2006 CHEVY TAHOE REAR BRAKE LINE REPL. PART1

[@zenfishbike]

Great tips for this job. I did the body raise method on a 2002 Avalanche however the emergency brake cable at the front left wheel well restricted the body raise. I was able to place a 7/8 spacer (3/4 ply + 1/8 hardboard) at the 2nd from rear body mount and a 3/8 ply sandwiched between 2 thin metal shims (for strength) at the 2nd from front body mount. This was enough to easily remove and install the rear line without having to cut the "hook" off at the front end of the line. Had a leak at the rear line fitting at the ABS unit, very tough to access and solve. Solution was to bend the line as needed to ensure enters the unit absolutely straight. Handy to have a 9/16 stubby (or cut off a regular length wrench) and a 9/16 flex head flare nut wrench. Then to gain that very last angle to get the wrench on the fitting loosen all 3 ABS unit mounting bolts to the point of almost removing them. Now you can shift the unit around enough to get the flex head flare nut wrench to capture the fitting. Oh, and you also have to remove the fitting on the line below this one and slide it up out of the way and/or even pull that line out of the unit to allow enough room to be able to tighten the rear line fitting above it.

[@ddoperations2768]

I just cut the line and pulled it out the rear. Putting in the new stainless line was a pain but it only took 10 minutes. I fished it down and had to crawl under truck and pull it along the frame.

[@MostLuckiest]

Were you able to get them back into the supports/ mounts or just leave them hanging ?

[@mijohnst]

Thank you very much for taking the time to put this together. I wish I had seen it before I ordered the wrong lines. I thought all Tahoes had Active Break Control, and therefore the lines were all the same. Wrong! lol

[@scottbruening3171]

Great info. Had the rear lines on mine blow. Followed this procedure and made it a breeze! Thanks for the help. FYI - I didn’t want to do them myself as it was snowing, cold, and crappy. I had dropped it off at the local Firestone and they had originally quoted me 300-500 and I though, not too bad. Guy calls me next day and said $1200 just to do the lines not to mention all the other shit they said they’d need to replace. I understood they just didn’t want to do the job and put an outrageous price tag on it.

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Thank you for the response. This is why I made the videos.

[@scottbruening3171]

A Mechanic / Firefighter and his Rott! How did you figure on lifting the body off the frame like that?

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

I have 3 videos on the rear brake line REPLACEMENT. I cover that in them.

[@srv442]

My 2001 Yukon blew two lines and I watched at least 30 videos. I saw yours and thought it was brilliant. I also did not want to drop the gas tank and still not have much room on top of the frame. I bought the Dorman seven piece kit in stainless steel. Went in just fine with some tweaking and had so much room to access all the clips. Thank you, thank you for this video!!

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Your welcome, this is why I made the videos. All the other videos want you to drop the tank. Glad its helpful

[@nickajk1]

I had a blowout just watching this video preparing for this tremendous task but it was a different type of blowout

[@thelizardking8525]

your rockers still look good for being a Midwest truck!

[@whowho7969]

I gotta do this to mine . Brakes went out a few miles from home I made it back home thankfully.

[@youngbuck007]

Great video and tips! My luck must just not be falling my way on this one. I removed all 6 body mount bolts on the driver side and well loosened the 6 on the passenger side, but when I lift up under the running board the frame still lifts with the body. I don't even feel like mine is all that rusty compared to many I've seen in some of these other videos LOL!

[@tenspeed7711]

Thanks for the help man! Just got my mom's truck back on the road!

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Thank you and your welcome. This is why I took the time to record the work . I'm glad it worked for you.

[@DM-vl6kl]

@@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910 Did u have to disconnect the emergency brake cable to jack the body up?

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

No I did not. I only lifted the body a couple inches. Enough to get the clips undone and see the brake lines

[@DM-vl6kl]

@@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910 Thanks

[@truongusausa7200]

Thanks sir for the video, it help me a lot on my 05 z71

[@userinpa1615]

So I have the same issue with my 06 Yukon which is how your video was stumbled upon, So I want to say thanks for taking the time for the video. But also love that your Rotti came to help you with the job 😃 I have one of those also!!! 😊

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Thank you very much. I love Rottweilers

[@userinpa1615]

@@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910 trust me so do I I lost my female 2 years ago & my son seen how upset I was & thought it was a good idea that I got another ( even though I already had & still have a golden retriever ) So I now have a male Rottweiler

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

I'm on my 3rd Rottie. Loyal dogs

[@userinpa1615]

You have that right very loyal

[@johnlizzi9887]

Hello, getting ready to do this job. When you lifted the body did you take all the body bolts out or just the drivers side? Emergency cable or fuel filler need removed? Ty

[@2Jeezuzisreal]

