2008-2013 Toyota Highlander front brake pad replacement

[@TheJerandall1]

One of the more informative and helpful videos I've seen. Not a hard job but still keep making videos with this level of quality

[@starcar1980]

I have a 2008 model Highlander. Another tip, if you don’t want to hit the brake rotors with a hammer to remove them, use a 8mm x 1.25 bolt (turns with a 13 mm socket) & it’ll remove the rotor super quickly, an ABSOLUTE lifesaver!

[@LITTLEROCK2517]

Yo

[@jamestanne1971]

Good instruction! Lots of detail. Some of the steps, however, didn't make it into the video, and the wide angle headmount camera moved around a bit too much and sometimes it wasn't clear what was going on. I recommend pausing every now and then and moving in for a closer shot. Thanks for making the video - will use what I learned!

[@benbouchard7958]

Thanks Joe. Gotta do pads and rotors on the old lady's highlander tomorrow. Doesn't look too scary now that I have seen it!

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

Right on

[@jasondevenberg9492]

Oh man, my caliper came with a new bracket and I didn't realize they came apart, spent like 2 hours trying to figure out how to get those spring pins in 😂😂😂😂. Thanks for the video, big help!

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

Glad I could help! awsome to hear

[@danglingbooger3865]

Great tutorial video! My buddy and I followed it to a tee as we were not experienced in changing brakes and rotors. However we ran into one small issue but it was on a 2011 Highlander. The rotor would not come off no matter how much we hammered it. One thing that was not mentioned was there are 2 small holes on the rotor and if you tightened a 12mm screw into it, the rotor pops loose. Then again that was for a 2011.

[@Mach141]

You probably didnt even need new rotors. Famous upcharge from the shop is all that is.

[@bluegrassfan7656]

@@Mach141 I'm almost 50 years old and have replaced several sets of brake pads over the years. I have never replaced or had a rotor replaced on any vehicle. Not sure why virtually every brake pad replacement video seems to show new rotors as well. If they are grooved you can take them to a machine shop and have them turned.

[@Mach141]

@@bluegrassfan7656 This is the deal...auto mechanics used to turn the rotors at every pad replacement. This had nothing to do with rotor wear and everything to do with providing a fresh seating surface for the new pads to "mate" to. Usually rotors could be turned once or twice and then would become out of specs. (to thin) and would require replacement. What happened next (approx. 35 years ago) is the Chinese started mass producing inexpensive replacement rotors, and then mechanics would just replace them at every pad change instead of cutting the old ones. It may have even been cheaper to buy two new rotors then the cost to turn the old ones. Most garages got rid of their lathes and went to a replacement only business model. This tradition has carried over to this very day, which is why you see new rotors on every brake job. Brake jobs are also easy and very profitable for shops, all the more reason to sell you new rotors. Then there are people like you and me, who are smart enough to figure out brake rotors need neither turned or replaced, as long as they arent glazed, too thin or in any way unserviceable. We buy our $40 pads, replace them, install the same rotor we took off, and we are golden. A $40 brake job. Our vehicles stop perfectly fine. Im 56 years old, have done this on every car ive owned, which has been many. Meanwhile the average Joe gets robbed on every brake job they pay for. Ive seen one youtube mechanic say not replacing the rotors is "okay" but you wont get optimal stopping if you dont. I say bullshit, you will stop just as fast, and you will. Also do it yourselfers get "encouraged" or "up sold" at the local parts store to buy rotors, or even shopping online at rockauto, buy some pads, and rotors will be shoved down your throat. Keep fighting the good fight! Save our Rotors

[@nastysoda9212]

If I'm re-using the same rotors and they come loose while replacing the brakes, would you reccomend I take the rotors off and clean up the rust from the inside and outside? or will slapping them back in place be fine? Also each bracket had a siezed caliper slide, thanks to you I was able tog et them out, clean them up and regrease them with the proper grease.

[@perryrosales]

I was closely watching your video specially where you pushed back the caliper piston... I was told that before you do that you should have the reservoir cap off because pushing the piston back is also pushing the brake fluid back up. Is it really necessary to have the cap off?

[@wingrider6116]

The 2012 Highlander has four-wheel disc brakes. Torque specs are: Sliders - front and rear, 25 foot pounds; Bracket - front, 76 foot pounds - rear, 57 foot pounds. Lug nuts are 76 foot pounds.

[@Marc_B.]

Darn. I wish I read these torques before doing my brakes yesterday. I only torqued the front brackets to 32 ft lbs. Should I take the wheels off again, and re-torque?

[@anddtayl1]

Nice job! Cleaning the hub surface like that is something I've never thought about, and I've done lots of brake jobs for my own vehicles. Nice tip!

