2001 GSX R 750 Throttlebody Sync

[@williammg9135]

Thanks very much for posting this and the TPS adjustment, very helpful and clear instruction.

[@donwolfjr1]

Very good, Sir!! Thank you for the video!! I've never seen this done before!!! : )

[@tomgregory5903]

Cracking videos but has anyone ever told you that you sound like winnie the pooh ? 😂🤷‍♂️👍

[@022187jol]

Thank you Awesome videos

[@davem3008]

Great vid 👌

[@sheldonmurphy6031]

Great Videos Sir ! I wish I had a mech like yourself locally. Instead it's dealers that we have to contend with. My 01 with lowering kit sits at 6.2" ground clearance. I'm trying to get it to the factory height of 5.1". These bikes have a 54° lean angle at factory height, but at 6.2" that puts one in jeopardy of an instant slide out on a knee down. Super frustrating. :) Anyways thanks for your videos sir :)

[@lelandlewis7207]

That you. I am retired now as an automotive machinist due to back issues after a bike accident, but enjoy working on the bikes, it is easier on the back. lol I acquired a certificate in fuel injection back in the early middle '80s when it started to become popular and have kept up on its progression. The biggest thing with any problems in any system is having a good ability to troubleshoot, starting from the basics and working through to the major issues. I have seen many people through every sensor on an engine only to find out it was a vacuum leak or a bad wire. It is like CSI, look at the symptoms, decide what all the possible reasons are and start eliminating them starting with the simplest. Spark issues can cause symptoms similar to FI and visa versa. I spent a few years working as a computer programmer, which really helped with problem solving system issues. Yes, a higher height is going to raise the centre of gravity and completely change the handling characteristics. You can probably look at the tire patch and see how far over you are taking it. I know guys who thought they could take it over farther with the higher clearance, only to find they ran out of tire or went over centre and flopped her down. As long as you understand how a system works and how various changes are going to affect that system, you don't have to be an engineer to make good decisions.

[@sheldonmurphy6031]

That's awesome sir ! my hat goes off to you with much respect :) I was a crude oil mechanic for about 4 years until I broke my back. 8 cages, 8 rods, 5 fused vertebrae, and 3 replaced discs. I could never do that for a living g anymore. After 4 years averaging 90 hours a week, I think I'd cry if I had to work.like that again lol Anyways, I love working on the wife's and my vehicles, including the motorcycles. it's just at a really slow pace now. keep that back in good shape sir ! And remember, if your on pain medication, taken with hot soup hits the spot every time ! Have a great day and God Bless :)

[@lelandlewis7207]

Thank you. Doing a bit of work on the bikes definitely helps keep the sanity. I am just starting a major project on a Harley, going to test my limits,, but the owner understands that it isn't going to be like OCC, done in 6 weeks. lol I got involved with the bike after the owner bought the bike and the engine went sore, throwing a wrist pin. He had it redone at the local dealership only to have it throw the pin again each time. He then boght a Revtech 110 on sale from the US and had the dealer install it. This one went 8 miles before starting to pump the oil out the rocker cover breathers. That is when I got involved, since he wouldn't take it back to the Harley dealer and there are no Revtech dealers in 500 miles. After some research into the oiling system, I pulled the lines from the oil pump and discovered the scavenge wasn't drawing oil. I pulled the oil pump and found that the scavenge gear was destroyed, so it was literally filling the engine to the top with oil. I had to pull the motor and send it back to the US dealer in PA who sent it to Revtech in CA for repair. They found that a rocker clip had popped off and gone into the pump. They had the engine back to us in 4 weeks and I reinstalled it after repairing some shoddy wiring and cleaning the oil tank a lines, but that pretty much finished that season off. (the oil tank still had debris in it from the first engines) Last year he got almost the whole season out of it when a woman pulled out in front of him and he went down the side of her car. This time he scrapped a big spot off of the tank (factory ghost flames) and the oil pump isn't pumping. (shaft isn't turning) I told him that after blowing 3 original engines, the issues we had with the new motor and now someone tries to kill him on it, it is jinxed and get rid of it. lol But no, he wasn't happy with what insurance offered him so he took a lump sum and the bike. Now I have to see what we can do to get it all fixed and back on road. Fortunately, no frame damage. If they had given him a good settlement, I was going to do a complete custom, frame up; one of the items on my bucket list.

[@haroldpeagler1430]

Great information dont have to go to stealer

[@4rch3er19]

I know this is a very old video, but since you seem to have a lot of experience and knowledge, may I ask this? If I adjust the idle screw, will that then unbalance the throttle bodies since it's used for the #1 cylinder vacuum? I only need to add about 200 rpm, so I'm not sure doing it through the ecu would be necessary, since that's apparently the correct way. Thanks

[@lelandlewis7207]

It moves all 4 butterflies, so for a minor adjustment, it shouldn't be an issue.

