2016 Ford Escape Dead Battery Problem Found!!!

[@lightningsmokerXx]

Whoever at ford signed off on that battery being located where it is needs a swift kick in the balls.

[@Caramel.Latte80]

YES!!!!!

[@GBS1043]

I just had to replace the battery in one of these, It ain't fun. You have to remove the air filter assembly

[@armadilllo]

just replaced my battery , who the fuck designed that? three fucking hours to change a battery! Not difficult but it's a pain in the ass when every other car on earth takes 10 minutes.

[@packratswhatif.3990]

@@armadilllo : Oh the joys they must have at pissing us off.

[@dalokz]

And the guy who decided to put the alternator at the bottom of the engine needs to be next

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

UPDATE: Replacing the gauge cluster fixed the problem.

[@lilchuckyfolks]

Does ford edge have the same problem? My edge 2016 needs a jump but battery is charged

[@lilchuckyfolks]

Need help.

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

@@lilchuckyfolks it’s very likely the same issue. Watch your gauges for about 15 minutes after closing the doors and locking them. Leave the key out of the ignition, see if it does it.

[@briewilson9695]

I have the same issue, 2016 Ford Escape. Replaced the cluster and it still had to be jump started today

[@vosburght]

@@briewilson9695 curious, when you replaced the cluster, was it a new cluster from Ford or rebuilt? I have the drain problem too.

[@jcdiaz6530]

Help in same situation how did u fix ?

[@tracycolorado]

pull out every fuse and relay, one at a time , to find out what circuit is drawing the load . while doing your draw test . can not have door ( door open ) light on . Fords have a battery saver relay that might not be working right

[@cgonedfishing]

Can anyone say they tried this, working on a 2013 Titanium now 2.0 Ecoboost

[@Krankie_V]

do you know what's causing the gauges to do that?

[@malcolmbrown9266]

So, what was the source of the parasitic draw and how did you remedy it?

[@jeffcastegnaro4571]

It's Mysterious .Enquiring minds like mine would like to know.

[@Feelybadrupprick]

Why post a video that doesn't provide any answers

[@brucerose7010]

@@Feelybadrupprick The answer is in the video description. Replace the IPC.

[@lauracheeney4759]

Positive battery sensor replacement part $50 at Oreilly’s. It gets to hot melts off the part. At least on mine

[@vosburght]

Do you have a part number?

[@kerihudson7863]

I installed a batter disconnect terminal. A blown fuse was replaced and now my ac and radio work but im scare to leave the terminal on again to see if that was the problem

[@rebeccamccartin]

My folks keep having their battery die randomly on their 2016 Edge. They haven't even owned the car a full year yet. This is the 4th time it's died. I just bought a meter today and im going to look for this issue too! I'm intrigued you are hearing that noise because my neighbor called last night and said he heard a noise coming from the Edge. But by the time I went to check, there wasn't any noise and the battery was completely dead. Anyhow, wish my luck yall.

[@nanii9649]

I hear the SAME noise in mine you have to be pretty close.

[@darryls8066]

Thanks for posting that video. I have a 2015 Ford Escape Titanium with 1700 miles on it that has been towed to the dealership twice for dead battery that cannot be boosted off. They replaced the battery both times. Apparently the parasitic draw ruins the battery? Is there a TSB number that I need to point out to them that someone could post here? I would really like to have a vehicle that I can depend on to start when needed!

[@Hullad1379]

FORD=Found On Road Dead.....dealing with this problem right now as is a co worker on a newer model. seems to be a recurring issue. good luck as i am still hunting mine down. i will re post if i figure anything out.

[@cgonedfishing]

Sam here working on a 2013 with this drain.

[@zachdaniel3419]

@@cgonedfishing how do you stop it

[@cgonedfishing]

@@zachdaniel3419 my situation may be different than this. Currently testing my last attempt which was to take my battery to auto parts store, have them charge and check it with their tester. Once they confirm good, I checked all my terminals for corrosion, cleaned where needed, installed battery and performed the battery monitor reset as FordBoss describes in his videos.

