2002 F150 4.2 too lean

[@1976Datsun]

The bad isolator bolts don't leak themelves. They just stop pressing down on the manifold and let the manifold gaskets leak. The way they work is the rubber grommets press down on the upper manifold just through the compression of the rubber when you tighten the bolt down. The grommet is compressed between the top of the bolt and the upper intake manifold, creating downward elastic force on the upper manifold. Over time the rubber gets hard and loses its elasticity and doesn't create any more downward force. Then the manifold gaskets leak. I had the same problem and noticed that all of the isolator bolts had a good seal in their holes. But the gaskets showed signs of leaking. The point of the isolator bolts is to allow the plastic to expand and contract, by separating (isolating) it from the metal lower manifold. Just posting for anyone that wondered how they worked. Thanks for the video, they all help.

[@coreybabcock2023]

luckily i have the earlier engine

[@johnd115]

Thank you. I also had those codes and after following the instructions from other youtube posts all I did was spend money till I came across your posting about the rails. Lo and behold the plastic inserts were all broken apart and 1 rail was completely off. Fixed it and all codes are gone and truck running fine again.

[@exnjute]

Thanks dude. Good video and tips. I had the same codes(P0171 & P0174) and changed the PCV valve and that cured the codes for 3 weeks but now it came back, but now only have one code(one bank) showing lean. I don't have a good mirror like you do so will go out and get one. I'm hoping I only need this little plastic bushing because I hate to tackle the entire intake......I'm 75 and it is getting harder and harder for me to do these jobs. I'll probably do the EGR & MAF while I'm in there. Oh for the good old days when cars didn't have all this shit and computers.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

the inspection mirror is cheap! you might need someone with small hands to do this job, I have pretty short arms and small hands and even I had problems with the clearance tackling this job. it might be 50cent part, but getting to that part wont be easy. and Kudos to you for still learning and keeping up with the newer cars and more complicated cars, some people wont bother and would just pay someone else to do it. good luck!

[@bossness4896]

The fact that this dude could have died by now and his comment still being read by people

[@Sncedayone]

Reset your pcm. Take negative battery terminal off. then turn headlights on to drain the capacitors. Wait 30 min. Hook back up. Drive normal for awhile

[@samdorsey4590]

Thank you for a very informative video!! I've been getting a lean on bank 2 code for a long time! I'd reset the code & be fine for weeks or even months, then the code has been coming on for the last 3 weeks! Even after I reset the code it now is coming on shortly afterwards! I remember my Dad, a mechanic would always tell me, 9 times out 10 it'll always be something simple!!! That's the logic I have always used when working on vehicles!!! Alot of people Dad said would always think the worst case scenario when it comes to vehicles! Thanks again for your video & RIP Dad!

[@dannylewandowski2822]

On my 98 4.2 I had new upper and lower Intake gaskets done. Coolant was dropping into the combustion chamber. This is common for the older years. However they also fixed this white round-square bushing. Helped for a while and then codes came back alongside with weird changing idle rpm. After some browsing trough forums I decided changed the DPFE sensor and it idles at one spot now ~800rpm. :-) love this truck and how it runs now. No problems for a year now with lean codes. 👍🏼👍🏼 5 spd manual 4.2 Essex 3.73

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

mine does not have an RPM guage - but it does fluctuate on the RPM on idle and u can tell by ear sometimes. but nothing that alarms the ECU to send a service engine light, so im thinking its semi-normal for it to do so. Specially in cold start. i might look into replacing that then, its cheap and i know where its located. thanks for the insight, i noticed one of the plastic tabs on those rods had a copper wire tying it to the hinge. i came to the conclusion that this wasnt the first time it happened to my truck and that someone had already been there and done this before.

[@obfuscated3090]

Good job you caught it before it hydrolocked the engine! Anyone who removes the upper should replace the lower as you did even if it's not leaking at the time. Gaskets are cheaper than engines.

[@scootershot]

You deserve an award for this. I've tried EVERYTHING. Thanks to my handy dandy mirror, I can see that I have the same issue as you had. Now to try to fix it without removing everything.... LOL. Thanks again.

