2015 F150 3.5 ecoboost VVT solenoid P0015 P0017 DO THIS FIRST Camshaft position sensor

[@brudyscalderon5234]

Omg you just saved me a few hundred dollars, I just did it on my truck and it fixed the issue right there… thanks a lot brother….

[@stevedaff9774]

Excellent video and advice! I was having the same issue with my 2019, F150 3.5 ecoboost. it was going into limp mode and throwing me the same codes mentioned here. Three days ago, I followed your steps in the video, and since then, it has been running great. We have pulled a couple of 7,000 to 8,000lb loads over the last few days, and still no check engine light or limp mode. It's great to have the power back. Thanks again!

[@CodyContway]

I have a 2019 with the 3.5. It was throwing the p0021 code. I was going to take it to ford to have them look at it after being quoted 7-900! Dollars to replace the VVT solenoid. I hooked up two wires to the battery in the truck, put them to the “bad solenoid”, tapped the one connected to the power a few times until I heard it start to click, I put the connector back on and tried the one to the exhaust and heard it clicking the first bump, so I think it as stuck and this jumped it. Engine light is off, no more rough idling, we’ll see but I think this did the trick!! Thank you so much you saved me some money bro. 🤞🏼

[@DuaneWilder-zj8we]

Truck started acting identical to issues described on the way back from FL… power loss, rough idle, etc. Prior to seeing this video - changed oil to Mobil 1 synthetic, replaced cam shaft sensors, but no improvement. Found this video and replicated manual firing solenoids - and reset codes. At 185k, running just like new again! Thank you for sharing!!!

[@OlivierJardine]

Same issues with my 2015 F150 with the 3.5 EcoBoost, your advice saved me a $5900 bill at the Ford dealer who wanted to do an entire primary timing chain overhaul for these symptoms and a P0016. Activated the Bank 1 sensor A intake and swapped all 4 Cam sensors and haven't had an issue since. Grand total was $110 off Rockauto and your wonderful video, thank you good sir from Chinada 🤠

[@MNs_F150]

What do you mean by activate bank 1 sensor?

[@MNs_F150]

I did what the guy did in the video and still having the same issue. Any advice?

[@OlivierJardine]

Activate the (bank 1/passenger sensor A/intake) solenoid by grounding it out with a closed circuit to the battery and the original OEM electrical pigtail off. Tap the contact for .5 sec don't hold it for too long as to not burn out the solenoid. You should hear an audible click, when you do hear that click you activated the solenoid. I would do that procedure several times to free up the stuck solenoid, but remember not to hold the current to the solenoid for more than 0.5 sec at a time. Make sure not to short out the solenoid between its terminals either. I also replaced all 4 Camshaft position sensors ( MOTORCRAFT Part number DU102) Rockauto for $120 all in. I hope that helps 🤠 I also tested the the voltage at the Intake solenoid pigtail with the engine running and the truck sent ~4-6 V of current to that solenoid so sending the full 12V of the battery to it as mentioned above sure will get it moving

[@MNs_F150]

@@OlivierJardine are those sensors all the same? I believe 3.5 has two exhaust and two intake sensors right?

[@MNs_F150]

@@OlivierJardine I activated them all and they all clicked. Still no difference /:

[@TyWoodring]

Thank you so much! I have a 2016 F150 3.5L Ecoboost throwing the same codes and running terrible. I cycled both solenoids on Bank1 using the truck battery about 10 times each. Cranked it and it ran like new. Cleared the codes and it’s been fine since. Thank you!

[@kylefisher1040]

How do you cycle the solenoids?

[@chasechevy8933]

​@@kylefisher1040......unplug them and supply 12v dc power to the two solenoid pins on and off several times

[@SnookFlash]

An exceptional video. Your presentation is a systematic explanation of an intelligent, insightful thought process. And the illustrations you made using your engine are invaluable for part location and identification. Many thanks!

[@Fred-lg9cp]

Thanks to your persistence to figure this out you have saved many of us money and worry. Thanks for your knowledge and willingness to share.

