Toyota Highlander Control Arm Replacement

[@bdy_ster]

Thanks for the video - it helped a lot to get a walk-thru on what I was getting into when replacing both control arms and CV axles to replace bushings and boots. I confirm that don't need to unbolt the subframe, but other engine mounts, especially the front, is the crucial step. Definitely cannot remove the side mounts blocking the control arm bolts w/o unbolting nearly all of the other engine mounts. On my 2015 Highlander, I also had some big hunk of aluminum bolted under the battery tray which limited how far I could jack up the engine on the driver side.

[@rutterrealtygc]

Glad it helped!! Labor intensive for sure!

[@SeshMurthy]

This was the only video about the 2013 highlander that did not try to skate around the issues. Thank you I do not believe that it is necessary to lower the subframe. That did not help one iota. Removing the front motor mount bolts was the key. (see around 6:30) It provided enough clearance to remove the engine mount completely. Thanks again

[@rutterrealtygc]

You’re welcome, yes loosening the subframe didn’t really help me either

[@chuckalucktoo5492]

Correct.

[@chuckalucktoo5492]

If you remove the dogbone mount on top and loosen the front bolt engine mount, you will have plenty of clearance. Done it dozens of times.

[@rutterrealtygc]

Yeah, the subframe portion doesn't really do anything.

[@Eric-yd1lr]

What if i dont have a torque wrench can i just to it till it really tight?

[@rutterrealtygc]

If your are going to do work like this, I’d get a torque wrench. Consider it a “free” tool with the money you’re saving from doing it yourself!👍😊

[@israelquijano2161]

did you remove the axle on the passenger side?

[@rutterrealtygc]

No. The only reason I removed the axle on the driver side was because the boot was torn.👍

[@azamatbezhan1653]

Is it possible to last 200 000 kilometres until swap lower arm

[@nursegilbey]

you should inspect the rubber bushings to determine that

[@rutterrealtygc]

I guess it depends on the vehicle and the way it has been used. Mine lasted over 200000 kilometers.

[@rutterrealtygc]

True that!

[@jakechef994]

I've worked on these control arms on Toyota Highlanders several times and I always just mill a small 1/4 inch piece of aluminum from the driver's side where the engine mounts to the engine mount with a dremel tool/carbide burr so you can slip the top bolt out, u wont weaken the engine mount point all it's super thick aluminum, I've never had to unbolt the subframe of the car to do front ball joints that seems like alot of extra work to me good vid tho not alot of vids on this out there 👍

[@rutterrealtygc]

👍

[@RSTEM]

U should make a vid explaining

[@iansanderson]

This is horrible advice. Cutting the mounting boss is completely unnecessary.

[@iansanderson]

I would never use any aftermarket parts as done here. Your original parts lasted almost 200,000mi. Aftermarket parts will last maybe 20-30K if you’re lucky. Always use genuine parts on a job like this. You should not turn the bolts going through the strut clevis, only the nuts. Finally, wheel nut torque is 103Nm (76lb-ft), not 100lb-ft.

[@rutterrealtygc]

Thanks for the comment.👍