2024 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Revealed - New Dive Watch Is Here And Spectacular

The 2024 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dive watch is here, and it's fabulous. As the first redesign of the iconic Blancpain watch since 2007, the new 42mm Fifty Fathoms challenges both Rolex and Audemars Piguet in the luxury watch marketplace. With gold and titanium case options, a base price of $16,600, and many strap options, the new Fifty Fathoms lays claim to status as the world's greatest luxury dive watch.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms reference 5010 is a 2024 redesign of the 45mm watch that embodied the "core" of a sprawling collection of luxury dive watches. Despite impressive quality and technology, the 45mm reference 5015 was too large for the 2020s and collectors who associate oversized watches with dated trends of the 2000s. Now available in grade 23 titanium and rose gold, the 42mm reference 5010 is designed to compete with watches like the now 41mm Rolex Submariner and 43mm Rolex Sea Dweller.
Internally, the new Fifty Fathoms retains the previous model's automatic caliber 1315. With three mainspring barrels, and 120 hours of power reserve, the 1315 remains more than class competitive with rivals from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and even Richard Mille. The free sprung balance, silicon hairspring, and six position adjustment ensure precision and durability. Fine finish including beveled bridges, polished screws, snailed bridge tops, and solarization distinguish caliber 1315 as a premier haute horlogerie movement.
Externally, Blancpain has retained the Fifty Fathoms' distinctive sailcloth straps while adding new NATO strap and "tropic" rubber strap options. Sailcloth and rubber straps can be ordered with a full folding clasp. The NATO strap is available with a pin buckle. For watch collectors who want a more robust dive watch, the titanium Fifty Fathoms can be purchased with a bracelet.
From the dial side, it's hard to distinguish the Fifty Fathoms references 5010 and 5015 unless they're side by side. The new watch retains the old model's beloved features including quarter Arabic numerals, a cambered sapphire-capped bezel, and broadsword hands. As before, the 120-click dive bezel is luminescent around its full 360 degree circumference. Screws continue to fix the lugs in place, and the diving depth potential continues to be defined by a 300-meter water resistance rating.
In other news, Tim discusses the Hermes Birkin bag lawsuit in depth. Potential implications for the luxury watch industry are examined alongside the potential for impact on luxury goods as varied as fashion and Ferraris. Rolex, and Patek Philippe dealers are considered in the context of the lawsuit and the applicability of antitrust laws in the United States.
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[@goldencalf5144]

Wow, Swatch really outdid themselves with this new fifty fathoms model.

[@davidr2802]

Just tried on the black and blue in Taipei yesterday in the Blancpain Boutique. Wears very well and was readily available. Comes with a pretty standard tropic strap and the deployment clasp is an extra which is something to reflect upon for an $17000 + timepiece. In the same mall went to the VC boutique tried on the 36m white gold 1921, JLC, green Polaris boutique edition (readily available unlike Zurich last year), Omega, new white Speedy available (no Ed White), GS, tried on the pink snowflake (nice!) then finished off at Rolex which of course had nothing available and even the sales people were embarrassed. Well at least we got free bottles of water as consolation.

[@FirestormAA]

Always learn lots from Tim shows each & every time ❤

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Thank you for supporting my shows! Best, Tim

[@FirestormAA]

@WatchBoxReviews Not at all Tim, appreciate you & your team efforts for making us horology lover learn more & deep into this passion we all love. Thanks

[@mikemurphy8996]

Blancpain 50 Fathoms is one of the greatest watch names of all time

[@the1916company]

It is - and enduring. I'd take it over everything else in the dive segment. And now at 42mm, it's a realistic ambition for me. Best, Tim

[@henrylee4428]

Agree, and you have also to love the Spinnaker Fifty Phantoms ….😂

[@Salikaan]

OMG a Voltron reference, my childhood flashed before my eyes. Great content as always. Thanks Tim!

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I would *never* miss an opportunity to reference Voltron. Best, Tim

[@AbdulRWatches]

Great show Tim and crew, the time difference got me this time 😅😂 I think the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is the most underrated luxury diver there is, I love that 40mm version, but the 43mm is the most suitable price wise.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Thanks Abdul! I also like that 40mm, but I'd live with 42mm to get the 1315 caliber. Best, Tim

[@steve_troy]

Great show again Tim! Always the best part of my Monday. Appreciate the look into the possible legal ramifications of this lawsuit.

