2013 Ford Explorer Limited SEIZED WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLIES

A little run down on my wife's 2013 Ford Explorer AWD / 4x4 Limited with the 3.5L V6 and the issues I ran into replacing the wheel bearing/ hub assemblies.
Timken hub assemblies www.rockauto.c...

[@darylmckaig2331]

2013 Explorer with 108,000. I'm at two hours of hammering when I figured I better look on U Tube. Great Job. I'd considered I might have to disassemble the Assemblies but I feel better doing it now.

[@TrilhaMundo]

Yesterday me and a friend of mine spent all the day trying to use 3 tools fr o m autozone, and a lot of hammer and we didn't, was terrible, I never started to do job and didn't finish, I give up! And you are right, all the videos that I found looks easy, 2 min and is out... you are the only one that says the true! Thank you brother 🤟🏻

[@fiily1]

For anyone reading this, I just replaced the rear hub on our 2012 ford explorer with 115k in New England where there is plenty of rust corrosion, and salt on every car driven in winters here. Go buy (2) 1/2" wide grade 8 5" bolts, and 4 grade 8 nuts that match the size/thread of the bolts. Cut off 2 wheel studs(best bet is to do opposite side studs for best results) from the old wheel hub/bearing using a cheap HF grinder with a cutoff wheel, knock out the remaining wheel stud left from what you cutoff out the back on the hub and throw them in the trash. Place your two Grade 8 1/2" bolts through each hole where the studs were, and thread 2 nuts behind the hub, and start tightening your grade 8 bolt down with an impact gun or your 1/2" ratchet to the aluminum knuckle while holding the nut with an open-end box wrench. You might mar up the backing plate a little, and cause some minor marking on the aluminum knuckle, but better than doing what this and most other DIY people do, use the hub/nuts/bolts, and knuckle as a press. Go back and forth using even pressure on each side where the grade 8 bolts are pressing into the knuckle, and the nuts are pushing the hub outwards, and you 'll start seeing the hub separate from the knuckle, use some pb blaster, then finally take your 8lb hammer or bigger and a couple of whacks later, your old hub is out. You can thank me in the comments if you ever see this comment.

[@jonathanhudgins9613]

Dude, thanks for the advice!! I wasted hours until I found your instructions in this comment. The only thing needed to mention is to buy full threaded bolts. My first set were not fully tgreaded and I had no luck. Thanks!!

[@sevensspeedandcustom]

I'm trying this tomorrow!

[@RoughRaiders13]

You can get a hub shocker tool on Amazon for $40. I've never had it fail and I live in northeast NJ. Plenty of salt and snow. I'm a work smarter not harder kind of guy. I'm sure your method works but I rather pop the wheels off, put the hub shocker on, and whack it with a sledge and be done with it. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@brianbrinks3433]

Thanks for posting, saved me a ton of time taking your advice! The rear knuckles weren’t even that hard to take off. It ended up taking 10 tons on my press to get the bearing out.

[@CountyLineGarage]

Glad I was able to help. Sure wish I would have decided to pull the whole knuckle sooner!! I will advise you have a 4 wheel alignment done afterwards just to be safe. I don't know if it was me pulling the knuckle or something going wrong with the toelinks but it cupped the tire real bad shortly after doing this. Check out the latest repair video I did on this explorer for details.

[@nobotious]

I'm in the same boat, Spent 3 evenings trying everything I could. I used to do rebuilds on industrial equipment and I've never had anything come apart this hard lol. (2014 Police Utility with the 3.7l)

[@eddiehennig7835]

I live in Michigan and see seized hubs like this all the time. The tool that saved my life is "The Hub Shocker". It's basically a reinforced steel square tube that you bolt onto the hub. You support the knuckle with a floor jack (or tripod stand of you're on a hoist) and go nuts with as big a sledge hammer you want. The worst one I've encountered with the Hub Shocker took a half hour and required heating the knuckle with a torch, soaking the back side with penetrating oil, and a 10lb sledge.

[@bobbynewton4555]

I just done the same job Saturday. Took me 3 hours to get one out pounding with a 2 1/2 lb hammer . A press would have been so much faster.

[@onoahimahi]

Thanks for posting. I'm in the same boat with a rear bearing on a 2013 Limited with 100k Massachusetts miles on it. I beat on it and used a slide hammer for 2-3 hours and it hasn't budged at all so I put it back together and made an appointment with the shop. I may take one more crack at is based on the comments and discussion here

[@CountyLineGarage]

I just had the other 2 done last week, I've been very busy lately so I payed a friend of mine to do them (he has an auto repair shop). He was able to get them off without pulling the knuckles by using a heavy duty Snapon air hammer on the bolts of the hub.

