2001 - 2005 Honda Civic Acura EL Timing Belt Replacement

A comprehensive video detailing on how to replace the timing belt on a 7th generation Honda Civic or 2nd generations Acura 1.7EL. The model years covered are 2001-2005 and apply to ALL versions of Honda's 1.7 liter (D17 family) inline 4 cylinder engine. Procedure applies to both the VTEC or non-VTEC engines and the body style (sedan or coupe) do not change the repair procedure.

[@HH-gn9qt]

I have watched about a half dozen of these videos regarding the timing belt for this engine and this one is the most complete and informative. I can only imagine how much more time consuming it is to video as you are doing the job. I will be tackling this job in a couple weekends. Thank you.

[@HomesteadDIY]

I could watch your car repair videos all day. The camera work is so clear and the explanations are concise making the whole process incredibly accessible (dangerously so!). I feel like I want to go out to my garage and start working on my vehicle! For me, this video in particular, though, at least shows why a mechanic (or dealership) charges so much to change a timing belt. There's a lot of work involved in doing so and it makes me comfortable paying a professional to do this job. Thanks for another great, informative video.

[@piercedasian]

Lol, fixing cars isn't so bad. Yes it does take time but in the end what you gain from every car you fix is experience. Even though I've probably done 100's of t-belt jobs I still methodically walk through my "workflow" process to ensure I don't slip up somewhere. Interestingly 21 years ago I did my first oil change on a car and that took me forever because I was afraid of screwing up. FFWD to today and a lot of things I do is 2nd nature to me :) If you don't try you won't ever know what you're capable of doing.

[@HH-gn9qt]

@@piercedasian Yep. Even as a shade tree mechanic, I concur with your comment. Each job (and mistake) gains you experience. I would never try this ordinarily, but I did a valve adjustment on my Ridgeline a few months ago. Getting that done has given me the confidence to tackle the timing belt on my brother's Civic. Thank you for the great video!

[@damienjones9629]

So let me start by saying I've watched close to 100 hours of videos to prep for my head gasket job for my 2004 Honda Civic. Most of the detailed videos that show the removal a d replacement of the timing belt do not show this much attention to detail as well as the full installation process. This is by far the best how to for timing belt replacement due to how well you explain everything and all your little tips and tidbits you add along the way! Kudos to you my friend! This is the sole video I've found thar covers everything for this job and also done the proper way! Thank you so much for this!

[@piercedasian]

yes many KZbin videos don't really explain things properly such that a newbie watches it that they don't really get the full or proper context on how the job should be done. Thanks for watching and hopefully your head gasket job went well!

[@ryanincontrol]

The best guide for timing belt replacement on YT. Thank you for your video.

[@piercedasian]

thanks! That means a lot to me!

[@jimdandy6472]

Great video, with lots of detailed step by step clips and a lot of good tips. Good editing to speed up some of the boring bolt tightening steps, and no shaky camera work. Thanks for taking the time to create and upload.

[@piercedasian]

+Jim Dandy glad you liked my vid! Documenting the details and editing them definitely was a very time consuming job BUT the great thing is that you found it effective and useful which is my intent :) Thanks for watching!

[@naturebuoys]

Thank you! Followed along with each step and it worked great for my vehicle with 460,000KM on it. Thanks for giving it a new lease on life.

[@piercedasian]

460,000kms! Well done! You'll have to beat my record of 520,000kms (I sold the car after that). My friend's 99 Accord was at 720, 000kms on the original almost everything (sans struts, brake pads, fluids, and 2 alternators) before he gave his car away to a relative. Last time I checked his car was still on the road breaking over 750,000kms...

[@samuelchristopher4506]

The best video out there that explain how to align tdc without taking out the cover Thank you so much!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you found it useful!

[@mpfjaxmpfjax3046]

Got an crazy one for you. After watching this and doing my son's timing belt over a year ago, I noticed a continuous oil leak. I used a Honda OEM valve cover gasket when I did the timing belt. Couple months ago I found it was still leaking from the valve cover. After pulling it off and looking at it, I realized that it was warped. Purchased a used valve cover from ebay. New gasket and tube seals. He has driven for a while and no leaks!

[@piercedasian]

that's crazy! I've never heard of a warped valve cover before so this is news to me. Glad you got it figured out though.

[@ralphholland3031]

Great video. I was originally using a manual and it was pretty vague. This video filled in a lot of gaps the book left out.

[@piercedasian]

so glad you found my video useful!

[@markearle7610]

Awesome video, very detailed and easy to follow. Thank-you for taking the time to create such a detailed video as well as adding service tips along the way.

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful!

[@damienjones9629]

I 2nd this! One of the only videos I've found that actually covers the re-installation of everything!

[@DanielTrejo-he5xthfhfh]

🎉Hi Mr. first 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😂of all let me start by saying thank the Earth I came across your video and let me tell you for sure and my own exoerience I watched I don't know how many alike videos but not even close to the time, passion ,dedication & effort that it clearlly looks you put into making this very very very well done video and really profecionally made thank you on bahalf of myself and I know every person who wants to learn new things and also those who don't have the $$ to pay for this type of jobs however they are getting things done no matter what it takes and I am one of those who doesn't ave the money and like learning new things all the time so I am having probles with my Honda civic water pump and I've been watching videos to prepare my self to do this same job to my civic so now I feel that with your video I can do it for sure just answered my question that I had what it was worring me the most and thanks to you and by watching you're video I have no more question ms and now feel confident that I can do this job myself so onece again thank Sr. Really apprecciate your video it's not perfect but really close to it. Thanks have a great day. ✌️

[@JacobJoseph1992]

This is an amazing video I wish there were more people that would share knowledge as often and as well as you did here. Subscribed.

[@piercedasian]

glad you like my vids. It takes a lot of effort to make my videos BUT quality is important to me as it should be for everyone else :)

[@nazarioantipala2920]

Your the best and most knowledgeable person or mechanic your video's and details are very clear .Tnks for sharing to everyone .May God JESUS CHRIST blessing you and your family's

[@itguy108]

Very good replacement tutorial. Clear video and detail.

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!

