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@thehawkc Күн бұрын
Great video. My dealer is still waiting for that part , maybe one day ,four months in.
@xavytex 2 күн бұрын
Hi, I recently replace my intake manifold with a new one. I now have p200a and b codes due to a bad position or malfunction of the swirl valves. Is there a by-default position of the valves when transferring the payment electric motor from the old manifold to the one ? I didn’t realize at the time this could be important. I think the valves were closed when I installed the electric motor and when I see your video, yours are opened. But is it a problem ? Truck isn’t deleted. I wanted to replace the manifold while dealing with the turbo coolant hose. It made more sense to me to replace it instead of spending 2 days cleaning it. Thanks! Xavier
@tadsworkshop 2 күн бұрын
@@xavytex did you disconnect the battery during the process? Might be wise to disconnect the battery, let the truck sit for 10 minutes, and than reconnect. If you left the battery connected during that time, it’s possible the computer was expecting to see the valves in a certain position, and maybe it was slightly different in the new manifold, thereby setting the code. Try clearing the codes. Also, if you have a better scan tool, see if there is an option to relearn those swirl/mixture valves.
@xavytex Күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop Hi, I disconnected the battery once I started messing with the harness. I tried AlphaOBD. It has a function to test the swirl valves. It won’t let me perform the test “ECU has detected some values are out of range”. I’ll leave the battery disconnected overnight and see that does anything. Otherwise I’ll just take it appart again. Should be quicker the second time since every bolts are loose now. Thanks for your help !
@jeaniwilcox1136 2 күн бұрын
What about the one above the gas tank? Dealer says need to drop axle and tank to access.
@tadsworkshop 2 күн бұрын
@@jeaniwilcox1136 that’s probably true. I’ve never had to deal with it or look into it. But if it’s not under warranty, never take your car to the dealership. Find a local reputable shop. I can’t even begin to tell you how badly dealerships take advantage of their customers.
@latitudenattitudeguy 5 күн бұрын
Where is your shop in Michigan.. I have a 2016 with this same situation. Like to have this procedure done to mine
@arthurlewis605 5 күн бұрын
Thank you for your video….this helped me tremendously…thanks to your video it helped me fix a lady’s equinox that my wife works with thank you again God Bless You !!!
@tadsworkshop 5 күн бұрын
@@arthurlewis605 that’s what it’s all about! Saved you and the owner time and money hopefully. Thanks for the comment!
@dannyaustin7008 6 күн бұрын
I've got a stage 2 delete and I removed the swerl valves when I changed the turbo coolant hose and cleaned my intake but now I'm getting p200a/b codes is further tuning required or is there a quick fix for this?
@tadsworkshop 6 күн бұрын
@@dannyaustin7008 that’s in the tune itself. You should coordinate with whoever created that tune your using. I’m guessing they did not turn off monitoring of the swirl valve system.
@lewisboyd7977 6 күн бұрын
Great work man. Do you happen to have a parts list for this job?
@tadsworkshop 6 күн бұрын
@@lewisboyd7977 not a detailed parts list, but I mention a few things in the video description of what you should buy. I use the official mopar parts website to determine what part numbers are needed. Than order it from them or swing by your local dealer.
@lewisboyd7977 4 күн бұрын
Thanks. I don't know if you mentioned it or not but how long did this job take?
@tadsworkshop 4 күн бұрын
@@lewisboyd7977 that depends heavily on the person. It’s a big job, especially if you don’t have a lift. I’d allow yourself at least two focused days of working on it.
@lewisboyd7977 4 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop Thanks again. My buddy has a lift that I'm sure I can utilize. I spoke with another friend that is a parts manager at dodge. He said the parts would cost me about $1800cad. I also asked about install, the tech said 25 hours including the Reluctor wheel and sensor but he would do it for 20 hours @$180 per. They do it cab off though.
@tadsworkshop 4 күн бұрын
@@lewisboyd7977 damn, that is a lot of money. It’s a big job…but that’s a really generous hourly labor rate and an even more generous labor time. Just take your time and be thoughtful about what you’re doing. Replace the crankshaft sensor and reluctor ring (at least the reluctor ring) if you take the transmission out.