[@lelandlewis7207]

I should also add, check the TPS setting if you use this method to be sure it is set for idle.

[@4rch3er19]

Holy crap, thanks for replying on a 6 year old video. The TPS was at the bottom with an idle at 1100 rpm. I set that to the middle, then the idle screw only needed to be turned about 1-2 mm to get it to about 1250 where it sounds a lot smoother. It's a 2007 gsx-r1000 that I bought new. I mmediately installed a bmc race air filter, full Ti M4 exhaust (gp style), and power commander 3. It only has 8000 miles on it, but would stall if revved too high in neutral or the clutch in (not near redline though). I thought it was an air/fuel imbalance or voltage issue until people said it could be the TPS. Subbed!

[@IN_ZANE_]

@@4rch3er19 Keep an eye on that BMC filter, have a look at BMC filter failure image search

[@mike216ism]

I can get to everything with the air box on. I disconnected everything besides my calibration unit as if I had the air box off as the manual suggested. Is it okay to leave the air box on if I can get to everything?

[@lelandlewis7207]

In my opinion, I would say yes. With everything in place, you are adjusting as the bike would be when running and could be compensating for any restrictions or disruptions in the airflow within the airbox.

[@mike216ism]

@@lelandlewis7207 first I'd like to tell you your the best teacher out there. You make everything so simple. Much appreciated!!! I'm in my garage now syncing throttle body's. I have a 2005 gsxr 1000. I did it yesterday with everything of just like the manual says. Air box off. I was a little paranoid I didn't do it correctly so now I have my tool calibrated. I have everything unplugged from the air box but I left it on. I can get to everything plus. I had to fix my air box foam today with new foam seals so that's the reason for really not wanting to remove it. Glues drying. So I'm basically confirming everything again. I let the bike cool then started again for my second time. Just want to make sure there going to stay some what consistent. I did notice the values are never exactly the same on each throttle body on second and third test . There really close but more favorable on one side vs another. Ever so slightly but they change a bit. Again thanks so much for your videos Leland. Do you live near Ohio?

[@lelandlewis7207]

@@mike216ism I am in Canada. If there is any wear of the shafts, bushings or even in the engine, you will see slight variations between butterflies which is why adjustments are based on flow rather than butterfly opening. Even valve clearances can affect the adjustment since they affect airflow.

[@mike216ism]

@@lelandlewis7207 I just checked my valves as suggested by you before buying the sync pro. I was debating if I'm going to keep up on my old reliable or buy a new gsxr. I did a compression test a month ago. It was an even 185psi on all 4 cylinders so I decided to just keep her. I have 40k on it. I'm pretty sure the valves where never done before doing them. To my relief they where all good. The exhaust where a little closer to being out of spec than the intake. The intake where right smack in the middle of the chart. After doing valves, plugs, air filter, brake and collant change I'm ready for the summer. I will say how your tps sensor video and this throttle body sync helped me out tremendously. Both where off. My vacuum reading initially were way off. 4 was really high. 3 was really low and 1 and 2 where far a part. Now my bike has a lot less vibrations. Thanks so much again. Take care and stay healthy

[@lelandlewis7207]

@@mike216ismThanks.. U 2.

[@sancho8636]

hello i know it's an old video,but is it the same procedure on gsxr k1 1000? thank you

[@GregorySchlaifer]

I'd assume so.

[@rdotb2323]

were did you get the valves that open and close

[@MoodSwingZX]

so much easier than on xD 2011- 750

[@florrevansteenkiste]

; Hi , i kjnow how to adjust my synq BUT i have a K3 and i DONT have the nipple on my carbs , so a lot of people are wondering how the hell can we adjust our throttle .DOES ANYBODY have an idea ???? we also have the screws for adjusting carb 1-2 carb 3-4 and the middle one

[@lelandlewis7207]

There are air-flow meters that go on the carb inlet, such as the Uni-syn tool. They are slower, since you have to measure each carb individually, but they work on any multi-carb setup. I have one from when I worked on dual-carb VW vans.

[@jayflash2035]

8:04 I just cannot get this thing off. Any tips?

[@lelandlewis7207]

Once you pinch down on the retaining clip on top of the electrical plug, it should just slip out. If it is stuck, I would have to assume either there is a corroded terminal or someone has put something on it, like silicone.

[@ElmoGoesPunk]

hi how to solve throttle 60 up speed engine surges ?

[@lelandlewis7207]

Very hard to troubleshoot without having the bike. Do you have an FI indicator on? If so, check what codes are set, clear and take the bike for a drive or if the FI comes back on immediately, check the codes again. Did the same code(s) come back? If so, that is a good place to start. Also, if no FI, do any warning lights come on when it is acting up? Does it rev well without load? Is it worse under hard load, such as uphill, or accelerating from lower speed in a high gear? Does it get worse when speed is higher? Some possibilities are: plugs or coils; TPS; vacuum leak (this will usually cause more idle issues and lean); fuel leaning out; too much backpressure; restricted air intake; dirty injectors; fuel pressure; dirty fuel filter; restricted fuel tank breather; etc. Start with the easy and move through to the more expensive and harder possibilities.