[@BillyOnGXR]

Awesome video very detailed at everything and made it super easy to do the job. Thanks man.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video!

[@woolaklee5905]

Thanks for loading up the video. It's great and excellent video. Your videos really help to maintain my car. My car is 2002 EL 1.7.

[@piercedasian]

glad you like the video. It took forever to make this one and oddly my much more complex Honda Odyssey timing belt video wasn't even as long! Thanks for watching!

[@ValleywoodRider]

Great videos. Very clear and the service tips are invaluable. I have used your videos to change my tires, oil changes, alternator change and they also gave me the confidence to fix the A/C in our other vehicle. After the alternator change, I have one piece of metal and a 10mm bolt that is missing it's home. I had a vehicle dealership technician look at my work and he commented everything checked out ok including belt tension. Anyway to send you a picture of the piece? Thanks again!!!!!

[@jm1272jm]

Good job m8. I really like how methodical you are with your how-to videos. That genuine Honda crank pulley tool is real awesome. It's amazing how a lot of the work cringes on that crank pulley bolt being able to be removed. If it can't be removed or it's really seized on there, one would obviously need to stop because you won't be able to continue. I know some DIY'ers won't even attempt a TB swap unless that crank bolt can be broken loose first BEFORE starting job. Keep those videos coming bud and thanks for sharing. Hope your vision is better now too!

[@piercedasian]

thanks jm1271jm my vision is gradually getting better and I certainly am in much better shape now that I was at the beginning of January. Yeah that crank pulley is deathly tight from the factory. I have no idea how Honda can say 175 ft-lbs when in reality it feels more along the lines of 250 ft lbs or more... Since I have the Honda crank tool I don't worry about whether or not I can break that pesky bolt loose - I know I can b/c of that handy tool :) Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more of my DIY vids.

[@rimonramis8813]

awesome video.very detailed ,so informative. thanks for uploading

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@noway1054]

hello I really enjoy your very detailed youtube clips your detailed processes are GREAT! I hope only the best for you and your family. Thank you my man! your awesome.

[@piercedasian]

+yoyo rocks Glad you like my videos! Consider subscribing to get the latest in DIY car repair :)

[@noway1054]

I already did subscribe and I watched your eye surgery clips. You are a very detailed person. the information you provide is great.

[@piercedasian]

+yoyo rocks glad you liked my vids. Hopefully I can continue making new vids to keep all my subscribers happy :)

[@franklinavilez2386]

Awesome video thanks for posting it! Took me 10 hrs lol but I got the water pump and timing belt changed 😀

[@piercedasian]

Nice work!

[@chineduokabechinedu9126]

I call you Master, in fact you are legit in your profession. This is the best guide for Timing belt replacement, very informative and crystal clear video. Thank so much for uploading the video. I have little question Master: what is the name or brand model of the camera or video machine you used in this video clip? Reply.

[@piercedasian]

Master?? I'm just a jack of all trades but master of nothing. I'm glad you liked my video. It takes a tremendous amount of effort to produce something this detailed (with no help no less!). The cameras I use are a combination of a Sony Handycamcorder, a GoPro Hero 7 Black and a Canon 5D MKIII.

[@chineduokabechinedu9126]

@@piercedasian Am glad you replied my comments and questions, meanwhile with that your video have empowered thousands of people across the globe. I appreciate you my dear.

[@chineduokabechinedu9126]

@@piercedasian In addition to my comments today, regarding your reply to my comments before YES you are MASTER of Masters in this profession. This really an empowerment drive. Keep it up, my MASTER.

[@davidhammett1323]

You are an awesome teacher. I enjoyed this video very much.

[@piercedasian]

glad you like my vid!

[@kesu90]

Fantastic video my friend! Keep up the great work! I have a 2001 civic like this one and work on it often. Will bug you sometimes if I get stuck :)

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. Definitely don't hesitate to reach out for help with practically anything!

[@Extinction.of.Innocense]

Thanks for giving me the confidence. I feel as though I owe you some money.

[@piercedasian]

you're very welcome. I do take donations via PayPal and the funds received are used to fund the creation of future videos. I should probably setup a patreon link but PayPal has worked. If you do send a donation it can be sent to [e-mail]. Thanks in advance for your consideration!

[@mh-xu7ld]

Nice video with very useful details.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it!

[@lequang2296]

Great clip Crystal clear. Thank you

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome. Thanks for watching.

[@TheSkysteve]

very good complete video, thanks

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it!

[@111111111Tiger]

to me, SOP to change out the water pump while doing the timing belt. Good video.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the vid.

[@nickolastiguan]

you are back! thumbs up!

[@piercedasian]

I'm glad to be back. Seeing properly is still kind of a challenge but at least I can edit some of my videos now :)

[@rajarashid7635]

your video is very comprehensive and detailed .please can you upload the nissan versa how to replace cultch mater cylinder and also nissan versa timing belt replacement.

[@piercedasian]

+raja rashid glad you like my videos. Unfortunately I do not have a versa to work on otherwise I totally would!

[@rajarashid7635]

You can make video on nissan sentra

[@piercedasian]

I can only make vids of cars that make their way into my garage. So far no sentras to be seen :( Sorry.

[@everetteallen3156]

Great video! Thank you for sharing.

[@piercedasian]

Thanks for watching!

[@brians1812]

best step by step video, thank you!!

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful!

[@DanielField2023]

4 years later we did a timing belt and water pump replacement hardware cost at the dealer $533 but online a part for Auto all HONDA setup cost $163 we have now 35K Timing belt and water pump $1450 plus labor $962 Party $533. I can't do it by myself I do have the honda tool for the Timing bolt.

[@francisScrnName]

Thanks man, this video is so informative. Liked & subscribed!

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the vid and thanks for subscribing!