[@vosburght]

@@cgonedfishing I have a 2013 with the Same, find anything?

[@finn55cats]

Exactly what my 2015 escape is doing. Third time in and 2 nod time within one month. Thanks for posting.

[@jeffcastegnaro4571]

I have had a 2016 Ford Escape SE for 1year and 3 months .(Purchased it used with 22346 miles ).I was thinking vehicle is 5 years old with now 47,893 miles on it.Batteries normaly last 5 years tops.I have had to jump start vehicle 9 times since I purchased it.I went and bought a Interstate battery today and installed it myself.Its not your average installation. Anyhow, I was due for a new replacement ,but I do not know why the vehicle is draining the battery.Any idea's would be appreciated.

[@livinontheedje]

I live in Michigan. Just happened to my wife who has our 2016 escape. Unfortunately she is in West Virginia.

[@mikilh]

our 2015 escape did this. After several times in the shop, Ford replaced the instrument cluster. That fixed the fluttering gauges, but we still get dead batteries. In fact, it just happened this past weekend. We hear a vibrating noise by the back axle. I can't even put it on a charger- somethings shorting out. Did your service department make you feel like an idiot too???

[@tylermoses8688]

Having the same problem and our service department thinks we're crazy and suggested to charge the battery every single night. Thinking about getting a lawyer

[@pammarsceill1682]

My 2017 escape titanium is having the same issue. 2 new batteries and it still won't start after 5 or 7 days after jumping it.

[@TheKpace5423]

Mine does this only when I leave my back hatch open to long. It’s has to be something with it

[@SalJones100]

Mine too If I open my trunk 2 or 3 times fire even ten seconds each I need a jump start!!

[@lisamanv]

I am having the same problem with my 2017. Ford has had it three times. First time they found nothing, second time they told me it was my Allstate drivewise insert and the third time they just said they had started it over and over and the battery is ok. The key fob will no longer start it and it doesn't turn off when stopped to save the battery because as I was told, the battery needs to be charged to 80% and mine no longer will charge to that. My husband believes it is the Sync updating by connecting to our Wi-Fi. Not sure what to do about that. I have another appointment with Ford next week until then I charge the battery every couple days by taking a drive up and down the nearby highway.

[@brendamcdonald6602]

I'm going through the same thing with my 2017 Escape. 3 times they've had it and they can't figure it out. I'm so frustrated.

[@jdawgg491]

I'm also having the same problem, also 2017 Escape! Please reply if they end up figuring it out. I'll lose my mind if this "fluttering gauge" problem is actually the issue! But also be relieved because having to call AAA every Monday when my car dies over the weekend is getting old tbh.

[@kerihudson7863]

Install a battery disconnet terminal

[@DouglasBrown2014]

My 2015 Escape Titanium has similar issues. When I try to start the dashboard goes dark, sometimes I also see the needles rattling on same gauges shown in video. I press the button again to turn off. Then, without trying to start yet, I press ignition button and I get normal looking dash lights. I do notice computer keeps rebooting (screen keeps saying "performing scheduled maintenance"), and radio and AC go on. Just replaced battery and doing the same thing. Pressing button to start car and I hear one click up front, then a bunch of clicks in the dashboard, but lights go dark (dash's screen light flashes quickly). It's seems that each video I watch isn't showing the exact same problem I'm seeing.

[@DouglasBrown2014]

Update: for my issue, changing negative battery terminal cable fixed my issue. Prior, I charged the battery, still wouldn't start. I replaced battery, didn't start. I reset the BMS and it still wouldn't start. The negative battery terminal had lots of that funky sandy buildup on it. Tried cleaning but that rectangular sensors on that cable seemed a bit too corroded and was reason enough for me to replace that negative cable ($80 at Ford dealer). BTW, my positive terminal was spotless. And that got my 2015 Escape started!

[@markgagnier6469]

What is exactly the remedy suggested physical replacement of instrument cluster or reprogramming?

