2014 F150 Rear Door Harness swap. Stressed wires breaking.

This video was a question whether to repair or replace the wire harness in the rear door on the driver side. Finding 2 wires separated, and two more about to break. It was evident that other wires broke before I had bough tis pick up. The F150 is a 2014 and I bought it in 2016. So to see wires already repaired with in a 2 years is disconcerting. Because the number of wires broken and beginning to break the question was to repair or replace. It was obvious the wires were stressed beyond their life span.
This is not a paid promotion for the products I use. I use what is available to me to get a job completed and inform others of cost.
Music is provided by You Tube Music Library.

[@ecobuilder2996]

Only guy I found that shows how to unclip the harness from the pillar. A++++ Many thanks!!!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Thank you!

[@lukewiginton4034]

Thanks for the video just finished the swap. Helped so much!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Great to hear!

[@devencadriel2361]

Yup. That's my problem. I finally found the right video.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Thank you for watching!!

[@OffRoadingFriends]

My issue is not as bad as yours. My problem is the door not locking or most times not unlocking. All my doors do it now. Lucky the one day only the one would unlock. Thanks for the info

[@rickbeversluis7737]

This was the best online DIY for this project. Thanks so much for going thru all the details/steps. About to tackle this in my driveway as my part has just arrived.

[@donboyd343]

You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! You gave me the courage to get this done today!! Thank you!!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Thank you very much for watching. Glad I was able to help.

[@timsuko]

Thank you for being so thorough. About to go and tackle this in my driveway

[@wolfloverify]

Thanks Big Guy!

[@lakeforest-nm8032]

My left rear lock stopped working. After checking actuator on right rear door, it was fine. Found the wiring harness with broken wires and cracked insulation. My 2012 does not have the 9pin connector, it is a solid cable. I am splicing in two multi conductor cables. This would have cost a pretty penny at the dealer.

[@landshark666]

Wow. This was a very well made how-to. I had already gone the splice route a few years back to fix power loss to the rear door but the door sensor wire (and some others) broke last week. After watching this video, I decided to just replace the entire harness. Thanks!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped!

[@TC057]

Thank you, sir!!! I had the exact same issue with the door warning issue and then an inoperative door lock. I repaired the wire for the door warning, but when I checked the harness for the door lock issue, I found multiple broken or frayed wires. I ordered the new harness and thanks to your video, will be able to install it with no problems. Thank you for such a great video. I prefer to do the work myself instead of having a shop charge insane rates for a simple job. Also, after I installed the harness and was going back together with the door liner(underneath the panel), you had mentioned the glue doesn’t stick well. I found that spraying the perimeter area with contact cement works great! The liner stuck just fine. I still put the duct tape up top like you did, but the cement held fine.

[@user-xf4ew6tu1m]

Just changed out the harness in my 2010. Same procedure, savings %30.00 as quoted by old Service Department. Took a little over an hour from gathering the tools to putting everything away> Video was awesome!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Sweet!!

[@spencersimmons5241]

This is perfect. I fixed this once already and kept having the same problem. I looked further after watching this and yes, I need a new wire harness. Multiple wires was broken. Thank you!!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped!

[@travispowell4280]

All the details with no filler. This has enough detail for any competent DIY to get the job done. I did this job in under an hour and the only thing I would caution you with is the door skin under the panel is brittle in the cold weather and you are best off with a heat gun and time to get it off in the most pieces possible. Other than that, this video was perfect.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Your correct. Warm air repair is better for all plastic parts on a FORD.

[@jct0667]

Thank you for sharing your experience, and your time with us. I have this problem with my 2014 f 150, with what I learned from you in your video I am going to repair it myself because at the Ford dealer it would cost me a leg and an arm to repair. Thank you 👍

[@bigguydiy2184]

Awesome! I am very happy I was able to help!