[@cameronhoward8306]

2014 3.5L eco boost 1 day after oil change all of sudden rough idle and same check engine codes described. Did exactly what you did jumped the 2 solenoids on left first couple times didn’t hear anything and then maybe the 5th time of tapping on + I started hearing them move. Rough idle went away and cleared codes. Thank you very much for this quick fix! Note oil was just over full line drain 1/3 qt out to just below before jumping solenoids may have contributed to them sticking.

[@TuanTran-zp8bt]

fixed mine with it today follow your steps. Although I wish I have seen your video first before changing all spark plugs, ignition coil and camshaft sensor.

[@timgravert5399]

Thank you for sharing. My meter has a test for the VVT bank 1 and VVT bank 2. Having this issue I was getting a fail on bank 1. After cycling these 20 times each bank 1 passed. I really appreciate this. You made my day good buddy. If you are ever in Greeley Colorado I own you a cold one. Tim

[@jjlee101084]

Man this worked. Thank you so much brother. Saved me 2800 or 4500 mechanic bill.

[@marcisdavidson9996]

Thank you for posting. Had a thought the solenoid might be the problem on my 2017 Expedition. Tried this and the solenoid started moving again. Only been a day but time will tell if this lasts. Was starting to fear timing chain might be needed. This is much better news. I followed almost the same path as you. First did the cam position sensor and that didn't help. My idle wasn't just a little rough though, it was really bad barely running. Ran like a top after this

[@bcortez80]

Dude! I had to come on here and thank you. My 2016 3.5 was doing the exact same thing 2-3days after an oil change. Rough idle, throwing codes (1st) P0390, P0394- cam shaft position sensor. Couldn't get the right sensor (3 prong NOT 2). Finally got it, Didn't fix it, then threw P0015, P0017. Found your video, had the same mind set, f*#! the dealer. Tried your solution using the truck's battery until I heard clicking. Running smooth so far!!! Thanks so much for posting! I'll keep you updated!

[@juniorv0787]

Which one is negative and positive on the connection

[@bcortez80]

@@juniorv0787 it was a shot in the dark for me but both intake and exhaust solenoids had a solid green wire, then the other wire was like white with blue stripe, on one and brown with pink stripe, on the other. So I figured those were the signal/positive wire, while the consistent solid green were the ground.

[@kylemanning3207]

Polarity doesn't matter on these solenoids. The only thing you need to make sure is you don't short the two pins together while connecting the battery.

[@AUTOBROZ780]

hey brother thank you so much , i did valve cover gaskets and a vacuum pump on a truck and it acted crazy after, it was 1.5L low on oil. i cycled the solenoids like you suggested and now the truck runs perfect now. saved my ass thank you so much from Canada

[@stevied5648]

what was your symptoms? tapping after warm up? Mine is running fine until warm and then starts tapping and misfiring.

[@AUTOBROZ780]

@@stevied5648 something like that yeah. Idled like shit and ran bad

[@stevied5648]

@@AUTOBROZ780 thanks for the reply. So it didn’t do it upon startups and first few min of driving?

[@AUTOBROZ780]

@@stevied5648 I honestly can't remember all the symptoms but it just ran very bad. I topped it off with oil and cycled the solenoids on the bank setting the code.

[@kylemanning3207]

Great video, I had the p0018 and p0021 codes on my 2018 f150 3.5 with 50k miles. I did what you said and cycled the solenoids and one actually seemed to be stuck and then started working. I cycled each one 15-20 times and after a 20 mile drive the code didnt come back and the idle is smooth. Fingers crossed!! Ill keep you posted!

[@lanehart3486]

I’m Having the same codes, the problems comes and goes and it’s not repetitive but I’m gonna do that tomorrow and hopefully that will clean them solenoids and I won’t have any bad rough idle, I’ll keep updating the process

[@kylemanning3207]

@@lanehart3486 it ended up coming back. I replaced both of the solenoids on the driver's side and the truck has been perfect for about 6 months.

[@chaddriggers5120]

I've been going through the exact same thing (including getting the wrong sensor from the parts store) Thank you!

[@timothydenton8493]

It actually worked. You are that man. Thanks for doing this.

