2014 2021 Mazda 6 Front Brake Pads Rotors How to Remove Install 2020 2019 2018 2017 2015 2016 2015

Here I show you how to remove and install the front brake pads and rotors on your 2014 through 2021 Mazda 6. something to look out for to let you know you need new brakes would be a high pitch squeal for pads or a grinding metal on metal sound for rotors.
***Parts & Tools
Front Brake Package:
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Pads only:
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Basic tools I commonly use:
Milwaukee Ratchet: amzn.to/2Fzf839
Regular Ratchet: amzn.to/2FxYsZO
Milwukee Impact: amzn.to/2X5c5W2
Socket Set: amzn.to/2IOTERA
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Swivel: amzn.to/3dYJieE
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Wheel Chock: amzn.to/2J6Sjog
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[@rrmorris67]

I currently own 3 Mazda 6 cars (2005, 2008, 2014) and a Mazda 3 (2010). Great cars! But I would have to say the Mazda brakes are a weak point, or certainly cause of frustration for me over the years. I do all the maintenance and repairs to keep these things on the road. So I have done plenty of brake jobs and have learned a lot. You are very correct about removing, cleaning and re greasing those slide pins. Very important. That is a must do. And inspect the little rubber boots to make sure theyre seated correctly and are not torn. And I always just go ahead and replace the rotors because Mazda brakes are notorious for that warped rotor problem. Your bracket and and clips looked to be in really good shape and didn't need it but I always take a wire brush to all those areas on the brackets to remove rust, and then I grease those spots on the brackets behind where I put the new clips. I also grease the piston surface where it contacts the pads after removing any rust I find. And inspect that rubber piston seal. Sometimes they get wonky or become unseated when you're taking things apart. I always make sure I'm buying pads that come with clips. rust/corrosion of the clips can make the pads get hung up on those clips, too and cause uneven wear. Lastly I would add that you should always take the opportunity since you are in there with these Mazdas to open that bleeder valves and gravity bleed out the lines all the way to remove as much old brake fluid as possible. I will turkey baster fluid out of the reservoir first and fill with new fluid so I can get new fluid going down into the lines. I have learned this the hard way. Contaminated/old fluid sitting in those calipers will cause them to corrode and stick/fail. Several times I had done a pad/rotor brake job only to have a caliper fail and seize up on me just a few thousand miles later, causing damage to the relatively new pads and rotors.

[@imhooks]

So you add new brake fluid in the reservoir and then open the bleeders to let the old stuff just drip out? No need to pump it out or anything?

[@rrmorris67]

@@imhooks I just did the front brakes on my 2014 mazda 6 today. I got impatient so i slowly depressed the pedal a good dozen times to hurry it along. Leave the cap on the reservoir because it can bubble fluid up and out if you dont. Just keep checking the level and add new as you go.

[@imhooks]

@@rrmorris67 thanks. I'll be doing mine this weekend. Will go ahead and change fluid as well.

[@JoseGonzalez-jp1hy]

the way you worked with that grease was amazing!

[@carladams156]

Exactly the right amount of detail I was looking for

[@fuzzylumpkins6034]

2013 Mazda 6 tourer and sedan as well. Facelift (MK3) started in 2013 in the UK, not sure when they released in the US, I know you guys do not get as many engine options as we did as the US seems to be scared of diesel engines in cars and for good reasons- the DPF requires an immediate delete and remap or you will destroy your bi-turbo and engine by 140k miles. The UK diesels were designed to fail with all the government forced parts we never needed/wanted and add to pollution, not detract from it. Edit anti seize hub after cleaning it- makes it better for wheel change and next rotor change. Just good practice to clean and grease all points. Great vid, cheers mate

[@petewiltfang]

This video is so good that I thought it was me making it

[@jonathanr2417]

Perfect video with reasonable detail thanks so much!

[@thomi234p9]

I like your electric tool. That really removes a screw very fast. Must have that too :-)

[@barryjhawkes]

Thanks mate, helped me do mine myself 👍👍👍

[@idkbob7550]

2018 model , issue with the elctical parking brake interferes with this simple process. if you could do a video explaining how that would be great.

[@_GSzabados]

Here is another video which answers your question, and gives some ideas how to do the work if something is wrong. I hope it helps! kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5S2Ymuod6pogpo

[@ianlewis4392]

This is perfect thank you

[@garsha1983]

Great demonstration. Thanks a lot

[@Pinkielover]

anything but Akebono I will use .. Akebono pads or go home.. And that goes for every make of car.. They are the best Take a ride to Napa and pick them up.. If you're gonna get rotors don't Ever go with ones with holes.. They warp even easier.. Go with super premium rotors from Napa they also sell Slotted ones would never get the ones that have holes through it... Slotted ones do the same work and they don't warp easy.. The ones with holes are basically for our viewing pleasure there's really no function to it slotted ones are better if you still want that look

[@agentzero334]

Just read a review on NAPA saying they suck and don't ever buy them🤔

[@aidanfrazier6040]

the slotted and drilled help with distributing the air to keep them cool, my old civic HAD to have them because the regular slotted kept warping. They’re performance not aesthetically pleasing.

[@TheNDex]

Great video bro much love

[@rizegraymon1]

By pumping the brake pedel is it just a simple as doing that before putting on the wheel? How many time should I pump it ? Should the car be on or off

[@ShadowRing0219]

Thank you

[@coltonc.2455]

Once you took the bracket off, how did you slide the rotor off so easy? Mine appears stuck...

[@imhooks]

You can just knock it with a mallet around the edges to loosen it. It probably got rust between the rotor and hub.

[@juliuszacariasvelasco]

Are the e brakes on while you do this

[@scootx3946]

do you have to bleed the brakes after replacing pads and rotors?

[@DodgemanSlease]

No. The only reason to bleed the brakes is if you replace the calipers, or replacing any brake lines. Pads and rotors itself you dont

[@rrmorris67]

@@DodgemanSlease See my comment. Ive learned that with these mazdas you really should be bleeding lines. not doing so has cost me a lot of money and shortened the life of my calipers.

[@tobiaskuhn6043]

These clips are at the wrong position. They need to be at both sides of the pad on that nose. Installed like on the video this is completely wrong.

[@AbooUK]

I agree, the clip isn't a wear indicator, you should have one on the indent at either end of the pads

[@bdubble1967]

by chance do you have a link for mazda 6 2015 front and back pad&rotors? or rear...since you have the front link above (which I so appreciate...having the hardest time finding them)

[@paulkile9998]

Have you never heard of torque values? Those caliper bracket bolts are critical to have the proper torque, same with the caliper bolts!

[@perknsmerch4824]

What’s the proper torque value for it?

[@dano2490]

@@perknsmerch4824 Probably too late, but it might help others. Caliper slide pins 24 ft-lbs, bracket bolts 75 ft-lbs.

[@Big_AlMC]

​@@dano2490 Thanks brother. I was going to comment but was looking for someone who already put it. Reason why we DIY. We want to make sure its all done right(hopefully) and save money. Had bad experiences with dealership with something minor being missed and bolts not torqued right causing problems.