2008 F350 6.4L MAP Sensor

[@Marty-F]

Saw your average MPG at 8.5. My 2010 SRW F350 was the same way. Decided to delete my truck back last year. My average MPG went from 8.5 up to 21.5 MPG. That's average running around town mileage. On a trip, if I fill up and hit the interstate, and run it at 70-75 mph til I need fuel again, my mileage will creep up to better than 23 MPG. Well done video here sir.

[@larrydoesschtuff]

@@Marty-F yes.. huge difference. This one usually had a load on it.. trailer, tractor/Excavator ... plowing. I think I went up to around 14 but not much more than that over the long average

[@trickortrauma6149]

Used your video to clean mine today. Very helpful. Thanks.

[@larrydoesschtuff]

@trickortrauma6149 fantastic! Be careful snugging it down.. there isn't much wall of thread in the aluminum. good luck!

[@CRAZY_VIDS07]

I do a lot of towing and I'm getting 11.7 mpg you might want to check your mpg seems bad

[@larrydoesschtuff]

@CRAZY_VIDS07 that MAP sensor being clogged will cause a loss of 1-2mpg. If I am pulling the excavator and loaded with tools I will get close to 10. We are in mountainous terrain. The only time I get 11-12 mpg is on the interstate, not pulling machines.

[@Zanehoward88]

Can I get your opinion on two things 1. Does it seem to get better fuel mileage after cleaning the MAP? 2. I had to replace both alternators months back and now my battery light always stays on in the dash. I am reading 14v on the output of the alternators and yet that light stays on. From what ive read it should shut off when it gets a 14v reading. DO you know how i could track down the problem?

[@larrydoesschtuff]

1. MAP sensor will certainly affect mpg. Mine went up about 1.5mpg after cleaning this. I also like to clean the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor right behind it to. I have been a professional firefighter for 35 years.... fuel, heat, oxygen.... any sensor like these will cause the computer to adjust something else for combustion and will never be optimal performance. 2. Assuming you have the dual batteries.... 2A- did you replace both of them?... run a full load test on them?.. CCAs, volts, load, % capacity remaining... Batteries and alternators have such a relationship. 2B - voltage test at as many locations possible... Alt, both batteries AND the other ends of the cables, such as down at the starter. Internal corrosion in a cable could cause a voltage drop by the time it gets to the other end. 2C- Have you ran Ford KOER (Key On Engine Running) tests? Being able to see a live voltage reading during the alternator test will tell you what the computer is reading.... not what is at the alternator or battery.... and the computer is what is sending the battery light. 2D- Clean every dang connection you can find. I hope something in there helps.... If I think of something else I'll come back here and repost. keep us posted on what you find!

[@larrydoesschtuff]

PS.... when you said "now" my battery light stays on.... how long after the installation?... any other unique events around the same time?

[@Zanehoward88]

@@larrydoesschtuff thanks Larry! I will try everything you suggested. It drives me crazy that it’s on

[@Zanehoward88]

@@larrydoesschtuff no, one of the two alternators went bad causing the light to come on. I changed them both while I had it apart since it’s such a job to do the bottom one. It has been on since.

[@larrydoesschtuff]

@@Zanehoward88 just checking in on you... Any progress, new info?

[@michaelhernandez1127]

Tengo una 6.4 2008 le remplase la bomba de baja y alta presion y continua igual. La falla es q no prende por si sola hay q ayudarla con aditivos para que encienda

[@larrydoesschtuff]

¿Estás hablando de los turbos? Uso el eliminador de fricción Hotshot con cambios de aceite junto con algunos aditivos Deisel... luego antigel en invierno.

[@SatchFD]

Great idea. What did you clean it with?

[@larrydoesschtuff]

Just carb cleaner. I have used the seafoam throttle body cleaning stuff as well

[@SatchFD]

@@larrydoesschtuff Thank you Sir. I noticed down lower you are a career Firefighter. I am as well.

[@larrydoesschtuff]

@@SatchFD Yes sir, 33 years full time at this department. Previous pro ski patroller then Hotshot Wildlands crew out of the Coconino NF.

[@SatchFD]

Starting 32 this year. St Louis MO area.

[@larrydoesschtuff]

@@SatchFD you will start seeing some fire stuff over the next several months

[@edhardy5655]

Nices do u have a shop

[@larrydoesschtuff]

I have the shop for my contracting company where I can work. Fall cleaning is underway and had a mess in my normal work area. This sensor wouldn't normally take long at all but the extra wiring made me sure wish I had made room and pulled it under cover.

[@Thedoug369]

If you want your 6.4 to last, you should change the oil and fuel filters every time you drive the thing! Lol, just kidding, but every fill up? No, I'm not. One tank of bad fuel, and she's toast. 6.4s make power like no other diesel engines, but they die in a hundred different ways. It's a shame too cause there's really no way to bulletproof these things, because...they die in a hundred different ways! 12v Cummins swap in mine, problem solved.

[@larrydoesschtuff]

I change the oil every 2,000 miles, drain the primary fuel spot once a month. I buy filters by the case and work the cost down so it's really not so bad. I absolutely love the truck so I'll baby it and learn as much as I can, paying careful attention to things. I bought the "6.4 bible".... Amazing 3d diagrams/components.. great resource

[@mattbenson2497]

​@Larry does Schtuff wow that is allot to spend. Why not just delete it then you won't have regeneration and fuel dilution and you can do regular intervals on oil changes plus have a way more powerful truck.

[@oscarlarasalinas6452]

En iende. Ienpero.sele.cortadisol.se.para.motor dura prender