[@kindsasquatch9086]

kindred spirit here. I have a 2018 and the issue I'm having sounds very very similar to yours, right down to dissatisfied experiences with the dealership. Thanks for posting this video and for the thoughtful, methodical explanation. I hope your fix fixes mine too, going to try it tomorrow. Cheers from Canada!

[@stevied5648]

How’d it go Kevin? Hope it worked

[@michaelgonzaga3459]

Dude, thank you for taking the time to share this. Having a similar issue and I’m going to try this

[@BarryFlatoff]

This fixed my truck. Thanks for posting👍👍👍

[@ufgators2006]

Thanks bro, this also worked on my 2020 Ford F150 with DTC code P0025. Thanks again

[@stevied5648]

what was your symptoms? tapping after warm up? Mine is running fine until warm and then starts tapping and misfiring.

[@henryjones4709]

Great info having the same issue and hate dealerships. Thanks.

[@MrTaylorfenoglio]

Ty very much. Oil filters are probably more important than oil brand itself

[@michaelcarnahan5842]

Ima give this a try, I have a 2018 f150 3.5 that has been running like a champ then random on start up I have codes p0345 and p0349 has a rough idle in start up and levels out but doesn’t make a single rattle or anything just a lack in acceleration aswell, obviously these codes say bank 2 sensor A camshaft position sensor replaced it and same codes,will post a updated when I’ve done it 🤙🏻 65k miles on it btw

[@BURNTKNIGHT23]

Did you figure it out. My truck has 73k miles

[@michaelhendrickson8468]

Wow I have a 2019 5.0 and I’m going through the identical thing right now. It’s been to the dealership multiple times. It just ran out of the power train warranty by maybe 2 thousand miles if that. The first time I had the identical codes and identical issues. They said I was a quart low of oil and they added oil and for me to keep a better eye on my oil level. They cleared the codes and said if I still have the problem it’s cam phasers.

[@_willalexander.88]

It's typical to be a quart low after 5k miles. If you go longer on oil changes that might be the cause of blocked phasers. (Dirty oil) doing what I did will hopefully tell. Goodluck

[@precisiont5188]

So helpful. There is a reason why the dealerships are called stealerships. Either that or they are incompetent. A Ford dealership wouldn't admit a major poblem because they didn't want to honor the warranty.

[@jasonhorton6133]

I have a 2014 I changed the valve cover gaskets on and now I get the p0017 code . I changed the cam sensors and still have the code . Going to try this tomorrow and see if it works . Truck runs great and has never had a rattle or anything just leaking oil on the turbos is why I changed gaskets . Hope this works I don’t want to take it to a dealer either .

[@travisfries8311]

I'm going to try this on my 2014, which should have the same engine configuration, my only other thoughts is those solenoids have screens since they are also oil driven for camshaft adjustments, I saw somewhere that those screens plug up especially if you push the time frame on oil changes, mines just about due for a timing chain so I'm thinking if I can get them functional for the winter I can do the timing and all the parts to replace in the spring when I have time money and weather

[@jasoneddy8136]

First video I saw about this specific issue with this specific engine. I was about to replace the solenoid. I will do this first. Thanks.

[@MNs_F150]

Did it work ?

[@tomburns890]

Congrats and great video. I can’t stand taking my stuff to stealerships unless it’s the last resort. Sounds like you just shocking them unplugged it and got it working. I why does the cover have to be removed to get to them geez. Cheers

[@michaelpincavitch5245]

Thanks for your help! Good job!

[@gonzalochavez7542]

Bro I just spent almost 5 grand at at dealership, I had a similar code P0019 and they replaced all four cam phasers and that still didn’t fix the issue so I took it back and they replaced the solenoids for an extra $500. I feel like they new what it was from the beginning but replaced the phasers first because they knew that wasn’t going to fix the issue and that I was going to go back and charge me more money. I wish I would’ve seen this before I spent all that money

[@cdo450f]

Good to hear you fixed your problem yourself, not a fan of dealers either. I think my 3.5 is having the same issue. Did you have a ticking out of that side of engine & exhaust?

[@frederickstokes2600]

No response on either solenoid when positive and negative cables connected. That means?