@huntkirby 7 күн бұрын
Hey Tad - I'm also in MI and digging into my own '16 Ecodiesel that I've owned since new. I'm learning about the EGR system and all the problems and have gotten to the point where I'm deciding what to do about the old intake and cleaning or replacing it. I'd love to talk more about it and what services you offer. Is there a way to get in touch with you?
@tadsworkshop 7 күн бұрын
@@huntkirby yes, call or text my at 810-300-8133. Write down this number, because I will delete this by the end of the day.
@hollyk4123 9 күн бұрын
Thank you!!
@bluesriot2 10 күн бұрын
carefully and thoughtfully …
@tadsworkshop 10 күн бұрын
@@bluesriot2 like anything else, if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right.
@jc35957 10 күн бұрын
Ford has started doing the integrated fuel pump relay as well. As a mechanic, it's annoying asf.
@tadsworkshop 10 күн бұрын
@@jc35957 twenty years of doing this and all I can say is, these machines are intended to exist within the duration of the warranty period and that really is it. Cars are built for profit margins, not the for the benefit of the consumer. And some engineering is so poor some cars can’t even get through their warranty period barely.
@Tillerycuriousgardening 11 күн бұрын
Hello, my name is Patrick. I have that Same engine I’m having a hard time finding parts. Can you tell me where to buy parts for the engine? And where do you get the engine stand?
@tadsworkshop 11 күн бұрын
@@Tillerycuriousgardening engine stand was a modified one intended for a typical small block chevy v8. It’s a Chevy 250 inline 6, so find a chevy model in the 60s/70s with that engine, and use that for sourcing parts, like your local auto parts store or rockauto. Mercruiser made the manifold, thermostat housing, and misc. parts related to that. Google “fel pro marine catalog pdf” to find an old Fel pro marine gasket catalog. You can use the part numbers from there to find the specialty gaskets related to the Mercruiser manifold system. Let me know if you need help with anything else.
@Tillerycuriousgardening 11 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop thank you for the info
@Tillerycuriousgardening 6 күн бұрын
Good evening what’s the part number on a carburetor?
@tadsworkshop 6 күн бұрын
@@Tillerycuriousgardening I don’t have a part number, but they are all over the place on eBay. It’s a Rochester 2G carburetor model I believe. Does not have to be marine per se. The carb in the video is a remanufactured carburetor from Autoline I believe. You might try a Chinese clone of the Rochester 2G that is all over the place…but be prepared to play with it. I remember there are two different mounting flange bolt patterns for a Rochester 2G, so also figure that out before you order a carb. If you really wanna be cool, and budget was no problem, I’d personally have fun fitting a Holley Sniper unit to make a fuel injected engine.
@robertoramunno970 13 күн бұрын
Did you have any problems with the engine hitting the cowel When lifting for clearance over front diff?
@tadsworkshop 13 күн бұрын
@@robertoramunno970 yes. It was very, very tight. It definitely rubbed on the cowl. That engine tilting tool was pretty critical in snaking it out. It was a pain, but ultimately I was able to remove and install the engine that way.
@PhillipBailey 15 күн бұрын
Thanks for the video! Just wish I'd seen it before I spent two hours diagnosing this crank no-start with no codes. I removed the entire throttle actuator as I could not tell which way the blade turned and it was jammed shut. My customer reported it ran perfect the day before and the next morning it was a crank no-start. I have a video on my channel and linked to yours. Its surprising that this is not mentioned as a possibility on Identifix. Do you have any idea what caused it to jam shut? Subbed!
@tadsworkshop 15 күн бұрын
@@PhillipBailey appreciate it! Mine was similiar situation, it was jammed close the following morning. This was a deleted truck, not sure if yours was. I also spent more time than I care to admit, chasing other ideas before I found the faulty throttle body.
@wiztowers9666 16 күн бұрын
Great job but was really looking to see what engine can replace the eco diesel after its recall
@g.simard854 17 күн бұрын
would you recommand replacing the expansion valve at the same time ? is it necessary ?