[@timvillers]

Hey there great video, just wish I'd watched it before I installed a new water pump on my 2001 acura el 1.7. I was sure the crank didn't turn when I reinstalled the belt never checked the crank position. Put it all back together and it wouldn't start. Turned over easy. So now I have it apart again. Here's the problem. Cam shaft marks are good showing TDC. When I pulled the crank pulley off, I notice the key way was at a 45 instead of straight up like yours is in your video. I turned the crank until the key way position matched your position and put the cover and pulley back on to check the alignment mark on the pulley to make sure it was in the center of the v groove. It was out by at least 1/2". So I then checked the crank gear mark with the arrow on the block and its almost bang on. How can that be. Which alignment should I set the crank gear and or pully to?. Thanks

[@piercedasian]

okay, so here is a fool proof way to tell if the crank is at TDC. If you look at the cogged gear that drives the t-belt there will be very clear dot on the side of the crank belt cog. That dot is supposed to line up with a very large triangle on the engine block/oil pump body (remember the oil pump sits directly behind the main crankshaft). That dot should line up with the pointy end of that triangle. Make sure the woodruff key is in, reinstall the lower timing cover and BEFORE you reinstall the crankshaft pulley look at the timing marks. There should be in fact 4 notches on the pulley. A set of 3 notches will be closely clustered together. That is your 14/16/18 degree marks. If you look further away from those marks you will see a lone notch. THAT is TDC. If visibility is an issue then paint that LONE timing mark with some white paint (factory paint is actually red for TDC mark). Once the pulley's TDC mark is clearly visible, reinstall the pulley and that color mark (remember it is the LONE notch on the pulley) should line up the the plastic pointer on the lower timing cover (as viewed from between the "V". Make sure you're looking at the proper angle down the "V". I'll bet your crank will be lined up perfectly :) Hope that helps.

[@supersabrosinho]

superb tutorial. thank you!

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

[@tmph1814]

Great video for timing belt replacement but was surprise the water pump wasn't replacement when this timing belt was done...🤷🏻

[@musabusman9420]

Awesome teacher 👍👏👏

[@piercedasian]

thank you :)

[@tcl98387]

I like the effort you go to to not drop any debris in the engine, but when you lift the valve cover off at @18:37, you tip it upside and it all falls into the engine!

[@piercedasian]

yeah, I'm not perfect. I try my best to keep things clean and tidy but like all things in life "sh*t happens". Thankfully there wasn't any major bits of dirt that fell into the engine.

[@trevormorgan7138]

148lb-ft for the crank bolt. TSB correction to the service manual. Other then that looking good. Nice refreshener. :)

[@piercedasian]

Good to know the updated spec! Thanks for watching.

[@alejandrocook5939]

This is a very good video. Thanks for sharing your acknowledge in Sachs a good quality. Some questions: 1- Is it good idea remplace Belt tensioner and water pump at same time than belt (100k km)or they can live double (200k)¿ 2- i do not follow you on The issue with the puley holder tool. You moved CCW, what happen if needed to move clockwise to get the tool seat properly¿ should in this case make a whole turn CCW and stop a Little bit before to avoid go CW¿

[@piercedasian]

On engines that turn CCW you should only turn CCW when the tbelt is on b/c that is the direction the motor operates. If you turn it opposite direction then what happens is that you untension the tbelt in a manner that is not how the engine runs and thus can bugger things up. I would do the water pump and tbelt ever 100K and the tensioner pulley every 300K.

[@piercedasian]

BTW if you move it CW just a bit to get the tool to seat that is OK. I misread your post and thought you were rotating the motor CW. My bad for replying too quickly before re-reading what you wrote.

[@MR-TR3B]

REALLY GOOD VIDEO THANKS

[@piercedasian]

you're welcome!

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

Pierce - Liked, subscribed and rang that bell! See my comment in the Community section of this YT channel. FWIW, I’ve been watching automotive videos for over 18 months on dozens of different channels and this is only the 2nd to which I’ve actually subscribed. Keep up the great work, dude! :)

[@piercedasian]

that is great news! Thanks for subscribing and liking the video!

[@toyotoe3732]

Excellent video. Thank you. When the timing belt is replaced shouldn't you also replace the Water Pump and Timing Belt Tensioner Pullley?

[@piercedasian]

It depends how well the car was maintained and how much mileage you've racked up. This particular car had only 90, 000kms on it and historically I have found that as long as you've only used Honda coolant and never introduced other brands of coolant and no water with minerals in it that you can quite easily get 200, 000kms out of the original Honda water pumps. Tensioner pulleys last well over 300, 000kms and according to the local Honda dealerships here they almost NEVER replace the tensioner pulley. A few of my Honda dealership mechanic buddies of mine confirmed this as well as they said that bearing seems to last an eternity. So unless you're not maintaining the coolant in your car every 80, 000kms with genuine Honda coolant or you have really high miles on the original pump chances are you'll be able to make it by without changing out any additional parts. I've followed the change the water pump ever other t-belt change rule for the last 20 years and so far so good :)

[@Greg4g63]

Definitely replace them! Unless they had been replaced very recently then absolutely buy a quality timing belt kit from Gates which comes with watepump + tensioner all for $70-80 shipped!

[@dannysautorepair]

Great video

[@piercedasian]

Thanks!

[@garzeno3573]

Wow very good video sir

[@piercedasian]

thanks!

[@christinme2001]

great video, thank you.

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video!

[@johnstuckey2384]

Just video, but I notice the belt tensioner not set correctly, see other video's for proper installations.

[@piercedasian]

Trust me it is set correctly. I worked at Honda dealership and this is how we did it. Not a single comeback.

[@yeolblt]

Thanks very much for your clear and informative video. I hope you don't mind my asking for your advice. I have a Honda headrest that's stuck in its highest position, but cannot be moved/lowered at all. The release button moves but does not release the headrest (unlike the rest that work smoothly). What should I do?

[@piercedasian]

You likely have a jammed release mechanism. Have you tried getting a helping hand to wiggle the headrest up and down while you're pressing the button to free it? Sometimes the headrest rod can jam the release mechanism making it seem like it doesn't want to release. Jiggle the headrest around and see if it comes loose.

[@yeolblt]

@@piercedasian Thanks for your advice. I'll try it ☺️

[@HH-gn9qt]

Is there any reason I cannot break the crank bolt loose first, before disassembling everything? It seems like I could break it loose then tighten it up again to turn the motor. Obviously, if I can't get the crank bolt loose it's a deal breaker on the timing belt replacement. Thank you for the great video.