[@frederickstokes2600]

2016 ford f150 3.5L eco boost

[@_willalexander.88]

@@frederickstokes2600 replace

[@coltongage587]

I’m having the same issues right now today watch your video and it was great thank you. But one question which of the two terminals on your VVT solenoid is your positive. Mind run up and down and the wiring into the back of the plug is green with a white and red stripped.

[@rickydowdenrd]

Thanks I very much appreciate the info

[@ubaidshaikh3406]

Great video, very helpful

[@vikchem]

Hello! How your truck engine work today? After 4 years?

[@lucada8538]

Did you have a rattling start up before the code popped up?

[@David-82]

Unfortunately not the same for me. Replaced the Solenoids and cam shaft sensors. Still have rough idle. And of course the dealer wants to replace everything to fix it.

[@frederickstokes2600]

What is everything?

[@David-82]

@frederickstokes2600 seems the motor ate a bearing or 12.... The metal ran throughout the motor gummed up the phaser before I heard knocking. So entire motor is ☠️

[@corndogspgh5500]

I have a 2011. Mine starts and idles fines no miss fires. But the p0017 clears but the next day comes back on. All I have is lack of power going up hill.

[@JamesMarshall-wc8ix]

I also have 2011, code P0016 bank 1 sensor A. No misses, runs fine but lack of power on hills and lackluster acceleration. Did you figure yours out?

[@rolandohiebert2144]

​@@JamesMarshall-wc8ixMine also runs fine with p0016 no rough idle but no boost and code p0299 low boost also shows up after a while but p0016 is the one that's back right away. Were you able to figure yours out?

[@MNs_F150]

Just had my turbos replaced in my 2013 3.5, I had the same codes pop up along with a underboost code, any help or advice?? You video helped a lot but anything else you can think of??

[@mattprice-o7w]

mine is throwing p0016 and p0019 but no rattle from the timing chain at cold start up?

[@johna7450]

Thanks bud. Very helpfull

[@Robert-zn9ub]

So you basically had a sticking VVT Solenoid. Usually a sign that it could be time to change them. Glad you got your baby going without being robbed by the Stealership.

[@MrVideoyoulike]

Any videos to fix P0016. VcT bank 1? I was getting a intermittent low oil pressure light then it stopped then the check engine light went on.

[@tonytafoya2190]

Camshaft position sensor was there a special one for the exust vs the intake or are all the sensors the same ? cause after i put the new one then gas smelll comes into play so i was wondering if you got a special sensor for each a and b casue i cant find one

[@HuskerRed11]

Did you get it figured out? Which one is the exhaust & which one is the intake?

[@tonytafoya2190]

@@HuskerRed11 i think i figured out that i bought the wrong one like he said he did they must have the items mixed up at the auto parts store because they were all the same on the passenger side there was no difference on my truck 2013 fx4 i didnt not do the drivers side but id guess its the same story !

[@curtis517]

Do you use Lucas Synthetic stabilizer additive? I just did my last oil change 500 miles ago, and these Selnoids are sticking on my car now also. Not sure if Lucas is the cause. That is why I'm asking.

[@jimsullivan306]

WHICH SOLENOID TERMINAL IS POSITIVE AND WHICH IS NEGITIVE?

[@cheizaguirre5494]

I have a 2014 3.5 with 112,000 k. can i replace the VVT even tho nothing wrong with them just I’m going to replace the valve gasket i figure might as well since it’s already have it open?

[@curtis8559]

did you repeat on all four solenoids?

[@srtdonmega]

Did this problem ever return having the same issue with my 2018 put bank 2 p0022.

[@_willalexander.88]

Never did

[@srtdonmega]

@@_willalexander.88 ok I’ll give it a shot hopefully it works for me too. Thanks for the reply 🤝

[@MNs_F150]

⁠@@_willalexander.88hey I’m having the same issues as you are, got my turbos replaced due to them needing to be. Now the shop says it’s a timing chain. I just tested the solenoids and they all clicked like you said they would. Drove my truck and still have the issue. It’s hard for the truck to get from 1st to 2nd, it’s like there’s no power to get there but eventually it shifts. Any help please!

