2002-2006 Cayenne S 4.5L V8 955 Timing Chain DIY (Part 2) Rebuid

[@ThomasACahan]

Every nut bolt chain tensioner etc in the Entire 2 part high speed time lapse video screams through your mind's eye when you first fire it up after repair 😬 .... Retired career tech here... No more nice shiny modern vehicles! --- This is why I sold 4 Mercedes, an Audi, a BMW, and a Jaguar and now drive a ratty Bone stock 50 year old jeep 😊 .... BTW -- Great job!! 😊

[@purplelizardtoes]

Thank you, brother, for this follow-up! I'm doing the 4.8, and most the information you've carefully detailed applies there also. The Winter is just melting away in my "shop" (aka my car-park), and I was only able to get as far as the Part 1 before snow hit, so the timing of your update is ideal for me!

[@philly_beez]

i’m going to be doing a timing job on my 955 so this video will provide immense help. thanks for the video!

[@timsgarage1356]

see part 1 also

[@morganseiter]

Dope videos man! I like your vibe!

[@TheHooolagon]

Thank you(!) hope you’re enjoying the car and wishing your son the best 🙌 Cest la vie but you’re handling it 💪 Porsche life 🤑🚗💨💨💨

[@avant74]

Very nice work. But after the cold start, the engine sound is other than normal. It resembles to typical bore scoring sound. Or is it just the microphone (?)

[@timsgarage1356]

Well, I just said that to be simple, it was 4 things that made it sound a LOT worse. The tapping or rather the injectors ticking are the primary source of the sound. The hard line from the vacuum booster that goes across the firewall under the rain tray was split, the nipple on the back of the plastic manifold was snapped off, and I had a throttle body leak, the oring was missing from the divider. The evap valve was also leaking and i fixed that a while later and now its VERY quiet. I had a thread on the Porsche club forms but they banned me because they don't like loud people who do things cheap and the right way other than their own. The scoring issue is from the 2 variations of the engine block from 2 plants in Mexico that cast them. luck of the draw if you get one that was not a defective casting, no way to tell. I send oil out to blackstone labs every change.

[@billy7301]

Good Videos. How many hours all up ? I missed that. Thanks

[@timsgarage1356]

For the entire job? If i were to do it again knowing what to do, about 30 hours. this took me about 40 hours give or take. im not exactly sure! There was a lot of figuring things out!

[@JoeArrowsmith-le7ul]

I’m in CO Springs. Any chance I could have you come take a look at mine for a short time? I have it all apart but I’m having trouble with the timing. Great videos, thank you!!

[@timsgarage1356]

Yea actually, im not far, im in lower denver. You should email me and we can connect. I would be happy to!

[@timsgarage1356]

I can actually come out today if you want. Send me an email. Today is going to be like the last nice day for a while.

[@JoeArrowsmith-le7ul]

Sorry I missed your message. I sent you an Email today. Talk soon, I appreciate it.

[@mkaj]

great video! thanks!

[@timsgarage1356]

did you catch the mistake i made?

[@yuanzhege7323]

Hi, thanks for sharing the video. a quick question: if I only want to replace timing case gasket, do I need to use camshaft locking tool or I can harmonic pulley pin to lock the camshaft pulley when removing it ? I dont wanna mess around with timing chain

[@timsgarage1356]

The gasket is metal and no way should ever leak unless there is other damage. It is a compressed metal that you should add a dab of gasket maker at the seams. The be direct.... this engine does not need any special tools as I said and for your task, no you are not doing the timing chain job so no lockout is needed the harmonic balancer is keyed. Just do NOT rotate the crank counter clockwise otherwise you will be doing a timing chain job against your will. Imo at anything past 100k you should be doing the job anyways. 90% of the work is done. You will have to do everything I did other than the chain its self. Why is it leaking? Are you sure? Might be a crack in the cover? Might be the seal on the shaft? Imo do the job right once.

