2013 Silverado Ignition Coil Resistance Testing - Bad Coil Causing Engine To Miss While Idling

[@gettinglucky]

found your video trying to figure out the same problem on my 2005 Envoy 5.3, also cylinder 1

[@OLDAD_]

Thank you !my truck is doing what you described right now

[@BobSisson-r6e]

I have a degree in electronics. As a such I've learned that electronic parts do not like or survive in an high heat environment. Therefore, anytime there is an electronic part close to, say an engine compartment or an engine block, the electronic parts WILL fail. I've seen the electronic schematic of these coils and they contain a "power transistor" and, at least, one diode. Those particular parts are susceptible to extreme heat (engine compartment) and are not "heat-sinked" AKA cannot dissipate heat from the electronic circuits that exist in those coil packs, e.g. the transistor and/or the diode. As a result, given time ( albeit semi-short) those components will fail. I had a similar situation with a fuel solenoid driver on a diesel truck. The FSD pack (fuel solenoid driver pack that had power transistors) was not "heat-sinked" properly from the manufacturer and as a result the engine would die. The fuel pump was fine but the FSD failed due to engine heat that the electronic parts could not handle. I'd guess many vehicle manufactures' do not address this problem effectively. These coil packs are mounted on the engine block and may fail prematurely given the high heat environment.. With that said, there are still plenty of vehicles that are still amble, so... When i've looked at these such coil replacements there seems to be a replacement packs of eight for both sides (or banks) of the engine. Why? Your interest is as best as mine. Note: Keep electronics cool.

[@toxicwolfgaming2972]

Since electricity transfers its energy to heat too, lol

[@douglascunningham1840]

Check your fuel injectors for being plugged up.

[@CHISELCHIPPER68]

One year later, my best uneducated and uninformed guess is an electrical issue leading into the coil. The wires coming off the pigtail are labelled A, B, C and D. D is Battery positive (key on), C is the control wire from the computer, B is a clean ground ( from the battery) and A is a ground to the chassis. If you do a key on engine off back probe of the pigtail verify that you are getting battery voltage from D. Then you can verify the two grounds are doing what they're supposed to be doing. Grounding. If those are working, then the only variable left is the control wire coming from the computer. I'm not sure if you would get a stable reading if you probe it with the engine running since it would be a low voltage pulsating into that wire. It is safe to do this with the injector disconnected. You can try that. If the others pass the test, the control wire may be having issues of continuity. This can be from being frayed, poorly connected to the junction box in the middle of the engine cover or have a ground fault of some sort. Trace the wire back in sections as much as you can and do continuity testing with a multimeter. Worse case scenario, the ECU may be faulty (rare but possible). Hope this helps. Good luck. _2003 Chevy Express 3500 owner/self maintainer_

[@electric8668]

Have you changed the spark plugs?

[@mchenrykramer]

Prior to this, I have changed all spark plugs. All eight. I change the spark plug associated with the coil every time I have this issue. I do wonder if the situation exists that either the spark plug is causing the problem with the coil or the coil is causing the problem with the spark plug. I have read where there's a possibility that restricted oil flow because of fouling in the ports in the valve cover to the cylinder that leads to the issue is causing excessive heat because of a lack of lubrication to that cylinder which kills either the coil or the spark plug..

[@electric8668]

@@mchenrykramer Then you must consider it could be a bad ECM/ECU.

[@MrMuskokaDD]

Hello. did you find out the root cause to the #1 coil always going bad? I'm having the same issues

[@mchenrykramer]

No, I never found the source of the issue. However, I did have a lifter tapping that I have wondered whether it was related or not because I have seen videos and read where the valve cover oil channels can foul up and prevent proper lubrication of lifters. I used Marvel Mystery oil mixed in with my oil change and the lifter stopped tapping. It has not started tapping since. Coincidentally, I have not had a coil go bad either. However, that is not definite proof that the coil issue was related to the lifter tapping issue.

[@ChippyOutdoors]

​@mchenrykramer ya i been trying to trace what I think is a bad coil pack getting heat soaked on hot days but I'm not positive but also have a lifter tick. Lifter tick /collapsed lifter is just getting replace and dod delete and a few other things since have to pull heads. Know what they say if your going to do it mid as well it right the first time lol

[@mchenrykramer]

@@ChippyOutdoors that's right! Since using MMO and doing the delete, I have not had to replace another coil and no lifter ticking.

[@bradleyrussell1973]

Mine is doing the misfire also. On hot days, it's much worse. Cool mornings, minimal misfire. Just tuned up with coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter, two tanks worth of Seafoam, and O2 sensors. Ran great until last week, betting #1 already burned a new coil. There MUST be a way to insulate #1 from the heat!

[@mchenrykramer]

@@bradleyrussell1973 I have not had the issue since I got the programming change and it stays on 8 cylinders. I have a feeling that it was not getting enough oil in the cylinder was getting hot. I read where some folks head gunky buildup in the ports in the valve cover. Dallas Cowboys not letting the oil flow.

[@frankbatiz8908]

THIS GUY NEVER SHOWED NOTHING

[@mchenrykramer]

@@frankbatiz8908 Sorry, I was just hoping to help someone with the same issue. What were you looking to see?

[@frankbatiz8908]

@@mchenrykramer Just want to know whats wrong with the old one compared the new one. Couldn't understand anything you tried to show. I didnt get the point

[@gkldll]

​@@frankbatiz8908 the bad coil has ohm readings on the terminals when the black tester wire is attached to the ground wire outside of the coil. The good coil has no readings so basically when testing, the bad coil has wire continuity (closed circuit/a shorted wire in the coil) but the good coil has no continuity (open circuit). I think the first coil he tested which had no readings is the open circuit/no continuity/good coil. The 2nd coil he tested from the start is the bad coil

[@gkldll]

Following this video i found 2 of my coils were showing closed circuit/continuity and the other 6 were still sweet