2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade/ Yukon/ Tahoe Starter Replacement

This is 2003-2006 Cadillac escalade /Yukon/ Tahoe starter replacement video. In this video, I will be replacing the starter on a 2004 Escalade.
🛒PARTS LIST:
▪️ Starter motor: amzn.to/3HTWjY4
🛒TOOLS NEEDED:
▪️ Electric ratchet: amzn.to/3Sw4W12
▪️ Flashlight: amzn.to/48OaGJi
▪️ Flex head ratchet: amzn.to/47PZwm7
▪️ Impact socket set: amzn.to/3Hy3fKi
▪️ Impact wrench: amzn.to/3Sfmiht
▪️ Pick set: amzn.to/3u9AdNZ
▪️ Screwdriver set: amzn.to/4b6BZ39
▪️ Socket and wrench set: amzn.to/4b6K8ob
▪️ Torque wrench 1/2: amzn.to/3AgaOB2
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🔺DISCLAIMER
The information provided by Valley Mobile Automotive (“we,” “us” or “our”) on this video is for general informational purposes and entertainment only and does not replace professional advice.
All information is provided in good faith; however, we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of any information on the video.
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[@DobraLLC]

I just replaced my starter on a 2004 w 6.0L Vortec. I watched your video and struggled for about an hour trying to get it out. There was no room to even remove the plastic cover part. For anyone watching this. After removing the (2) 13mm bolts, remove the heat shield and then remove the power cable “before” trying to wiggle it out. Mine was 13mm using the long extension with the wobble end. Once I got the power cable off it was easy to wiggle it out. I removed the 8mm S cable as it came down & out. I did not need to remove the oil dipstick or loosen those bolts that the manual shows to remove. I bought a CarQuest 6492SN replacement from Advance Auto with $40 off by doing it with the app. It came with a limited lifetime warranty (only 1 replacement). It was an exact match for the OEM.

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Thanks for the tips 👍

[@tansurrent8953]

Thanks for the video! I was able to replace my original starter on a 2004 Escalade 6.0l. I had a bunch of trouble getting it out and installing the new one. For no-start troubleshooting reference, for a month or two, the car had weak starts, and sometimes would only click once and not start. When I removed the relay, there was no sound at all when I turned the ignition. When I changed relays, and bought a new relay, I still had the single click and no start. I also checked the battery and cleaned the terminals and that wasn't the problem either. A mechanic did try smacking the starter and it did eventually start as an emergency measure. Biggest tip is to remove the cables before removing, or installing a starter, since the power cable is 1cm thick, stiff, and prevented me from maneuvering the starter in place. Other tips I would say are, use a headlamp, flashlight, and third magnetic light. Used a breaker bar and 10 inch extension to get the 13mm bolts loose, that hold the starter to the car. It was pretty stuck on there. Disconnect the signal cable (8mm nut) and power cable (14mm) using a ¼ inch drive ratchet, or any short 6 inch long or so wrench. I didn't lift the car, didn't remove the wheel well cover or wheel, and didn't remove the dipstick. I did disconnect the oil sensor - the black tab is facing the front of the car, don't remove the blue tab, which holds the wire to the connector. The black tab is what holds the connector to the sensor. The starter is on the passenger side of the car, next to the transmission and flywheel. It's basically right behind the front passenger side wheel. When the starter is still in its place inside the car, I am able to have my hand access the part of the starter with the electrical connectors two ways - from the top through the passenger side, and beside the starter, also from the passenger side. It's up to you whether you want to remove the nuts that hold the cables in the confined space, or try to pull the starter out and then remove the cables. Things that get in the way are the front bracket 21mm nut, this protrusion on the housing that has a O shape, a ton of transmission coolant lines (I think). It's hard to tell what the starter gets caught on, so feeling around the starter, when I move it, helps me to tell what collides with it. I didn't want to break wires or coolant lines, so I didn't shove all too hard. I retaped some wires too. When I was trying to remove the old 14mm nut from the power terminal of the old starter, the housing broke off, so I had to carefully saw off the stud and nut and residual broken copper. . . It cut better opposite to the teeth since copper is grabby (the slope side of the triangle, as opposed to the sharp side). Then I maneuvered the new starter in place, without attaching cables. But advantages are, way easier starter install, no finagling with cables, no worrying about orientation. Disadvantage is having to attach the cable connectors and washers and nuts by feel, in a smaller space. But after trying the opposite way for way way way too long (that most videos show, and the service manual says, attach cable first), I finally actually got the starter in place with the transmission cover. The biggest difficulty in this method is having to thread on the 14mm power cable nut with one hand basically. And not dropping the crush washers. I set up some towels so the nut wouldn't bounce and roll, I had dropped it 4 times. Luckily, the old starter has extra nuts that should fit, so that helped peace of mind. The starter is mostly level to the ground, so the washers and nuts don't slip off too much. I used a 8mm wrench instead of a socket and ratchet. Attach the heat shield before bolting the starter to the car, it gives a little more clearance. The open side of the shield faces the wires. Tighten everything up, don't overtighten the plastic transmission cover, and that's it. Wear glasses and watch out for falling dirt lol, experienced that too, don't drop flashlights on yourself like me at first, get a magnetic light. Seriously though, it took me hours and hours and even more hours including breaks, over a couple days. Almost everything I read said to attach cables first. Chilton manual, eautorepair via Mitchell 1, almost all KZbin videos. It sucked. I was like, physically, the starter cannot fit, I didn't know if a mechanic would be able to do it (but they probably would, lol), and I was so confused because I was able to take the old one out. Hope this helps someone! Anyone, lol. Thanks again Valley Mobile Automotive for the video reference! -Dean

[@olandocooperu7972]

I took my starter out through the wheel well over the frame

[@sxs4l245]

Word up. Thanks for the vid.

[@stru8812]

Thanks, it helped do my diy.

[@bryannavarrete9737]

What is the cable thru the wheel well at 2:50 time stamp and is it important to be connected someone replaced my motor it ran for a while but it died havent been able to start and thats the only other cable i dont have connect cuz they never plugged it in

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

I'm not 100% sure if this is the one you're talking about but there is a wheel speed sensor for the abs that goes through the wheel well. But that shouldn't prevent it from starting.

[@DobraLLC]

How do you know if the starter is bad? I have a 2004 Escalade with a 6.0L and it won’t start. I only hear a click when I turn the key. I tested the battery and it said Good & Recharge and only had SOC 20%. I charged it to SOC 100% and still only get a click.

[@Lissy1198]

definitely sounds like the starter

[@ecgodsmack86]

So what was it it the starter even trying to engage ?

[@DobraLLC]

@@ecgodsmack86 No, it only made a click sound somewhere. I replaced the starter and it works great now.

[@obslife1985]

My bolts are the same size as yours 13mm but u watch other videos of the starter removal and they are 14mm. Are they not all the same starters or bolt sizes

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Yeah not sure, it may depend on where the vehicle was assembled?

[@obslife1985]

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive maybe but they should all be interchangeable hopefully

[@alexbee777]

V8 V8 V8 🦾🦾🦾❤‍🔥❤‍🔥❤‍🔥😎😎😎😇😇😇