[@timsgarage1356]

IMO the amount of parts and work to get to that gasket, it will cost about $300 to finish the job and do the timing chain.You need to check the deviation of bank 0 and bank 1 to know the health of the chain. If you have not yet done so, change out the coolant tank. it is literally a ticking time bomb... seriously, a video coming up on that soon

[@tonytapuro9264]

Cool tutorial videos hi have a question when you removed everything from passenger side of the engine like air box and all did it seems like there is room on the side to work on the turbo or removed it cause my 06 turbo s have a boost leak and technicians said it was the waste gate stuck open which is a common issues but they said only way to repair was to drop engine that will cost 11,000$ to replace turbo i was hoping to find a way around that like clearimg the passenger side ..thanks keep up the good work and videos 😜

[@timsgarage1356]

this is a Cayenne S, not a turbo. That being said, i was told i had to drop the engine for this... NOPE. There is a ok amount of room there but i cant speak for any turbo work. My guess is that yes there probably is enough but i hate to say this, go to renlist and the 955 957 forums and check it out, just don't post much, they do not like new members, they banned me because they did not like how i did this timing job because it was not "by the book", the admins on those forums are old grumpy trolls!

[@tonytapuro9264]

@@timsgarage1356 thanks no you did great job on that timing work who cares what ppl say so long the job was done and it started first crank that save yoh alot of $$ and will save others who watched your videos anyways i was aware that cayenne s is non turbo just wanted to know if there was enough space for my tiny arms to work on the wastegate or turbo it seems like from the front below the air box got some ample room but from up top or down under there isnt enough room to use tools as i did changed the upper o2 sensor right side and it was really hard the lower o2 sensor i couldn't get a tool to removed it anyways thanks and keep up the good work and videos and hope more of the cayenne as i am trying to work on it myself it was a free bee from my brother

[@timsgarage1356]

@@tonytapuro9264 when i was looking in there, i said to myself, good thing i dont have to work on the exhaust.... you can reach back there but .... fingers crossed. it might be very helpfull to remove the bumper and rad like i did to get in there. Remove the tire and some suspension parts too might help

[@choppergear6990]

Hi. Great video. My deviation is -5 and -10 what does this mean? Thanks.

[@timsgarage1356]

@@choppergear6990 you need alldata diy. All the information you need in there. If I remember correctly I think it's 14 in total is the cain is too far stretched to correct. You are at 15. It's been a while so I can't recall correctly. There are 3 things that you need to do asap that basically requires you to do this job anyways. Guides are shot, chain tensioner is shot and at its max travel. And the chain is too far stretched to reclock the timing. The bulk of the work was taking the valve covers off and putting them back on due to all the wiring. Other than that it's a fairly easy job all things considered.

[@choppergear6990]

@timsgarage1356 Thanks for your reply, I thought it needed doing, not sure how to time it up correctly once the chain goes back on but I'll figure it out!

[@timsgarage1356]

@@choppergear6990 Follow my part 1. , the only thing i did wrong really was not setting the timing on the cams and locking them out before i pulled the timing cover. only rotate clockwise when doing so so that the chain tensioner is still keeping it accurate. You might need to slightly move the cams to get them to lock out with the bars but other than that, its not difficult. Buy the parts i did in the video. saves you almost $600. the timing chain you want will be stamped IWIS or JWIS. If you do NOT have an AC vacuum pump and a micron gauge and a 4 port 134a gauge setup... just have a shop reclaim the refrigerant, then charge it up for you, just make sure that it passes a 500 micron vacuum decay test 1st. the ONLY thing i would have done differently is install a NEW Alternator as its REALLY easy to do now if your at the 140K miles plus range. ALSO replace your coolant tank NOW if it has not been updated yet. its a ticking time bomb.,

[@choppergear6990]

Guides, chain, tensioner, gaskets, oil, o rings, cam tool and waterpump all ordered. I changed the alternator a few month ago, what a pain in the ass to do that! Do you think it's possible to do the chain job without removing the front bumper and just the radiator? It's hard work sourcing all the bits required, most places are out of stock here in the UK. Thanks again.

