2010 Chevrolet Traverse Throttle Body TPS Replacement

This video is to show how the throttle body was replaced on my 2010 Chevrolet Traverse. The Throttle Position Sensor was bad.
The dash was showing messages: Engine Power Reduced, Service Traction Control & Service Stabilitrak.
The car was very sluggish and sometimes would not go over 20 km/h or took a very long time to reach speeds of 80 km/h. Sometimes starting from a complete stop the tires would spin and then the car would quickly slow down in speed.

[@kearawiles1923]

I changed mine all by myself thanks to your video. 😃😃

[@jadajaz1826]

I am glad it helped. I always said if I can help at least 1 person it was worth it!

[@valarmorghulis9364]

Do I need to change the gasket and how do I make sure it’s sealed?

[@maurice6288]

awesome I want to thank this mechanic guy you saved me 450 bucks I got a new throttle body for 40 bucks at a salvage yard

[@jadajaz1826]

Glad I could help and home it works out for you!

[@maurice6288]

@@jadajaz1826 I know who to follow for now on for my Mechanic needs this is my 4th time fixing this car for my wife everything is usually an easy fix

[@billbrown220]

Mine went bad and I had to buy the whole throttle body as well. Fixed the problem though and mine now runs like a champ

[@marcusboyd7294]

Really helpful video. I'm about to do this repair on my sister's 2010 Traverse. Her's has the same error codes on the dash. Hopefully this fixes the issue. Thanks again!

[@jadajaz1826]

Hope it helps!

[@joseolvera9294]

Thank you I will be replacing it hopefully it will take care of it same symptoms

[@tcollier112]

Great video used it to replace my 2011 Buick Enclave!!!

[@remib.9392]

I think I may have this problem, did your enclave say service stabilitrac and reducing engine power?

[@michaelgonzales3752]

Did you have to reprogram yours

[@joelbunag2122]

Good job bro. I really learned a lot of your video

[@Jah7878Jah]

All of you guys are AWESOME!!!!! Not only are you gifted with the ability to fix and repair your cars, but if I could only have half of you guys as my mechanic, I would be alright!!!!!!!!! Now, I also have a 2010 Chevy Traverse and my traction, stability, and ABS lights are all on right now. Do you think I should purchase a new throttle for my vehicle? How much would that part cost me to purchase?

[@jadajaz1826]

I would say yes you might need a new throttle body. I think a new one was around $300.

[@spamtheman265]

Thanks..... Replacing ours next weekend!

[@melfrank8379]