@tadsworkshop 17 күн бұрын
@@g.simard854 I would recommend replacing it at the same time. Not absolutely necessary, but a smart move while you are there.
@g.simard854 17 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop thanks for the quick reply !👍
@antoniogonzalez2246 18 күн бұрын
Nice. Saved my ass. Thanks.👍
@tadsworkshop 18 күн бұрын
@@antoniogonzalez2246 glad to hear it!
@adairjanney7109 18 күн бұрын
one last question I think. So I finally got a compression tester and so my plan is to go back out there sometime today when its cooler, put the old chain back on without the tensioner or guides, attached the compressioner tester to cyl 1 and turn the crank until it gets to the marks as outlined in the service manual as "TDC" and also have some sort of "reading?" on the compression tester and also when I put the timing cover back on, do I put the RTV Gray on the cover or on the engine or on both?
@tadsworkshop 18 күн бұрын
@@adairjanney7109 your thumb over the adapter hose will be enough to know when you are on the compression stroke for cylinder 1. You can also tell just by looking at the camshaft lobes as you watch them turn. Listen to what I’m saying here - turn the crankshaft until your at top dead center on cylinder 1 on the compression stroke. The timing mark on the crankshaft should be at the 4pm position as shown in the video. The exhaust camshaft mark will be at 11am, and the intake camshaft at 1pm. Take a good look at the video where I have the chain and tensioner installed, as I’m wrapping up the job. Roughly 12:45 in the video.
@adairjanney7109 18 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop just to clarify a thing you said earlier I was under the impression now that the chain is removed I could find the compression struke by just turning the crankshaft without turning the lobes indepedently basically, like all thre could independtnly be put into the correct position by hand, becuase once I tried to put the chain back on I realized I was never going to get it back on exactly like I had it. So I figure I need to do what you say now but indepdently, so plan was turn until i find compression strike which tester is failing to do, prob something I did wrong, and then turn each love to point in the exact direciton they should point. Also the marks one looks like a golden dash the other I assume is a little cut out on the disk but in the service manual it shows two dashes.
@adairjanney7109 18 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop and also I thought I asked you this but I think I thought you were someone else and have been asking him, he is like wtf are you talking about timing chain... anyway the timing marks, on your video since its a rio and a 1.6L the same year I figured the same, but if you go to kiasoulman for my year 2016 it shows them pointing together, do you recommend following your videos marks or following the service manual. I know it probably sounds like I dont have a chance in hell of getting this complete, but I just ask questions that might sound dumb as hell but I just dont want to make a mistake, even after getting the chain on and the lobes in place etc ill prob try to find a way to confirm its good
@adairjanney7109 21 күн бұрын
well I think I messed up, I followed a videos guide on how to find top dead center by using a screw driver going up and down and also watching the timing marks but I didnt pay attention to the marks on the outside of the cam just the position of the timing chain marks (different colored chains) and when they were in the right place and the first cylinder was at the top I thought I had found top dead center, and then removed everything. Now I am thinking that was wrong looking at your video again because my timing marks the little cutout and the mark on the variators whatever you called them, are the exact opposite direction that yours are, and they def dont point towards each other like to book claims, cyl one is all the way to the top, 2 and 3 are all the way to the bottom and cyl 4 is all the way to the top, did I screw up, can I put the chain back on without the tensioner and keep runing to get it where I need it or will that be insanely dumb? Or do i have to put EVERYTHING back how it was and turn it to get it to where it should be ? unless I am at TDC everything but those two marks look right but that probably means boo hoo you screwed up, this has turned out to be a lot i would say harder, just more involved that I had orignally imagined, have a feeling im talkinjg to my supervisor on monday, look bro not making it in today
@tadsworkshop 20 күн бұрын
@@adairjanney7109remember, this is all in reference to TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder 1. Keep in mind cylinder 1 is also at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke as well. Watch the camshaft lobes and their position to make sense of what stroke you are on. Remember, it goes intake stroke, compression stroke, power stroke, and exhaust stroke. I realize from how you’re describing it, you may be a bit over your head, but I get it, you’re desperate to get the engine running again. In the engine, just make sure the marks are lined up exactly like in my video, where I have the new chain installed. Just focus on that. As long as the camshaft marks are where they should be, and the crankshaft mark is where it should be, you’re good. Also - absolutely do not consider running it without tensioner installed. May as well scrap the engine if you do.
