2008 Ford Explorer Limited Vents Won't Change Direction

So, I recently had a problem with my 2008 Ford Explorer Limited. It has the 4.0L SOHC V6 and electronic dual zone climate control. Well, when I selected the vents that blow straight at me, they didn't change. They only blew through the defroster and would not change to any other vents. After looking under the hood, I found a broken black colored vacuum line that ran into the passenger side firewall just behind the glovebox. The vacuum line harness that provides for the vent changing also provided pressure for the EGR valve and a sensor directly beneath the intake manifold.
So anywho, here are the tools I used:
3/8 drive ratchet
3/8 drive 6 inch extension
3/8 drive T-27 bit socket
3/8 drive wobble joint
The vacuum line harness part number is:
6L2Z9E498A
That is the part number you need to buy if your vacuum lines are broken.

[@chalinxc5185]

you saved me a lot of time and money, almost took the dashboard apart until I find this video, my hose was melted, replaced it and done! GENIUS. THANK YOU

[@CountIt178]

No problem! That's the EXACT reason I made this video! Nobody explained those lines at all, and it seemed like a waste to take it to a mechanic to replace a super cheap part!

[@wingmark2]

Thanks! A flex inspection camera helped in positioning the star bit into the interior back bolt. I tied a small nylon cord to the end of the old vacuum line assembly before pulling it out and then tied the cord to the new line to fish it back through easily. You need at least a 7-1/4" reach from the rachet to the end of the star bit and a long screwdriver or long pry tool to disconnect (push off) the hidden vacuum line under the manifold unless your hands are small. I wedged a small piece of wood under the manifold to hold it up about 2-3 inches. The main thing required to do this job is patience. You will eventually get the wrench on the back interior bolt but it might take 10 minutes or more of aggravation. The other 7 bolts are much simpler. The bolts are fairly long and will stay in place when you lift up the manifold a few inches. The job could be done in 15 minutes, but took me closer to an hour. Save the headache and buy a flex camera at Harbor Freight or Amazon. I aimed the flex camera at the bolt head in back, then watched the screen as I lowered and adjusted the star bit directly into it.

[@randomcommentary6099]

I do believe this is the video I'm looking for. I tested Her Explorer and was able to get hot and cold air, but it only came out the Defrost. I've watched a dozen videos describe no hot air and replacing the blend door actuator. Finally I found you describe my actual problem, thanks.

[@CountIt178]

No problem! Those lines are hard plastic, very small, and run very close to stuff that gets very hot. It's a recipe for brittle and cracking parts. Glad I could help!

[@urbandadtv]

Good looking out with this vid and info! this is why i love youtube! i had recently replaced my egr module and in the process broke one of those lines. now i know exactly where the line goes and connects! thanks for sharing.

[@CountIt178]

Absolutely! I didn't see any videos or anything about those lines, so I figured I would be the first in line! HA!

[@gregorykalush89]

I actually ordered the part number in your video, but the only issue I was having was with the AC blend door driven by the 4th vacuum line (the one that disintergrated on everyone who owns this vehicle). I started loosening the intake manifold bolts on my 2010 as you recommedned, and could not get to the last 2 toward the firewall ... also I was really struggling with replacing the orginal vacuum harness as it is poorly designed and will fail again in a few years. I decided to buy some brass tubing that was the exact circumfrence as the shitty plastice Ford tubing, and carefully drilled out the plastic from the rubber vaccum boot at the intake manifold and also the one way valve near the firewall then I glued the brass tubing pieces in place of the crap plastic tubing and connected them with standard rubber vacuum line and voila, it works perfectly and probably will never fail again ... but if it does, it now runs along the firewall and can be easily replaced. Total solution: $5.85!

[@whobdis77]

I was able to do this..with the help of my wife of all people. She's not happy but I told her much it saves us. My hands simply could not get under there. The only issue I had was fishing the lines under the manifold to the back. It made its way the left and it gets hung up in some stuff. The rigged plastic wrap around the tubes doesn't help as it catches on everything. I would focus more than I did to keep it on the right going through the 'tunnel'. Appreciate the video.

[@CountIt178]

Glad I could help and buy your wife something pretty for the help! This fix is miserable! Hahahaha

[@gregorykalush89]

THANK YOU!!!! That was exactly what happened on mine! Just fixed it, and works like a champ! Man that plastic line gets brittle mine broke while I was trying to re-attach it, I had to splice in some brass tubing with electrical tape and heat shrink!

[@CountIt178]

No problem! Glad I was able to help!