I have spent way too much time researching and trying to figure out this GM screwed up design High Feature motor. You are replacing a throttle body because it keeps getting gunk ked up with oil that should not be in the throttle body in the first place. How you think replacing the body will fix that issue does not make sense. Fix the problem, not the symptom of the problem which is oil entering your intake through your throttle body instead of the other side of the throttle body. It happens because GM poorly designed the PVC system, the line from the back or right side of the motor has a line coming off the valve cover, it connects to a so called PCV valve stuck in the right side of the valve cover. It is not a conventionally designed PCV valve with a check valve in it, all it is , is a stamped piece of metal made to look like a valve with 2 tiny holes in the bottom of it that get clogged, when they clog it stops the crankcase from venting. when that happens crankcase pressure builds up and the only place for it to go is from the line coming from the front valve cover going into your intake side of the throttle body. So all the blow by from the pistons ( gunk building up in your throttle body) gets thrown where it is not suppose to go, the wrong side of the throttle body when it is suppose to go to the other side of the throttle body which is the direct intake of the motor where it will be burned and not end up clogging your throttle body. The fix is first get a real PCV valve that will fit the valve cover, not the crap that came with the car, Then hook a 5/16" fuel line to it running that line to just over where the front valve cover tube is coming out of the valve cover, there you will install an oil separator, about 10 bucks or less on eBay. You will be hooking this line to to the intake side of the oil separator. Oil Separator Part # is KM-PCT1/4 The oil separator off eBay will need to be retrofitted with a port on the bottom canister for a drain line , in that drain line put an air actuated check valve which will allow for flow out of the canister which hose will go to a Tee fitting you will install, in the line coming from the front valve cover, being the one that goes to the intake ( A port, on the intake side of the valve body) Run the output side of the oil separator back to the intake port it normally goes to located on the top of your intake manifold. Here is how it works, any blow by from your pistons (crankcase gasses and particles of oil) which is what gums up your intake ( Valve Body and intake valves) , gets caught by the oil separator when the car is running, there is a vacuum in the oil separator canister that keeps the air actuated check valve you installed in the bottom of the canister closed, it opens to drain the oil back into the motor when the car is shut off. You simply have a loop coming from your PCV valve going directly to your intake with an oil separator catching and filtering any crap you do not want going into your intake while the car is running When you turn the car off, the vacuum stops and the check valve you installed in the bottom of the canister will open and allow the caught oil to return to your crankcase via the Tee you installed in the line going to the front valve cover to the intake side of the throttle body. Look on you tube, they show how to make a check valve with a check ball and 2 sizes of hoses and a pin or nail. a lightweight plastic check ball is needed so the air can easily lift and close the valve with air flow. When you made one test it by sucking on it to see it close, blow to see it opens It took a little time and effort to plumb all this and make an air actuated check valve, but in a day I had a system that keeps oil out of my intake and automatically redirects it back into the crankcase when the engine is off. The clear oil separator canister also lets me see the condition of the oil in my engine because it is a reflection of what is in my crankcase. Hundreds of thousands of dollars GM spends to design these cars cheaply and a backyard mechanic has to redesign their screw ups. GM has lost my business, they know better, this motor was designed to have an inherent flaw in it's crankcase ventilation system and they made things worse by putting it in a motor that does not have the fuel injectors placed in the intake port where they would at least clean the crankcase vent gasses and oil off the back side of the intake valves, so another issue with this motor without my fix is the intake valves build carbon up on their back side. I know I rebuilt my motor and the build up was horrible on this 3.6 high feature v 6. On this motor typically the PCV system will clog throwing oil into your intake ( you will not be aware of it unless you see oil in your intake boot which goes into your throttle body) , you will prematurely run the engine low on oil, extra heat from low oil stretches the timing chains and basically the extra heat also does no good to any of the motors parts, and eventually like the one I have was done, the woman I bought it from did not check her oil between changes and burnt up the motor, melting a piston. FYI if rebuilding one of these motors, be prepared to buy a lot of stretch bolts, head, flex plate and rod bolts all have to be replaces, They even say replace the 2 stainless fuel rail lines which seemed like BS to me. Those I reused checking them for leaks after re installing them, with no problems. I use to be a Chevy man, but after this experience I can honestly say GM sucks with their greed causing poor product design quality. I'm going with Toyota from now on, my Prius has over 350k on it, still running strong with 46mpg with no engine work done to it.. I know my stuff, GM does not anymore.

[@carlosgutierrez6852]

This was so much help!

[@jaydoris6632]

What code did u have when check engine light came on?

[@mha7004]

Very good video, thank you

[@richarddavis9886]

Thank you 👍👍👍👍

[@melfrank8379]

The traction control light can have many causes triggering it, I had a bad cam position sensor triggering it, you have to read the diagnostic codes to help pinpoint the problem, basically anything that can cause the engine to lose power can trigger it..

[@atomic0utlaw-_-901]

Badd wheel bearing or the infamous broken “tone ring” can set off the abs arc and ST notices

[@DIYinspiredLewisBrantner]

last question, my ride hesitates sometimes when I press on the accelerator. this has been happening for about a month at 2 to 4 times a week. Now, yesterday, we seen the stabilitrak and service traction control message appear. How can I tell between needing an accelerator pedal position sensor verses a throttle body as you replaced in your video?

[@jadajaz1826]

I think i narrowed it down by taking the throttle body off and cleaning it, putting it back and it working for a short period of time.

[@derekb8599]

Did you fix the issue? I have the same problem with mine

[@emilioramirezjr7296]

@@jadajaz1826 how did you clean it ?

[@schuyokraj2612]

Mine had a hidden code during the "ENGINE POWER REDUCED" "SERVICE TRACTION" ETC. I plugged it in and it was throwing the TPS error code WITHOUT a check engine light.

[@cichlidtube1777]

​@@schuyokraj2612that means it's a pending code. It's not hidden. Once it does the problem a certain amount of times the check engine light will come on.

[@Jebaroth7259]

Great video man! Having this issue with my 2010 right now, hopefully getting it replaced will fix it!

[@miciah3351]

Did it end up working?

[@nemohoes8707]

Word I need to know did it work

[@kalexandria5]

Always start with cleaning the throttle body!

[@SSaravanan-q7z]

Hi sir same problem my car dashboard simple i can replace throttle body ?. And oil so much throttle body and air filter hose that problem how to salve?

[@paco5272]

how much did you pay for the part? and did you have to do any sync to the part when you installed it?...a mechanic try to tell me that when you istall the part it has to sync with rpm? i really dont think so.. what do you think?

[@jadajaz1826]

It does say that you should do a throttle body learn, I did it. If you watch the entire video you will see it at the end.

[@isthianthomas6386]

I searched up online and found a few TPS sensors, do I need to get a new throttle body too? Having an acceleration issue with my sister's car

[@jadajaz1826]

I am not sure to be honest, i just changed the entire throttle body and it had the TPS attached. It was an all in one kinda thing.