[@timsgarage1356]

@choppergear6990 you do not need any of the cam tools btw. Some flat stock and a drill bit is all you need. Impossible to do it without taking them out. Follow my video guide. Besides... Taking them off was easy and only took an hour . Best of luck. You need alldatadiy

[@SleddinWideOpen]

just curious what was the vacuum leak you said you fixed at the end of the video ? nice video thanks!!

[@timsgarage1356]

Well, I just said that to be simple, it was 4 things that made it sound a LOT worse. The tapping or rather the injectors ticking are the primary source of the sound. The hard line from the vacuum booster that goes across the firewall under the rain tray was split, the nipple on the back of the plastic manifold was snapped off, and I had a throttle body leak, the oring was missing from the divider. The evap valve was also leaking and i fixed that a while later and now its VERY quiet. I had a thread on the Porsche club forms but they banned me because they don't like loud people who do things cheap and the right way other than their own. Once those where fixed the timing graph shifted back for the injection and the ticking was half as loud. Nothing to do with the valves and or bore. These engines do have a bore scoring issue but has nothing to do with oil or temps or annoying other than the random back luck of getting one of 2 blocks that where cast for these from 2 locations.

[@florianschmidt2931]

Hi Tim! Could you let me know what the thickness of the camshaft lockout plates is? Looks like 3mm or thereabouts...

[@timsgarage1356]

I will get my calipers out and measure them tomorrow for you, BUT IMO i would do the same thing i did on my VW, use sawsall blades and a magnet stacked up and held in place. Then all you need is that drill bit to lock out the crank, as long as its a 955 you dont need any fancy tools other than what i listed. a Vacuum coolant filler is a BIG plus but its not MANDATORY

[@florianschmidt2931]

@@timsgarage1356 thanks so much! I actually have the proper timing tools, but one of the locking plates fell into the abyss of the engine bay and I just couldn’t retrieve it. Now, the car and the tools are currently not at my place and I wanted to cut a replacement before I get back to my car :) I’m just replacing hydraulic lifters, so I’m not doing anything to the cooling circuit, but thanks for the heads up.

[@florianschmidt2931]

I have retrieved the second lock out plate from within the engine bay. If anyone needs the same information in the future: the plates are 5mm thick.

[@timsgarage1356]

@@florianschmidt2931 PERFECT... i have yet to get down to the garage this week. Thanks

[@shamwow316]

Would this be a simliar process for 2011 Porsche cayenne s v8?

[@timsgarage1356]

@@shamwow316 in general, probably, but I would say no. Completely different engine. The 1st gen cayenne is basically a VW Toreg, the 3rd Gen you have is Not and is going to have serious big differences. But overall your taking the same things off and replacing the timing chain. So it can't hurt to watch! Let me know how that goes!

[@shamwow316]

​@@timsgarage1356I'm at the point of turning the camshafts to the matrix dots to remove guides and chain but there is resistance when trying to turn camshaft.

[@timsgarage1356]

@@shamwow316 You should be rotating the crank with the crank bolt before you take anything off including the tensioner but after the valve covers are off. this lets you clock the crank and the cams at the same time. they will only align one way with the flat face of the head where the valve covers seal in the back, if they are not fitting, rotate again 180*. If somehow you did what i did and got ahead of yourself like i did in my video and now your crank skipped some teeth on the chain or took the chain off, not to worry. rotate the crank a little bit and rotate a cam, if it rotates 360* you have moved the pistons enough to clear the valves, lock out the cams, and reposition the crank in its locked out position and reassemble. they both only lock out in ONE position so it cant be backwards. You will have a LOT of resistance when the lobs of the cams are pushing down springs. just go slow with a long bar and socket on the cam bolt CLOCKWISE ONLY it will go but if it feels like it is stopping do not force it and rotate the crank a little bit more. i had done about 1/8 of a turn give or take. TO be sure, you can pull the spark plugs and measure with a stick a piston from the crank lock out position that puts some of the pistons at TDC for comparing to check if they all have moved enough, about 1 inch is all you need to clear the valves. I'm not sure if this answers your question. Feel free to email me and ill be happy to give you a call. My email is in the youtube more about this channel under community. I did address this in this video and in the last video.

