2009 - 2014 Ford F-150 Sub and Amp Install

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Parts linked in the description!

[@shaun7057]

i have the same truck and am putting a sub & amp in it so this video was very useful thank you!! i like the blue a lot more than the brownish goldish silver that my truck is

[@He2NawfMemphis]

Man thank you I was struggling trying to get power into the cabinet

[@broken1965]

I did exactly the same 2002 f150 crew...amp install mounted on 1/4 expanded PVC used my 1997 old La Sound Malibu 200w RMS in mono crossover with pioneer 300w Subwoofer in bandpass dual port box it hits hard Rockford fosgate prime coaxial 6x8x2.5 in 4 doors had to shim rear doors speakers 1/4 they mount to factory extenders

[@28daballa]

Curious why you didn't just continue down the passenger side with the power?

[@shannontuttle5754]

I have a 2010 platinum with the old Navi and small subwolfer. I'm not really interested in replacing the head unit. Will it be a huge difference in sound quality? I plan on making a big box that I can slide in and out with the seats up. I'm not so sure of airspace requirements these days. Last system I built was around the year 2000. Looking to go 4 12s or 4 15s. It's that feasible with today's subs?

[@aaronjech8199]

Im just fine with the factory speakers / sub in my 2009 Platinum. But I am so happy that I upgraded the old Navi with a Pioneer with CarPlay. so much nicer.

[@gwit3537]

I would strongly suggest a new head unit with Android/Apple auto in my 11 f150 SC. I just put in a kenwood HU with all the factory controls and maestro module so not to lose any of the factory settings/functionality. I am in the process of installing a 4 channel amps with the newly upgraded door speakers and front tweeters and a mono amp for dual 12's. I was able to get a 0 gauge power wire thru the passenger side grommet nipple after cutting the tip off. It is a hard pull but doable.

[@chaymitchell3346]

A red ground wire???

[@gizmoretro1604]

My remote wire stopped working any ideas on what I can do

[@johnnycash5858]

This is cute. Too bad that location won't work if you plan on not destroying the output from your floor mounted heater vents.

[@gabrielcabrera5513]

What box are you using ?

[@daviddavis8054]

Can you let the seat down comfortably and will all the settings work since its a different radio

[@mikeymouse1985]

How did you fold down the back seats I have a 2012 f150 and the back seats only fold up not down

[@ryancorbell9520]

They do, its tricky there is a latch somewhere behind the seat behind the head rests... I forgot exactly where it is but I remember seeing it somewhere. Hopefully that might help

[@Pr.2104]

Just look it up on KZbin, it's simple to do, just need a flat head to fold

[@HyperHowie56]

Does the air vent under the seat blow hot air on amp when the heat is on? I'm worried about this so trying to figure out how to extend air duct passed the amp. Thanks!

[@broken1965]

The seat vents only blow when HVAC is on FLOOR and FLOOR-DEFROST an PANEL-FLOOR. The air vents underseat dont blow hard but i did it and leave couple inches from vent, the air moving across the amp is actually beneficial i wouldn't put a big watt amplifier under seats but guys do. Go to the junkyard an get the ABS duct piece an butt it together maybe use Temflex or equivalent tape

[@v8group]

Stock speakers are still connected right and how to connect amp and sub to stock radio i have 2010 f150 xlt

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

With a line out converter will do the job: amzn.to/2T8oZqz

[@jonathanw2391]

how i did my remote wire, passenger fuse box , fuse #38 is radio , wrapped the remote wire around fuse tip and just shoved it back in . a lot easier than trying to find the right fuse tap . no wire doesn’t get hot

[@TheTruthBeToId]

I tried that but amp stays on. Is that normal?

[@jonathanw2391]

@@TheTruthBeToId my amp turns off when i open the door . same time as when my stereo turns off

[@TheTruthBeToId]

@@jonathanw2391 Ow so it turns off when you open the driver door. I get it. I tried it with the passenger door and it didn't shut off even though the key was out and the radio off.

[@jonathanw2391]

@@TheTruthBeToId mmm idk then , sure its the right fuse plug ?

[@TheTruthBeToId]

@@jonathanw2391 Yup, verified it with a diagram. Even tried fuse 28 but that one won't even trigger the amp.

[@daimienboyd6163]

What all do i need to put the new radio in. Do i need to get the wiring adapter, and all that other stuff or just the radio and dash kit

[@haydenstanley3674]

What cord did you use? From the batter to the amp?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

All parts listed in description

[@blazeconceptzhtx6456]

Did you upgraded your alternator?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

No need for only 500 watts RMS. If you are worreid about providing enough amperage to your new amp, a healthy battery and a big 3 upgrade will go a long way. Where upgrading an alternator is needed would be for systems pushing over 2000-3000k RMS+ wattage

[@TopArrowMedia]

I hooked up a 1000 watt amp and 12 inch subwoofer in my dodge Dakota factory stereo. I did not use a LOC. I just spliced into the 2 rear speakers with speaker wire and converted the ends to RCA and plugged directly into my amp. Sounds ok. But when I turn the volume up passed a point the subwoofer cuts out and loses all sound. Crackles. I have to turn volume back down to get bass back or I turn bass down on factory stereo to get subwoofer bass back. What would be causing this? Amp too powerful? (1000 watt). Not supposed to splice into rear speakers that way? Need a LOC? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[@billyhunt1095]

You need the loc , its to convert the frequency, whats coming straight out of the speaker wire is to high for your amp

[@TopArrowMedia]

William Q Hunter hey bro I appreciate the help! So if I buy the LOC can I just hook it up to my current setup and just hook my wires coming from the rear speakers into the LOC?

[@Hellabassguy]

@@TopArrowMedia I got a 2012 f150 I out a loc in my rear factory speaker wires and my amp can be turned up and all my highs and mids and tweeters don't cut out and bass is hard I have 6.5 600 watt peak/ 300 rms doors speakers and I have 10 tweeters that are all 300 watt rms and my two 8's are 600 rms each and my system don't get got or anything I'm about to upgrade to 1000 watt rms 12 scars and 2000 watt rms amp with a second battery also the loc powers both amps for my highs and mids thru the rear input output so just get the line out converter and you should be solid

[@vincenthernandez421]

@Rez Reel ya The frequency is too high on the speakers need to convert it to a low frequency the LOC will help with that It keeps cutting out the apm is going into protection mode

[@colepersinger6151]

What if I still have the stock radio how do I wire my wires in

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Pick up a line out converter. That should help you out.

[@DaBuick]

Some amps have that feature built in. Try to find that so your install is more simple.

[@rightwaypowerwash4965]

Okayy..

[@alejandronajar1139]

Can you do this set up with a stock radio ????

[@Sam-zu3px]

Yes I’m doing it right now in the 2009 f150 but the only struggle is finding where that red remote start butt connector goes. I want it to pair with sync so I’ll see if it works

[@dmantyler6901]

How did that work for u

[@dmantyler6901]

@@Sam-zu3pxdid u and up Hooking it up to the stock head unit

[@Tay_2_raww]

This did not work I don’t suggest this at all find fuse number 35 which should be the reverse assist fuse and that’s the fuse that you use for remote wire Thank me in the comments later

[@willfarrell3758]

Way too long of a ground... 12-18" max for a ground wire. Everything else was helpful though. Thanks!

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

As long as it is properly grounded, length of ground can be irrelevant.

[@FadingMemory]

I have a 2013 f150 platinum with factory radio I just want to add a sub and amp what do I need to do that?

[@zarickbuckman6982]

Factory head unit won’t work.. u have to get an after market head unit to add amp and sub

[@sluutyboy_m7797]

In-line converter .