@adairjanney7109 20 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop no not run it, but can i put the chain back on without the guides and tensioner, and use the camshaft bolt to turn it again to get it correct?
@tadsworkshop 20 күн бұрын
@@adairjanney7109 yes you can. You can also turn the camshafts individually. What I like to do is turn the crankshaft by hand until all the pistons are halfway through their stroke. Halfway in between TDC and bdc. This will allow you to turn the camshafts without fear of bending a valve.
@adairjanney7109 20 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop thanks, now im just waiting for some more shade to get started again, freaking hot out west, dont know where you are but holy crap
@tadsworkshop 20 күн бұрын
@@adairjanney7109 Michigan here. 84 today. Not nearly as bad as out west im sure. Best of luck, I hope you can bring that engine back to life this weekend. Hit me up if you need more help.
@adairjanney7109 21 күн бұрын
I actually got the cover off just needed longer bolts, anyway, do you know if I can use the new tensioner pin to put it in the old tensioner to get it off, or does that even matter, if I remove it does it ruin it? Just reading instrucitons it says to depress it and put a pin in it and I dont have that pin
@tadsworkshop 21 күн бұрын
@@adairjanney7109 for removing, no, you don’t have to put the pin in the old one. Don’t waste your time with that. But before you remove the chain and tensioner, to make your life easier, make sure you are on top dead center on the compression stroke of cylinder 1.
@adairjanney7109 21 күн бұрын
@@tadsworkshop so basically spin the crankshaft thing until it gets to "TDC" on compression stroke of cyl 1, is cyl 1 the closest to the timing chain also which is the compression stroke? Yeah I know prob should already know these things but you do what you have to do and with 251,000 miles I figured id better do this if i want it to keep running but maybe im causing issues where I shouldnt but I didnt even really take care of it the first 100k miles, im amazed it still runs the only thing I can think of is I constantly am begging God, PLease God do not let this damn car shit out on me, I do NOT want a freaking car payment.
@tadsworkshop 21 күн бұрын
@@adairjanney7109 I totally get it. New cars are insanely overpriced. Do what you gotta do to keep yours on the road. But yes, cylinder 1 is closest to the timing chain. I used a adapter hose from a compression tester kit and threaded it into the spark plug hole, and with my thumb over the end of the hose, that made it easy to tell when I was on the compression stroke. Just pay attention to the timing marks I’m talking about in the video. The video is somewhat disorganized, but later in the video, you can see what it looks like with the chain installed and everything aligned perfectly.
@adairjanney7109 21 күн бұрын
i try those m6 bolts and it started cfoming off but wont come off... any suggestions? I removed the camshaft pulley bolt and harmonic balancer I wasnt supposed to like remove something else on that crankshaft pole was i looks like yours is still there
@goddesseddog 22 күн бұрын
The location of that filter is really a PITA
@tadsworkshop 22 күн бұрын
@@goddesseddog it is. But I’ve definitely seen a lot worse on other cars. 2007-2013 turbocharged Mini Coopers are a pain. That’s just one example off the top of my head.
@guillermocastro6948 23 күн бұрын
I had i recall on the fuel pressor pump , they change it and it runs much better.
@JoseGonzales-cv5ly 24 күн бұрын
Thank you this will help
@adairjanney7109 24 күн бұрын
kia.parts id pretty fast
@dejavoo1234 28 күн бұрын
any ideas whats the other faults of these if I went with the zf gearbox?
@tadsworkshop 28 күн бұрын
@@dejavoo1234 I own a nearly identical car to this. I’ve had no issues with the duoselect/F1 yet. A lot of people complain about the clutch and expense of replacing it. I have 52k miles and determined clutch is around 65 percent. I’ll be doing that job myself when that day comes. But for me, it will be years from now. It’s certainly not as smooth as a ZF car. i think the ZF is ultimately more reliable. I’m expecting sensors and things to fail on this F1 eventually. The F1 is more of an enthusiasts choice. I’ve also seen rumors of someone converting an F1 to true manual operation.