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

thanks, its an often overlooked step

[@chaseezra5450]

A trick: you can watch movies at Flixzone. Been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.

[@bodiemaxwell2717]

@Chase Ezra Yup, have been using Flixzone} for since december myself :)

[@georgebecht6357]

Thanks for this informative video, it was very helpful. One suggestion, using a head mounted camera makes the video hard to follow. Work on your camera skills, you have a lot to share. Please go a little slower, after all you are trying to help DIY'ers learn how to preform the task.

[@dutchmislos5467]

Hi Joe what the lug cleaner or polish you use? Is that lug stuttering?

[@marklindberg2230]

Nice vid. Aside from obvious scoring, how should I determine if my rotors (front & rear) need to be replaced? Is there a thickness spec I should measure? No symptoms of warping. No brake problems at all, except the pads are getting thin. I want to replace them before rotor damage occurs. Thanks.

[@Zachandersson]

Last comment. Thanks for the video! Completed mine today! Saved big $$

[@hly1178]

Hi Joe - Thank you for the nice video! Is it necessary or recommended to change the original roller with a brand new one even if the brake pads didn't edged into the original roller? I had seen cases where the old roller can also be cut by professional to make it smooth if edged by the brake pads.

[@jaredkrueger5541]

*”rotor”

[@CarlosSantos-hh2ci]

Nice vid man, straight to the point and covers the most important steps. Also great angle of vision 👍👍👍

[@TheDesertRat31]

is there a ballpark torque for the caliper bolts? the slide side heads wants to spin as the caliper bolts get tight.... just hold them with a vise grip or something?

[@islamicwaylive]

I have a 08 Highlander I recently changed the brakes and rotors months ago and now I have a clunk or popping sound every time I go in reverse. Not sure if it's because of after market rotors( 1a auto) or brake pads ( 1a auto) . Followed same procedure as this video

[@travioli_and_cheeze]

Did you ever solve the clunking problem? I have the same thing happening

[@islamicwaylive]

@@travioli_and_cheeze same problem exist. I'm buying stock tom o

[@thulkifl336]

Which brand of rotors did you buy? I have an 08 highlander 3.5l

[@javiervasquez8539]

Those looked like they were from O'Reilly along with the pads

[@paultkachuk8155]

I like it! No nonsense straight to the point

[@AllenPinchloaf]

Are the 2012 highlander rear brakes drum or disk?

[@thomascarey9562]

Nice video! Good shop practices. Thanks for posting.

[@kCI251]

Good video overall but why not torque the brake calipers?

[@villageidiot9867]

Unnecessary.

[@nicestyet2097]

Use the impact to what torque ashoe

[@royalassassin6133]

Ok, here I go. Wish me luck. I'll let you know if it's still drive able when I'm done.

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

jason carter you got it man!!

[@nellienewyork]

Great video. Thanks!!

[@patriciabrown4809]

I am no great mechanic, thanks for helping me learn

[@soorensuroosh]

Awesome video! thank you for the help!

[@sundukchi]

Thank you so much.. most beautiful and clear video! wow!

[@10967131096]

Thanks I'm going to use this today

[@georgebetts3953]

Awesome Job!

[@chriswest8013]

Thank you!

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

Your welcome

[@mr.martin4954]

Good video, Thanks

[@theodorekell]

Dude, where are your gloves?

[@lashasmama7866]

Thank you

[@daniel.gorini]

You missed the clips on the pads😮 it will cause clicking noises breaking in reverse.

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

@@daniel.gorini old video but good tip I had a run of these where the clips were wrong in the box and I couldn’t get them to go on with the pads from our supplier at the time I should do a updated video , good catch

[@patriciabrown4809]

at 8:40 you grease pad...i guess you mean the back not the surface of the pad

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

Timothy Dobz lol you caught that, i felt really dumb i fixed it off camera but yes lube back of pads

[@martincastaneda5495]

Nice video Joe thanks

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

thanks for watching, glad you liked it!

[@kapenakanaiaupuni5816]

You cant see how you install the small metal brackets and the metal sensor.infact the video is useless if you cant see how it goes in

[@ps3boss98]

Thanks

[@jaredkrueger5541]

“Clean all the grease off your rotor, then go ahead and use your greasy hands to pick up your rotor.”

[@JoeTheAutoGuy]

And spray and wipe when your done sir lol

[@scrubbymcgee2]

@@JoeTheAutoGuy Yeah, I know -- I was just teasin' ya. Good video -- thanks for it, much appreciated.

[@ike7539]

I got dizzy, horrible video 👎