2016 Ecodiesel fuel pump fuse and TIPM integrated relay bypass for “no power to fuel pump” condition

[@richleskovec4075]

I have the ODBII with phone app. I have to look if fuel pressure is in the data to view. I do have the AphaODB program on my PC. I don’t know if I can view the runtime data with it.

[@whocarezbj6152]

Hey Brother, I really enjoy your content. I've got a 14 Grand Cherokee Overland with the 3.0 Ecodiesel. So, needless to say, I find your videos quite helpful. After watching this video, I'd like to throw in a bit of info. Back in October of last year, I started having lift pump issues. I'll skip all the long drawn out drama I went through and jump straight to the meat & potatoes! After replacing my lift pump with a brand new Mopar lift pump, my lack of fuel issues popped up again about 2 months later. I dropped my tank again and found that the ground pin in the lift pump plug had actually began to melt.... causing it to heat up and short out. Causing random crank / no start scenarios as well as random stalling out while driving. This was my culprit the entire time. I was so disgusted for not checking this plug in detail while I had the tank dropped the first time while replacing my lift pump. I am used to seeing this kind of stuff on most 99 and up GM / Chevrolet full size trucks and SUVS. This was a first for me, seeing this kind of thing on Jeep / Chrysler / Mopar vehicles. You would think, after all the pigtails I've replaced on GM vehicles, I would pay more attention to the plugs on ALL fuel pumps, no matter the manufacturer. Anyway, just wanted to thank you for making such great, detailed videos. As well as throw my .02 cents out there for others that may come across similar situations. Hopefully save someone else some of the headache that I went through diagnosing my problem.... Also, one more thing. There is ANOTHER fellow youtuber that has a video that found VERY helpful!! Can't remember the channel name, but he goes into detail about how his fairly low mile Ram / Ecodiesel developed LOW to NO OIL pressure problems. He decided to drop his lower oil pan and discovered his oil pump pick up tube COMPLETELY STOPPED UP with SOOT / SLUDGE. My oil pressure warning flickered, I immediately took my Jeep straight to my shop and dropped my lower pan.... wanna guess what I found?!?! THE EXACT SAME SHIT! So, thats where I am at RIGHT this minute. Its easy to clean out, I will have her back up and running first thing in the morning. I have a strong feeling that this is the root cause of all the ECODIESELS mysteriously blowing / locking up due to oiling problems.... Just throwing that out there! Thanks!

[@tadsworkshop]

Appreciate the kind words. I haven’t seen the fuel pump connector issue on this era of Chrysler vehicles but anything is possible! That would’ve been easy for anyone to overlook. As far as the soot choking up the oil sump - also really great to know. The ecodiesel engine rebuilder in Mexico, Enrique Peters, claims there isn’t enough interference fit in between the crank main bearings and caps, allowing them to easily get spun. I’m actually sitting on two trucks right now with spun main bearings. But, if the sumps are getting choked up with that oil/soot sludge, that would make sense! I appreciate you sharing the info. I haven’t come across a low oil pressure ecodiesel yet, but I’ll keep the oil sump blockage in mind.

[@lenstar01]

Tad you're so informative keep up the great work.

[@richleskovec4075]

Thank you. And this worked flawlessly? I’m watching another video and the guy says don’t use the blue connector, use the gray one with the blue/orange wire 🤦🏻‍♂️ 🤷🏻‍♂️ I am having this mess this week. I replaced fuel pump for bad level sensor. Now I have intermittent no starts 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@tadsworkshop]

@@richleskovec4075 yes, this truck in the video is being used every day by a local company. I’ll say this, aside from the burnt original fuse, I also found that the fuel pump connector on top of the tank was also damaged from heat caused by excessive electrical resistance. It was so bad I had to replace the connector/pigtail. That may have been a unique situation for this particular truck. Anyway, if you follow the blue wire with the orange tracer, it should lead towards the rear of the car, through the driver fender, from what I recall. I’m curious about the gray connector in the other video you’re watching. I’ll look at a wiring diagram today to see if there was a change throughout the years.

