2015 Chevy Traverse ( Repaired reduced power )

[@richardricknorwood6510]

I used this fix to correct an overheating problem on my 2014 Traverse LS. The Dealership and a local Garage could not find the problem. My passenger side Radiator Fan would intermittently stop working. I thought it was a dead fan. The local Garage wanted $1500 USD to R&R the Fan Assembly. After watching this video, I checked the 2 bolts and found them to be loose. After I installed home made “C” washers under each bolt head, and the bolts tightened right up. I started the engine and the fans started working normally again!!!

[@ward9716]

Thank you. I am so upset I could spit. The money and time I have spent tracking down my weird electrical problems and the bolts spin like you described. I never thought to take that box apart. What engineer does not catch that error in construction. Hey, thanks man!

[@davidk6029]

Thank you for the video. One of my screws was loose. Tightened it up and the car started right up. Not all heroes wear capes.

[@137kadyn]

Your car wouldn't start or just had low engine power?

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

I just did the repair on one that had the instrument panel flashing. I have found them doing all sorts of things had one up to 18 different codes. Check yours it’s not hard.

[@ncfiredude43]

OMG !!! you're my HERO !! I've been chasing a intermittent misfire on 2-4-6 for two weeks on a 2010 buick enclave. The car quit running for a friend over a year ago. I've dpent about 600 dollars on used pcm,bcm and fuel module AND a 200 trip to a dealer that got it running... anyhooo...I saw your video and the screws were LOOSE. I cut washers and installed them ... tahhhh dahhhhh no more misfires..THANK YOUUUUUUU !!

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

Don’t feel bad it took me 6 weeks to find it. I’m glad it helped.

[@explodingdynamite5535]

Wow you know what you are a genius! I am not a mechanic and am a single mom. I spent $700 for a new fuse box and installed it but the bolts on mine are loose too. When I replaced it it worked great but not that it’s probably loose I’m having more issues. Time to fix the bolts 😩

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

I’m curious why did you replace the fuse box? I’m glad I could help.

[@explodingdynamite5535]

@@cookingintheshopwithmark1222 I replaced the fuse box because I found a KZbin video of someone that had similar issues and they changed it out and it fixed their problem.

[@mr.veteran22]

This is huge! This situation is so unsafe. I’m so glad that you solved it with this simple solution. I have this same problem on my 2014 Buick Enclave and I’ll do this first thing in the morning. I’ll keep you updated with my results. Thank you for the video.

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

We just had a 2013 Buick enclave that had the fuse box problem. It was in the shop for a power steering pump but it had the same fuse box as the traverse. I checked the bolts that pull the plugs up and they would not tighten they just spun. So I cut two lock washers for spacers and pull them up where they seated in the fuse box. You could tell they weren’t seated because when I put the spacers in and tightened the bolts you could hear the plug pulling up.

[@137kadyn]

Did it work?

[@mr.veteran22]

Yes, I haven’t had a problem since.

[@137kadyn]

Nice!! I'm trying tomorrow morning myself

[@ateam6486]

OMG 2015 Traverse at my shop. New throttle and gas pedal. OMG YES the fuse box bolts was lose. Totally fixed now. No more cods and no more reduced power warning.

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

It was definitely a head scratcher. Glad it worked out for you. How did you repair it with spacers under the original bolts or new bolts with more threads?

[@rickpittenger2050]

Awesome!!! Worked for me after I replaced the TBS and the Accelerator Sensor, the problem came right back. Did your little trick and Wala!!! Fixed!!! Thank you for putting this video up! Its the only one I found to correct this problem!! 7/28/24

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

You’re welcome I’m glad it worked for you. Sorry it took so long to respond I’m closing my shop Retiring.

[@rickpittenger2050]

@@cookingintheshopwithmark1222 Good for you! I'm retired too! Hope you have some good hobbies and enjoy your retirement!

[@jordanjustice6392]

Had the same issue with my 2015 traverse, the issue actually caused pre mature wear on my battery, causing it to need replaced too. I did thr same thing and checked the codes and seen they where all related to the same wiring harness connector. So I checked the tightness of the bolt realized it was extremely loose, so loose the bolt wouldnt even tighten up since the connector had came so loose. Explains why the vehicle would through a code or go into limp mode when or soon after hitting a small bump randomly. Judt check to see if there was a video on it, just encase i needed to make one to help somebody out. Thanks for the video!

[@richardricknorwood6510]

Oh and Thanks a million for posting this! It is truly a blessing!

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

We used KZbin a lot to get ideas on what’s wrong with different cars and I never had an original fix until this one. I’m glad I finally got one and it could help you.

[@Zeusx177]

I checked my bolts and they were loose. I think this is definitely the issue. Thank you!!! 🙏

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

You’re very welcome glad I could help.