[@joeweihs2047]

This was great I have the same issue with the right side door I went to the dealer in Tennasee, ( I’m from Florida) I asked for a repair price, and was quoted $180.00 just to troubleshoot the issue, I’m not in the shape I once was, but I’m willing to take the chance after watching this awesome video. Thank you.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Take your time, it's do-able with simple tools.

[@johnnycash5858]

Thanks for being so thorough with your shots and comments. I was able to pull back the rubber boot, resolder the frayed wires and add a sleeve of heat shrink to each one to add stiffness and protect the repair. Took about 20 minutes and saved me 70 bucks for a new harness and all the time and hassle of disassembling the door. No more Door Ajar warning and delayed dome light.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Excellent!

[@edm9760]

It will break again, guaranteed. I re-crimped mine 3 or 4 different times in the past and just the other day the door ajar wire broke off right at the connector. No way to crimp it again. have to buy a new connector. It always breaks at the worst time too.

[@user-sv2sq8ed3s]

Great video! Appreciate it!

[@bigguydiy2184]

My pleasure!

[@stackerg6141]

Thank you so much for this video. I paid $47 for the harness, would’ve been over $300 in labor and parts. Great video!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@PerpDoc]

Excellent ! Went just like you showed ! Thanks

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped!

[@bradenwood1540]

This is exactly what I needed! thanks A man who does a really helpful video with no drama is a real man!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Thank you!

[@user-yx9xy6sc3c]

thank you sir for the good video

[@bigguydiy2184]

You're are welcome!

[@derrickbullington5504]

Thanks for a good video. You are the only one I found who explain how to disconnect the harness in the door.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Thanks for watching!

[@user-dy8fx2or3v]

Thank you for your video. I switched mine out with a new harness and folllowed your video step by step!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@Rico12VR]

Thank you for this video! I am heading outside to try and do this to my truck. Fingers crossed!

[@bigguydiy2184]

You can do it!

[@Rico12VR]

@@bigguydiy2184 thanks so much it took me an hour thanks to your video

[@stevemartinezjr]

Thanks for the video, after watching I was able to perform this repair on my truck in less than an hour. Much appreciated!

[@bigguydiy2184]

You're welcome!

[@tonyfoley9988]

Thanks for this video bud because I'm in the same boat with this issue on my 2013 so now I know exactly what to do.

[@ericjustice553]

Very good video and audio and thanks for covering everything including the gorilla tape. I have 3 wires broken and have ordered the wiring harness for both rear doors. The left rear is broken now but expect the other side to break in future. I will be replacing the whole harness today. I will comment back after i finish.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@elizabethsmall5767]

lol did this in the dark with just a head lamp first time got my issue fixed I'm so grateful for you and the step by step process thank you so much worked great for my 2010 f150 platinum

[@bigguydiy2184]

Fantastic!

[@Waitingforthewormstocome]

Thanks for making the video, sir. I just finished doing mine. Did it in about an hour and a half, no problems. Part was just under 100 bucks at Ford dealership, and to the parts guy surprise, and mine, they even had it in stock.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Excellent!

[@codypryor7974]

Thanks for making this video gave me the confidence to fix it myself part in Canada was $151.00 had it fixed within an hour.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Sweet, Hello to CAN! My wife is from Saskatoon.

[@jeffreybraun8925]

Great video. Followed your steps and had it done in no time at all.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@flisom]

Very helpful. Just changed out my harness.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@terenceproulx9559]

This worked to find/fix a broken wire which prevented my 2014 F-150 Supercrew rear door lock from working - thanks!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@theodoredaschner1849]

This is the best video that I have seen on this problem. Very helpful.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Wow, thanks!

[@ToddBossaller]

Yes, great video , thank you. I ordered both harnesses for our 2010 F150 rear doors.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Nice 👍

[@thatdudegage5764]

Thank you sir! Finished it in 45min very informative.

[@bigguydiy2184]

That is awesome! Way faster than me. Waiting on the passenger door wire harness to fail. :-)

[@kellycawood1729]

Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make this!

