2013 Vauxhall Mokka Rear discs and pads

I carried out a rear disc and pad change on a customers Mokka and recorded it so you guys could do it yourselves.... all tho you should know you are doing that at your own risk and are responsible for any damage cause to yourselves or the vehicle
1. jack it up and remove the wheel
2. slacken and remove the 10mm bolts holding the caliper on. i used a 10mm socket and spanner to do this. make sure you secure the caliper not to damage the brake pipes or hoses
3. pull the pads out the way i couldn't on this cause they where stuck in.... move on to step 4
4. remove the carrier bolts and remove the carrier .... its held on bat 2x 14mm bolts
5. remove disc use a T30 to remove the retaining screw
6. clean everything up and wind the piston back in
7. reassemble
make sure you pump the pedal before pulling up the hand brake and always use axle stands.... play safe everyone

[@aciddiver1978]

The caliper bracket must be thoroughly cleaned with wire brush or similar, and also clean the sliding pin holes with brake clean and a gun brush. Then the hardware for the pads must be replaced, and add some copper paste under the hardware. The caliper slide pins must be wiped off and greased up again and preferrably the rubber boots replaced aswell.

[@EllsAutoCare]

That’s an interesting statement, thanks for making it.

[@ciorbadeburtacuardei]

@02m10s, after the hub rust brushing it was advisable to wash it again, or to wipe with a cloth, before installing the brake rotor. @05m35s - the piston slots must be aligned with the little bump on the back face of the pad. You may see the two bumps on the front pad. On the rear pad there is only one bump, which has to fit in one of the two piston slots!!

[@EllsAutoCare]

I'm not really sure what your trying to tell me?

[@clj.4874]

When you put caliper back on dont the two holes in piston have to line up with the lugs on the new pads aswell ?

[@EllsAutoCare]

Yeah mate, like it’s not critical but it allows the pad to be pressed more evenly. Allowing it to wear evenly, last longer and be quieter

[@clj.4874]

@@EllsAutoCarecheers mate, i have done them but noticed i got alot more clicks on the handbrake now for some reason, so im going to have to take caliper off and see if i can see anything.

[@EllsAutoCare]

@@clj.4874 it might be settling mate, give it a few days….. obviously without looking myself I don’t actually know

[@matthewharmer1656]

Clockwise to turn the piston in or anticlockwise???

[@EllsAutoCare]

Hey Matthew it's a right hand thread so clockwise

[@matthewharmer1656]

Thanks, cheers.

[@EllsAutoCare]

It's my pleasure!

[@jordandaniel249]

Do you have to release the handbrake? Some reason I can’t remove the caliper after I’ve taken out the 2 bolts

[@EllsAutoCare]

Hey I have only now seen this! I'm really sorry. Did you manage to sort it?

[@keshae1]

@@EllsAutoCare I assume that handbrake need to be off?

[@EllsAutoCare]

Yes you do @@keshae1

[@benk1102]

Did you have to prise the piston back to get the caliper over the new pads? I've just done the fronts on mine and will be doing the backs next week. Prying the front pistons back was the worst bit on the fronts

[@EllsAutoCare]

get a windback tool from amazon to wind the piston in. they come with a plate to make pushing the fronts in even easier.

[@motolocounobikenut1482]

You could use old brake pad and G cramp don’t forget to take cap off your brake fluid before cramping back piston possible overflow of fluid,👍

[@g.d2450]

I use a wee Calpol syringe to drain some fluid out of the reservoir so it doesn't overflow and into a clean empty coke bottle, can reuse it then if needs a wee top up