2016 Kia Rio 1.6L GDI Timing chain replacement quick overview and key points

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If your doing this job, you’ll need:
1) Timing set (chain, tensioner, and two chain guides)
2) Two O-rings for the oil pump suction and discharge side. These go in between the timing cover and the engine block, as the oil pump is built into the timing cover.
3) Ideally both intake and exhaust camshaft phasers. For this car, this solved the timing issues, as I found the chain had not jumped timing like I expected it to.
4) RTV sealant, as that is what the factory uses to seal the timing cover to the engine. Pay special attention to the water pump area.
Use two M6 bolts to remove the timing cover from engine, using the factory tapped holes by the two dowel pins. DO NOT PRY!

[@jaywhite1850]

Found the part number for the o-rings. Kia/Hyundai #21142-2b000 (part code 1710af). Hopefully this will save someone headaches trying to find it.

[@tadsworkshop]

Nice, I’ll add that to the video description. Nice work Jay

[@diegovelasquez4005]

Thanks for posting a great walkthrough. What kit did you use? I was going to replace a burnt valve when i noticed the timing chain was skipped :/

[@tadsworkshop]

Thanks for the kind words. I bought an “A-Premium” kit on Amazon. Normally I would try to find a name brand kit through rockauto, or a local parts store, but was surprised that there is almost no aftermarket kits for this engine. I found that kit on Amazon, and it was fast, and ultimately, it worked well. I also used the same brands camshaft phasers as well.

[@diegovelasquez4005]

@@tadsworkshop Thank you so much! I've trying to find the parts but surprisingly there's hardly any available.

[@tadsworkshop]

@@diegovelasquez4005yes, I was also surprised by this. Rockauto does have a kit, but no picture. But keep in mind, that Amazon kit will have one guide that cannot be used, as I pointed out in the video. I just reused the original guide on the radiator side of the engine. Also, be sure to use those 6mm bolt holes by the dowels pins to pull that timing cover off the engine. Don’t pry on it!

[@diegovelasquez4005]

Thank you so much! I will definitely look into the rock auto part. Thanks for following up, I appreciate you!

[@diegovelasquez4005]

Hey so I put everything together according to spec and it ran great but after a while I noticed it ran rough and then there was coolant in the oil after getting a p0108 and white smoke in the exhaust. I doubt its the cylinder gasket could a bad seal on the timing cover for the water pump be the culprit?

[@koens1]

My kia rio 2012, with 251.000 on it just starter making a ticking noise. When i opened the valvecover i noticed that when rotating the engine, the chain tightens and then loosens. Which made me think the chain isnt good anymore. Do u think changing it like this would solve the problem? And if so, what kit did u order on amazon, do u have a link maybe? Thanks for the video by the way, it helps alot!

[@tadsworkshop]

Like and subscribe if you haven’t already please! But yes, I do think you should replace your timing chain and tensioner before it skips timing and causes major engine damage to your valve train. Here is the chain I bought. I usually try to avoid no-name brands like this, but the reality is there is very little aftermarket support for this timing chain. But this kit works, and the Kia I fixed is still alive and well. I would also recommend you buy new camshaft phasers as well. In your case, with the high mileage you have, but a new oil pump, which is essentially the entire timing cover. Oil volume is critical for high mileage vvt systems. A-Premium Engine Timing Chain Kit... www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9W6BB1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Here is intake phaser: amzn.to/4amxxMm Here is exhaust: amzn.to/43xIjxd

[@user-ox1nd3ff9o]

hi, I have exactly the same Kia Rio and the same engine, but the VVTI clutch is noisy

[@tadsworkshop]

Time to replace both vvt phasers and the timing set! Not a bad job overall. Just take your time and exercise care.

[@user-ox1nd3ff9o]

@@tadsworkshop thank you, my phase shifter is very noisy, both of them are very noisy, but for now I don’t have the money to change them, but I will change them soon, I’m from Kazakhstan

[@ScottFillwock]

Hi tadd, i am located in Michigan and have sn 2014 eco diesel that needs some work, how do i contact uour business? Scott

[@jaywhite1850]

Do you have the part number for those oil pump o-rings? My dealer can’t seem to find the seal at all and I’m planning on doing this job soon. I found part numbers for the 2.0 engine (21356-2E021 & 21355-2E021) but I’m at a loss since the two I need are supposed to be identical. Should I just go with high pressure o-rings from a parts store that are close enough?

[@tadsworkshop]

I ended up using some o-rings from those generic o-ring master kits you see everywhere. It worked out well, but if I could do it again, I would seek out the original o-rings. You might have to be your own parts guy and delve through the Kia parts diagrams online to find those part numbers.

[@jaywhite1850]

@@tadsworkshop Thanks for the reply. What did you use to seal around the water pump? The repair manual calls for Three Bond (part #$$$$$) but Permatex makes rtv specifically for water pumps and t-stat housings.

[@tadsworkshop]

@@jaywhite1850 I would use gray permatex RTV - that particular RTV is designed to go in between two rigid machined surfaces, so that would really be ideal.

[@jaywhite1850]

@@tadsworkshop I’m running into an issue where I’m getting resistance when I manually turn the crankshaft to make sure everything is in sync. I had everything together and was making my revolutions but the marked links were out of sync and I hit a point where the crank wouldn’t turn at all. I disassembled everything and CAREFULLY lined everything back up but the crank will only turn about a quarter turn. Any suggestions on a next step?

[@tadsworkshop]

@@jaywhite1850 did you remove the spark plugs so your not fighting against compression? I’m not saying that’s your issue but that will make it easier to get a feel for the engine. Just make sure when your setting your timing, your doing it with cylinder 1 at TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure the exhaust lobe looks like it’s about to actuate the exhaust valve for the exhaust stroke.