[@luisochoa1300]

Thanks so much I had the same problems, i checked the plastics for the rods and sure enough it was broken. Now that it's fixed my truck idles great (2003 F150 4.2)

[@crazypilot4017]

Thanks for the upload dude. This is exactly what’s going on with my truck. I just forked out $600 bucks to have my upper/lower intake manifold gaskets, Pcv valve hose /grommet..because of a lean condition. 3 days later the light is back on! Gonna take back to the shop and have them check this

[@bradh6185]

How did it go?

[@Justme-mw4ik]

good video thanks for that however bank 1 is on the passanger side of the ford f-150 4.2 engine. bank 1 is the paqssenger side ford is different that way, important to get that right for folks. Bank 1 is the side that has #1 cylinder in thuis motor its passenger side. thought id let you know

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

i didnt know that rule of thumb🤔, guess now i do. I was just guessing at that point which one is which, was just so glad i didnt have to dig a whole lot deeper into the plenum when i found the culprit along the way~ and thanks!

[@gbrielbuis6333]

Oh man, I’m about to go look, I’ve changed the Pcv valve, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and was gearing up to remove the intake manifold. Fingers crossed it’s a simple fix

[@maxz4065]

Was this your issue? I'm throwing both error codes. Wondering if I'm having same.

[@gbrielbuis6333]

@@maxz4065 I pulled the upper air intake and changed the gaskets. It was an air leak pulling in through the old gasket. Solved the problem 👍

[@danielverduzcoarellano5808]

Thanks bud I've been trying to figure this out for almost a year.

[@jacobperez8075]

This is my final step so I can get my truck to pass smog. I’m hoping this is it. I’ve done everything you done in changing an replacing older parts.

[@dcole7092]

Good video! Does anyone have a video on how to fix this problem? I really dont understand, other than greed, why a manufacturer would use plastic on a engine.

[@strg_hirst547]

Literally everything in this video is perfect for me. I did all those things you said you did and I’m so happy there is a video with the same engine I have this is so much help thank you great video! Same exact problem and solution

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Glad it could point you the right direction

[@williamhoward7121]

Great job, this was exactly what occurred on my Ford 3.8 liter which is throwing codes 171 & 174 lean condition. Not looking forward to fixing it but will move forward on ordering the clips. Again, excellent video.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

william howard I wish there’s a method to confirm the problem before getting the parts, but good luck! Glad I can point in some sort of direction

[@SunnnyDay]

Have the same engine but in a van, the end with the linkage faces the cab, so it's right there when I remove the engine cover. Good find !!

[@GunnisonUndercover]

Check for vacuum leak where levers goes into intake. I experienced that issue with my 01 E250 4.2L

[@rogerpackham15]

How did you get the old isolator bolts out? Mine just spin.

[@nathangant7636]

Very clear video and excellent explanation of issues.

[@felipemartinez297]

Thank you man it is just the problem I have been dealing with for like 12 years, 3 master mechanics 2 different shops and 1 dealership and a lot of money, I just disassemble my self and bingo there it is. I will post the results soon.

[@maxz4065]

You have a video out by chance?

[@felipemartinez297]

@@maxz4065 no but there is a very explanatory video about it and is very helpful by someone else I don’t remember how I found it but I will look into it tonight and will sent you the link

[@jordensearcy2032]

What would happen if you was to just tie the valve rods open on both sides do you think it would run alright like that

[@franksheppard3684]

Thanks I'm having the same issue with mine and have replaced just about everything was fixing to crack it open myself.

[@coreybabcock2023]

those imrc rods go through bushings thats what the white plastic is

[@A11CiTY]

So how did u replace the plastic😂

[@darrenbeller5440]

They have upgraded lower intake gasket set it's way better than the plastic o-ring set and they called it it's m1 if I remember right definitely get rid of those plastic lower intake gaskets

[@brandonslu1]

Needed to see where those rods and plastic clips were thanks! I hope I can do that without removing the manifold. Geez!