[@YongJoonPaek]

i am an antitrust economist that currently practices in the field. this is fascinating stuff. Tying and bundling cases are quite complicated. The vertical integration aspect of this is nuanced, because third party downstream retailers can also engage in tying or bundling and its unclear if that is "antitrust". Ultimately though, plaintiffs will need to argue a sufficiently narrow market definition. For example, one could maybe draw a circle around "hand made ultra luxury bags". Substitution patterns that customers exhibit between various price points of bags might show that they don't cross shop across price bands too much, which will be an advantageous data point for plaintiffs.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Thank you for this - real - insight into the topic! I suspect that if Hermes really is the only retail source for its own bags in the USA, then it'll come down to a question of whether Ferragamo, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, and Louis Vuitton are cross-shopped or substituted. If you can't get a Birkin, do you buy a Chanel or BV of similar design, substance, and price? If yes, that would undermine the plaintiffs. And if you *can* get a substantially similar bag but simply don't want it, is that really evidence of an antitrust violation by Hermes? It seems more like a caprice by the customer and beyond the will or means of Hermes to compel. It's almost like the "soup Nazi" in Seinfeld. If he makes the best soup but won't sell it to you, will you starve? Most would go to the next best soup vendor or get pizza. I'll add that it would be more incriminating if Hermes were doing the opposite; using monopolistic pricing power to undercut and drive its handbag rivals out of the market or out of business. That's sort of what got AT&T nabbed in 1974. Best, Tim

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

The kind of massive companies generally cited in these suits tend to be those that truly can bend entire industries to their will. The Justice Department's recent action against Apple for its pervasive electronic ecosystem, gas fees, and compatibility denials is an example. Giant gilded-age oil, steel, and railroad companies or AT&T and Microsoft in the modern era are other good examples. But manufacturers of a particular handbag in a saturated luxury market? I have my doubts. Best, Tim

[@AlinFlair]

Great show Tim ! Very professional. 🐐

[@austinzizzi1142]

Okay I’ve been waiting for like 10 years for blancpain to release this

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I'm THRILLED to see this. A titanium/blue can't wind my way quickly enough. Best, Tim

[@timehill556]

An in-depth review of the new Fifty Fathoms, and an informative, interesting, and important discussion of the watch industry. Thank you, Tim.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

It was fun for me, too! The business of watches can be as interesting as the watches themselves at times. Best, Tim

[@thlee3]

40mm Ti Fifty would have broken internet

[@BenTramer]

Great show Tim!

[@the1916company]

Thank you! I found it more interesting and exciting to present than the usual roll call of models. Best, Tim

[@simonassouline1230]

When Tim speaks, people take notification and listen with enthusiasm and intrigue! As usual, your blog is phenomenal! Tim, what road bike and group set do you ride? Thanks!

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I'm on a [Bill] Holland Exogrid running Shimano DA 7970, the original Dura Ace. My wheels are Ambrosio Nemesis/Chris King R45s that I glue with Continental Gatorskins. Cockpit is Deda, saddle is Fizik Antares, and I've got CK headset and BB. My crank is an SRM from the DA7900 days. It's a 12-year old build that I've ridden over 50,000 miles at this point. Best, Tim

[@simonassouline1230]

@@the1916companywatchreviews Great Road bike!

[@TheWinterist]

Great show Tim, thanks for doing what you do

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I'm glad you enjoy it! Lately, I've been questioning the wisdom of investing so much weekly time in this show, so it does help to get positive feedback from people who regularly enjoy the program. Best, Tim

[@TheWinterist]

I'm sure it's hard to decide on the best "product" to produce. You are prolific. For our own longevity of enjoyment, please avoid burnout, weekly is a lot of work, and I'm sure it is hard to come up with fresh topics. If you did every 2 weeks or month there'd be too much to talk about and you'd have way more fun writing for it. Or get a cohost that you have chemistry with (Armand?) and let them write every other week so you can just enjoy without prep. @@the1916companywatchreviews

[@TheWinterist]

Don't get burned out. Move to every 2 weeks or get a cohost who writes every other episode. You are prolific and can't do it all. @@the1916companywatchreviews

[@huxleyorwellrand3137]

Gotta fix your intro.

[@the1916company]

New YT encoding computer is on order. Best, Tim

[@michaelearly5056]

Naw - his intro is why I subscribed.

[@michaelearly5056]

​@@the1916companyyour intro is mechanical, just like it should be. Digital intro = quartz movement.

[@makarovmatsumo3125]

it's not that bad

[@ReppinGoldSteel]

What happened to the intro song? Was it edited?

