2007 Toyota Sienna Sliding Door Repair

Diagnose the sliding door not working with buttons

[@JesusGonzalez-rf4nr]

Thank you brother. I work on a body shop and had one of those was. Nothing but a pain in my . Thanks to you was able to fixed 🤲🏻

[@djames1839]

Thanks Rico - your video is still helping people out 6 years later! I fixed one door actuator on my 2005 Sienna several years ago using another video that removed the inside panel and involved clamping the window in place. Yesterday I fixed the other door using your approach. Not having to remove the panel or touch the window eliminated some of the risky/difficult steps that I previously followed. It really just left the difficult task of removing the two screws and then getting them back in again. I was able to complete the task using a phillips screwdriver, a ratcheting socket wrench with 10mm socket, 5/16" socket and phillips screwdriver head, a stubby screwdriver and a soldering iron. There are quite a few other videos/approaches out there which was a little confusing although some of the answers to the questions below helped so hoping the following may further help others (who will still need to watch your video and a video on replacing the motor) if any of these vans are still around: 1) Remove the housing around the door controls - take out two phillips screws, pry off the housing, and disconnect from the white harness 2) Remove the one screw (5/16" socket) holding the upholstered door panel and pop the panel off. I start popping it off near the door controls and worked my way around the door. It did take some force to get the first fixing to pop out. 3) Remove ALL 9 screws (10mm socket) from around the edge of the inner black panel - only the 9 screws around the edge not the ones in the middle 4) Do not remove the triangular piece of trim from the window, do not remove the two grommets and do not remove the two bolts that attach the panel to the window mechanism 5) Detach the actuator arm from the opening mechanism and disconnect the black harness from the actuator 6) Carefully ease the black panel out a little so you can get your hand in behind it 7) This step is the most difficult and requires a ton of patience and then some. Using the tool that Rico has or a ratcheting socket wrench with a phillips #2 screwdriver head behind the panel - get the screwdriver seated onto each machine screw that holds the actuator - this is done using feel as you can't pull the panel out far enough to see behind it properly. Once you have the screwdriver seated into the machine screw on the back, heat the screw (brass coloured) with a soldering iron from the front side of the panel. Keep testing whether the screw will turn - it may take 30 secs to a minute. Once it turns you can carefully unscrew it. This may take multiple attempts - I think it took me more than 10 goes until it was out far enough to unscrew with my fingers. The loctite will need reheating each time. This was not a quick process for me but by taking my time I managed to get both screws out without damaging the heads. 8) Remove the actuator unit and either replace the whole thing or replace the $5 motor (Digi-key p/n P14346-ND) inside it by removing the 3 screws to open the actuator (other videos on this step) 9) Reattach the actuator to the panel by feeding both screws through the panel from behind and lining them up with the two screw holes in the actuator. Tighten them up as much as possible by hand so that they won't fall out. I reused the screws that I had taken out. Then using a stubby (which seemed easier than the ratchet for tightening the screws), get the stubby seated into the screw head and begin to tighten. You may need to apply heat again from the front as the loctite may lock the screw up again. Getting the screws back in was much easier than taking them out. 10) To finish off reverse steps 1 to 6 and do them in reverse order. The outer door panel seems to go on easier by feeding the rear end of it in first as it needs to go under the trim at the back end of the window. The above took me longer than what some others have said, however, it didn't involve drilling anything out or cutting anything which was my preferred way of doing things.

[@dansfirechannel7353]

My friend, thanks so much for this video! I been looking for this info for a year! $15 part from RockAuto and it’s fixed!

[@jeffschwartz8900]

No for me, as I own a C.E., without motor

[@bernardvanulden4807]

Terrific explanation. I just tackled this project tonight and yeah... Those two screws are lock-tighted in like no other! The tip to heat the screws was great. I used a small butane torch and it worked for one, but not the other. Trying to be careful, I eventually melted the plastic housing on the actuator and then the nut just started spinning inside the melted actuator body. Ultimately, I took a Dremel tool with a 3" thin routing bit and just carved the screw out of the actuator body. This was actually much much easier and quicker than trying to carefully heat the bolt. Still had to buy two new M7 bolts, but better that than dealing with stripped out screws. Good luck everyone!

[@MichaelBrennan]

Great video, really detailed and visually informative, thank you.

[@brianbauer3148]

thanks for the video. I just replaced the motor inside the actuator. I was going to take the whole mounting panel out which requires disconnecting the window and ads a level of problems. my first for I had issues with the locktite. I used my stubby#2 and tried my heart gun. one nut started moving with the screw. the other stripped. I used my soldering iron on the other door and just took my time, held it to the screw with light pressure on the screw driver and both came right out. I used heat to put them back in also there is a ton of locktite). it worked great. my whole repair for both does will be less than $15 parts 😁.

[@brianbauer3148]

i super glued the nut that was sticking to the bolt, then and also heated it to melt the plastic a little. let it sit for an hour and used my soldering iron to back the screw out (it's more important in that situation to make sure the locktite get just got enough to flow). I then used my soldering iron to heat the nut and melt the plastic enough to reset the nut. so far it seems to have worked, making so I only stripped one screw out of the 4.

[@ricol7964]

Good job!

[@brianbauer3148]

finished, and it came out prefect. The screws were M6 x 25mm

[@ricol7964]

I am sure all your detailed comments will help others as well. Thank you very much Brian!

[@helderborjas1759]

Really great video you saved me lot of time and hassle since I was going to remove windows motor

[@boomullarky]

Most excellent. Thank you so very much!