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZLYpmWqlLeoaJY - this guy took the whole upper plenum off. he shows where the rods and plastic bushings go. Surprisingly for me i was able to do it without removing it, im a small person myself so i guess to my advantage having small hands saved me alot of time without having to remove it.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

WorldRenownedCFE no, I removed the top part of the intake to access it. It’s impossible to do it from the wheel well

[@kwg2499]

Doing mine right now. So much uncomfortable work for a POS plastic bushing. Mine is also suffering from a high Idle and lean codes. Hopefully both are from this

[@backwoodsgeorgiagirl5594]

Having same issue going to check that wire

[@frankburn6312]

Usually the seals that goes around imrc shaft (in the manifold) leak. Not available separately so you need to buy the whole lower intake ($500+)

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

you can look up the part number for the seal through Ford's service manual for these models

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

stangmaster 2 yeah my code reader is a cheapy one and it gave me O2 sensor codes instead. I didn’t find out the real problem until i started taking off stuff

[@ufartface]

just wire them open- wont hurt anything

[@frankburn6312]

@@ufartface nope. But check engine light will be on= not pass inspection.

[@frankburn6312]

@@BustedKnuclesGarage those seals aren’t available separate.

[@darrenbeller5440]

FPG MS98011T2. This is new updated set number

[@nitetraitor1]

It’s not a wire. It’s linkage for the intake manifold runner control actuator which throttles air to each bank.You got lean codes because the linkage was broken leaving the throttle for the bank of runners apparently in the open position.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Yes 👍🏼 - exactly that. I did not know what the truck’s problem before I started, so when I found out those linkage/rods were the culprit it took me awhile to formulate how to put it in words. But exactly that! Yes

[@adriancarmona1409]

Do you have any video removing the upper intake manifold

[@063085will]

Great video, i have one with lean condition, and i replaced a bunch of parts like your and it was the same issue as yours, thanks for making that video

[@Pitman556]

Can you do the irmc without taking the manifold off?

[@elijulian8528]

Bank one is passenger side bank 2 in driver side

[@markwaugh2613]

great video,I have a 08 4.2l and I'm getting the po174 now,how hard to replace imrc? you got a video on that job?

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

I don’t have a vid. This the closest vid I have to show. You may need to get those plastic pieces and intake cover bolts- they may snap when you remove them* but as far as difficulty you need to take off a few things ontop starting with the intake*

[@MrNellayort]

Good job dude.. you went through a lot to get to a loose wire conclusion. Much respect🙏👍🙏😎🧐

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

i know right? i was getting ready to pull the whole intake plenum and replace every gasket too. saved me the trouble

[@garagebandbrothers]

so did it fix your lean problem i have the same nightmare 4.2

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

yes it did, I've had the issue for awhile too~

[@garagebandbrothers]

@@BustedKnuclesGarage what is the part name you replaced

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

@@garagebandbrothers Vacuum retainer bushings - Dorman part# in the vid. desc.

[@garagebandbrothers]

@@BustedKnuclesGarage tank you sir im going to check it out see it that is my problem great advice thanks for sharing

[@walkerboysoutdoors]

Was it still able to be driven even with this mechanical problem

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Yes, Infact I drove it like that without the repair for atleast 6months til I worked on it. It’ll just drop your idle speed out of nowhere very randomly.

[@felipemartinez297]

For years dealing with that and spending thousands a 99 cent clip did it , thank you, it pass the smog check with flying colors and all the issues are resolve rattling etc. Thank you man.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Glad it pointed you the right direction👍🏼

[@MrWoahna]

Mine is doing this same thing, but only when it is cold out. I live in Cleveland, it was fine all summer, but now that it is getting colder out, I am getting lean codes once again. Thought about replacing the plenum gasket as the research that I have done makes me think that since it is an outdoor temp issue, this could be the fix I am looking for.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

/watch?v=Cauu2t_Ru24 basically this is what was happening behind that engine. i was planning to go all the way through the block and replace the head gaskets but i stopped halfway. After i crossed the lower air intake manifold and found out the butterflies on one bank doesnt open, i just followed the rods in the back and sure enough one of the linkage came off. was a crazy day.