@JointSlayer Ай бұрын
Omg haha same fkn thing happened to me
@CraftyRoseDentalinstructor. Ай бұрын
Check out info on Sheriff Buzzby 2014 accent timing chain replace..... for o ring size and option ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
@-RON-DOMINATION- Ай бұрын
Hey tad great video... any tips? replacing the intake on a 2014 jeep grand cherokee ecodiesel.. when i got to it the intake runner control motor is broken... im not deleted... do you happen to have the moter you took off? Or know of a solution
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
No, unfortunately I sold that motor on eBay some time ago. You’d have to check with the official mopar parts website to see if there is a part number for that motor…..or search eBay for used intake manifolds or if by chance someone is selling the motor by itself. If it’s in your budget, you might consider a brand new mopar intake manifold. I know it comes with the motor. If your budget is tight, you could see if the aftermarket Chinese clones of that manifold come with the motor.
@-RON-DOMINATION- Ай бұрын
@tadsworkshop I really appreciate the fast reply... I already got one of the cheaper intakes ($130) only thing it doesn't have is that motor 😭 didn't know it was broke untill I got in there... new Mopar is $800
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
@@-RON-DOMINATION- damn, your not kidding on the price. Believe it or not I could buy mopar ecodiesel intake manifolds on the official website for $320 a few years ago. At that time, new motors were 10k and I see now they are closer to 17k. Crazy. You might have to check with Facebook ecodiesel groups or ecodiesel forums to try and score that motor. I don’t suppose you can delete that truck in your location, can you? I just double checked the website, and I see a new manifold kit is actually $662.22 plus tax and $20 for shipping. If that helps at all.
@-RON-DOMINATION- Ай бұрын
@tadsworkshop I'm in minnesota so I could no smog tests... it seems finding anywhere that does the programing is hard to find now... epa scared everyone underground
@-RON-DOMINATION- Ай бұрын
@tadsworkshop I have you saved so go ahead and delete I will definitely keep you in mind I was hopeing to do it with eztune or something simular as to not have to send the computer off
@MontsGaming Ай бұрын
i just got a 1971 fiberform. has this engine in it. it runs but has a rats nest of wiring. i hope i can clean it up to look like this. can you come to phx AZ and check it out. lol. i have extra room. free stay and food.
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
I appreciate that, and if I had all the time and money in the world I probably would. Cool boat, hope you can bring it to mechanical perfection. Some tips for your boat - 1) find an electronic ignition conversion. Look at the numbers on the distributor and look over a Pertronix catalog. 2) I found a PDF file online of an old Fel-pro marine gasket catalog. I used this to track down certain gaskets and seals related to the manifold and other things. It’s interesting to a note a marine head gasket has stainless steel incorporated in it, as opposed to mild steel in an automotive head gasket. 3) remember, it’s a Chevy 250 at the end of the day. Use that for your hard parts. I used an automotive fuel pump on this one….but understand that a marine pump has an added safety feature that prevents fumes from filling the bilge in case its internal diaphragm fails. 4) I found some reproduction Mercruiser decals on eBay. Put in a supreme effort and bring that boat back to its former glory. Best of luck.
@MontsGaming Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop nice thank you. i appreciate the tips. ya honestly the outside of boat in great shape. no dents and minor scratches or chips. i might redo a topside coat but main focus is engine and interior. my dad has an old 62 stepside chevy and it has this same v6. so he said he would help me tune it out. because it runs. just needs some tlc. but yes I will do on ignition switch. as for interior I just became an apolsturer. lol. everything is shot. so im buying new seats. but im redo side panels,dash,and floor myself. its a simple boat with lots of room. doing captains chair, double back on passenger, 2 rear seats next/each side to engine box. maybe ice chest seat behind captain chair. people think im into deep. but bro i got boat with running engine and trailer for $500. lol. I stole it. and I like doing projects like this. also restored my uncles old camping trailir. lol. its just our hobby. .👍🏼
@aknagcameltoe1 Ай бұрын
Yes great video Tad very detailed and informative sir thank you
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Thank you sir.