[@richleskovec4075]

@@tadsworkshop ​​⁠thank you so much for replying. My truck is a 2015 ram 1500 5.7 L I am stuck with this right now so thank you for speedy replies. I do appreciate it. OK I’m going to be trying to solve this today… I have no idea what’s wrong, but I replaced my fuel pump last week because of bad level sensors P0463 as I had indicated and it ran fine for four days And then I had engine trouble code P019D indicating fuel pressure sensor which I then replaced and then I had no codes. It ran fine so I thought I had solved it and then yesterday I have the same no start garbage so I got it towed home last night and will approach it today trying to jump her out the relay first of all and if that seems to work, then continue with adding a relay as you show because I have All the stuff handy to do it with

[@tadsworkshop]

@@richleskovec4075 that sounds very frustrating. Keep in mind, the truck in the video was equipped with a 3.0L diesel, and I would not put it past the manufacturer to have a different pin out and wiring layout at the fuse block for another engine configuration. I don’t have access to the wiring diagrams for a 2015 Ram otherwise I’d try to offer more help. So, with this trucks fuel pump power wire being the blue/orange on the blue connector - take that with a grain of salt. It’s possible that may not apply to the 5.7L Hemi version. Wish you the best of luck, hopefully you determine the cause today or make progress on it.

[@richleskovec4075]

@@tadsworkshop​​⁠right. I understand you’re is a diesel. I will look at other vids and try to research. At a minimum if the jumper method works, I can drive and it’s a temporary fix while I can definitively find a relay solution. I can hear the fuel pump run briefly and then stop when I turn the key to ACC. So the fuel pump I know is good and then kicks on and stops. So that’s not the problem. Ugh.

[@tadsworkshop]

@@richleskovec4075 I haven’t worked on a fuel pump issue for a Hemi of those years, but it’s always been the norm for a lot of cars for the fuel pump to cycle for a few seconds just to pressurize the fuel rail with the key on, and engine off. Do you have a scan tool to see what fuel pressure is at the rail? I would monitor that information while cranking and when you get the engine running.

[@SeanChristian-c5x]

Tad, there are 3 Pink and green wires in the black connector, how do I identify pin 28? I'm in the middle of doing this and thought there would only be one pink and green... thanks

[@tadsworkshop]

@@SeanChristian-c5x I’m going off my memory here, but if you look closely you should see some numbers at the end of each row of electrical pins. Look at both sides of the connector. Let me know if you still have trouble. Remember, it’s pink with a light green tracer. Also note you are tieing into that electrical wire. Not eliminate one side or another if that makes sense.

[@latitudenattitudeguy]

Where is your shop in Michigan.. I have a 2016 with this same situation. Like to have this procedure done to mine

[@brandonsmith9055]

Do u have a email or number u can be reached ?

[@fire26821]

would this by pass work on a 2017 dodge durango v6

[@tadsworkshop]

@@fire26821 I’d have to imagine the wiring colors, fuse locations, and connectors would be different.

[@ronaldc.4047]

@@tadsworkshopI’m working on a 2016 Durango and they’re the same. The issue I’m having now is the fuel pump is getting power, good ground , and level sensors working but the pump will not come on. It is an aftermarket pump maybe That’s the reason. I changed the pump before I seen the relay bypass fix.

[@tadsworkshop]

@ if your getting power and ground on the heavy gauge wires, the pump has to be defective. Make sure you are verifying this with a conventional test light, not a multimeter, voltmeter, or led testlight. If there is a 100 ohms of electrical resistance inline due to say, corrosion, the low impedance multimeter, led test light, etc will never show it. You need something to put a load on the circuit. A conventional test light imposes a 1 amp load which is sufficient enough to confirm power and ground.

[@richleskovec4075]

What is the pin # of the blue/orange power wire to the fuel pump?

[@tadsworkshop]

If you go to 6:33 in the video, you’ll see the snipped blue/orange wire. It comes out of the blue connector seen there. I do not remember or know the pin number off hand.

[@richleskovec4075]

@@tadsworkshop thank you

[@jc35957]

Ford has started doing the integrated fuel pump relay as well. As a mechanic, it's annoying asf.

[@tadsworkshop]

@@jc35957 twenty years of doing this and all I can say is, these machines are intended to exist within the duration of the warranty period and that really is it. Cars are built for profit margins, not the for the benefit of the consumer. And some engineering is so poor some cars can’t even get through their warranty period barely.