[@packratswhatif.3990]

Ahhhh, ford just added a little timed subroutine in the computer to start acting up after so many miles. That way people take their vehicle back to the dealer for repair ......will sort of. My 2013 escape has gone thru 4 batteries in seven years with these problems. Guess it sucks to be me.

[@ozarkmountainplants1372]

me too

[@petervarga4592]

I don't mean to be difficult but the video upload date is October 2015 but the car discussed in it is a 2016 Ford Escape. How is it possible? Do I misunderstand something?

[@RobbieThrash]

I bought my 2016 Ford Escape in August of 2015. The 2016 models came out July, August of 2015.

[@karmasutra4774]

Yeah they get them out ahead of time ... earlier and earlier kind of like Christmas candy ...

[@The1sRos]

this is interesting i just changed the battery on our 2013 escape dead battery but battery tests good. thanks.

[@Btb971]

We had that same issue on our 15 escape, titanium. Ford said no recalls yet but to pull a fuse #.... Really ford. Great customer service. May have to show them this video so they know I'm not faking it.

[@michaelfreire1382]

Which fuse did you need to pull?

[@vosburght]

No answer? Ditto on "Which fuse did you pull?"

[@alainramanonintsoa7254]

when the cluster is replaced, How can I recover my actual mileage? or my car becomes a not actual mileage?

[@ldubs_12]

Put car on blocks, put in drive, take off blocks when you get to the right mileage

[@AC-nt5bz]

Wonderful so you show the draw happening but not the cause or repair other than it 'might' need reprogramming.I have a 2010 Escape that suddenly has a battery drain overnight fully charged drops to 0.7 Volts ? Noticed the fan isn't working so short maybe at the resistor?? any clues?

[@4cherbstritt]

Have this exact problem on my 2013 I bought certified used in February. Had it back to the dealer 5 times on it. The most recent they replaced the radio even though I told them I had seen the IPC doing this. How did you resolve the problem?

[@PinguimFU]

i think you have to replace the ipc

[@t_dogg8097]

Wife had a dead battery today on her 13 escape. I couldn't figure out why it happened. Now I'm going to check this.

[@tomasmandorf1498]

Our 13 Escape also got the same problem Saturday! Battery tested 2 month ago and nod suddenly died. Let me know if it turns out to be this problem. I will also test this today!

[@cleverfisherman]

Tomas Mandorf did u guys ever figure this out just happened to my wife 2013

[@tomasmandorf1498]

cleverfisherman we changed batteries and the problem went away:/ guess it was a bad battery in my case

[@t_dogg8097]

Ours too!

[@cleverfisherman]

Well I have it. In the charger now if not new battery it is to start

[@Joseph-ye8yn]

What if the vehicle isn't receiving power any where?

[@JoeMmt347]

I need to check for this, battery is weak but it just doesn’t feel like it’s a battery problem. Thanks

[@coldstreams]

Had Ford do the transmission bushing recall and 1,200 miles later, the bushing failed in exactly the way the recall was supposed to prevent. 35 mile tow to get it repaired, overnight in a hotel, fixed end of next day. Did Ford dealer even do the recall work originally? 2 months later, battery dead and replaced. 2 months later from that, battery dead, battery and alternator replaced. 4 months later, turn key, lights up, but no start. A while later it starts. Next day, lights up, no start. Put it on smart charger, and smart charger concludes with "battery failure". 3 battery failures in one year. Not sure its worth putting more money into the 2016 Escape based on comments here and elsewhere there seems to be design issues with the electrical system and lots of random hand waving and randomly replacing stuff.

[@newfie-dean5803]

You likely have an issue with the high current battery junction box located in front of the battery. You have to remove the air box to access it. Then you can see a series of mega fuses side by side. It’s common for these to go bad and visually you cannot tell. You have to test each fuse. Turn the ignition on but don’t start the car. Then using a multimeter connect the black probe to ground and using the red probe measure the voltage individually at the top of each fuse. You should see 12V for each. Then measure the bottom voltage and you should also see 12V. If you see a lower number you know the fuse is the problem. It’s very common for the far right 50A mega fuse to go bad causing no-start issues and it controls the body control module which controls a number of things and communicates with other modules and the PCM. Ford has even redesigned the fuse so they are aware of the issue. These sorts of problems should be recalled. You pay premium prices for junk and shoddy engineering these days. The location of the battery on this vehicle is a prime example.