[@bigguydiy2184]

I'm very happy it's helping a lot of people. That was the goal.

[@WRecKLeSS801]

Thanks for this video. Gotta do this soon.

[@user-dt3ol5jm4l]

I found 4 broke wires and 1 almost broken

[@martinscanlon9423]

Thanks for creating that video, it is very clear, and makes me confident I can complete this on my 2011 F150 with the same issue. I was most worried about disconnecting the existing coupler, but you showed that nicely. I got my harness from my local Ford dealer, was quoted a lot more than I could find on-line, but immediately they dropped the price by 40% to compete, so with no postage to pay, I came out ahead. I asked about the adhesive they use for the membrane, was told it is some kind of non-drying adhesive they have in the shop, not for sale. Not sure I'll find that, but will use your tape method if not.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Excellent! Glad it help.

[@martinscanlon9423]

@@bigguydiy2184 I got it done successfully at the weekend. I used this stuff from 3M called strip caulk to reattach the membrane.

[@matthewley6783]

Just opened mine up cause the window stopped working and I found 6 broken wires and 2 that had already been repaired

[@drs3055]

Thank you. I am not a mechanic. But, I think I can do this on my 2013 FX4. Great instruction.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Just take it slow, do not force anything and it will work out.

[@SmokinCheesus]

This was an informative video, thanks!

[@darrenstauffer1936]

Great detailed tutorial! I was able to complete this repair in about an hour.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Excellent! Thank you for watching and your support.

[@joeweihs2047]

May I ask where you brought the harness and what did you pay.?

[@bigguydiy2184]

Bought it from my Ford dealer and it was under $100 bucks.

[@t.rexxer5007]

Excellent how to vid! You saved me a lot of hair pulling! 🙏Liked and subscribed!

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped!

[@dougblack8933]

Thanks It helped a lot. Mine had several repairs already and the rod inside was bent. So I changed it today.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@bennybartender]

Part numbers???? Please

[@dougblack8933]

@@bennybartender call Ford with the last 8 of your vin. They are different depending on options

[@bigguydiy2184]

You are correct. Need the VIN to get the correct harness.

[@patrickhynes5743]

Thank you so much your vedio was very helpful

[@bigguydiy2184]

You are welcome

[@stemmentor9700]

I am going to repair again for the 2nd time- Same door- Hardly ever opened or used- I am contemplating repairing again or swap out the whole harness- aggravation or repaired the severed wire. Just don't know if I want to order OEM parts- as they seem to not last- Crazy how they engineer and design things today- And I don't want junk made in China You made my case to "replace" vice solder- and i solder- I am going to remove the stiff thing (I bought used) and my 2010 was like new- and can't figure out why minimum use causes this?

[@bigguydiy2184]

Age and material used degrades over time. Over the years, replacement parts that are made OEM do get better as technology gets better. I have found this with other parts I have replaced on my GMC Yukon where the water pump was upgraded to better bearings by the OEM, not after market. Ford wire harness I believe is US made.

[@damkoolaidkid]

Thanks for the video, just ordered two harnesses for my 2014 F150. It's a shame Ford charges what they do for the harness, especially knowing the root cause of the failure.

[@bigguydiy2184]

I have also seen this on my GMC Yukon and Subaru Outback. So, I have to say it's common but if the wires were too thick, they would not fit into tight places as well as having the flex needed for certain spots. I get it, it just sucks for the end user. Next repair on the Ford, cutting and replacing the under side of the running boards. Seven year old truck and I have a really bad rust issue. I'll take replacing wire harness any day.

[@colinnwn]

Mine broke right at where the stiffener ends. Im thinking it makes a point where the wire has to bend sharper, that it would only work if the stiffener inserted into the connector. Im gonna leave it out. Im going to depin the connector and use a low temp solder inside butt connector. I got tricked into thinking my problem was the door lock motor. It wasn't after that work. Then found this problem.