[@jamiebooker2632]

now what happens if tps doesnt stay still does that mean its bad??

[@lelandlewis7207]

That is a possibility. By "not still", do you mean after you set and tighten it, the line jumps around? If so, check all connections for corrosion and check that the tps screws are holding it tightly. Also check the throttle shaft for wear in the bushing behind the tps; this isn't common, but is a possibility. You can check your TPS with a multimeter set on ohms. I am not sure of a correct ohm reading, but if it is jumping around or at 0, then it is definitely bad. As you move the TPS, the ohm reading should change fairly smoothly and not take large jumps up and down. There are videos on KZbin an proper testing. Don't throw parts at it until you are sure it is bad.

[@davidriley1257]

How much harder id's this if you only have 2 gages

[@lelandlewis7207]

It will be aggravating. You'll have to move the gauges between pairs of throttle bodies. Check the left pair first since the leftmost carb is usually your base reading. Note the reading and adjust the second throttle body to match. Move the gauges to the right pair and adjust them to match the first pair. Move the gauges back to the left pair and verify the reading. Do this until all readings match, then adjust the idle if necessary.

[@davidriley1257]

@@lelandlewis7207 thank you so much this has been an on going thing but basically I bought a sec. Hand lion who is in bad shape all around but your videos are very help fulll thxs 4 your reply

[@RudesZH]

My problem is lil bit different. On my throttle bodies k3 750 those nipples are missing - no nipples there, just 4 holes without nipples. Nipples are screwed in throttle bodies? Wondering if they can be ordered as a spare part...

[@lelandlewis7207]

That is common. Most of the vacuum gauge kits come with brass nipples in various lengths just for this situation. Here is one on Amazon for a good price. I am not recommending this tool, I have not used it, I am just showing it as an example of a tool with nipple adapters. www.amazon.com/AlphaMoto-Motorcycle-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Synchronization/dp/B004MSJ7E6

[@crprince1]

Wrong! The three little screws are used entirely differently .. the little screw between 1 and 2 throttle bodies is used to set 1and 2 evenly /balanced to each other only…Then go to the little screw between 3and 4 and only balance 3 and 4 to themselves ( don’t worry about what 1 and 2 are doing). ( 1 and 2 should be balanced only to themselves also).. once you’ve balanced the 2 individual banks (1/2..3/4) to themselves, you can then go to the little screw between 2 and 3 .. by turning that little screw you will bring banks 1/2 and bank 3/4 into alignment ( identical)., the idle screw ( big screw) is used after the synchronization ( or if the idles goes too high or low while synchronizing as it moves all four butterflies simultaneously ( it’s not just for one throttle body!)

[@lelandlewis7207]

Actually, it isn't wrong. The procedure I showed is what is in the Suzuki service manual except they use a ball balancer and as shown, all butterflies are balanced when the procedure is finished. Yes, the big screw adjusts idle, as I mentioned. If your method works for you, then fine. The only thing I missed in the video is that Suzuki recommends setting and keeping the idle at 1,150 throughout the procedure.

[@crprince1]

Still stand by my assertion.. in your video you give the distinct impression that the “ idle screw” is for adjusting the number 1 throttle body..nope.. carburetors / throttle bodies all follow the same procedure of ( with few exceptions) of synchronizing where the separate banks( ex. 1&2 ..3&4 are synchronized to them selves first then aligned with the center screw..on rare occasions a throttle body/ carburetor is designated the “ master” to which the remaining bodies/ carbs are synchronized too.. not my method.. it is “ the “ method ..@@lelandlewis7207

[@lelandlewis7207]

@@crprince1 Once again, the procedure I followed is in the service manual. The butterfly set has 3 adjustment screws, which are for #2,3 and 4, so #1 only has the idle screw to open or close the butterfly to adjust it up or down on the gauge. It also moves all 4 for the idle adjustment. As the idle is adjusted during the procedure, or if #1 body is much lower than the others, the idle screw is going to change the setting of #1 body. If there is an adjusting screw I am missing that adjusts #1 or another way to adjust #1, by all means, point it out. Your procedure is based on the fact that adjusting anything to the left affects the bodies to the right. By adjusting #2 first, then match #4 to 3, when you adjust #3, it also adjusts 4 to #1 and 2. This has no different result from adjusting each body individually. Both are doing the exact same thing, matching the air intake of the 4 bodies by adjusting each butterfly. You could also adjust #4 to match #3 first, then adjust #3 to match #2 and finally adjust #2 to match #1, keeping your idle adjusted to 1,150 and all should be adjusted properly including the idle. I have no issues with leaving your procedure in the comments in case others want to use it, but to say the video is wrong simply because it doesn't use your procedure is incorrect.