[@adnoh]

It’s been messed up for a while already

[@the1916company]

Must be an issue with the streaming computer trying to encode the file in real time. It's a decade-old CPU that's been fried a couple of times. A new computer is on order. Best, Tim

[@amickinflorida9008]

This was the best show yet! Great job. Best wishes.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Thank you! I do my best to keep it fresh - and fun for me, too. Best, Tim

[@impexRQ]

Hi Tim, hope you can get your hands on the Blancpain FF 42mm very soon and make a nice outstanding review as you always do 🙌🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@JizzyNinja]

I’m glad Tim is still pursuing his dream career in law, good for him ha. Fun show, think the Blancpain is fantastic!

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Ironic that I find it more interesting now than when I worked at a law firm out of college. Best, Tim

[@DialsandCrowns]

What clock is that in the beginning?

[@henkrpe3249]

Great show Tim! Got one question, and one comment... Lawyers are expensive, who is paying for all this? In any case, it will be interesting to see if brands are forced to disclose their allocation methods during discovery...

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

For the brands themselves or the plaintiffs in the Hermes case? I suspect the attorneys are in it as a publicity stunt if nothing else. They got our attention, right? The plaintiffs themselves are probably paying, but the law firm likely sees this as a marketing stunt win or lose. Either way, they win. Best, Tim

[@joshuajuarez3471]

And I loved green before and after this phase or fad

[@dannysimenauer5745]

As a Tim Mosso fan, I love how a Navy veteran who knows the watch industry, tries to determine if Hermes violated antitrust law as a SME. Although I did feel that the Rolex AD's may be liable, I do believe Tim nailed it when he did give his opinion that Rolex is probably shielded form the Sherman Act since Rolex does not direct the AD's what specific customers they can sell watches. Great video from Tim as usual, but please stick to the watch industry.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I'm *definitely* not an SME on law. I know a thing or two about watches and luxury goods, and I see some interesting comparisons. KZbin doesn't need another watch show about Rolex, James Bond, AP prices, and steel sports watches. This show was a change of pace for my own benefit as much as anyone's. Best, Tim

[@dannysimenauer5745]

@@the1916companywatchreviews No problem. You know I always respect your opinion. I just noticed you looked a little uncomfortable interpreting the Sherman Act vis-a-vis Hermes. We all need to get outside our comfort zones to take on new challenges .

[@thlee3]

9:03 where can i find the breakdown

[@froggyinchina]

I love my 5066F

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

As well you should. It's an incredible watch! Best, Tim

[@sardendibs]

The FF is possibly the best example of the toolwatch-to-jewellery move in the watch industry. I owned one for a couple of months before selling it on and found it silly. The sunburst dial. The white gold, applied indicies. The size. It’s essentially a garish imitation of what used to be a matter-of-fact toolwatch and not in very good taste, IMO (and don’t get me started on the various full-Liberace versions, e.g. blue/rose gold/tourbillon/chronograph mongrels. A toned down, 40mm matt dial with painted indicies version would be a classic. For now, file under (expensive) trinkets.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

All luxury watches are silly extravagances. None are "tools" unless we're talking about G-Shocks or Marathon GSARs. Best, Tim

[@sardendibs]

@@the1916companywatchreviews Absolutely agree. But, still, there are degrees to madness, i.e. the silliness.

[@richardwarren2024]

Does anyone know which Belstaff jacket Tim is wearing? I’d like to get it in a different color.

[@the1916company]

I'll check. We bought this a few years ago at Boyd's in Philadelphia, so the store might be able to offer more insight than I can. Best, Tim

[@richardwarren2024]

@@the1916company Thanks, Tim. I think I found it. The Belstaff Revolve Mixed Media jacket. It looks terrific. And thank you for the always outstanding critical coverage you do.

[@weareveinumb718]

I went into AL&S…your face could be melting on the display case & they wouldn’t even walk up to you. 😂😂

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

That sounds like them. They weren't so proud before the Odysseus - back when you could get 30% discounts right out of the factory boutique. Best, Tim

[@kyledriscollmusic]

yea as much as it might suck that a brand wants to gate keep it's popular products by forcing sales of less popular products, I just don't see a court deeming that illegal

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I kinda think that a damning antitrust case would be made if Hermes had so much power over the market, economies of scale, and customer choice that it could drive its rivals out of business by dumping bags at cost or starting a price war only it could win. That's not remotely what's happening. As far as controlling supply of a "unique" product and artificially raising prices, I'd be shocked to learn that Hermes' sew-up leather bags contain any unique tech or proprietary manufacturing secrets unknown to Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and others. If you can't get a Birkin and file antitrust claims, you're not a victim of a monopoly, you're just a brand snob. Best, Tim

[@TheRacerRich]

The part you missed is the anti tying provision. The hardest part is going to be proving it, but not that once proven there was a violation

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Given that it was all verbal and informal, what evidence does the plaintiff have to prove the violation? Best, Tim

[@TheRacerRich]

@WatchBoxReviews that's the real reason they're trying to get a class together, and I suspect their problem will be finding people willing to spill the beans knowing they will be forever blackballed by Hermes for it.