@aknagcameltoe1 Ай бұрын
What is the cost of this repair thanks
@aknagcameltoe1 Ай бұрын
Why isn't this covered under the drive train warranty its internal to the engine
@mrconductor144 Ай бұрын
Did a stage 2 delete, also had the swirl valves turn off, at 88,000km and still going strong after 130k, probably a good idea for anyone pulling the intake off is to change that coolant line going to the turbo.
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Absolute must-do.
@NOS-ZL1 Ай бұрын
I’m currently getting ready to repair the leaking turbo coolant line on mine and I’m planning to do this as well, but I have been told two different things about the electric motor that rotate the swirl valves. Does the electric motor have to go back in place or can it be left off of the intake entirely? My truck is already deleted with stage 2 tune
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Depends on the programming done by the tuner. They can choose whether or not to disable and stop monitoring of the swirl valve system. Before you commit to removing the motor, you could disconnect the plug for it and see how the computer system reacts. It is a large connector kind of by the driver side of the throttle body I believe. You may have to remove the throttle body as shown in another of my videos, to get access to that electrical connector,
@NOS-ZL1 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop thanks I’ll reach out to my tuner. Mine isn’t completely apart yet, so I haven’t actually laid eyes on it and was concerned that removing the electric motor may leave an opening to somehow lose intake pressure. But if it’s just a tune adjustment I’ll be fine leaving it off if for nothing more than just having the extra clearance under the intake. Thanks again. Great video 👍
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
@@NOS-ZL1 nope, no boost leaks whatsoever with the motor and swirl valves removed as shown in this video. And it is definitely nice to free up room under the intake without the motor in place. The motor makes it that much more difficult to reinstall the manifold.
@NOS-ZL1 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop just got done with my turbo coolant line repair and did remove the swirl valves and did In fact remove the motor to them with no issues with the tune. No check engine lights. And wow without that motor the intake just sits right down with no struggles. I appreciate the video I didn’t know it was an option to do this mod. New intake, all this swirl valves and motor deleted the truck seems to run smoother also a bit more pep to it and have gained a couple more mpg. Thanks again
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
@@NOS-ZL1 I appreciate it. Feels good to take care of all that, doesn’t it? Should help with longevity, mileage and power. And yes, installing that intake is a pain with that electrical motor in the way. Keep that truck going!
@lenstar01 Ай бұрын
Tad you're so informative keep up the great work.
@jameskyle2238 Ай бұрын
which one is number 7? I have the same thing I am fixing tomorrow.
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Rear one on driver side. But it would be smart to replace them all in one shot, with the updated metal body ones from Dorman.
@jameskyle2238 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop after watching your video, i am now going to do that. Thanks!!
@jameskyle2238 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop I am at 85k. would you do the VVT solenoid as well?
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
@@jameskyle2238 if it’s in your budget, I’d say yes, get ahead of it! I’m not familiar enough with the Hemi vvt solenoids regarding lifespan…but if they are like anything else, I would feel justified replacing it at that mileage. The truck in my video only had like 35-40k, so I felt good about not replacing it, and leaving it be.
@jameskyle2238 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop Gotcha, if I am gonna have it apart, might as well do it. thanks!!