[@piercedasian]

you can definitely crack the bolt loose as step 1 but I like to get the motor to TDC first (or darned close to it) because with a loosened crank bolt that I can use my ratchet to turn the crank without the bolt loosening off.

[@HH-gn9qt]

@@piercedasian I broke the bolt loose as step 1. That thing was on tight. I put all my weight on it with a jack handle over my breaker bar. I fell over when the bolt cracked. The breaker bar was definitely bending under the load and seemed to be close to its limit. I actually thought it broke when the bolt let go. One thing that I learned from another video was using a jack stand outside the wheel well to rest the end of the breaker bar and use it as a pivot point. It actually worked fantastic. After you get the bolt cracked, you can also change the breaker bar to a ratchet and leave the setup for spinning the crank.

[@mikecarter1454]

Do you have to move the Alternator, i want to install a new one. Should I expect most shops do it that way ? Would Make sense for me to do the Waterpump at the same time right ?

[@piercedasian]

Yes the alternator must come out of the car to get the timing belt out. The water pump should be replaced with the timing belt.

[@purpledonatello]

Hey pierce very detail tutorial love it. Got a question about the stud coming off the motor? Is it okay to put anti seize on the stud or will it change the torque specs when torquing down with the bolt. I appreciate the tip on using the nut to reinstall the stud. Thank you

[@piercedasian]

anti seize will absolutely change the torque spec requirements but why how much I am unsure of. I would say that if you lubricate the stud that you need to drop the torque spec by at least 10%. Mind you that many of the fasteners on the car are relatively small so it doesn't take much to snap fasteners especially when they're tiny like they are on most japanese cars.

[@danewyawka3846]

Excellent 7th gen SOHC Civic timing belt video. By far the best for beginners like myself. I ran into an issue when after I have the cam and crank at TDC and I proceed to put the belt on, when I tighten the new OEM tensioner, it will cause the crank to move slightly off TDC. I tried for about 3 hours today. Any ideas on how to keep the crank from moving off the TDC mark on the oil pump? Thank you!

[@piercedasian]

+Da New Yawka hmm, nothing should move if everything is lined up perfectly. Remember to follow the belt routing procedure in my video. You route the belt from camshaft gear to crankshaft (with absolutely no slack) and then route up over tensioner, under water pump and then back up towards the camshaft timing gear. When you push on the front of the belt lightly with your finger it should be taught with all the extra slack behind the cam timing gear and water pump. when you let the tensioner tension up the belt all should be good. Confirm by temporarily re-installing crank pulley and give the motor a few rotations counterclockwise and if all is good then your timing marks should line right up. If you're off by just a tiny hair chances are you're actually right b/c if you were off by even 1 tooth on the cam sprocket that you'd easily see that you were off. Are you sure your cam gear is lined up perfectly using a ruler to the deck of the head as how I demonstrated?

[@danewyawka3846]

I forgot to mention either my crank or cam was off slightly the first time I took it apart ( might have been the cam). Car started and stalled immediately. I'm using a plastic ruler which isn't as thin as your metal ruler. Hope I didn't bend the valves

[@danewyawka3846]

I could email u a quick iPhone video of my cam mark. I know the crankshaft mark. U might be right, maybe I have it off slightly.

[@piercedasian]

sure you can email it to [e-mail]

[@bclaus1022]

Awesome video, thank you! One question, I have manual transmission, should it be in neutral during this process of aligning timing belt?

[@piercedasian]

+Bryan Clauson well if the car is in gear then you turning the engine over by hand will be really tough. Put it in neutral.

[@josemalinao1308]

I'm guessing you're a honda tech. I just have a question. I did my t-belt along with my oil pump (replacing the whole oil pump). Upon start up an allen key plug on the oil pump assembly facing towards the back of the car started leaking oil. I just wanted to ask you if you have ever encountered this? But I took out that same allen key plug and honda bonded it and it hasn't leaked since.

[@piercedasian]

Honda tech? Sort of I guess :). I did work at a Honda dealership as a service mechanic so I know my way around them quite well. I have never taken the Allen key plug out of the oil pump BUT I have experienced an oil leak that is VERY similar to what you described and it was a result of the o-ring BEHIND the oil pump but since you replaced the oil pump I'm assuming you had a new o-ring installed on the back of the new pump. Often leaks that LOOK like they're leaking from the oil pump's rear end is a result of a faulty oring seal and/or missing hondabond sealant on the mating surfaces where the oil pump meets the engine block around the oil pan seal area.

[@josemalinao1308]

@@piercedasian Thats what I thought. So i shut off the car degreased the area and restarted the car to reinspect. When I did so I noticed that the oil was leaking directly from where the allen bolt/plug threads into. So I took a gamble and took out the plug and Honda bonded the threads and it hasn't leaked since. I looked all over Google to see if someone has encountered a similar problem and didn't find anything. As for the O-ring: a new one came with the oil pump so I ruled that out. I also rechecked the mating surface and didn't see anything. Faulty part? Could be. Also tried finding reviews on the part which is branded as Ultrapower and only found that Ultrapower is a company that outsources parts.

[@OHMYJOSHH]

What if I accidentally turn the bolt clockwise trying to tighten it 😬, can I just do 2 or 3 rotations counterclockwise to correct that?

[@piercedasian]

I'm not sure what you mean by that. You're supposed to turn the bolts clockwise to tighten them up. If you're referring to rotating the engine to get to TDC then yes you really should only be turning the motor in the proper direction to line things up. In this specific video the motor rotates counterclockwise so when you're turning the crankshaft to verify the belt is installed properly that it should be turned counterclockwise.

[@OHMYJOSHH]

@@piercedasian I meant to say that when you are tightening the crankshaft bolt clockwise it is possible that the engine will turn clockwise as well even with the help of the special crankshaft tool if you are not careful right? So if that does happen how bad is it, and should I just realign it by turning a few rotations counterclockwise once i have completely tightened the bolt? thank you for your time and your previous response, this video helped me out a lot 🙏🏼

[@piercedasian]

@@OHMYJOSHH ah okay I get. Yes not problem doing that. Just make sure that once everything is reinstalled that you do a final TDC check of all engine components PRIOR to starting it. Make sure you only turn it counterclockwise to ensure the belt is tracking properly on the pulley.