[@Palowaski]

Tribute to Mil spec is still the one

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

If nothing else, Blancpain really does offer an option for everyone. There's a TON of Fifty Fathoms models in the current and back catalog. Best, Tim

[@stickshifter8]

Nice watch, but almost $17k for the cheapest model on sailcloth and pin buckle is a stretch. This would would be a Submariner assassin if priced @ $13k.

[@TM-ic1eb]

I’m guessing, before too long, that will not be an unreasonable offer at the AD

[@markgiles8527]

The MilSub in titanium plz

[@nelsona.7950]

I’m no fan of the bundling practices but I agree that this law suit will likely fail for the reasons you stated.

[@ListenToPowerViolence]

It's nice to see new offerings from one of the hungrier Sub homage makers.

[@88bsides]

Omg how did they not bring the propeller rotor over?

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I would have LOVED to see this. Hopefully, it's not too late. A rotor is a simple thing to redesign and replace from year to year. Even if we don't get the prop, I suspect we could see a change. I'm hopeful. Best, Tim

[@link4444swords]

It's mainly the price now that's mostly a barrier as opposed to the proportions. Of course, as unlikely as it is, having it in 40mm would be the nail in the coffin that will bring more people to purchase.

[@tonkaty]

If the lawsuit is succesful, it'll just force the luxury brands to standardize their sales bundling process. No reason why a luxury manufacturer can't follow the template outlined by Airline Loyalty Programs where special treatment and discounts are awarded based on account spend.

[@jjpthe2]

Tim, its retraint of trade. Easy charge, very hard to prove. Brand can then say,"ok, we will open it up to everyone," then just say they are out of stock.

[@djgingernips]

Spectacular? Not with that date placement. Did they colab with Seiko on this?

[@robertcurtis513]

On the antitrust issue - without having read the complaint sounds like a “tying” claim. It’s a violation of Sherman act section 2 to require a customer to buy one product in order to buy another product - the watch biz calls that “bundling” The issue I suspect is whether plaintiffs can prove that Hermes has market power in the relevant market .. I’m not a Hermes bag buyer but I doubt Hermes has a monopoly in the “luxury bag” market - it’s too big … and this is the trick - do consumers have a choice but to buy the “tied” products … ? They probably don’t have the choice to buy a Kelly or a Birkin, but it’s not clear that’s the relevant market Same with watches Lange won’t sell you a handwerkskunst unless you have a history .. Patek won’t sell uou a 5374 unless you have history The legal question is similar .. the outcomes will be driven by the state of the competitive markets in the different industries - very fact driven and dependent on detailed economic analysis

[@the1916company]

I kinda think that a damning antitrust case would be made if Hermes had so much power over the market, economies of scale, and customer choice that it could drive its rivals out of business by dumping bags at cost or starting a price war only it could win. That's not remotely what's happening. As far as controlling supply of a "unique" product and artificially raising prices, I'd be shocked to learn that Hermes' sew-up leather bags contain any unique tech or proprietary manufacturing secrets unknown to Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and others. If you can't get a Birkin and file antitrust claims, you're not a victim of a monopoly, you're just a brand snob. Best, Tim

[@robertcurtis513]

@@the1916company agree thematically. you're first point though would actually be a predatory pricing case and not tying, and the market power required for predatory pricing is higher than for tying (not to legally geek out here)... but it matters in thinking about hw this resolves. as to your second paragraph, a prohibited Tying arrangement "deny[s] competitors free access to the market for the tied product, not because the party imposing the tying requirements has a better product or a lower price but because of his power or leverage in another market. At the same time buyers are forced to forego their free choice between competing products." northern pac rr v us. the argument would be.. watchco's dominance with hype watch x allows it to tie or bundle a product it does not have dominance in, say a common rose gold dress watch, and that tie deprives a different watch of a sale of a rose gold common dress watch which, but for the tie or bundle, the customer would have preferred to buy. im not suggesting there is liability. I am suggesting the outcome of the Hermes case warrants watching (pun intended) as it may foreshadow a parallel result

[@joshuajuarez3471]

Paper-info-intro-,bro!!

[@huxleyorwellrand3137]

One issue with the lawsuit that will come up is unjust enrichment. If you incentivize dealers and/or down to the SA level to conspire with third parties to resell at inflated prices could be cause. Ala Rolex cpo.