@whocarezbj6152 Ай бұрын
Hey Brother, I really enjoy your content. I've got a 14 Grand Cherokee Overland with the 3.0 Ecodiesel. So, needless to say, I find your videos quite helpful. After watching this video, I'd like to throw in a bit of info. Back in October of last year, I started having lift pump issues. I'll skip all the long drawn out drama I went through and jump straight to the meat & potatoes! After replacing my lift pump with a brand new Mopar lift pump, my lack of fuel issues popped up again about 2 months later. I dropped my tank again and found that the ground pin in the lift pump plug had actually began to melt.... causing it to heat up and short out. Causing random crank / no start scenarios as well as random stalling out while driving. This was my culprit the entire time. I was so disgusted for not checking this plug in detail while I had the tank dropped the first time while replacing my lift pump. I am used to seeing this kind of stuff on most 99 and up GM / Chevrolet full size trucks and SUVS. This was a first for me, seeing this kind of thing on Jeep / Chrysler / Mopar vehicles. You would think, after all the pigtails I've replaced on GM vehicles, I would pay more attention to the plugs on ALL fuel pumps, no matter the manufacturer. Anyway, just wanted to thank you for making such great, detailed videos. As well as throw my .02 cents out there for others that may come across similar situations. Hopefully save someone else some of the headache that I went through diagnosing my problem.... Also, one more thing. There is ANOTHER fellow youtuber that has a video that found VERY helpful!! Can't remember the channel name, but he goes into detail about how his fairly low mile Ram / Ecodiesel developed LOW to NO OIL pressure problems. He decided to drop his lower oil pan and discovered his oil pump pick up tube COMPLETELY STOPPED UP with SOOT / SLUDGE. My oil pressure warning flickered, I immediately took my Jeep straight to my shop and dropped my lower pan.... wanna guess what I found?!?! THE EXACT SAME SHIT! So, thats where I am at RIGHT this minute. Its easy to clean out, I will have her back up and running first thing in the morning. I have a strong feeling that this is the root cause of all the ECODIESELS mysteriously blowing / locking up due to oiling problems.... Just throwing that out there! Thanks!
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Appreciate the kind words. I haven’t seen the fuel pump connector issue on this era of Chrysler vehicles but anything is possible! That would’ve been easy for anyone to overlook. As far as the soot choking up the oil sump - also really great to know. The ecodiesel engine rebuilder in Mexico, Enrique Peters, claims there isn’t enough interference fit in between the crank main bearings and caps, allowing them to easily get spun. I’m actually sitting on two trucks right now with spun main bearings. But, if the sumps are getting choked up with that oil/soot sludge, that would make sense! I appreciate you sharing the info. I haven’t come across a low oil pressure ecodiesel yet, but I’ll keep the oil sump blockage in mind.
@Cooldude488180236 Ай бұрын
I'm in Michigan also, where are you located?
@squirrely9415 Ай бұрын
What fuel pump is that? I just got a boat with this engine and the fuel pump is bad, is there one that Oreillys or someplace would keep in stock that would work?
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
It’s an automotive fuel pump for a GM 230/250 inline 6. But you really should strive for a marine one. The marine pump has a safety feature that allows the carb to suck up fuel from pump in the case the diaphragm ruptures. This is all to avoid having gas fumes settle in the bilge of the boat and create an explosion hazard. So bear that in mind.
@squirrely9415 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop do you know where I can find a new carb for one of these? Mines all sorts of clogged up and I can’t seem to find a replacement or even a rebuild kit. Idk if it’s the same but mine has the “small base” with the hole centers being 2” by 3 1/4”
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
@@squirrely9415 well…I’m just going off of memory here, but it’s a Rochester 2GC correct? There are a ton of new Chinese ones out there..you’ll have to do your homework on small bore and large bore Rochester 2 barrels, but I believe it’s large barrel you need. If you really want to be cool, get a Holley EFI Sniper, since they make a version designed to replace the Rochester 2 barrel. Otherwise, search eBay and Amazon for new Rochester 2 barrels.
@squirrely9415 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop that’s where I started unfortunately. I thought I found one and so I ordered it cause it looked perfect, and then when I went to put it on the bolt holes were wrong, which led me to do more research and found that mine is in fact the small bore. So I guess it’s more research for me
@andrewh1053 Ай бұрын
Excellent Video. Is this a 3rd gen ecodiesel? I am getting code P200B. Dealer said to replace the manifold however I am able to get a tune done to leave the swirl runners open. Im not getting any acceleration issues or rough idling so im assuming they might be stuck in the Open position rather than closed.
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
This was a 2015/2016 model I believe. Sounds like you’re on the right track.
@tamasnemeth8464 Ай бұрын
Hello.Could you give the part number of the magnetic position sensor? or the numbers about it and the manufacturer? I'm trying to find it on the internet, but I can't find it using keywords...