[@WDRS79]

appreciate it. went to rock auto and got everything in the category of intake plenum and those came with it. forgot what they were and where they went. (disclaimer wasnt trying to shot guy it but where i live its cheaper to order bulk parts than buy the one that you need from local parts store in most cases)

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

I ordered mine online - 50.00 for the whole intakeplenum gaskets I ended up not using, I ended up fixing a 2.00 part lol. I had the isolator screws and plastic trims 2day shipped after I found the culprit

[@solissolis2065]

Can some one send me the part info

[@concreteart101]

It doesn't want to go back to California... smart truck

[@Redeemed427]

Thanks for this video. I bought my 2002 NEW and it has been a good truck, but man ole man, some of these components locations on the 4.2 are outrageous. I am going through the same check list that you mentioned, but I didn't know about what you just described. I will get up in there tomorrow and see if I can see that. I'll be lucky if I didn't knock that wire out changing the Spark Plug wires FORD wrapped around the back side of the motor. Did I hear you say PVC VALVES as in MORE than 1? If you have a Standard shift, you are not gonna like replacing the Slave Cylinder when it goes out...

[@samdorsey4590]

Your right about changing the slave cylinder PantyPirate!!! I've replaced my clutch slave cylinder twice on my 2003 F-150 4.2 5speed manual with 120 k mileage!! 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤨🤨🤨🤨 pulling the transmission really leaves an old 61 year old sore for days!!! Now I'm dealing with fuel problems! I replaced my electric fuel pump & fuel filter, that fixed the crank but no start problem. Then after driving it for a few days & stalled out! I had to push the reset on the fuel pump in the passenger's side kick board. Off & running fine for a few days! Then today on the interstate it quit running again!!! WTH!!! Do you think it's the fuel pump regulator????? All my fuses are fine, I never blew a fuse & and I replaced the fuel pump module in the fuse box today but still will crank but my fuel pump doesn't run!! Can you help??????????

[@samdorsey4590]

Any help would be appreciated!! I replaced my fuel pump and filter on my 2003 F-150. That fixed my crank but no start problem. Then 2 days later it stalled out on me. I then reset my fuel pump inertia switch in the passenger's side kick board. Off & running fine again for a few days till today. Stalled & quit running on the Interstate!! All my fuses are fine. Matter of fact I NEVER blew a fuse, ever! So today after it stalled & wouldn't start I replaced the fuel pump relay in the fuse box & reset the inertia switch. No luck!! Had to get towed home!! Could it be my fuel pump regulator????? Any help would be much appreciated!!!!!!

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

oh not the pcv valve itself - i meant the other end where the pcv valve hose goes, which is to the valve cover. i just replaced the grommets- the pcv valve on mine was fine. i just caught that on the vid... man...

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

@@samdorsey4590 Sam Dorsey if you think its a fuel problem- try checking the rated output pressure your new fuel pump can provide. if its weaker than the one you replaced, then i think you got the wrong fuel pump and need a much stronger one. possibly the fuel pressure regulator isnt doing its job- but id put that resort as last. no service engine lights?

[@samdorsey4590]

@@BustedKnuclesGarage thanks for your reply PocketVigor! It happened to be the PCM relay in the fuse box under the hood!! I just took a random guess because my odometer reading with the key turned on would read - - - - - - - So I figured the PCM wasn't getting a signal. So I used the trailer package relay which is the same part number & sure enough my truck started up!!!!💁‍♂️🙆‍♂️🙆‍♂️😁

[@amc8607]

Hey! Do you know what the wire looking things are called that fit into the vacuum retainers? My boyfriend just replaced the gaskets on his 03 F150 because the shop told him that is what was wrong but when he got everything apart, one of the wire things was missing (which after watching your video could easily of been the issue all along).. We need to order this part and Im not sure exactly what to search for. Thanks for your help n advance!

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Sadly I couldn’t find those rods online either- unless you buy a new “IMRC Valve” or go to a junkyard and hope they’re still there. That’s what I’d do. But check if the rods aren’t just sittin below the controller before he decides to buy anything

[@amc8607]

@@BustedKnuclesGarage Okay, thanks so much for your quick response!! I greatly appreciate your help :)

[@MakzFishin]

I tore a part the top of my intake manifold for same reason as this guy, “too lean” code. And just like your boyfriend… my IMRC was missing an arm and the other was not even attached. I bit the bullet and forked over nearly 300 for a new one at OReilly… that was actually the easy part. The hard part was laying over the engine (I got smart and used a camping pad to cushion myself and protect engine parts) to take out the three bolts holding old one, wiggle that sucker out then replace with new one. Getting new little bushings into those square holes was not any fun and contorting my wrists/arms to get the bolts tightened left me with some nice scrapes… truck is running great now though!

