did put aluminum angle on the 10' length and fastened it through the hull with well nuts being generous with the 3m 5200 around the well nuts and screws. I'm not real concerned if water should get in there as long as it doesn't enter the existing hull. I fiberglassing both the tapered front area and rear 90° area. My question is do I need to remove all the gelcoat from the hull to get a good bond of resin and mat or just a good scuff with 80 grit. Sandpaper. I did remove all wax before sanding.

[@garethcollocott6310]

Thank you, this was unbelievably helpful! Much appreciated!

[@vannigiovannigio8861]

I think you are taking your time on the first comparison prewetted layup.

[@harveyrhodes8934]

Great video - Well explained with good hands on examples - thank you

[@GreystonesRowella]

Hi Andy. Great video! Would you have any tips on how to achieve a fibreglass repair on fixed a vertical surface that cannot be rotated horizontally? I assume gravity is a real problem!

[@rodrigosenra2693]

A lot of great learning on this video. Thanks for sharing with us!

[@ebachy]

Would you do a nice heavy coat of resin first when laminating glass on a metal surface? Obviously, it won't soak into the metal. Thanks for the demo!

[@cafriedrichsen]

you can use a kitchen scale to measure the pressure when using fin rollers

[@mhansl]

Literally just made a core repair in Inconceivable. The balsa was really really thirst. Mixed 16 oz thinking I would have extra…. Was almost scrapping the cup by the end.

[@dennisseeker36]

first time with you.. i will look for all your veds on this.. likded, subed.. thank you so much for sharing and teaching, getting old ut still want to build a little boat, retired in the philippines, need to go fishing -lol

[@BrockoM]

You do such a great job of explaining! I do have a few questions... I am redoing a houseboat deck and before I saw your videos I did some of the repair with only one layer of cloth. Can I still go back and add layers of cloth over top or do all of the layers have to be done in one session? How many layers of cloth should I be doing on the deck? And finally where can I buy one of those rollers? Keep up the great work! I'll be watching lots of your videos!

[@robertchilders8698]

Good questions! Some polyester resins contain wax. So it can be sanded easier.. you should not layup on cured wax resin. Okay oñ unwaxed resin ! Same kind of wax as in candles. Before finned rollers become available, we made our own, using washers on paint rollers! If boughten, I prefer "barrel rollers" laying up as fast as you can because of the cure times! Gives you more time to go back on "touch" details. It is extremely difficult working out of doors on wood. Epoxy is better , but it's a different ball game!

[@jeremysmith7888]

I am currently trying to learn how to work with fiberglass and create custom products but I'm noticing there are lots of different products different fiberglass types and mats and resins a video showing as many different types of material and explaining the proper situation for each different type would be great thank you 24:25

[@liquiddreamification]

Nice work with the light reflection to the camera lense.

[@driftlessheights6177]

Hi Andy, I could use some advice. Engineering problem. Next summer I have a reservation for a new Silverado EV. Great truck for people, 400 mile range, but a payload only around 1200 lbs. With a truck cap at 150 lbs. and assuming 2 adults (2x200 = 400lbs.) that leaves 650 lbs. for truck camping equipment and interior. Most people finish truck campers with heavy plywood for bed, cupboards etc. Not an option here. So since I grew up in the E.A.A. I have seen composite aircraft made very light. E.G. For the bed I am thinking of something like a rectangular surf board. So it needs to carry my weight. Now the needed advice: To be lightest and strongest. - Foam, Honeycomb or Balsa? How thick should the material be? Fiberglass or Carbon Fiber? Should I use honeycomb for a good insulated floor? Would like to cross the US for under $500 not including food. I appreciate your advice. Tom

[@richcherwalk6349]

A lot of people build these with 2inch xps foam glued with foam fusion a layer of fiberglass outside, epoxy resin and they'll epoxy luan board on inside of foam. They also fiberglass the corners of luan board. Many videos of camper trailers built this way. Also look up poor man's fiberglass, a lot of these techniques come from small airplane designers.

[@mikeemmons1079]

I am about to start a project based on youtuber stuff. You have just confirmed that my version is going to be more effective. More; you have shown me HOW to make mine better.

[@triggeral]

You're Awesome!! Thank you for sharing and taking your time sharing your knowledge and demonstrating it.

[@hogroamer260]

Andy, maybe you have one in the shop but, they make fairly cheap digital scales (about 4" x 4") with adjustable units (grams, ounces etc). You could use one of those to measure the pressure you are using on the roller. You could even bring your roller to a post office and use their scale at the self-help postage machine. Just a suggestion, I've heard you trying to quantify the pressure in several videos.

[@tartansailor]

Your videos are always informative and helpful, thank you

[@rickeyholtsclaw7764]

Thank you...beginner...your assistance is greatly appreciated!!!

[@brucecann1591]

I just found your channel. Great job. I have never glassed but plan to in the near future.

[@davidfalconer1639]

Great vid and good info .Quick question what's the cheapest cleaner for my brushes and rollers..

[@michalpompo5349]

Great movie, especially for people without experiences with resin. :)

[@JacobKnightRiderShop]

I used to use A ROLLER really hard for the bubbles. Always had parts with bubbles in them after I pop them. I have learned to be more gentle on the roller with better results. What kind of mask do you use when using poly resins?

[@daniels.ikigai]

amazing class... subscribed... great work

[@davidperanich6006]

I've just joined in on your vedios but it would be great for you to infom folks on how many drops of hardener you use when you are mixing up your resin each time. Thanks.

[@alwoolhouse6255]

Nice. Thanks, very helpful and timely for a project coming up!

[@davidvanderoord6943]

Amazing work andy you are an inspiration to us all😊

[@riah4739]

Andy I know another mistake is not adding enough hardener especially vertical it looks good after rolling but if you check on it later resin runs and you see air pockets

[@robertchilders8698]

If you're a beginner, don't add extra hardener, as you will be working slower! However if you have more experience, and can work faster , go for it! The quicker it's layed up , the better! When working at Ryan Aeronautical, "The Spirit of St Louis" we used multiple catalyst, àñ ultra violent catalyst for the "gell" and another for a heat cure made the most beautiful layups-everr! When a layup takes to long you will get a lot of runoff and suck in a lot of air!

[@southerneruk]

I will be building a 78-foot boat, Carbon fibre is one choice to make it out of, the other is Aluminium or stainless steel, I have not done any fibre glassing in the last 30 plus years, forgotten a lot of info. Thinking of using a slow setting resin, something like 12 hours to set and 24 hours to cure, will need to relearn about the colour gel coat, form work and none stick coating, I will take around 6 mth just to do the hull and maybe the decks and strengthens and bulk heads ECT, then the rest take up to 2 years to complete