[@yousefalghamdi8347]

Thank you for the this channel.. I have question not relevant to the issue you are fixing here.. Since the fuse box layout is clear on this video, can you help me how to change the dc fuse so the cigar lighter doesn’t work 24/7 but only once the car starts up? I have seen other chevy and GMC videos which shows how to do it but unfortunately they were on different models that have different fuse box.. Many thanks for the help

[@tonyfreeman5048]

Great information thank you

[@daytripers8933]

I don't see how that fixes it. The bolt should spin freely until it pulls the connector all the way up and the connector bottoms out against the fuse box. Since the connector can't spin around underneath unlike a nut would if you were not holding it with a wrench. The blot should tighten up if the threads are not stripped once the connector bottoms out up against the fuse box. The way I ended up fixing mine was I bought longer bolts at HomeDepot and put loctite on the threads to keep them from coming lose. with the longer bolts it insured me that they were actually catching the threads on the connector. Once the connectors bottomed out the bolts stoped spinning and I was able to tighten them up nice and tight. The only other thing I can think of is if the nuts are spinning free within the connector. The connector can't spin around but the nut can if it broke free and is spinning within the connector. either way the issue is that the connector works its way lose and starts to lose contact. Hopefully what we both did works and the issue is now fixed. thanks for the video it confirmed that all those codes were caused by a bad connection at the fuse box.

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

The threads on the bolts in my fuse box were too long. When I say too long I mean the threads went through the nut in the connector and stopped pulling because the bolt after the thread was under sized and it would not pull the connector all the way up before it’s threads went past the nut to the undersized no threaded part. All I can figure is if you got regular bolts you didn’t have this problem. I was just happy that I found this and it fixed it. It had been to two dealers and countless shops before we got cursed with it. Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching.

[@daytripers8933]

Thanks for clarifying that. My brain went on the track that they were to short and not catching enough thread. Didn't even cross my mind that they were too long. The ones I bought have threads all the way so I should be fine then. I was worried that it might be that the nut is lose within the connector. I can rest easier knowing it's the bolts that are to long and not an issue with the nut in the connector. I will like and subscribe to your channel. @@cookingintheshopwithmark1222

[@tuckerbingo2491]

How did u get the bolts out?

[@israrhussain2107]

Thanks

[@joshuabarr6511]

Gonna give it a try, thanks

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

Check the two bolts, if they spin and don’t tighten put spacers under the heads until they can be tightened. After you space them up listen while you tighten them sometimes you can hear the plugs pulling up in the fuse box.

[@JoeLeggett-t2x]

I just had the exact problem.

[@travislintelman555]

Thanks for the video. What did you use to cut the washers?

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

Emory wheel on a dremel

[@astrokid555]

Silly question, if I am just checking tightness of existing 2 bolts in existing fuse box, do i need to disconnect negative battery terminal?

[@cowboymetalandwood4965]

No

[@tuckerbingo2491]

Noticed on my acadia the bolts do not tighten they spin freely and I had lost partial power once... 🤔 Are you saying they should be fully tight?

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

yes they should tighten and not spin freely. On the one in the video I cut a 1/4” lock washer into a horse shoe slipped it under the heads of the two bolts and that was enough to tighten the plugs up with the bolts. The problem is they run out of threads before they pull the plugs all the way into the fuse box. One guy got new bolts that were threaded from the tip to the head.

[@tuckerbingo2491]

My wife just called and said engine won't start, I told her to jiggle/ push in the wires (connecting to the same fuse box) and it started right up. I guess this would have something to do with the bolts not being tight enough, no?

[@heathnunley502]

Genius

[@ronfowler9563]

Would your cause clicj and no start in the engine and p062f?

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

It’s been my experience that it can cause about 16 different things at least did your bolts spin as soon as you tried to tighten them?

[@toddp239]

This worked for me thanks!

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

It was a bear for me to find glad it helped you.

[@FloridaMan7337]

Please edit your title to include the related codes so it's easier to find this video. P1682 and C0242, etc...

[@STUNT4516]

Could this lead to weak battery issure?

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

I can’t answer that for you because on this particular truck we were not having that issue so it wasn’t something we were looking at.

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

What is going on with your battery?

[@STUNT4516]

I have same issue with reduce power ,the last time it happend my battery was completely dead and had to replace it. Now the battery gauge shows 11v.instead of 14v . . I tested the alternator ealier today batery was to low to test .

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

Have you checked the fuse box bolts to see if they will tighten up. If they won’t tighten either replace them with all threaded bolts or do like the video and make spacer to go under the heads of the fuse box bolts. If you have got that fixed check the connections in the box and the plug to see if a terminal might be burnt from not being engaged fully. If everything is okay engine idling voltage should be 13.5 to 14.3. If you have got that idling but 11 eng off battery might be going bad check battery voltage when cranking should be 9.5 to 10.

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

Pull the cable ends off and check connections also.

[@brandonnguyen1486]

2015 same as the 2014?

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

If your fuse box looks like the one in the video yes. We’ve done this fix on a Buick enclave also.

[@anthonymurphy969]

Thank you because i think my 2017 buick enclave may have a weird problem like that one you just described, i am going to try it,will let you know!

[@cookingintheshopwithmark1222]

Did it fix it?

[@anthonymurphy969]

@@cookingintheshopwithmark1222 I think I told you I went on an did the 70,000 mile maintenance, the problem that I ended up having was, I replaced the fuel rail sensor, an even after I had replaced it I was still getting the ck engine light, the abs an stabiltrak, I had replaced the fuel rail sensor with a GM part, it was either a COVID part, made during that time or a faulty part, replaced it with a Bosch part an road tested fine, been driving great,no problems ,an with everything I did save well over 1,000 dollars, so good deal there!