[@the1916company]

Rolex CPO prices aren't governed by any agreements with the dealers by conspiracy or any other pact. Neither are exclusive commercial zones, which tend to be a factor with physical dealer showrooms but not CPO online sales. In theory, every CPO Rolex dealer's ability to list and deliver similar watches globally should drive down prices by creating redundancy of inventory and greater availability. Best, Tim

[@minusED]

Please no propellers and other childish stuff! I’m quite sure that in person that grey-gold oscillating mass would be killer. Just imagine one from Bathyscaphe (it’s very similar) but add a bit of gold - it must be great! In fact, never understood gold mass fully greyed out and just saying 18K. Size wise, my mil-spec often felt just a a bit too small, so 42 ti on bracelet would be main pretender to be "one watch you’d ever need"

[@CaptainZed]

Tim? I bet I've been on your live shows longer than anyone...

[@the1916company]

And I thank you for that. Best, Tim

[@CaptainZed]

@WatchBoxStudios by the way, if you get a moment... a friend is torn between the Blanc Pain Bathyscaphe complete calendar vs the Omega blue side with the aventurine dial.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

@@CaptainZed Try before he buys. The Blue Side aventurine is very thick. I just saw it this past weekend. All versions of the Bathyscaphe will be a better fit. He might love the Omega, but it's the kind of thing he needs to approve in person or have a right to return it if he buys online and doesn't love the fit. Best, Tim

[@CaptainZed]

@@the1916companywatchreviews thank you Tim I will let him know your thoughts. I purchased several watches in the past solely due to your reviews such as the FPJ Elegante, the AP Diver & the JLC Master Compressor Chronograph. I am sure the entire watch community appreciates your expertise. Cheers, Ken

[@troyHD]

Right so does it mean that because I can go buy a speedmaster and even the Tudor chronograph equivalent, Rolex isn’t stopping anyone for being able to buy a chronograph by holding onto Daytonas for vip clients

[@the1916company]

Rolex isn't holding on to any watches for VIPs. Independent dealers still make that call. At least until Rolex integrates Bucherer in full. Best, Tim

[@docfink]

This or a Yachtmaster??🤔

[@vdbdg]

Lange doesn’t force you to buy models you don’t want to get the Odysseus but you do need to spend a lot on watches you like.

[@the1916company]

I've spoken to quite a few people who were told that 1) their purchases at independent Lange ADs do not count towards future ALS purchases in any way and 2) that many models - not just the Odysseus - require purchase of unwanted watches to obtain wanted watches. Dato Lumen, Zeitwerk Lumen, Odysseus, and others - must include bundles of unwanted qualifying purchases. Best, Tim

[@pavanbharteey7269]

Now that most Lange’s are selling under retail (price), is this really an issue?

[@vdbdg]

@@the1916companyCheers Tim, it might be the case in the US then. Here in HK you have to spend but in things you actually like, like a 1 Perpetual for example. They won't force ladies watches on you.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

@@vdbdg That's definitely possible. Most of the reports I've received have been from domestic US buyers. Despite these folks not knowing each other or being in communication, the stories all match a common narrative. I hope Lange internationally shows more respect. Richemont and its brands do have regional-level management that can set the tone for better or worse. Best, Tim

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

@@pavanbharteey7269 A lot depends on what Lange you're trying to buy. I still think that old Lange dress watches are a great buy. Dealing with the boutiques seems to be a chore -- at least here in the US. Best, Tim

[@AS-po9pm]

2024 a 20 k watch with 14,3 mm thickness is unacceptable.

[@gelmibson883]

Tim looks and wears like he was thrown out of an Hermes store.

[@rpersaud562]

Tesla roadster 🤣 Is the Tesla Roadster in the room with you right now?

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

? Best, Tim

[@ABC-fl8zb]

This is such a pathetic lawsuit. These people probably wouldn’t even be as interested in Birkins if they were available as they want

[@dbsurtanicolorsnscent386]

no case. buyers hv other options.

[@REDDAWN2010]

WTF is Kardy B?? lol…

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

I have no idea. These aren't figures I follow. I'm not even sure I said the name the way it's supposed to be verbalized. Best, Tim

[@badabingbadabongdingdong]

The Blancpain engraving on the side of the case is a dealbreaker for me, its incredibly ugly and Invicta-esque. Terrible design choice that cheapens the look of the entire watch imo.

[@JackoWillMakeLives-loveu]

Cool

[@ernestogarcia8439]

It’s over Timmy the watch market is dead