[@roythornton919]

good to know but the parts or not wire they are call rods .

[@Tommydco]

thanks for the Quality editing before uploading!

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

lol sorry- uploaded straight up from my Note8. will do next time~ my bad 70% of the vid is just me running my mouth and 30% demo lmfaoooooo

[@TheGrimmis420]

I like your video would have been a big help 2 years ago those things had me crazy prior to those two years took me a while to notice that was the problem and big headache $10 dollar nylon bushings what a pain. Anyway nice video at the time could not find anything I looked everywhere for info nothing until a friend found the problem.

[@jvst20051]

I just got a lean code p0174 and keep up with everything but I never knew about this ill check it out 2003 f150 4.2l v6

[@maxz4065]

Lol, I'm here in 2024 suffering the same code... Did you confirm if it was the white grommets ?

[@solissolis2065]

How can I order the white plastic?

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Go on Amazon and type “Dorman 47099 vacuum retainer bushing” I don’t know what happened to the link put on the vid. Desc...

[@justins8089]

Awesome video man!!! Gotta love KZbin university!!

[@garagebandbrothers]

hey my left one was just laying their thanks for the video you ever have the p0113 code?

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

its always the left one causing trouble, i suggest holding it with a piece of thin wire after the plastic bushing part. and no i have never gotten that code, looks like a sensor problem with the intake. either you replace it or clean it from the sounds of it

[@garagebandbrothers]

@@BustedKnuclesGarage its a open circuit code im still trying to find it

[@jamesmccorkle8448]

How do you fix it? Remove the lower manifold?

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

James McCorkle you’re gonna have to feel around it while putting the plastic bushings on- and then reconnect the rods. What I did is just use a double sided tape and taped one end on my finger and the other side the bushing. And I just did a lot of guessing

[@kentbeck2904]

This video is a huge help! Good job!

[@rolandogarciasdo]

You have it wrong that's your bank 1 is the one loose ..

[@coreybabcock2023]

bank 1 is passenger side on fords and 2 is driver side glad i dont have that exact engine my 98 ford E250 has the 4.2 l v6 but its not built like that

[@dakotabowes2387]

I always see your comments over on ford boss lol howdy👋

[@coreybabcock2023]

@@dakotabowes2387 hello

[@watertech011]

I have a 1999 E-150 van with the same problem. Access is pretty easy compared to an F-150. Ford did a major disservice to anyone who ever had to repair this part. That was a terribly designed component of a marginally well designed engine. That’s my excuse among others for mainly driving Chevrolet.

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

just a tip while yours is still running - if your starter ever sounds like it’s just free wheeling on you after it tries to engage the flywheel, don’t keep cranking it like i did. it’s hydrolocked at it’ll bend your rods 😑 happened to me last winter, the intake manifold gasket leaked coolant into the chambers 😑

[@ipman4715]

1 and 2 is vacuum leak

[@hankwilliams2761]

Thank you.

[@jesusmorales9122]

Thank compa jrasias👍

[@speedmon6581]

Big mistake to not replace your lower intake man. gaskets. Also check the idle air rubber elbow near front of engine

[@BustedKnuclesGarage]

Good thing I didn’t - I stopped right then and there when I figured out my real problem 😂 but why tho - would it be more tideous?

[@speedmon6581]

Oh yes, the older leaker, the more pain to clean and have work right

[@dj.stevevicious1380]

I like this guy made my day! ONE.THOU.WOW #1000

[@c14back2nitrogen9]

Nice one sr

[@josephineddddd]

Thank you

[@yogie3235]

Good to know thank's bro

[@13starflag4life5]

When ur under the hood good luck. If ur able to visualize what u saw with ur engine in the truck. Good luck getting there. FORD Fix or repair daily. Found on roadside daily. They make em so they break em. Stay strong home mechanics!

[@paulbusalacchi2970]

Has anyone experienced codes P0172 - SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 1 and code P0174 - SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 2 at the same time?

[@jeremymaxwell8466]

thank you