[@jean-francoisvachon5895]

Got that same problem on my Escape 2014 everytime i don't take the car for a few day the battery is dead

[@michaelfreire1382]

How did you fix the problem? I am having the same issue

[@CBoehmke]

@@michaelfreire1382 Same here.. can't find any answers on what people actually did to solve it.

[@dwendland2131]

i have this problem what was the fix?

[@TheBryanleduc]

My 2015 escape just did this on the weekend, no start, waited a few mins then it started fine. Next morning I got to start it in the morning to go to work and the battery was almost dead, it started but wtf. Same after I started for my drive back home. I thought I needed a new battery but saw this video and thought twice about buying one. How can I get this problem fixed ?

[@michaelfreire1382]

Did you figure out the problem? And solution? We have been stranded twice now in days. Need help here.

[@brad3435]

I have a 2016 Focus SE and you can trigger the gauges to flutter similarly. When you open the door with the car off and let the fuel pump pressurize the engine and wait about a minute for the engine to depressurize, the gauges will flutter for about a second. You can probably do this in any newer model ford.

[@mr.k860]

So whats causing the problem ??

[@danf8047]

LOL it's 2016 and FORD still has problems like this?... wow

[@38911bytefree]

They made the carp computer everything, control modules for everything, CAN networked ... just to make spares insane expensive an far less reliable.

[@rahrah8076]

David Y every damn vehicle will have problems if they continue to stick computers in the vehicle

[@G1manime]

Do all or most auto garages and business know about this?

[@fallsauto9]

Where did you connect the leads to test for this?

[@makosmomkw1237]

ok so WHAT ended up doing that to the gauges? A module, what? Ours has done this 3 times in the last month! The mechanic already did the parasitic draw test and didn't find anything, but could have easily missed this if he wasn't watching. helllp! (it is ALSO a 2016 edge) ok so I read the rest of the description and it said it was a bad instrument panel cluster. I wonder how much THAT is gonna cost. omg.

[@SteveRobReviews]

What does Ford say is the max. acceptable parasitic draw ?

[@dieselfixr]

For any vehicle a power draw more than 0.25 mah is considered excessive. So 2.27 amps is very high.

[@TheOzthewiz]

@@dieselfixr 2.27 Amperes?

[@dieselfixr]

@@TheOzthewiz yes amps

[@peppi7777]

Is there any legit reasons of this ? I had 3 battery changes in 6 years. Unplugged my back wipper motor too because it drained it last time. Now this morning it's drained. Last night the engine light was flashing on and off fast and this morning drained battery with clicking sound coming from the speedometer area. Any solution ideas by any chance? Thanks

[@tclll2984]

Same issue if you find anything lmk and I’ll do the same

[@vosburght]

Same here on my 2013 escape se

[@peppi7777]

@@vosburght based on the ongoing issue that no one seem to know, one mechanic mentioned that the back motor wiper needed to be replaced even if it was unplugged. To his knowledge the two wiper motors from the back and front are synced with eachother or something. So if one of them is out or burned, the other takes the load and can drain. The battery was showing higher amps being sucked when it was shut off. Once the new motor went on it stopped. Now that's what happened to me and I also unplugged my dash cam that was installed. For now no battery drain. Next year or sooner we shall see though. If it does it again then they where just speculations on their part and don't know what they are doing. Just guess working. Changed 7 mecchanics so far. Either my escape is a lemon or they just don't know what they are doing. Hope this helps. They couldn't give me an answer on the engine light on and off either. But that went away on its own. Still a mystery. Hope this helps a bit. I know it's frustrating expecially when you have the so called professionals doing the work. Fuses where all good too.

