2006 Impala SS oil pressure sensor swap

If the title wasn't a clue - we'll be replacing the oil pressure sender/sensor and the oil screen, on a 5.3L V8. This particular car has very low mileage (140K km's), and it turned out the screen was perfect. But they aren't all. For the cost, get a new one anyhow! Showed the wiring of a new pigtail, and how the wire colours do NOT always line up! Always check your original connector, and compare to the new one.
A lot of the methods shown will also apply if you have a Silverado, Sierra, Trailblazer w/V8, Pontiac GXP, or anything else with a DOD engine (which AFAIK are the only ones to use the screen).
October 4th. Just broke 1000 views!
Thanks for watching! :)

[@atlasisbestteam]

I had a message that read "low oil pressure, turn off engine" on my 2007 monte carlo ss v8. I changed the oil pressure sensor on it and the message and the check engine light went away. I appreciate you for making this video. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@DodgeSrt]

Mannn i like to here that i got the same problem

[@gabekerr13]

Helped me out! I gotta replace mine tomorrow.. Constantly chiming. Mine has 419,000km on it though... Fingers are crossed! Great car. Even better video! Thank you

[@ScottJohnson4449]

This solved my no DoD problems! thank you!

[@georgestone1282]

Thanks, I'm replacing one on my wife's SS today. Pretty good video and commentary👍

[@joshsnyder7477]

Awesome video! Was so glad this was on the top of the engine. When I measured resistance from pin to pin, the old sensor was about 20K ohms more than the new sensor on each one so maybe that fixed it. Guess we’ll see. Great job.

[@DrFiero]

Pray that you never need to do a crank position sensor. OP sensor is a cake walk by comparison. ;)

[@tyronemullins5694]

For the life of me , why in the world wouldn't you remove the plastic cover from the top of the motor.

[@beepbeepmichael]

So I’m not the only one who thought It’d be WAY easier to do that

[@gmweirdo]

I own an Impala SS too, and I'm with you on the cover.

[@Ericraymond26]

Definitely helped me out I’ve done some research and my impala ss has a long crank before it’ll start I usually have to flip the key back then try again and it’ll fire up I’ve done extensive research and everyone says that this is what’s causing it. I just picked one up today gonna be putting it on in about a half hour or so hopefully that fixes the problem.

[@DrFiero]

I wish that was the long crank solution! I’ve swapped out both cam and crank sensors as well. Still does it. It’s tough when it’s so random! I’ve had all my test gear out - can’t get it to do it. But… in a rush to get somewhere? Boom, does it. :( I want to get my pressure gauge on the rail, and have a timing light hook to a plug lead. Then just cycle it on/off like 100 times in a row to catch the failure. At least narrow it down to fuel or spark!

[@Ericraymond26]

@@DrFiero yeah mine didn’t work as well and mine is very random the only thing I can think of is maybe a faulty coil because I just did a full tune up besides the coils or maybe a fuel filter and I’ve heard a weak fuel pump could also be the problem it’s weird because it will go through a whole day absolutely perfect and I’ll run to the gas station come back outside 2 minutes later try starting it and it will just crank and crank sometimes when it catches it’ll try and start but when it does it runs like total crap back fires then when I flip the key and try starting again it’ll crank right up and run beautifully it’s definitely a head scratcher because I have no warning lights I did have a check engine light on so I tested it and it popped up as a faulty oil pressure sensor and that’s what I replaced since then it went off by itself I replaced it anyways but still cranks without start randomly

[@DrFiero]

@@Ericraymond26 - Throwing good money away on the coil aspect. The GM coils are notorious for being bullet proof. Not to mention you wouldn't have 8 simultaneous failures! :D

[@dennispuleo9575]

Thanks for a great video

[@davebond1854]

Hey great vid. My sons MC SS just threw a code showing to replace this . Did you get a code for this? And did it fix it? Thanks

[@DrFiero]

Be honest - it was SO long ago now, I don't recall if it set a code, or the DIC just said "low oil pressure - stop engine". If it had set one, it'd probably clear after a couple key cycles, then just be stuck as a history code - assuming you don't have a decent scan tool that can clear those.

[@iiamangelina1723]

Very helpful video man thanx

[@ricomps5715]

Very helpful thankyou 🙌🏽 if you have a video doing a valve cover on a ls4 v8 please put the link in the comments

[@DrFiero]

Figures - I did BOTH covers due to an oil leak, and never did a video thinking "who'd watch that?". :( Front one is insanely easy, just be VERY gentle with the plastic piping. Take the coils off as assemblies. Make sure to replace the gaskets AND the rubbers where the cover bolts go through. And really, the back one is almost as easy. Just had to wiggle it out from under the alternator. Do the front one start to finish, then you can lay over the engine without getting covered in oil.

[@2009jamrock]

Still have the car? nice color i love mine!

[@DrFiero]

Yup, still have it! I'm going to repaint it (only did some touch ups before, as well my paint skills are FAR better now) - then it'll probably go up for sale. Still only has 140K kms or so on it (about 80K miles). I have 9 cars, and I'm uhhhh... not getting any younger.

[@trapperkeeper4136]

Did your check engine light come on? Is that why you replaced it?

[@DrFiero]

Nope - the DIC actually says "Low oil pressure - Stop engine" (or wording to that effect!). Your CEL will generally only come on for emissions related malfunctions.

[@cherryeady2194]

It’s not flickering that bad

[@jamesgunner9025]

So u saying don't tighten it all the way down til you can't see the threads?

[@DrFiero]

That would probably be way too tight and you'd take a chance on stripping the threads. Thing with NPT is there's so much variability. I use one type of tape, you use another, I put 2 wraps, you put 3 (you get the idea). Plus manufacturing tolerances in making the male & female threads! There's just no need to tighten anything (that uses NPT threads) beyond a certain point. If it's not leaking it's doing its job - done. Just get the tab lined up so you can remove the connector next time, and don't loosen it after you've tightened it (it mangles the tape and might leak).

[@khristiangwin6130]

Could've taken the cover off

[@DrFiero]

Heh - yeah, not sure why I left it on. I mean, it IS so hard to grab the edges and simply lift up!!

[@tkong35]

Was wondering what size was the socket to remove the sensor??

[@DrFiero]

@1:31 ... 1-1/6" socket.

[@mikepapillo5728]

video is ok but why use a bolt ,,i used a 90 degree pick like somewat a mouth pick ,, pulled ur out done ,, why a bolt ,,

[@kennikuhlmann-clark9860]

Oh yeah, LEDs can flicker on video/movies.....

[@donramon2501]

I changed this two time already what that means

[@DrFiero]

Well, make sure the fault isn't in the connector. It could just be a cheap/bad sensor as well. I replaced this one again after shooting this as every time it got really hot (long drive) it would start randomly dropping to 0 PSI and tripping the dash warning.

[@donramon2501]

@@DrFiero thanks man