Great video thanks. Very needed ideas. I used copper to make the bends easier. I used the old fittings. Also I didn't follow any of the original factory connections. There was a lawsuit against general motors for Rusty brake line. You would think brakes would be the first on the list for safety. GM was number one in the world until their bankruptcy in 2008 they are an embarrassment with all their pathetic excuses. The new CEO woman finally said she would take responsibility for the key switch fail that killed many people and injured many people and thousands of accidents. Then in her second breath of air she says oh but we're not going to cover any claims before 2008 because we filed bankruptcy and we have a legal right to do that. What a piece of puke. in 1998 GM made an electric car, EV1 , about 1200 of them. They leased them to Hollywood people and a few years later they decided to recall all of them and pile them up they called the police to guard the area and then they crushed all of them except for maybe about three or four they gave to universities and Smithsonian. Have you ever heard of the NUMMI plant in CA. It was a joint venture factory between Toyota and GM to build cars but since GM could not build decent cars because all the workers were drunk all the time and smoking weed they had Toyota build their best cars. It ended in about 2008 GM is a new kind of sick people that are irresponsible and they took the bailout in 2008 just absolutely pathetic.

[@KmanJeeper]

Did you have to loosen or remove the body mount bolts on the passenger side too? I have all 6 out on the drivers side but when I jack the body the frame is lifting with it.

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Yes ,I loosened the passenger side but did not take them out. I did not want to have the body move.

[@screamingvteccc]

Yes drop the fuel tank if your breaks are rusted out like that wait till you see your fuel pump it will be rusted out as well replace it when you do you break lines

[@charlesphipps7593]

Do you take the body mount bolts out before or after you put the tahoe on the jack stands

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Only remove the drivers side. All of them. Loosen the passenger side. Either way on or off stands . It needs to be stable on the stands.

[@soup_moon0368]

What are the locations of the bushings? I can only find five...

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Bushings for the body mounts ?

[@soup_moon0368]

@@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910 yeah me and my dad found the bushing all the way in the back and three behind the front wheel.

[@soup_moon0368]

We also got the one near the radiator

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

Good job,

[@soup_moon0368]

@@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910 we still cannot find the 6th one

[@angelloya6035]

Amazon $63.00 brake line kit

[@lizard944]

I just tore into this about an hour ago. Are the nuts on the end of the body mount bolts supposed to be captive nuts that are welded into the frame? If so, I may be screwed...lol. The mount just behind the left front tire where the ground wires are at, once loosened, I had to pull down on the bolt by hand while unscrewing it in order to get it to separate from the nut. I tried to screw it back in but it seems like the nut has been pushed aside. Is this the one you're referring to as the "through bolt?" I removed the next mount bolt going towards the rear and it came out fine leaving behind the nut. The next mount going toward the back acted the same as the front one but I didn't fully remove the bolt for fear that I broke a captive nut free. I haven't started removing the bolt on the furthest mount to the rear yet. The bolts weren't very hard to remove but the two I'm questioning made a little snap noise when they first broke free. I removed them by hand because someone said the shop manual says not to use an impact wrench. Sorry so long. HELP!! LOL

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

I removed mine with my impact on around 100 psi. The 5 bolts from behind the front tire to the rear are all bolts that screw up into the body. The very front bolt in front of the tire is the 6th bolt. The front bolt is a thru bolt with a nut. I did not encounter any bolts froze as bad as you made yours sound. What year is your SUV and how rusty? They advise against using an impact so you dont strip the nut In the body. I assume its welded in . You may have busted the nut loose in the body hole. The bolt did not break off did it? Does the body bolts you have out have all the thread and they come to a tapered point?

[@lizard944]

Ok, I think I got it figured out. I found the front mount you spoke of under the battery. Looks easy to remove. I finally got the nut threaded onto the bolt. It seems that the nuts "float" a little inside the cavity they're in...at least that's what I think they're supposed to do, haha. When I pushed the bolt in further, it threaded fine. Going to loosen the right side body mount bolts in the morning and lift the body. I used Liquid Wrench on everything I could reach at the moment. Sorry for the drama. Stay tuned : )

[@lizard944]

Ok, all done except for the bleeding. What a pain in the pooper..lol. Did you let your ABS unit drain dry? I just couldn't get those fittings out with fluid dripping in my face so I let mine drain out. I have a Motive Pressure Bleeder but I'm wondering if I may have to bleed the master cylinder and have the ABS module activated with a bi-directional scan tool? You said you were able to bleed yours without any extra measures other than your Mity Vac tool and having your son work the brake pedal? Thanks.

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

@@lizard944 I had my son start the truck and pump the brake pedal a couple times. Then I vacuumed it and opened the bleeder. Had him pump it and then vacuumed it and then bled the bleeder . I did that until I had solid liquid and no air bubbles. I basically used the master cylinder to assist in bleeding. I also had to wait a week for parts so most of my fluid was out of the lines and the ports on the active brake control valve.

[@amechanicfirefighterandhis7910]

@@lizard944 also, my abs lights went out when I started building pressure in the system. No scan tool needed for mine .