[@peppi7777]

@@tclll2984 I replied to Todd V in the same reply. What was changed.

[@tclll2984]

@@peppi7777 you are the man!

[@nickyspunable]

Every other ford tech I know says the rear wiper motor/module is malfunctioning and causing the parasitic drain. Pull the rear wiper motor fuse and see if it alleviates the problem.

[@peppi7777]

I did that as well and it still did it again. This is my 3rd battery . And my engine light was flashing on and off very fast . I woke up this morning and found battery drained and clicking sound in the speedometer area.

[@karmasutra4774]

Which fuse is that? Might as well try ..

[@JoseGarcia-oe3pw]

my battery dies randomly on my 2006 chevy cobalt & it does this once in a while with the instrument cluster gauges. would i have to change the icg or is it something with the computer?

[@TheWallyjp]

what causes that?

[@Dinger154]

I wonder why you didn't do a parasitic drain test on visits one and two, why wait until the third visit ? Pretty obvious on a new car.

[@snoopdogie187]

I was thinking the same thing, especially by visit two.

[@mRwoRds2148]

Mine just did that today when I tried to start it, I unlocked it, all lights were on, turned the ignition and nothing, THEN started doing this 🙃 now battery is gone, and it does this.

[@mharrison1325]

Haven't had any in the shop with this issue yet. may be a Dumb question but what was your voltage before/during the test?

[@JoelGarcia-qb2oj]

The battery is dead .I had to jump start my escape and take it to the dealership. I had my escape for a 1 year and 4 month when it happened to me. Hope this helps

[@heywoodjablome2018]

So what caused the parasitic draw

[@StacyLenihan]

The day I picked up my new escape the battery was dead. 3 return trips later I told them that I would hear something going on and off when sitting in the car with engine off and key out of ignition. Tech then found out module needed to be reset. That was only the beginning of my problems. Next a periodic clucking noise. Tech could not hear anything. Next I was smelling sulfer. Engine light eventually came on. Oil down 2 quarts. They replaced turbo. Then I get it back and after 100 miles the engine stalled while driving. Thank God I was not on the highway or I would have gotten slammed into. Now they said it needed a whole new engine . I have had it with the car. Car has been nothing but problem. It is the 1.6 engine. Beware of the 1.6 engine and ones built in July 2015.!

[@Johnsmith-yv8tx]

Did you replace the malfunctioning Instrument Panel Cluster? did it fix it? or the issue is the body control module? Tell us what is your last update? I have similar problem where the drain 2.5 A goes down to 1A then down to 650mA then down to 350mA then back to 2.5A. Any help please if I just know what to replace> 2013 Escape.

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

Yes, the IPC was replaced and it did fix the problem. If yours has the same problem I would check for this concern.

[@Johnsmith-yv8tx]

@@DanielJaegerFilms I got an update of what is going on with my escape: Basically Patristic test show after the car relaxes that I have 255mA, Now pay attention, if I wait it will stay 255mA but if I pulled the negative lead from the DMM and put it back in it will go up to 2.5A then it relaxes down to 255mA then in 2 seconds it goes down to 8.99mA !!! so if leave it like that it will stick at 8.99mA if I pulled the negative again it will go up then back to stay 8.99mA that is good. Then if I opened the door and have the ignition on and then turn off remove the key and close the door it will go up then the amp on DMM shows after it relaxes to again 255mA or 265mA and stays like that until I pull one of the DMM leads and put it back that is when it go up to 2.5A then goes down slowly until 8.99mA. Its weird.

[@delvalle4538]

Hi John, could you please let me know if you were able to fix the issue, I do have the same problem and don't even know where to start.

[@nickyspunable]

The rear wiper motor/module is malfunctioning. Pull the rear wiper motor fuse and see if it helps.

[@vosburght]

@@nickyspunable Others are saying this does nothing.

[@babaherecallingyou]

thanks , I am sitting here with this car (rental) wondering why the batt is dead.In this day and age for Ford to have such problem is ridiculous! I would never buy a Ford vehicle! One nice thing about it , it's pretty. :-)

[@josephscholl4848]

what did you do to FIX the problem??

