2009 Subaru Forester | Drive shaft replacement | Propeller Shaft |

Welcome back to the channel

In this video I show you how to replace a centre driveshaft also known as the propeller shaft on a 2009 Subaru Forester with a 2.5 L SOHC Engine mated to a automatic transmission. This of course is a common problem on the Subarus as they get older. The U joints like to fail and there is unfortunately considered to be a non-serviceable part. However you can get you joints they often are not installed properly and lead to vibrations and being a major annoyance. Happy and said I hope you find the video entertaining as well as informative if you do please hit that subscribe button to support my work.
As always thanks for watching we will see you in the next one...

[@nickvuono2422]

Great video. Just replaced mine on a 2010 XT, only problem I had was that I didn’t realize how worthless my impact driver was with 120ft-lbs of torque. Pb Blaster a hammer and wrench got through it without any snapped bolts even in lake effect snow country at 200,000 miles

[@irmantasm1129]

Hi, I used this great tutorial and it worked. it is not really necessary to disconnect the exhaust pipe. thank you from Lithuania!

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Glad you found the video useful. Thank you for commenting

[@RCMa123]

Man what a joy seen you video lol thanks

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@jf-3945]

Enjoyed the video. 🙂JimmyF

[@caedynnoble2683]

Hi Jimmy this is a fantastic video. I live in Maine and we have badly rusted vehicles, that being said one of my hanger bearing support bolts is 100% seized. After plenty spray tap and wrench i had to go for my impact and that broke the seized bolt. Would worst case scenario be cutting and welding new metal? Thanks, Caedyn

[@caedynnoble2683]

Got the bolt out, heat worked! Now getting a new bolt in is another story.

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

The best thing to do depending on how rusted it is is to drill out the broken portion of the board. Unfortunately being in Maine heat is gonna be your best friend for getting out stubborn rusted bolts however it is dangerous and some thing that I would definitely have another pair of eyes they're along for the ride as you use it if you choose to for the next bolt. If you haven't got it out already I would definitely try drilling it out first and then tapping the bolt. If that isn't an option then yes the worst case scenario would be cutting out that section welding up a new piece of metal with a new retaining nut to hold in the new bolt.

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

I guess I should've read this before I reply to the other message lol but yeah heat is your best friend. Another bowl shouldn't be too bad Subarus should have them if not any scrap yard would gladly let you take one provided you take it out.

[@amcrae1]

Awesome video!!! One question... would it be a good idea to put lubricant on the outside of the shaft that does into the diff? It seems to me that it would help the seal stay good. p.s. you guys are FUNNY!

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

So I'm assuming that you're talking about the rear portion of the shop and bolts up to the diff? It is OK to put a thin layer of grease on that side. If you're talking about the other side that goes into the back of the transmission into the centre dish you don't wanna put any sort of lubricant other than transmission oil if it is completely dry or brand new. And then as for the joints no lubricant is really needed as it is a non-serviceable part, however if you're going to pull back the seal you can spray some white lithium grease in there.

[@amcrae1]

@@JimmysAutoClinic thanks!!

[@JesseMerlinLopez]

What is the torque specs for the carrier bearing center support?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Not sure off the top of my head I know it is in the video.

[@ChristianGiaconiBonaguro]

Missed by like 2 inches! 😂😂😂