[@sjoroverpirat]

How long did it take you? I'm considering doing the same as i have to do the alternator.

[@timsgarage1356]

the alternator can be removed without doing any of what i did. Drain the coolant, remove a lot of covers and the fender liner. You do NOT need to pull the bumper to do the alternator. The Alternator is a 3 hour job. What i did in part 1 and 2 took about 5 days but in the end was about 30 hours.

[@sjoroverpirat]

@@timsgarage1356 I know i can i do it from the wheelwell. But i need to replace pulleys, find an AC leak and lots of other small jobs so i think it will be easier to just remove everything before i start

[@timsgarage1356]

@@sjoroverpirat Oh yea fair enough. To get to where i took the radiator assembly off was about 3 hours of work. While you are at it, starter? water pump? coolant flush? Make sure you replace the coolant tank as its prone to exploding at this age and after 100K miles. Buy a sniffer to find the AC leak. high chance its the condenser as its right in the way of flying rocks. the AC system is a BIG system. Make sure you get a NEW filter dryer and purge with nitrogen if you open the system. Buy a micron gauge and vac it down to 250 microns. IMo if you can get it to 350 and it holds, good enough. DO NOT SKIP THAT STEP

[@jamesputney6009]

Big job. I’m thinking about doing the same. I guess my timing jumped tooth on my Porsche

[@timsgarage1356]

You may want to contact a framing deck contractor in your area as ask him for more Porch Teeth! Joking aside! Have you checked divination? if you can jump a tooth... it means you probably jumped many and if you did one or more the engine would NOT run very well if at all. my divination originally was -7 on one side and 16 on the other side.... that's about as far as it gets before the engine runs terrible, much further and valves and pistons get to meet. IMO it was not as big of a job as you would think, the wiring harness and fighting with dumb issues like o rings took a lot of the time. Best of luck, hope my part 1 and 2 help!

[@jamesputney6009]

@@timsgarage1356 absolutely your video was very educational and he did a very good job and that’s the thing when I put it on the scanner. It says it’s off a few degrees in timing. It has a little bit of a rough idle but while running runs absolutely perfect I wish I knew more about these cars. I’m gonna send you the codes on here and see if they make any sense to you.

[@timsgarage1356]

@@jamesputney6009 don't worry about all the codes. From what i gathered, 100k to 150k these engines for both the 955 and 957 both need the timing chain replaced. its just you know... like 8 feet long! i put it up to the new chain and it was about 1/8 of a chain link longer, so NOT that much chain stretch caused my engine to be about 11.5 out of time from each other (7 plus 16 divided by 2). i would check a few other things that cause rough idle and what not... check the brake booster vacuum line that goes to the evap control valve (its a (Y) shaped connection that goes to the back of the intake manifold. the hard line right behind the passenger wheel behind the coolant tank was split, and the purge valve was not connected up properly. i fixed that in a thread i made on renlist but they banned me because they did not like my way of doing things, so i will have to email you some pictures. ALSO change your coolant tank before it explodes. all 955 and 957's and many others have faulty old coolant tanks. plastic gets brittle. the upgraded part is a better cap too.

[@timsgarage1356]

If the deviation is like +5 and +10, you could just time it back, but if the total deviation is more than 8 in total than it must be replaced.

[@ewaldkomarnizky4085]

🙈👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