[@TehHijack]

+Joseph Scholl Read the description.

[@ebthepcguy]

+TehHijack He doesn't explain a fix in the description.

[@TehHijack]

Eric Bennett malfunctioning Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) was "awakening" itself and fluttering the gauges, causing other modules in the vehicle to "awaken" as well. This created an excessive drain on the battery, which eventually ran it completely dead. This video is not bout explaining how to fix the problem, he is simply documenting all of the weird damage his vehicles have.

[@ebthepcguy]

Trololololo

[@calisthenicsnoob9990]

Battery just drained on my 2017 escape, so weird was driving it the day before and this morning completely dead, it is spring not cold weather, wtf!

[@applesofgold2622]

Mine too. Looked this video up because of it.

[@calisthenicsnoob9990]

@@applesofgold2622 i changed the battery, everything seems to be fine now. Apparently batteries only last 3 years now. My parents have the 2013 escape, its been close to 7 years and no battery problems at all!

[@applesofgold2622]

I had a 14 before this and no issues. This 17 has been inreresting to say the least.

[@schraderade]

Same thing with our 2017 escape. Pain in the butt to get the battery out. Going to get it tested soon.

[@MikeMike91103]

I have a 2013 Escape that I have to replace the battery every 2 years cause of some parasitic draw

[@robertfox4501]

Yeah my 2016 Ford Escape is doing the same thing with the gages and the battery keeps dying

[@personaldronerepair6141]

Well what in the hell was the cause?!

[@mikebluntblunt6597]

I have replaced my battery in my 2014 four times I can't get much more than a year for each battery.

[@chris36771]

The draw is coming from your window wiper motor both front and back. Make sure they are turned off. Haven't an an issue since on my 2014 Escape Titanium.

[@vosburght]

I thought the same, but now know it's not related to mine, since it's happened twice now. I'm thinking weather change since the temp dropped.

[@pocketaces5258]

so how the hell do you fix it!!!!!!!!!!!

[@UnitedRecording]

PocketAces return it and buy a Chevy Traverse

[@worldbestsoldiers]

replace the fucked up cluster

[@paulparoma]

You buy a Toyota or a KIA.

[@eaglefeather]

Throw that away and but a Peugeot 407 or 508

[@paulparoma]

+Ivan Lesca No, get a Dacia Logan instead.

[@superzombiefan89]

so bad cluster?

[@joeyp6704]

Never seen that before in my life!

[@alanback9929]

I am having this problem with my Ford Kuga 2014, it has only done 18,000 miles and the battery has gone dead 4 times and have had to get the recovery people out on each occasion, the local Ford garage have done tests but say they can`t find anything and I have just spent money on a new battery. Is there anything I can say or tell the Ford garage to do to have them put it right.

[@bradhaeffner9960]

ya, see you found guages fluttering, but what is the cause??? faulty cluster? not good video without a solution

[@Feelybadrupprick]

Why are you guys thanking him all he did was tell you his cars fucked up. No solutions. Mines doing it too...WHAT IS THE ANSWER

[@applesofgold2622]

Mine are fluttering...2017 titanium escape and dead battery. Whats the issue?

[@lisamanv]

I have the same car and the same problem. If you get it figured out I would love to know. I have an appointment next week. Also, have you ever had wiper problems? I am getting the motor on one side in the front replaced.

[@injeralover]

2017 titanium here with the same problem. I think I replaced the battery last September for no reason. Happened a month ago and then today.

[@mikeporter6795]

What was the point of the video? You didn't show us a single thing you did to set up the Multimeter and didn't address how it was fixed, if it was fixed.

[@gpowerdragon9852]

a ghost lives in the car I'm sure of it

[@cassander27]

This is what is happening to my car. Is there a reason why?