[@TheUnknownHarbingers]

Can you give a link to where you got the engine mount stud and/or part number?

[@piercedasian]

All the parts are available at your local acura/honda dealer which is where I purchase 99% of my parts from.

[@bestillandknow3939]

That's a very intense operation! How often do these belts need to be changed? What the average 2016 cost to have it changed to a certified tech? I presume it's advisable to change out your spark plugs and (possibly) the alternator in the same process?

[@piercedasian]

intense? No trust me that isn't nearly as bad as say chasing a clutch out with the engine in a car with bent subframe. THAT is murder to do. Yes plugs would be a good idea but not the alternator. That should only be changed when it fails.

[@TheUnknownHarbingers]

Why did you say you need an impact to tighten the bolt for the crankshaft pulley? You said because it's the same way you loosen a bolt. I didn't understand.

[@piercedasian]

It is ideal to use an impact wrench to tighten the crank bolt (but not hammer it on it for too long) temporarily b/c you will need to attach a socket to that very same bolt so you can rotate the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE to line up your timing belt marks. That is effectively "loosening the crank bolt". You use a impact gun to tighten the crank bolt just enough such that when you rotate the bolt in the CCW direction that the bolt just loosen on you. You could try to rotate the crank pulley itself when trying to line up timing marks but it is awkward and not precise. Hope that makes sense. Some folks that don't have impact tools will need to hand tighten that crank bolt tight enough using a crank pulley holder tool and ratchet and then use that very same tool to undo the crank bolt after timing has been verified and "locked" in via the tensioner adjuster.

[@DanielField2023]

My Honda Civic 2002 EX Vtech has only 19,000 miles do I need to change the timing belt after 18 years ? We Got a New Subaru Outback 2020 premium + package replaced the Honda Accord 2003 with 130,000 miles.

[@piercedasian]

wow that is crazy low miles but you absolutely need to change the coolant and the belt at the minimum before the belt breaks due to the rubber and kevlar in the belt breaking down. Water pump should be okay since it has barely run but you WILL need new coolant to restore the pH and lubricity of the coolant to protect the engine and water pump from corrosion damage. Would be awesome to see a 7th gen in minty condition still.

[@maxxman1234]

How were you getting no resistance while turning your engine? When I do that I can feel the compression of the cylinders.

[@piercedasian]

did you remove the spark plugs? I will sometimes remove the plugs out of the motor to make retiming the motor just a tad easier. If you removed the plugs and are getting resistance you could be bending your valves if the motor was really out of time.

[@andrewm.4168]

Great video, but I can't believe you went through all that trouble and skipped a new tensioner and water pump. Were they fairly new or something?

[@piercedasian]

I worked at Honda for a while and the techs there agreed that the water pumps in these cars if the coolant is in good condition will go 200, 000kms without any issues. The tensioner is RARELY replaced - usually every 300, 000 kms before they exhibit any signs of trouble.

[@andrewm.4168]

Here I am 2 years later, and the water pump I replaced is now leaking. Sounds like I should have done it your way. Lol. I did figure out you can pull top timing cover without removing valve cover. If you pull the two engine mount studs off alternator bracket, you can tilt timing cover out from bottom and down and it will clear the valve cover lip. Saves a ton if time on this job.

[@alexwest4487]

Hello, i am not sure if you will even see this comment but My timing belt had snapped on mine. So i replaced it and it wont start. It still sounds like it did when the belt snapped. Can the engine be blown or maybe is it out of time?

[@piercedasian]

Hi Alex and apologies for my untimely response. If you snapped the belt then there is a VERY high chance you bent the valves on the motor. The only way to get this running is to remove the cylinder head and have the valves replaced. It's a crappy thing to have happen and a very expensive fix. You might be better off getting a used engine put in and take the new timing belt parts you just installed on your dead engine and put them on the new motor so that you don't run into a t-belt failure with the replacement motor.

[@HH-gn9qt]

Why do you specify 175 ft lbs of torque on the crank bolt when the manual specifies 14.5 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. I only ask because you actually follow lubing the bolt per the manual (and I have not seen any other video cover that.)

[@piercedasian]

I do the tightening to 175 ft lb from just old habits and notes from old factory service manuals. I've just become so accustomed to using 175 ft lbs for the bolt that I've stuck with it for literally 20 years without any issue. If you actually pay attention to the bolt using the 90 degree turning method that it actually does roughly work out to about 175-190 ft lbs (buddy tried this experiment years ago) so rather than marking the bolt and then trying to get it to go 90 degree that I just opt to torque it to that spec. Simple and easy.

[@HH-gn9qt]

@@piercedasian Thanks for the reply. I too prefer to use a torque wrench. Now that I see the two methods are roughly equal I will use my torque wrench tomorrow when I complete the job (if there are no surprises of course). Glad to see either method works to about the same torque.

[@amunbinning8333]

Just finished and realised i never backed off my tensoner pully half a turn before attaching the spring so worried the tension is not correct. Any tips?

[@piercedasian]

You can actually do this even if things are all installed back on the motor. You will need to remove the valve cover and set the engine to tdc. On the timing cover there will be a small little rubber plug. Pop that off and you should be able to get a thin walled socket (14mm) into it and loosen it by half a turn and then retighten (don't ever overtighten the tensioner. I did that once and stripped the threads in the block - bitch to fix). Just refer back to this video to basically set the timing of the motor and then wherever I say to loosen half a turn and then retighten is where you do it. I just can't remember if it is move teeth forward 3 teeth and then loosen and retighten or just loosen half a turn and retighten at TDC. Its been so long ago....

[@amunbinning8333]

@@piercedasian thank you sm

[@amunbinning8333]

@@piercedasian i ended up just putting it back to together, it sounds alright just a very slight what i think is rubber smell not sure if its related.

[@CarsandCoding]

I recently bought a 2005 civic from original owner with 165,000 miles and he claims it never had the timing belt changed! So why change it? Have you ever actually seen a timing belt go bad? I have seen tensioners go bad or water pump, but the belt itself? This one still looks good. Sounds like a lot of people had no issues, then got a problem after the belt was changed incorrectly?

