2001 F150 4.2l Intake control runner replacement part 2

below is link part 3
• 2001 F150 4.2l Intake ...
Disclaimer : I'm not certify Mechanic: Just try to share some knowledge as best i can. Not responsibility for any Damages caused by the use of this information or ANY OTHER CAUSE WHATSOEVER.

[@timwray9171]

Nice Video! Just completed the job. went through a whole pack of bushings and had to go get more dropped 4 broke a tab of 4 as I pressed them in. Dealer gets 6 hrs for this nightmare job. OK here the secret. dont be afraid to pull the fuel rail on left side, I tried for couple hrs, many bushings. Just jiggle it and lift it up. I only removed last one and held rail up with a zip tie. Now you can use your left hand. Im right handed but couldnt turn the bushing as I tried to get it in. Using left hand on left buttterfly valve gently push in bushing stoping before it goes in all the way. Look with light and mirror to make sure you see all tab ends in the square hole. Pushing it in with out checking for all 4 tabs is how I broke 3 bushings. think I could do it again with 2 bushings and 1 hour start to finish. DIFFICULTY....1-10, 8.7

[@Msimms325]

The lower portion of the upper intake HAS 8 isolator bolts, not 7. They've also been revised to green rubber instead of black. Cheers

[@Ducklesworth]

looks like im headed to the yunk yard

[@kman2895]

Thanks for the video! Have a 2003 f150 4.2L with 308K and running strong but a 1518 code. Minute 6:35 of this video will help me orient myself without taking anything off. Not sure if the linkage is disconnected yet or if it's possible to reconnect it without a teardown, going to try. Using a Klein Boroscope , $39 Home depot, to see what's up back there and your video will be an excellent guide, so thanks for making it..

[@gabenoria7109]

Once again, I really appreciate people trying to help, but no because you know, it make you a teacher, it's no an offense, but very few videos shows the really important things, once again thank you for trying,

[@1976Datsun]

At about 3:15 you can see that the gaskets around the ports aren't sealing well. The area where the gasket sits is dirty and oily, there should be a clean ring there. Probably because the isolator bolts grommets have hardened. That will give you lean codes (air leaks). I flipped through the videos that follow this one but don't see that you replaced the bolts or the grommets. So you might have a leak again in the future. The broken IMRC bushings will give you lean codes also. But the poor seal at your intake manifold is more likely.

[@Silverado2002C1]

Thanks for the input i did replace them just recently im currently facing another vacuum leak.

[@jamesrichardson771]

Oh man💥 you're amazing' - a real glutton for punishment ain't cha 🛠

[@DaIGGS]

What the rod that's connected to little white bushings you are pointing at 6:06 called? On my truck the white bushings broke and one of the rods is long gone

[@Silverado2002C1]

Intake Manifold Runner control Linkages, This site has them www.fordgenuineautoparts.com/oem-parts/ford-control-assembly-engine-air-shut-ef2z9j559d?c=az0x&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmcWDBhCOARIsALgJ2QceZ-Do3EQFwgE3A0okHqrZYZa8T70ITxdXWYOpwpLlYYSFjeyVO30aAhsZEALw_wcB Or can get them at a junkyard since they are metal rods, used ones are fine.

[@DaIGGS]

@@Silverado2002C1 awesome! Life saver

[@johnprice9456]

Thank you sir! Spot on!

[@13starflag4life5]

Keep trying. Fuck what they heard. Thank you

[@brandondrayton1673]

you didn't show how you got tha back screws thats what i wanted to see👎🏾👎🏾👎🏾

[@Silverado2002C1]

Did you see part 3 video it in the link? I mentioned you have to feel them out as well.