2004 EZGO TXT PDS Golf Cart Testing a shunt wound and series wound motor

[@btomas225]

Umm, a series wound motor will use the prefix "S1 and S2" (series field windings) and a shunt motor uses "F1 and F2".

[@johndrew4689]

Very helpful. Thanks for posting. Thought I had a dead motor and an expensive repair. But I just didn't connect it properly. Motor works !!!

[@armyleegreen]

Awesome glad my video provided you with some help.

[@lewistroutman2391]

Thanks video. Took motor apart , brushes were like new. No grounds found, but would not test when hooking up to 12volts as per other videos with A & S labels. So it seems the key here is as to what type of labels are on the motor. Mine has the F designation s! Thanks again!

[@Macroscience]

Fantastic. I almost burned my motor first trying to guess how to run it. Then after looking at video is works like a dream. Thanks a lot. Dont try like me first to run without those cross cables. I did mistake by connecting only A1 and A2 and blow my power supply.

[@brettjamie]

Hello there I hope you are online now, can I get some help I am struggling with a golf cart motor

[@DjDuilioPV]

thank you for your nice helping video .

[@silversailor5012]

My name is Randy also and I have a question. I have an older 36 volt😮 TXT and series type the motor quit and fed back positive charge from M1 terminal to the controller and fried it. Got the motor turning using the series ok up you showed but it still feeds back positive from the A1. I can get a used s unt still motor to replace it so is this possible and ow does it change the connections between the forward reverse switch and the motor. Thanks and tis vid was great to explain the motor function

[@jskibbs]

This is great! We tested the Shunt Series motor on a 2007 Club Car Transporter 6. Success!! Thanks for the info.

[@daleb2786]

Great video but i am confused, you state to connect A1 to F1 and A2 to F2 then run your jumper cables from F1 and F2 to the battery. in your video you have the positive jumper cable hooked up to A1 and your negative cable hooked up to F2

[@brandonwebb2439]

It is still hooked to f1 and f2 as they are linked by the jumper wire, a1 f2, f1 a2 it still ends up F1 and F2 because the linking cable

[@GetRealBaby]

This guy knows nothing about checking a cart motor. I suggest you visit a professional, someone who works on carts for a living, and listen to him/her, otherwise you could toast your motor.

[@ckacka2]

Thank you for the video!!!! I tried that and only one, driver side wheel is turning. Do you know if its normal? Thanks again. Im in a same boat with this but mine is 1996

[@DayClanTribe]

I think that's fine and only because of limited slip differential. If you stop the one tire from turning the other should go. Seems your motor is good.

[@armyleegreen]

@@DayClanTribe Thanks for responding as somehow I have missed some of the comments being posted

[@RandyPennington-vi8xm]

I have a 1987 club cart 36v. It has the 5 solenoids. They are all clicking and closing. I have checked each one with a meter with the plate that connects them all removed. It does not have the v glide. Has the micro switches in pedal assembly. I tested the motor with 12v. It ran. But when I push the petal all solenoids click and close but the cart does not move. All solenoids are getting 36v except the first one closest to drivers side. It’s only getting 18v on the the pole. It’s getting the 36v to the coil.

[@joewarren3n1]

How do you test a controller to see if it is working, thank you

[@ryans5565]

So if you arent sure which type you have just try both of the ways you showed with only 12 volts? Wont hurt anything?

[@richardbertrand2770]

Good video thanks

[@Dabangg-Elecronics]

Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request

[@armyleegreen]

I greatly appreciate your comment and hope someone else reading these comments will be able to assist you. I am not sure of what would correct your issue and wish you the best of luck in finding a resolution

[@chadthibodeaux8533]

Hey where's the next video, you did a good job on this one

[@teedee9903]

Great video

[@tonythespeedy]

You're awesome 👍

[@armyleegreen]

Thank you very much I’m glad you enjoyed the video

[@progressivestudios01]

thank you for the video it really help me alot

[@armyleegreen]

Glad it was useful :)

[@Kingburbah]

I used to 12v 24volts and drove it

[@gabegutierrez3248]

So my configuration is a bit different. More like F1 F2 A2 A1 Should I still wire it using your concept matching up the same way or would it change ?

[@armyleegreen]

Sorry its taken me so long to respond, I'm no professional by no means just trying to pass along as much knowledge as I can that I've figured out. as for you question I would stick to the labeling not so much the configuration. if that makes any sense.

[@brettjamie]

Hello Mr rusty randy can I get in touch with you

[@kashifkashif5743]

Thanks

[@armyleegreen]

no problem I definitely hope my video helped

[@donaldwelton7581]

Repair of 48 volt 2019 Bintelli

[@RandyPennington-vi8xm]

Can you help me?

[@armyleegreen]

Sorry for such a delayed response. I would recommend starting with removing each connection one by one and cleaning each terminal connection and see if that resolves the issue

[@jsyount]

Golf Cart Shunt motor

[@silversailor5012]

That's the A1 not M2

[@skullybiker]

mine is a s1 a1 s2 a2 help

[@armyleegreen]

sorry its taken so long to respond as I didnt see your comment until now. I'm not certain but i would be interested in what you have figured out!

[@cassandrajackson3330]

Have you figured anything out with this? I’m in the same boat s1 a1 s2 a 2

[@bfxp63]

if you still need help try this....kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYSmp2Oon5eoj9U... he also other D/C motor videos i.e shunt, compound e.t.c.

[@MyNeowolf]

s is for stater and a is armature probably series wound

[@chicsipes7648]

No