[@piercedasian]

As a matter of fact I have seen MANY belts broken. Having worked on literally 100's of Honda's and Toyota's that the belts when used past their service life will give out often with zero warning. I have seen deteriorated belts that are physically falling apart from cracking and I've seen mint condition new of package looking ones snap clean. So yes, you MUST replace them at the specified intervals otherwise you are playing Russian roulette with your motor. The ones that neglected the service intervals are always naturally the ones that write off their cars or spend big $$$ replacing engines or cylinder heads b/c their valves got all bent up. Been there done that far too many times for comfort.

[@CarsandCoding]

@@piercedasian Thank you for the reply! I will look into replacing the belt on mine. Great video!

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome. Good luck!

[@rickyboyz1006]

Is it ok to use blue chalk on the rear wheels?

[@piercedasian]

sure why not?

[@SaltyRice808]

Im sorry for asking this question but this is critical and i rather ask than pretend. When turning the crank pulley to get the tdc by watching as you turn it, it looks like gear is moving to the left as the same direction you will loosen the crank bolt and that would be "counter clockwise" right? I have seen other video of 1.7 that when they are rotating the gear for tdc, it looks like the direction is to the right so i wonder if this is depends on the year or model life ex, lx etc. Also what if after you got the old timing belt out and is no longer on tdc, how do you adjust it without the belt on? Or go ahead and install the new timing belt and then put in on tdc?

[@piercedasian]

Yikes I'm 2 weeks behind in my response. It does depend on the car that you're working on. Rule of thumb I have is if your Honda's crank pulley is on the driver's side of the car then your car rotates counter clockwise. if your engine crank pulley is on the right then the engine rotates clockwise. If the engine was never in TDC b/c the previous mechanic didn't do it right then you should make sure it is TDC when installing the new belt. Line the cam up to the marks as show in my video and likewise for the crank. You can see on the timing gear that slides on to the crankshaft that it has lines that line up to the little pointer on the engine block. Sorry for the late response and I hope you got things put back together properly.

[@SaltyRice808]

I bought a used 2005 civic ex from a dealership and i was told they are going to change the timing belt and water pump as part of the deal but i went under the car to look for oil leak and noticed that one of arm of lower timing belt was missing or (broker) where the other screw supposed to go. My oil leak is near the timing belt so I'm worried that i might some oil going in to my timing belt. If i just wanna inspect my timing belt and also replace the lower cover, do i need to worry about the position of the camshaft ( the one where you need to line up the left and right notches) or that is only for installing a new belt which im hoping i wont have to do? And to get access to the lower cover i need to remove the pulley right?

[@piercedasian]

No if you want to replace the lower cover then you just need to make sure you have a crankshaft bolt removal tool. You basically follow my vid instructions on how to take things apart BUT just leave the timing belt and engine mounts in place.

[@declanosbourne62]

Hey man,I just watched your video of you working on a 2002 civic ex just like mine. I have a problem with this noise constantly coming from down below my crankshaft area as if the tensioner is to tight, which I think it is but not sure. And I'm have a ( p1361, TDC sensor 1 noise ). I changed the sensor and it stop turn off on me while driving and also stop hesitating to start and lost of power. After installed the sensor the check engine light when out after driving a few minutes but , it came back yesterday.. If the timing belt is too tight, will it cause the issue that I'm having with the code ( p1361,TDC sensor 1 noise) ?. Also there are two Mark's on the lower timing belt cover, there is one that you were looking through from the top with the ( V ) And there is another that's right underneath the (V) that you were looking through. Both of them should be used to catch the time, right?

[@piercedasian]

Hi Declan, the timing belt can't be too tight unless you forced the belt to be tight. On this gen of civic the tensioner is spring based and self tensions to the appropriate "tightness". I'd definitely go back and measure the old belt vs. new belt to make sure it is the same size as a too small of a belt could potentially make things tighter than they should be and throw your engine timing way off. As for the "V" on the timing cover that is the window you look through to see the white TDC mark on the crankshaft. You look down into the V parallel and straight down the center of the molded pointer above the V so you don't get "viewing angle deviation errors". You line your view with the molded pointer, look through the "V" and then make sure that when you set TDC that the white mark lines up in the middle of that V. Make sense? You don't need to use a timing light on these newer civic since the timing is self adjusting and as long as you have proper TDC that it should run perfectly. Now if you're dying to use a light to see the timing marks you follow the same instructions but as the light fires you likely will see the "red" pulley mark which denotes 16 degrees +/- 2 degree BTDC. The P1361 code does suggest something isn't right with your timing and potential sensor issues. Hope that helps.

[@declanosbourne62]

@@piercedasian I release some tension off the tensioner and the noise went away..I bring the tensioner back too much..

[@robcarter42]

Isn't it a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time as the timing belt?

[@flymaxn]

Hi, I have Civic with D16 engine. T.belt + tension-er+ wpump changed. Done 3k miles so far since the change however When the car is in idle 700 rpm idling then suddenly noise occurs as if its metal on metal but if i rev the engine over 1k that noise immediately goes away. I have no idea what it could be other than some guess work that it maybe the belt tension or the idle speed not good at being 700 rpm or piston hitting valves or ac compresor pulley bearing? No CEL or any other lights on dash. but its annoying also i feel slight power loss since belt change. Thanks

[@piercedasian]

are you sure it isn't the exhaust system heat shield making that noise? That was a common problem on the Civics and integras where the heat shield securing screws would separate from the sheet metal and vibrate. Did this noise only start right after changing the t-belt?

[@flymaxn]

yes only noticed after belt service (done by indie mechanic), also engine vibrates during idling @ 700rpm (once engine reaches operating temp).

[@flymaxn]

i think it might be the Crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer making noise like a helicopter if am driving over 35mph.

[@piercedasian]

hmm it is hard to diagnose without hearing or seeing the car but I would definitely take it back to your indie mechanic and get that fixed asap!

[@maybe_brit]

2002 Civic EX just purchased, original owner, garage kept, 148,000 miles Thanks, excellent tutorial! Do you have any advice or videos regarding changing the camshaft and crank seal while in there? Also the water pump? I was going to pay a mechanic to do this, now I am going to do it myself.