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Hi. You can find them it the video description of this video I created. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZ6zl62IpculY5Ysi=57JP6_bLg-cG0RqS But you should really verify the part numbers through the official mopar parts website, www.mopar.com/en-us/shop/parts.html
@tamasnemeth8464 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop I mean the sensor in this video at 1:17
@DanielClark-xy2qb 25 күн бұрын
SAME!! I JUST THREW A P2016 ENGINE CODE AND ONLY THAT CODE. SAYS BANK 1 RUNNER POSITION SENSOR. YET I HAVE TO BY THE ENTIRE MANIFOLD SUPPOSEDLY. WHAT? IM WONDERING IF THIS DUDE HAS THAT PART NUMBER AS WELL.
@zinkyjames1674 Ай бұрын
Great job but me personally I still prefer pulling cab.
@morenoja22 Ай бұрын
That bottom banjo bolt is kicking my butt , got the old one out just fine, any tips on installing the new one. Keep dropping the second washer can't seem to get the threads started 🤔🤔
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
It’s a royal pain for sure. I don’t remember exactly what I had to do…but I remember struggling with the washers, trying not to drop them and lose them. I remember setting the washer on the turbo, guiding it into place with a pick, and carefully putting the hose and banjo bolt over it while trying my best not to knock the bottom washer down. Might’ve used grease or something to help it stay. My approach towards this job has changed since then; now I just replace the hose itself with a high quality piece and clamps, and avoid the turbo banjo bolt, but that doesn’t help you now. Just keep at it. If you feel the old banjo bolt might be better, use it. Be careful tightening the bolt after. Use good common sense; you certainly don’t want to break it.
@morenoja22 Ай бұрын
Thanks again
@morenoja22 Ай бұрын
what if i broke a couple of those plastic little inserts holding the gaskets in place, you think it'll be alright without some of them ?
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Your call. Think about how much pressure the inside of that manifold sees from the turbocharger, and bear that in mind. If in doubt, replace that manifold. You do not want to take it apart twice.
@morenoja22 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop yeah, idk. i kinda think it'll be alright. the first rod came out smooth. the second one hung up a lil, and before you knew it i saw plastic flying lol.
@rickvonderchek6898 Ай бұрын
Does that leak actually show up externally like fluid you can actually see dripping from the truck ?
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
Yes, typically it flows towards the rear of the engine, flows down the transmission and drips from the transmission fluid pan, etc.
@rickvonderchek6898 Ай бұрын
@@tadsworkshop I have no external leaks I can’t find on my 2015 . Loosing coolant just trying to narrow it down . Probably the egr cooler wasn’t much soot just a wet soot what there was of it thanks
@raymondcrespo507 Ай бұрын
Thanks very good job.
@MikeMacKinnon-yc6md Ай бұрын
Is there a Dorman part number to get the Female Quick Connect 5/16" ? is that double bead line, is that plastic? it looks plastic in the video.. but it must be metal.. I want to order that part number to do this same test.. but I'm thinking I also need a female end to make the job easier.. ?
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
800-159 is the part number for the pack. It is steel. It will have a 3/8 and 5/16 double bead fuel line. I wouldn’t worry about the female end too much. It’s nice to have, but just clamp it securely with a good hose clamp. It will hold the 60psi just fine.
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
For anyone doing this job, please read the video description. One thing I forgot to mention in the video was the fuel rail to cylinder head bolts. They are a a pain to remove. They are button head torx bolts, and you absolutely do not want to strip them. Same with the turbo outlet Allen head button head bolts. This is where experience, and mechanical aptitude come into play.
@wrestlingbelike19 Ай бұрын
What tune up kit did you use ?
@tadsworkshop Ай бұрын
I did this job years ago, but I just used the best quality cap and rotor I could find for a Chevy 250 inline 6. Sprayed the inside with WD-40 to combat the marine environment. I’m pretty sure I used a Pertronix electronic ignition kit. Find their digital catalog online. Wires are Mercury Marine I believe, which are absolute top quality 8mm ignition wires.