[@neustkg]

Did you see a P0221 by chance?

[@simonc4234]

How many miles was it before you had to replace it?

[@DIYinspiredLewisBrantner]

Hello Jada, I have a Buick Enclave, I am guessing it uses the same parts as your Traverse. Do you know by chance?

[@jadajaz1826]

I could not tell you that with certainty. Best place to find out would be to call a dealer or local part supplier.

[@cole15miller]

It does I got a used throttle body from a 2010 enclave and I have a 2011 Chevy traverse

[@philcanis-on3096]

Did you get the code first before you decide to change the throttle body? Because my 2008 Acadia has the same problem System Traction Control Off and Service Stabilitrak. But when I found out from my code reader its P0014 and P0017. How did you know that yours issue is Throttle Body? Its good for me just to change the Throttle body other than Camftshaft and Crankshaft sensor or anything else which is harder than Throttle body.

[@jadajaz1826]

I figured that it was the throttle body because I would clean it and it would work for a while and then the errors would so up again after a while. I did that a few times before replacing it.

[@philcanis-on3096]

I will try to clean my throttle body . I will let you know if its work. Thank you bro.

[@javierhernandez2629]

hello good video i have a question have you had no more problems with the throttle body?

[@jadajaz1826]

No. It has been good ever since the replacement.

[@MiraMadeIt]

Hi. My traverse reduces engine power. Rpm flutters. First code was fuel rail pressure sensor. Help me out

[@andrewjoos]

Has it been fine for 3 years since you made the video?

[@jadajaz1826]

Yes haven't had any more issues.

[@alysdad110207]

Did you have to reprogram the throttle body if so how?

[@DIYinspiredLewisBrantner]

my next question, did you change the accelerator pedal position sensor too?

[@jadajaz1826]

No, only the throttle body.

[@maurice6288]

do you need to reprogram it I got one it says I don't but some of the cheapers one do

[@javierhernandez2629]

I have a Chevrolet traverse 2009 has the same problem appears stabilytrak service I need your advice I replace it?

[@jadajaz1826]

Is the check engine light on. If so read the code before replacing anything.

[@nicktitzman2567]

I paid $85 on amazon for that part.

[@rigoarredondo1986]

How many miles do u have on it?

[@Schmitty4564]

Do you unhook the battery beforehand? Thanks

[@jadajaz1826]

I may not have, but I dont quiet remember. It never hurts to disconnect it tho.

[@joseolvera9294]

Has the issue come back I have a 2013 same problem

[@jadajaz1826]

No it has been good ever since it was changed.

[@dhd2313]

Dis you lose power intermittently ?

[@jadajaz1826]

No when it went into engine power reduced mode it was like that till the throttle body was removed. Only a couple of times or even once where the car was parked over night that it would go back to running normally in the morning.

[@vanessagay2663]

So my chevy traverse its does that but, it will kick into gear but then it won't kick down, like the RPMS will run hi until I stop puy in park rev engine or turn the car off for like 10 seconds then start it back up and it normal work, cleaned throddle body and work fine for a few days then right back to the way it was... grrr !🤔

[@jadajaz1826]

Almost sounds like what was happening to mine. Could be a good place to start.

[@Ron-h4l]

How many miles on it.

[@jadajaz1826]

Around 200 000 km

[@darrylkluttz580]

Fuel system f***** up as far as tapping like that

[@68-And-I-Owe-You-NONE]

Did it fix your issue ?

[@jadajaz1826]

Yes it did fix the issue. It has been 2 months now and nothing has come back on since.

[@kristaclark7563]

Did you notice if you had more issues when the weather was really cold? I have the same issue with my car but only during the winter. 😡

[@jadajaz1826]

I am not sure about the summer months. It started acting up around October and it was replaced in February. It did get progressively worse as winter went along, but I do not know if that was just a coincidence.

[@petemathieson333]

Just replace throttle body on my 2008 Buick enclave. Got it for $50 new on Ebay with free shipping. No more sporadic throttle jumps and rpm changes. Put 200 miles on today. It did the trick!!!!

[@martinlutherbling424]

Maybe you should TOTALLY remove the 4 throttle body hold down bolts and set them OUT OF THE WAY before they fall into the engine ! That goes for the throttle body gasket too. Get it the hell out of the way so you don't bend or break it. Even while you had it on the bench the bolts were falling all over the place and you set the throttle body down on the gasket. Jesus. The lighting in this video sucks.

[@jadajaz1826]

Thank you for the feedback Martin...I went to get tips on your video that you posted doing the same replacement and couldn't find it. I will wait respectfully.