[@piercedasian]

I do not have the video to show the seal replacement BUT I will say that if it isn't leaking don't mess with them. When I worked at Honda the techs NEVER replaced the seals unless they were showing signs of wear. My 1991 civic went over 500, 000km on the original seals and nary of a leak anywhere. Water pump is super easy, just buy a new pump and look at the holes on the new pump. Undo the holes for old pump and put the remove screw into the new pump (for reference purposes). Then when you got the old pump out, transfer the the screws again to the old pump (again for reference). Install the new pump one screw at a time. No sealer is needed and just hand tight for the water pump screws (had to believe its hand tight but it is). Good luck!

[@mpfjaxmpfjax3046]

@@piercedasian Thanks! I was inadvertently using by daughter's account (she was logged in on my laptop) when I commented previously. Another question... The previous owner said that she had the front struts replaced recently. I notice that the front driver's side is sitting lower and if I measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the finder it is definitely lower on the left front. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Matt

[@piercedasian]

the springs are sagging and the only way to correct for this is to replace the front springs as matched pair. I have a similar problem on my CRX, and it isn't enough to warrant the amount of work needs to change them out. How much sag are you seeing?

[@mpfjaxmpfjax3046]

@@piercedasian It's about a half inch lower on the left front and about a quarter inch lower on the left rear.

[@piercedasian]

hmm, that is wonky. Personally it isn't a huge enough variation that I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't necessarily pose a safety risk and more of a ride height /aesthetic problem. It really comes down to your tolerance level but the cost to fix is pretty pricey because the whole suspension has to come out.

[@kijis1000]

great

[@mohmedsabubakkar5917]

Hey, got belt and water pump and belt tensioner (non- oem parts) replaced at a garage but i feel something is not right because there seems to be power loss and i have noticed the car engine starts @ 1500 rpm COLD but at operating temp the car idles at 400rpm ? any help, thanks.

[@piercedasian]

+Shihab Abubakkar there is a very good chance that the timing is off. When cold the car should be 1000 or so RPM and then warm 750RPM. Power loss is a sure sign that the timing marks are likely off.

[@mohmedsabubakkar5917]

+piercedasian Thank you for your reply, it seems i have misread the tach o meter needle on my civic, the engine actually idles between 700-800 rpm.

[@piercedasian]

hmm, are you sure then that you're experiencing power loss or is it perhaps the "placebo" effect? An engine that is out of time would definitely not feel right. Perhaps there are other issues with the engine?

[@flymaxn]

+piercedasian Hi, i am wondering why the 2 fans behind the radiator of my civic are not coming on regularly as they used to before i got the belt & water pump and coolant relplaced. thanks

[@piercedasian]

+flymaxn Couple of possible causes: 1. Is the cooling fan sensor working correctly? 2. The new water pump could be moving coolant faster through your engine and therefore doesn't need the cooling fans to come on as often. 3. Your operating conditions (ambient temps) are lower than you realize. 4. If you want to test - run your car at 2500 rpm idle after driving the car for about 15 minutes. I'll bet that within 5 minutes of holding the engine at 2500 RPM that the fan will come on. Do pay attention that your heater is off and watch that temperature gauge to make sure your car doesn't actually overheat while performing this test.

[@joesatosa4792]

Is there a certain way put a new belt tensioner And water pump

[@piercedasian]

Nope, just make sure the mating surface is clean of coolant, dirt and oil and screw back on making sure you pay careful attention to the bolt lengths that come out and reinstall in reverse order. Don't over torque the bolts, they're tiny little 10mm screws so they can snap pretty easily if you crank on them real hard. Tensioner is similar. Just pay attention to orientation of pulley and don't over tighten the 14 mm bolt.

[@williamlethco7208]

I'm currently replacing the timing belt and water pump on my '03 Civic and have run into a problem. When the white mark on the crankshaft pulley is in line with the two notches and timed properly as it should be, the camshaft pulley is NOT timed properly. The camshaft pulley doesn't rotate where the two notch and "up" markings are in the 9, 12, and 3 o'clock positions as they should be. To get the camshaft pulley timed correctly, the crankshaft pulley has to be out of time (and vice versa). So, is it OK to first time the camshaft pulley correctly, remove the timing belt and then time the crankshaft pulley on its own without the belt? Or should it be done a different way? Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

hmm, this seems odd... was the motor running fine with the cam and crank supposedly "out of time". It can be deceiving to believe that the engine is out of time and the key thing here is that the crank and the cam can be adjusted with no belt on but ever so slightly. The trick to getting the cam right is to put a straight edge on the flat surface of the cylinder valve edge (where the valve cover gasket meets the head). I use a metal ruler and line up the little notch in the camshaft pulley to the straight edge. This ways you KNOW for sure that the cam is timed right. Then I would then go adjust the crank such that the white crank mark lines up with the marker on the engine side cover. Does that make sense?

[@williamlethco7208]

Thanks for responding. Today I was told to keep rotating the crankshaft until markings on both pulleys are timed correctly. It took 2-3 spins but it worked. Before I only turned the crankshaft once without realizing that I had to keep going. One last question though. The motor does have a small oil leak (but doesn't leak when turned off) and I've looked over it several times and cannot find it. Any suggestions of where to look?

[@piercedasian]

try taking a look at the oil pressure sensor as it seems to be a problem on older Honda that leak. The sensor to electrical plug connection forms cracks in the plastic assembly and well you can guess what happens after that...

[@carlos2nice]

What kimd pf tool u use tp remove that pulley bolt? What was that

[@piercedasian]

the tool I used to take the pulley bolt is the factory approved honda crank holding tool. It is SUPER expensive for what it is but an extremely well made tool. I think I paid something crazy like $300 for it back in 1999. Today there are much more cost effective crank holding tools that can be had for as cheap as maybe $30. Don't know how good the quality of those ones are but I'm a firm believer in buying super high quality tools b/c they'll hold up to the strength needed to take off some brutally stubborn fasteners. The honda crank pulley bolt is one such fastener... heaven forbid if the crank holding tool your using damages the crank pulley (not sure how but what if?) then you'd be on the hook to find a new crank pulley or bolt. Buy good quality and it will serve you extremely well.