[@violentxkbunge4840]

a bunch of retards over at FORD (fix or repair daily) dont know how to make a good car

[@gl3605]

Because of the ridiculous battery location alone I will NEVER buy a Ford again...ever. F them. They put it there so 99% of the owners would have to bring it into the Dealership for battery replacement at a cost of around $325.00. Plus I highly doubt that these engines could even reach 200k miles. I'll be trading this pos for a Toyota asap.

[@chevyhs]

There's a recall for this

[@cdcollister]

I just searched the Ford recall site and it did not find a recall even though my 2016 Ford Escape has this exact problem. Would you be willing to share the site where you found the recall? Much appreciated, thanks!

[@brendamcdonald6602]

@@cdcollister My 2017 Escape has this exact problem and my dealership hasn't figured this out.

[@Anthonymarachev47]

So how do you fix it

[@seanshad]

Thanks so much. Save me lots of money. By the way was it a cluster problem?

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

Yes, replacing the cluster fixed the problem!

[@1ns4ne1d10t]

Watch and learn. This is why you buy German or Japanese.

[@milfordcivic6755]

All the more reason to buy a honda

[@michaelzeal844]

cause Honda never has any problems right? lol... You dink.

[@RicardoCanedoMX]

+#Getonmylevel Cooking The Japanese brands are way more reliable than American cars.

[@UnitedRecording]

Honda and Toyota aren't any better.

[@RicardoCanedoMX]

UnitedRecording Well the reliability ratings prove otherwise. Japanese Marques are always quite high in reliability unlike the American and German Equivalents.

[@matt9c1]

No, I won't buy a Honda. I won't be a self centered douche like you that has to go around cramming "buy a honda" comments down people throats.

[@KVF6363]

2001 Ford Escape xtl 4WD Auto..strange seeing this, when i turned off my car took the key out, went into the store, came out and my daughter said that the stereoi kept playing, it never happened again...thanks for this video clip..but now i have worse problems...never again will i buy a FORD!! they suck

[@nokithecat]

Bad Diod?

[@TheOzthewiz]

DIODE

[@Sunny-T69]

I have a 2014 Ford Escape. We had this issue the day that we drove it off the lot. After many times going back to dealer, many tows, and many new batteries we realized that it only did this when we had a cd in the radio. After shutting off car we could hear a noise coming from the cd compartment as if it was spinning the cd. We pulled out the cd and turned the power off to the radio. Never had the issue again. After many months, I tried to turn radio on and it still does not drain my battery. However, we still do not use the CD player or even attempt to try to. Weird I know. But true. 6 years later and now I’m having the issue of not going in to gear from park. Thank you KZbin bc I found a video on how to fix.

[@danielmarks3882]

I have a 2014 Ford Escape Titanium 1.6L And just the other day I had that issue wouldn’t go into any gear and I suspected the shift linkage either broke or the bushing poped out and I check and sure enough my shift linkage bushing was gone so I ordered a new one just waiting on it to arrive. Luckily the shift linkage is right under the air filter box next to the transmission dip stick so it was easy to get to a little tight but doable.

[@Sunny-T69]

@@danielmarks3882 mine ended up being the bushing popping off due to a crack. I replaced it and haven’t had any issues with gear shift. Good luck with yours. Mine is running like a champ!

[@tenzackyogi1742]

its really complicated. Because of Proprietary software, Normal diagnostic software doesnt work out.

[@tenzackyogi1742]

Needs solid Codes/program Matchup system.

[@williamwhitworth4349]

Poor design. Under the cowl, really? Not only that, but the AC components are largely inside the cabin and require the entire dash panel removal. Ford needs to have a technician along side their design engineers that basically know nothing about auto maintenance.

[@JSVSouth]

The car is possessed. Call an exorcist.

[@Poebat]

yep

[@1112223333111]

meanwhile some goof in Iran on a laptop is laughing his ass off hacking cars online

[@deanmurray4953]

buy a ampere meter , unhook positive post , install amp meter in circuit

[@AnsweringAtheism]

Or better yet, get a clamo-on DC amp meter. They are as cheap as 39 bucks on amazon and you won't have to break any connections to measure current..