[@courageousdynasty1504]

the only reason not to have the heads of the screws which hold the actuator face inside the car is to make a ball-buster to change...there is no engineering reason to have the heads on the opposite side of the panel

[@ricol7964]

Exactly! Thanks for finally saying that. Having friends on the OE side I can see they do not really think about the repair.... but the assembly and I can understand that.... so here we are...

[@italorocco3124]

Buenas noches, me gustaría saber si usted hace ese tipo de reparaciones para una Sienna 2008 que se le dañaron las 2 puertas eléctricas…

[@pobrichi]

What kind of screwdriver is that?

[@ricol7964]

It is the brand GENERAL No. 807-X. I do not remember were I got it but I have had it forever. It doesn't get used much but is handy when it is. There are also many styles of the low profile screw drivers that take the 1/4" bits like the Craftsmen 41716.

[@cssplat]

Rico, thanks for the helpful video! I'm about to start this job on my 06 Sienna. Question - which bolts did you remove/leave alone on that black panel? I've seen/read other tutorials where they're removed the whole black panel from then door. Is that unnecessary? Or can this be done without removal the panel from the door?

[@ricol7964]

I removed all of them so it was loose. From there you can work with it without removing the whole thing. Just be careful you dont pull on it hard or something will get bent or broken. Sorry for the late reply. Perhaps you already finished it.

[@_MHICKO_]

Rico L. my door would not open at all. how do I take the first 2 screws where the lock realease is located?

[@_MHICKO_]

Rico L. my door would not open at all. how do I take the first 2 screws where the lock realease is located?

[@ricol7964]

Have you tried turning off the power function?

[@cssplat]

Thanks again for the help! I started and finished the job today on my '06 Sienna Limited. Regarding the screws that hold the actuator to the panel, the first come came out with minimal trouble but the other one quickly stripped its head so I had to get a dremel to cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver. Thank the Lord it came out after that and I didn't have to grind it off completely.

[@MonthlyBoys]

On my van only the lock is not working. You have to do it manually, it does not unlock with the key fob or the unlock button on the driver side. Would I have to buy this part as well in order to make it lock and unlock electronically?

[@ricol7964]

Hello Zeneros. In your case you want to check the power door lock actuator if it is not working at all. It is located just forward of the door release actuator. It has 2 wires so put a voltmeter on the two wires and if it has power when you try to use it replace it. Don't worry about polarity if using a digital meter, it will show - or + ....you just want to see battery voltage. Test it connected and backprobe with pins. If you test it unplugged there is no load and that can throw you off if there is a wiring issue and I mean a slightly broken or corroded wire can deliver the voltage but not the current to make the part work. One clue of a wire damage issue is it appears to have a good power and ground testing it unplugged but once you connect it does not. That applies to any electrical part and then you have the fun job of tracking down the bad spot. Often its a chewed wire....Hope this helps. Just a note to everyone. Make sure the child lock did not get flipped accidentally, that can throw you off when diagnosing.

[@MonthlyBoys]

thanks I'll check it out

[@ricol7964]

No problem and let me know what you find or if you have a question. I will respond as quick as I can.

[@mmsmillermachinerysalesser4675]

Hello Rico, Thanks so much for this video. After being quoted $2,300.00 to replace motor and cable on my 2004 Sienna XLE by my local Toyota Dealer, I decided to tackle this myself. I manually pushed bottom lever more than a dozen times worked fine, then suddenly started working perfect with button switch! Cable seems fine too. However, when the door is fully opened and clicks into locked position it surges forward about a 1/4", perhaps that is the beginning of another problem?? Have you run into this issue?

[@ricol7964]

Hello. No I have not, By the bottom lever do you mean the bottom of the door?

[@NB-ky5ol]

This is exactly what’s going on with my 2006. How much did this cost the customer to get fixed?

[@hilarious_kids]

Do you have a video to fix a manual sliding door that won't open? I can't even get to the screws to open the panel around my handle😢

[@elbonk178]

My window doesn't go down far enough to expose the snap on the black trim piece....hmmm

[@frogkingcl]

The switch on the dash board does not work either. I have to take it to the shop to get the door fixed. Now its working manually. It probably will cost my 600USD plus to get the power door reinstalled. Thanks for the help everyone.

[@ricol7964]

Some customers just decide to use it manually. You are correct, they are not cheap repairs.

[@billenvia9783]

what is the dealer part number

[@frogkingcl]

How to take the plastic assembly off if the passenger door stuck closed. Can not work on the two screws of the handle. Thanks.

[@ricol7964]

Sorry it took a few days to respond. Did you get it already? If it will not open at all you do not have many options. I take it you tried the inside and outside handle? If it will not open at all you have other issues that I did not cover in this video. It will be hard to get that off without damaging the panel.

[@mtngoat14k]

You've probably solved your problem already but here is an idea for anyone else with that problem. My van has this same problem. When the sliding door button on the dash is turned on I have to hold the door handle out until it starts opening and do the same for it to close. If you switch off the sliding door button on the dash you can open it manually without trouble. I hope this works for whoever needs it.

[@ricol7964]

Thank you Chris! Good ideas and advice are always welcome.

[@2chatito]

do you have a shop where at?

[@ricol7964]

Yes, in Kalamazoo MI

[@anthony08330]

is the part you bought original toyota part? if not could u give me the part number at least?

[@ricol7964]

The Toyota part number is #85620-08061

[@anthony08330]

thank you so much...

[@jeffschwartz8900]

THIS DOESN'T APPLY TO MY Toyota Sienna C.E., as it doesn't have a motor, but i see the indentation in the panel for one ‼️ 🤣

[@RobertHarnois]

Replace door handel

[@user-jd4kp3lp9r]

Please reply back with part number .I have same problem

[@christophervazquez7269]

Wanted to see how to take the panel off! Totally skipped that part!

[@sarahward2481]

Same!!!