[@rickyboyz1006]

59:45 same to you buddy!!

[@piercedasian]

lol that is hilarious. I didn't even see that. Good observation!

[@rickyboyz1006]

@@piercedasian Just bustin' yer balls bro! Excellent and thorough info. Made it easy for me!

[@piercedasian]

lol, I figured as much.

[@James-hy1yk]

Very good sir.... your life has some use after all

[@James-hy1yk]

Shows up decade late to party

[@mikekinloch6049]

All the more reason to own old rwd Volvo’s w b18, 21, 23 motors. Belt breaks no worries. New belt and 30 minutes later you’re on down the road. Slowly.

[@piercedasian]

So true... interference engines are a PITA should one forget to replace their t-belt. Glad that Honda is slowly doing away with the timing belt....

[@mikekinloch6049]

piercedasian ya I’ve never understood putting rubber material into an oily atmosphere w fatal consequences and rely on it to do literally the most important task of an engines valve train. It would be ok if they made it easy and accessible for us very average wrench-heads to partake in service jobs like this but you my man are a super ninja for taking on that little Honda belt. Btw great video. I found it only because my youngest son just got an 02 Acura el and the belt interval is soon...yeesh bring on some knuckle blood! Cheers from B.C. Canada

[@xtasysids75]

Just got for dirt cheap a 2001 LX with 147000 from a customer that needed more work than what the car is worth. The shop I work for even gave him a discounted price quote on all the work it needed. The car is a mess and needed a lot of work from suspension work, brakes, oil leaks, timing belt, and water pump. It was running on the original timing set, leaking oil from the front main seal, oil pan gasket, cam cap, cam seal, and valve cover gasket. I changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, cam seal, and crank front main seal. Everything went fine with the install except for the front main seal I'm still getting a slight leak out of it. Here is my question would a bad harmonic balancer pulley cause this issue? I've even pulled everything out 2 times and changed the front main seal with 2 different brands (fel-pro and honda oem).

[@piercedasian]

Macer Boogies hmm the front seal wouldn't likely leak due to a bad harmonic balancer (you'd likely feel a bad balancer as the engine was running). The leak is probably a result of you either driving the seal in too far or there could be a "nick" or defect in the crankshaft from someone previously trying to yank out a leaky seal with then marred the surface of either the block or the crank.

[@PATuners]

how long did this job take ?

[@piercedasian]

I am a seasoned mechanic so it took me 2 hours to finish everything. A beginner following each step may take 4 hours or so.

[@carlos2nice]

And how muvh do it go for

[@disp3rsion]

Hey pierced, great video. I'm watching it because the mechanic installed my timing belt too tightly. It's making a whining sound (while all other belts have been removed). Do you know what the easiest way is to loosen the tensioner? Thank you so much.

[@piercedasian]

you don't have to take too much stuff apart actually when you want to retention the belt. Just pop the valve cover off and remove the upper timing cover. Set the engine to TDC (using a ruler on the surface of the head to ensure you're bang on TDC). Pop the little rubber cover of the lower timing cover so you can access the 14mm tensioner bolt head. Loosen tensioner bolt, advance the belt 3 teeth or so by turning the crank counter clockwise. Retighten tensioner and reinstall the top timing cover and valve cover.

[@disp3rsion]

@@piercedasian thanks! you're awesome. how do you know all this?

[@piercedasian]

I do a lot of car repair work and even worked at a Honda dealership for a while. Done enough timing belts to almost do them in my sleep :)

[@disp3rsion]

@@piercedasian you should do consulting. Your videos make you very credible. I'd be a paying customer

[@piercedasian]

I've had my spouse and many folks tell me the same exact thing. I guess that is why I continue to fix cars all day long outside of my day job. They say I'm knowledgeable but I say I'm just passionate about what I do.

[@MC-jf6ic]

Hey mate im gonna be re-using my tensioner, do i need the pin?

[@piercedasian]

Nope not at all. The pin is merely there from the manufacturer to save you an extra step by not needing the installer to use a 6mm Allen head socket to retract the tensioner. Just bolt on, install belt and pull pin out to tension.

[@MC-jf6ic]

piercedasian Thanks for the reply. That’s the thing I don’t have the pin. Can I install without the pin?

[@piercedasian]

@@MC-jf6ic Nope, not at all. Just use that 6mm allen socket to put into that little "hex" hold on the tensioner (you can't miss it) and then turn counter (anti) clockwise. No need for a pin.

[@MC-jf6ic]

@@piercedasian Ok, do i do this before tightening the tensioner bolt?

[@piercedasian]

@@MC-jf6ic you don't actually have to loosen the tensioner bolt on this particular civic. The tensioner is constantly under spring pressure so all you have to do is leave the tensioner bolted in. Get a 6mm hex socket bit and insert into the little arm on the tensioner and then turn your ratchet counterclockwise (it doesn't need a lot of force to move it). Slip your belt around it and route it as per my video and when your installed, release the bit from the tensioner and call it a day. Super easy on this generation of civic.

[@Shadoefax760]

I literally do everything on my car but I'm really considering paying to replace water pump, this is so much shit to do just to replace something so simple.

[@MarioCyr]

What was the condition of your old timing belt

[@piercedasian]

It looked brand new but looks are extremely deceiving since I've seen belts that "look brand new" that snapped cleanly in half. Not worth risking. Change at the appropriate time and/or mileage intervals.

[@jamesshin4901]

WOW!!!

[@piercedasian]

I'm assuming that is a good "wow"?

[@MrPyorii]

I lost the woodruff key 😓

[@piercedasian]

burn. You can always get a replacement from the dealership. They sometimes have them in stock and if they don't its usually a day or two away. They're cheap but are ABSOLUTELY required to be put back to keep the crank in tie with the crank pulley.

[@MrPyorii]

I went to the junk yard and got one, cashier giggled over the woodruff key his like " just take it 😂"

[@user-gv4ed4ky3p]

The image is too offensive

[@piercedasian]

Too offensive? How so?