[@jrm163]

Thank you for the details! One comment is: when installing a new one, I would “splice” the one hose to the sensor from the assembly, and run the rest 3 hose just above the manifold. So it will be easier next time, and let the hoses away from the hot engine.

[@CountIt178]

That would be a great idea to future-proof the fix, however I usually install OEM parts whenever possible to avoid questions if I ever need to take it to a shop. Hahahaha

[@KENTONCATRACHO]

Very good video my friend I have 2008 too and I have same problem

[@TheRealCardz]

I have 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer that just started not blowing cold air when I accelerate. When it’s idling and coasting with acceleration it blows super cold. I was told to check for vac leak. Well mine is freshly cracked exactly in the spot as yours. I don’t have an issue with changing from floor to defrost etc. I’m really hoping this solves issue. I just happened to stumble across your video.

[@CountIt178]

Sounds like you have the same problem, and this should fix it without any issues! Good luck!

[@TheRealCardz]

I just got the same part from eBay from this vid. I’m going to install it tmrw and I should be good to go. They raised the price for that vacuum hose from $29 to $49. Well worth it to me because Michigan winters are coming and I need heat blowing from vents and not just defrost. Thanks again!!

[@TheRealCardz]

Alright that was it. I just got done replacing that vacuum line and boom everything is back in working order! Man that was NOT an easy job though. I took your advice and left the screws in just a bough to feed the new line through and that’s the key. That back bolt holding the SOHC on was a nightmare to loosen and then tighten back down. Thanks again for the excellent vid!

[@elitrevino7937]

Thks that for making the video. It's help me out my sport trac limited.

[@jeffarp7409]

Yea this definitely helps, it saved me a lot of work trying to figure out what is wrong with my vehicle, I have a bad fuel pressure sensor so I am going to try to kill 2 birds with 1 stone and fix both problems while I have the intake off. So thanks it definitely helps.

[@Happy-Trails-To-You]

I also had to replace this vacuum harness. I have a 2010 Explorer with this same harness. I gave up trying to reconnect the vacuum line under the intake manifold, because I did not want to take 1/2 the engine apart or pay a mechanic $$$ to simply connect a vacuum line. I ran it with that vacuum line plugged "temporarily" until I could figure it out. That mystery line goes to the fuel rail pressure sensor which is mounted on the top of the fuel rail under the manifold. The vacuum is used to "adjust" the pressure in the sensor to compensate for vacuum as the fuel injectors are spraying from the fuel rail into the engine.(see kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnTMeaCfhtGNoq8). Long story short, I started having big problems after about a year because I did not connect that hose. The fuel rail pressure sensor tells the computer the delta pressure from rail to intake and modulates the speed of the fuel pump in the gas tank. At high vacuum (low rpm, idle speed) the fuel pump is supposed to lower the fuel rail pressure to prevent overfeeding gas into the injectors. Without the vacuum tube connected, the fuel pump does not "sense" the high vacuum and my car was stalling at traffic lights at the worst possible time. I am getting engine code P0193 "Fuel Rail pressure sensor high output. There is a video that shows how to pull the manifold off, but it is soooo complicated. (see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6HbZnSmbc9mipY) I am ready to try this simple method of loosening the bolts and lifting the manifold just enough to reconnect that line. I just hope the manifold gasket does not split and start leaking. I really hate to have to loosen those bolts. What a horrible design flaw from Ford. Wish me luck. I am going to need it.

[@CountIt178]

Good luck! My intake gasket came right up with the manifold, so I didn't have any issues. I hope yours doesn't either!

[@Happy-Trails-To-You]

@@CountIt178 thank you. I appreciate you putting this video out. I will send an update regarding my success or failure.

[@madetohelpyou]

Great video

[@johnsalas9743]

Have to check this out on mine. Found another video where you can stick something like a straw in vent to get the door to close. Then starts blowing out vents again. Not sure exactly what's wrong with mine but blows out vents again at least. Have check this out tomorrow.

[@analeneokin114]

Thank you🤙

[@Tlumplump]

I just had this happen to me. I was able to connect all the hoses except for the one that you mentioned that was difficult to reason. I am thinking of attempting to left the manifold myself but I might take it to a mechanic.

[@CountIt178]

I have small hands, so I was able to wedge a screwdriver handle between the manifold port and block. That raised the manifold up a little over an inch, and that gave me direct access without any problem. You may need to enlist the help of someone with the right size hands.

[@Tlumplump]

CountIt178 how much you think it’ll cost me to get a mechanic to do it?