[@onoahimahi]

@@CountyLineGarage I just got back from the shop and they were unable to remove the hub and had to remove the knuckle and press it out. They said they tried every technique including the Hub Buster thing. The labor charge was $515(!)

[@CountyLineGarage]

@@onoahimahi that sucks!! very bad design.

[@shrtctc814]

Same boat here! 2012 can't get the front left bearing out. Ordered the knuckle and I hope I do not need to order the control arm. Just found the video!

[@shrtctc814]

Update I have to order the control arm and our tie rod. Can not get it off and have to cut. So I even added the CV axle just incase! I love this car but damn!

[@markh3751]

Thanks for this video. I am going through the same thing and this helps.

[@CountyLineGarage]

`Glad I could help. I wish there would have been a video like this before I did mine haha

[@Holler_Rat]

Replaced the rear wheel bearings on my 2014 Explorer Sport at 80k, and now doing the fronts at 90k. Unbelievably difficult to remove these bearings. I cant believe the tiny weight savings is worth the use of aluminum in this application.

[@CountyLineGarage]

yeah it's terrible. Funny because I drove the car again the other day and noticed a bit of a hum again, sounds like it's time for the other 2 for me as well.

[@Holler_Rat]

@@CountyLineGarage (Update) I found a local independent shop that said they could do the front wheel bearings for $160. They also said they'd install the factory parts if I bought them, so I ordered the HUB-87's from Amazon for $151 each- In total, I was out $462 plus tax. I normally do all my own repairs, but this job is a pain. When I picked up the Explorer, I spoke to the mechanic and he said he'd never do that job again, so I tipped him $20 because I felt bad for him. It's a tough job. Best wishes and thanks again for the video.

[@CStockner]

I replaced the hub assemblies on a 2012 Explorer with 230,000 Ohio miles. I used a 10lb sledge and beat the crap out of it. Came loose after about 15 minutes and a bunch of Kroil.

[@CountyLineGarage]

Nice! Well since I was a cheapskate and only did 2 the other 2 are now growling a bit so I have the parts ready to go with a new game plan I'm going to try out.

[@papabits5721]

Buddy asked me to change out one his explorer and I turned him down, knowing how difficult these can be and living in the rust belt and I work in my driveway. The shop he took it to said it was a six hour ordeal to replace hub bearing.

[@CountyLineGarage]

I believe it LOL.

[@truckerdave5122]

Just did my wife's 2013 hub on left rear in Maine so it was A LOT of hammer swinging swearing and fat lip and chipped tooth later its replaced lol

[@40yeartrucker25]

Can you buy knuckle and bearing assembly I wonder what that price would be. ?

[@CountyLineGarage]

I don’t know that you can buy the assembly but the knuckle was a dealer item at the time, or salvage yard.

[@Stealth-2007]

I'm in the same boat with 2013. Trying to get the front off. No luck yet. :(

[@CountyLineGarage]

it's very frustrating! wish i would have pulled the whole knuckle from the get go.

[@Stealth-2007]

CountyLine330 I was able to heat up the aluminum around the bearing, put an old rotor on backwards, and beat it off. I did both in 30 minutes.

[@CountyLineGarage]

@@Stealth-2007 lucky! I did try that, unfortunately I didn't have an old rotor lay around but I was able to take a piece of steel c-channel and drill a few hole in to bolt onto the hub for hammering purposes. Still wouldn't come off for me.

[@nicke2307]

Going through it as we speak lol. Im going to buy a bearing separator from harbor freight tomorrow and try pressing it out on my 12 ton press and if not then Im going to bite the bullet and get a 50 ton press for my shop

[@nicke2307]

I live in upstate NY. Same problem here with salt and corrosion

[@nicke2307]

Update: no need for a press. Buy 2- 1/2x6in grade 8 bolts with grade 8 nuts and 2- 3/4in nuts. Knock out 2 studs and setup the bolts so the bolt goes through the hub then on the other side place the 3/4 nut which will act as a spacer, then put on the 1/2in nut. Make sure the bolt pushes on the aluminum steering knuckle. It may deform the dust shield but no biggie. Then get a wrench and impact and press each bolt in. Voila you have a 20 ton press!

[@mikeborowski5764]

@@nicke2307 best tip on this video!!! Lifesaver!!!

[@darter1075]

invest in a porta-power with a wedge. 10k lbs pressing power.

[@garynaylor670]

yep just did one left front today exact same thing happened to me with the ball joint nut what bullshit is this

[@Tunnel_Vision_Moto]

Literally happened to me also, I also live in Ohio!

[@CountyLineGarage]

I get jealous watching repair videos from parts of the country that do not see the nasty road conditions we see. Was watching a video one time I believe it was for front hubs on a 97 f350 and their truck looked brand new underneath. Thought to myself this isn’t going to help me at all 😂