[@stephenpace5623]

Wouldn't happen on a Subaru

[@johnhutchison9782]

Nope, those only drink oil like a sailor on shore leave, and the parent company says that's "normal".

[@CoffeeQuilava]

nice find.

[@sheagoff6009]

That thing with the gauge is scary af. I would bolt out of the car if that happened to my car.

[@chidozieugboma1]

hahahaha

[@unsweatiestdad1209]

Im currently going through this

[@britgreiner8765]

Sounds like my 2013 Ford Escape

[@libertyprime6247]

I love how dumb some people are. You see a new vehicle that has not even been out a year yet have a "minor" glitch and you run for the hills lol. GM recalls 3.6 million vehicles for airbag-software problems recently are you going to run from them next? Or every car company ever? With a vehicle you are driving science and science is not infallible, no company is no matter the price you pay.

[@s0nnyburnett]

Not really minor when the car won't work because of it. And it's always the worst shit coming from the big 3 here because they still haven't learned their lesson.

[@libertyprime6247]

Just saying i would call it minor in the sense that it does not endanger others because of the glitch unlike GMs airbag one. It does inconvenience them requiring a jump start and i agree reflects poorly on that part of the vehicle having the issues and the QC of Ford for letting it slip by. I feel the big 3 catch a lot of flak unfairly because they can be more popular and therefore issues more commonly known then imports in some areas and with all the extra crap in cars nowadays it will only get worse on power draw issues.

[@Omikoshi78]

Was about to pull the trigger on a new 2017 Escape 2.0L Eco Titanium. I'm steering clear of ford after seeing this video. What a joke.

[@lanemorrow5513]

Edith really? So you think this one or two examples is reason to not purchase a vehicle? So you'd better not buy ANY vehicle because no matter what you choose, if you search on KZbin, you'll find problems.

[@karmasutra4774]

Yeah too many issues. Stay away lol. I have had a used 2011 Scion tc longer than we had this 2016 Ford. Brakes and tires on tc in that time once each. The Ford has had so many issues and now this issue ..

[@pancholopez4069]

and thats why you buy a toyota

[@pyrusmasterdan1]

🤣

[@kerrybaker371]

I did! And my frame rusted in half 😂

[@JonEhBee]

My man

[@mgkl8465]

same shits here 2013 escape 1.6l 4wd

[@karmasutra4774]

Same

[@hondatrix]

Wait till it catches fire...

[@gpowerdragon9852]

battery kill switch will also easy fix it pretty handy for the winters

[@heyitschinoable]

That'll fix the symptom, but not the problem.

[@nokithecat]

Ford Mistake !

[@Jerry-fx8ih]

Omg, 2016 car! Can't trust American cars any more.

[@UnitedRecording]

Jerry All brands are built to fail after a few years... that way you have to buy a new one

[@epriiih]

not 2003 toyota

[@UnitedRecording]

Gryazev-Shipunov My GM vehicle has 320,000 miles. Moral of the story, my Hondas and Toyotas never made it that long. Stick with GM.

[@epriiih]

UnitedRecording GM truck with huge engine? Bigger engine lasts longer usually

[@UnitedRecording]

epriiih Nope, just a regular car.

[@Carmafixcars]

Found on road dead

[@ignaciomanduja6979]

56xc

[@applesofgold2622]

My neighbor had a 15 and her died yesterday

[@1112223333111]

wow what a piece of shit. No wonder the big 3 goes bankrupt, the cars are junk and are hard to access parts to repair

[@BRBingeDrinker]

last i checked ford didn't go bankrupt though.

[@UnitedRecording]

BR Binge is correct, but it's also worth pointing out that GM is substantially larger than Ford and WAY larger at the time of the bankruptcy... and Ford rolled over and took a loan, which they still owe on. Naturally, GM doesn't owe on the loan they took any longer

[@s0nnyburnett]

How do you like your 2017 Mercury?

[@lanemorrow5513]

I believe Fords financing deal has been satisfied

[@lanemorrow5513]

Just as nice as the 2017 Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs

[@norithyem7790]

Just buy a nissan