[@CountIt178]

@@Tlumplump I think I got quoted something nuts like $300-400 in labor because they take apart just about everything from the top of the engine. I got the part from Rock Auto for some hilariously cheap price like $30 or something (they wanted to charge me almost $150). Then I improvised and came up with this video.

[@robmullen8100]

thank you

[@davidfrizzell3794]

great job

[@CountIt178]

Thanks!

[@happyday8422]

Good v. Thank you.

[@salvadorvelasquez42]

thanks a lot

[@whobdis77]

Mine is 2010 but pretty much same set up. It was easy to see the tube had broken. Just handling what was left made the remaining tube just break apart. Now maybe mine is just different but the tube to the EGR is fine. The tube to the climate control is broke But there is another broken line and I have no idea where that might have went. I can't see a spot for it. I'm going to order the part but hopefully someone can tell me where tube #3 is to go

[@asanyondege388]

What if air comes out only one direction but for front ventilation don't work

[@justinlduenas]

Question, so my 06 explorer has a similar issue, only it’s a delayed switch. When initially starting the vehicle, the vent selection doesn’t work, until about 2 minutes later. Then randomly it’ll start blowing out at the face. Any time I Turk off the car, and then back on, it does it again. Every time. Any idea what that could be? Because it’s working, just delayed.

[@CountIt178]

Sounds like a weak heater air door actuator (aka blend door motor) or actuator motor. You can find them on rock auto for $20-30. This is all a guess, and I am no expert.

[@asya8231]

1:52 do you know what that wire is called ?

[@CountIt178]

It's not a wire, it's a vacuum line harness. The part number for the line I replaced is in the description, you can pull up the illustrated parts drawing on the Ford parts web site and see what connects to it if you need the other line that connects to the one I replaced. It should go to the firewall and into the A/C condenser unit behind the glovebox.

[@natehuber9613]

The hose at 4:56 what does it do? What is supposed to come out of it?

[@CountIt178]

It's a vacuum line. It pulls vacuum to actuate the climate control flapper and directional vanes. No clue how vacuum would power all of that, but it does.

[@1998gst4611]

Oh god what a pain in ass to work on this vehicle if theres something directly a problem with part of the motor or if something that needs to get to remove and replace it is under the intake manifold. I have an 06 Ford Explorer 4.0L the other day my a/c stopped blowing air thru the forward a/c vents but air was blowing thru the defogger vents. I haven't diagnosed where the problem is yet and I hope its not a broken vacuum line attached to the intake manifold. I taken that intake manifold so many times it ain't even funny anymore. I taken it off when I had to replace the valve cover gasket, replaced the spark plug wires, EGR valve and recently replaced a fuel pressure sensor.

[@CountIt178]

Ugh! I have been there for a few of those things you mentioned, and this is hands-down the worst engine I have ever worked on. We sold this Explorer and have never been happier! Hahaha

[@asanyondege388]

What if only front ventilation not blow air out?

[@CountIt178]

Sounds like your flapper valve that controls the direction of the air is broken. That is also a common issue with these years of explorer. Mine happened to be a broken vacuum line, but yours sounds like a broken flapper valve arm.

[@jgytiles]

Thanks

[@Mugiwara2906]

My problem was the hose broken because was resting in the heat and crack

[@1982jruiz]

I wish i would have seen this before spending so much money on these mechanics that dont know anything

[@CountIt178]

Hahaha Right?!

[@1982jruiz]

@@CountIt178 I have been trying to look up a diagram to what goes where, and i would like to know were the end goes, i know that its something to do with the AC but i would like to know how it connects and where it leads, i just have a feeling that that part could be missing in my suv. 2006 explorer, is there anyway you can film from were that tip ends or what it connects to and where it goes from there.... Please

[@1982jruiz]

@@CountIt178 I mean i do see it in the video 1:55, were the plastic is, but were does it lead from there

[@CountIt178]

@@1982jruiz Okay so the smaller diameter line (on the right) goes behind the engine between the block and the firewall. There is a connector right there just below the top of the engine. I could feel it, but not see it because it is in a really tight spot. Then, the hoses go under the intake manifold to the front by that fuel rail I mentioned.

[@CountIt178]

@@1982jruiz The other thicker line (on the left) goes to a connector on the firewall. If youre looking at the glovebox inside the car, it is on the opposite side of the bottom of the glovebox (if that makes sense). The thicker hose plugs into a connector on the firewall and goes to the aux A/C fan in the dash behind the glovebox (if I remember correctly).

[@mrzaboor]

Thanks a lot

[@CountIt178]

No problem! I hope I was able to help!