[@brolanlaurier9610]

Great video. Same door, similar problem. I had 5 broken wires... Pulled the whole harness and replaced a bunch of it. First sign was the door ajar light once in a while, and crackling from all 4 speakers when turned up. Wondering how bad the other doors are now.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Thanks for sharing

[@brolanlaurier9610]

@@bigguydiy2184 yea I thought that speaker sounded low, but I didn't think one speakers wiring could effect the whole system.

[@juanrobledo8161]

Goooood👍

[@RoyCadow]

Thanks for the info. your truck looks like mine but for some reason the harness in my rear door does not match. The cab side rubber boot does not have a clip as the clip goes inside the cab wall and I think I have to remove the wall panel between front and rear door on the inside so I can get to the wire harness clip. I can't believe my 2014 crew cab is not findable on the Internet or Ford. I don't know why mine is so different than others. I am looking for a part number on the harness inside my truck, no luck so far.

[@bigguydiy2184]

Well that stinks. Best of luck on getting it repaired!

[@larrycoulson9050]

I kinda think that plastif lining is not necessary? It must be to quite down interior road noise? What do you think about leaving it off?

[@bigguydiy2184]

It is actually a "vapor barrier" Anywater that leakes in from the window (in which there is a lot) is stopped by the liner from getting into the truck. So, yes, it is important to reinstall and secure it well.

[@larrycoulson9050]

@@bigguydiy2184 Thx! for the quick reply. I will put it back on as instructed...

[@mathiasterrazas516]

Do you think ordering the part on Amazon would work as well instead of taking the part to ford and waiting for a replacement to come in?

[@bigguydiy2184]

If the part# matches. I would not shop for a generic wire harness that sais "Fits F150s..... and other truck models", you want the part to be an exact match by the part#. If that match is on Amazon, go for it.

[@stevenfiorito5107]

Thanks. Needed this. I'm waiting for my harness to come via Amazon. Mine was $45.00 for a 2011 F-150 so I'm hoping it's right since it's quite a bit cheaper than the one you got?

[@bigguydiy2184]

Glad it helped

[@grantandjoannabilly440]

Looked like a different part number in the video that you got. I saw caa in it. Did you have the new part number

[@bigguydiy2184]

I brought in the old harness to the Ford dealer and the new part# I think superseded the old one. Common practice on older parts.

[@micahhopper346]

Where did you order the harness from and what is the part #

[@bigguydiy2184]

I ordered it directly from my local Ford Dealer. I needed the VIN number but I also brought in the actual part which still had the part number sticker attached. I do not have the part number on hand, but I believe I show it in the video.

[@RailmanKC]

How do we keep this wiring harness from breaking again? Does anybody have an idea?

[@bigguydiy2184]

You can't by design. If they used a softer but way more strands of copper wire, it would last longer. The current wire is too stiff. Damned if you do damned if you don't scenerior. Thicker copper wire carries current/amps better than multiple strands...

[@RailmanKC]

@@bigguydiy2184 thanks!

[@Spad68]

How much was the harnesses.

[@bigguydiy2184]

I can't remember exactly but it was around 80 bucks.

[@RK-kn1ud]

Don't be so certain about having that new harness lasting you another 8 years. I am on my 4th harness in 10 years. This time it's the passenger power mirror constantly moving downward...probably because it's getting power from a nearby broken wire. 4 harnesses in 150k miles is ridiculous. I've had 3 other vehicles go ~400k miles with no harness issues. Ford should be ashamed of their poor engineering.

[@bigguydiy2184]

So far, just this one harness has gone bad. I have 165K milles. But, now my radio does random searches even though I picked a station to listen too. I will say, the F150, at least mine, for this year, is much easier to work on then my past GMC Yukon. GMC ties everything to their computer (ECU) so any switch, dash work, etc, the computer has to be flashed everytime. With the F-150, window switch goes, just replace it. No computer flashing.