[@johnryan2772]

The tech told me the VVT was inside the engine and since my truck has 170 on it and they don't want to do with it and I need a new engine. Help?

[@johnlegg6837]

Will this work for a P0014 code as well?

[@branonleonard2914]

So u just cycled the solenoids and didn’t replace any? Just making sure before I spend money lol

[@_willalexander.88]

Exactly. It's a troubleshooting step to verify functionality.

[@wolffemergencyresponsellc.3152]

How long did it take you to do this?

[@zackvanblaricum4585]

I’m having troubles finding the 3.5 with the metal valve covers anybody got any videos or anything?

[@jakob-dg9mz]

I have a 2021 mustang gt with these exact 2 codes my car is running super rough like it’s cammed, this should do the trick I’m it too huh?

[@jakob-dg9mz]

Dealership said I need to replace vct solenoids and all 4 can phasers

[@_willalexander.88]

Won't hurt to try! What they told me to. Goodluck

[@drew131978]

Did polarity matter when testing the selonoids

[@curtis8559]

I have the same question.

[@stangohr]

@@curtis8559 Don't matter!

[@innocentukairo7671]

Thanks a lot

[@kbrown4023]

Did you cycle the solenoids still in the truck or did you pull them and cycle them on bench?

[@_willalexander.88]

Still in the truck. I did it that way bc on the 3.5 you need to pull the valve cover. On the 2.7 there external and accessible.

[@kbrown4023]

@@_willalexander.88 thank you the 2.0 you have to pull cover also. I will give this a shot

[@tonynevarez3836]

So the battery pretty much reset the solenoids or did you replace a solenoid’s? Thanks again for the video dealer said they want $3500 to do the Cam phasers so will definitely try this first I have 2020 f150 5.0 but has rattle with cam position codes

[@jakob-dg9mz]

@@tonynevarez3836did it fix it ?

[@richardgarcia8693]

So the problem was only trouble shooting the solenoids?

[@_willalexander.88]

The problem was a solenoid that was somehow blocked up. Troubleshooting it released the blockage and corrected the issue.

[@Thebunholio]

So was the solenoid stuck?

[@123edp]

❤

[@Xander15208]

Changed all 4 solenoids on mt 3.5l 2013 explorer....same issue, actually a little worse....probably my darn phasers.....

[@michaelhendrickson8468]

Is there a way to do this through forscan?

[@_willalexander.88]

No. That's software. This is hardware.

[@jmainesmithsr5936]

Thanks

[@BigDaddysPlati]

And here I am doing oil changes at 3000😂

[@willisg333]

So just running the test on the Solenoids, solved the problem ?

[@_willalexander.88]

Exactly

[@willisg333]

@@_willalexander.88 So by putting the 12 V current to them and essentially cycling the solenoids you reset the sensors. I'll def, try it. Thanks . Ive got a P0022 Code on my 2018 3.5 Ecoboost, no rattle, no rough idle, just no power, kinda hesitates. Def. a Cam is being retarded back by the faulty sensor or solenoid.

[@_willalexander.88]

@@willisg333 this test verifies the solenoid is working so you can cross that off. I think some trash was causing a blockage but TBD. I change my oil every 5k. All I know is it worked. GL

[@OgFarrow]

I wish it fixed my issue lol

[@Roy-ij1wq]

Using the right oil and filter makes a big difference. Check out this video to see why. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIjcd6Kver2nqqM I had the notorious cam phaser rattle on my 2015 Expedition and got rid of it with five oil changes every 5 ,000 miles using either Mobil 1 full sythetic or Penzoil full synthetic with the OEM Ford Motocraft filter. At first I had to flood start the engine by pressing the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine until the oil pressure read normal. This eliminated the rattle at startup. Eventually, the rattle went away and I no longer have to flood start it. I'm now having the same issue with a lack of power and slow speed idle and similar codes and will be using this method to troubleshoot the issue.

[@_willalexander.88]

Mobile 1 full synthetic and mobile 1 filter every 5k. Reason I was stumped.

[@WattHowar-e9i]

Clark Betty Martin Patricia Davis Jessica

[@tonygant7177]

Too much unnecessary information.