$20ish 4 Channel Prop Controller Using Arduino (Cr: Mike North)

[@chaoticlogic588]

As a person who has also struggled to teach himself electronic skills and arduino based programming. I can feel your struggle here. My respect for tackling this project and your perseverance.

[@lespaul36]

I started with just the chip itself using ATMel software. Finding Arduino was like drinking from a golden cup as long at the project isn't to big LOL.

[@mnorth1]

Hey man, great job! This is mikkojay :) It is neat to see others have success with this project. After watching your video, I would say that the first thing that jumps out at me is that you could have used MALE-TO-FEMALE jumper wires. This would have saved you a bit of soldering. No big deal though, you used what you had & made it work- so thumbs up for that. I may add a note to the shopping list document to mention this. Regarding the manual button programmer board- I added that functionality because "everyone else had it". I added the button board to the first prototype I ever built, then got it to work. I then disconnected it, and never used it again! Programming from the PC is so much easier, I have since gone that direction and not looked back. I have built no less than a dozen of these and when set up correctly, they do what you tell them to! If anyone attempts this project who is uncomfortable around electricity, I would encourage them to try it, but maybe go with 12v loads first VS 115v line voltages (i.e. don't try to use it to turn your dryer on and off) That, and PLEASE READ THE DOCUMENTATION- there's a lot of it! Thanks, Mike

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Hey thanks Mike! It was a fun project for sure. After doing it once I think the next time will go much smoother. You did an excellent job with the documents. Thanks for all you put into this!!

[@GhoulishCop]

+Mike North Now that Jason has done this video I feel a lot more confident that I'd be able to do it (if Jason can do it then I sure as hell ought to be able to... :) ). I tried making tstraub's boards once and there was so much soldering I f'd it up royally. lol A couple of solders as seems necessary here is far closer to being in my wheelhouse. Thanks for putting it together and I look forward to giving it a shot.

[@MrDangersAhead]

hey mike had a question regarding the key banger. do I still need the resistors if I use the uno. it seemed that the document was referring to the nano. at least that's how interpreted it.

[@mnorth1]

Matthew B The IO pins of the UNO are identical to the NANO, so YES, you would need the resistors. I still stand by my previous comments and opinion that the button board is more trouble than it is worth. I may even remove it from the documentation since it just seems to confuse people and serves little purpose in the practical world. TRUST ME, I have wasted tons of time and money on the button board- it seems neato, but you can program with your PC in the exact same way using the 1,2,3,4 buttons on the keyboard while in "record" mode. That, or you can just craft your sequence on the timeline and play it back to the controller in real-time. Thanks, Mike

[@GhoulishCop]

+Mike North Just curious, but would you be limited to just 4 actions then if you programmed it on the computer? I mean, with the button banger, it's because it's got just 4 buttons that you're limited to 4 events, but if you're programming it on the computer, would you be able to do 5 or 6 or whatever? Obviously, I'm a complete newb at this

[@djryandumais]

Great tutorial, this really eliminates all questions and things I’m 50/50 on. Also, this is an awesome alternative to the expensive controllers out there. Kudos to you and Mike North.

[@asmarteru]

Glad to see things worked out for you. The person who posted the pin-outs on the forum was me. With a ton of help and questions, I was able to build one as well. They really are great little controllers and it does get easier each time you build one. Mike did a great job with the writeup and answering every stupid question. Getting things hooked up to trigger was a challenge as well but not as difficult as soldering. Good luck with part 2. I used my first controller to trigger a pirate cannon. I'm hooked on these now!

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

+The Pirates of North Court Awesome! Thanks IMU for posting that. It was a huge help. I didn't even think to do a search for that diagram.

[@ediblepvc5783]

+Graves Of The Groves Can the controller stand allone and function without being connected to the PC after everything is programmed?

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Oh yeah. Once the sequence and audio files are loaded onto the board then the PC does not need to be connected anymore.

[@ediblepvc5783]

+Graves Of The Groves Fantastic! That makes it a lot easier.

[@ediblepvc5783]

+Graves Of The Groves Can you control more than 4 relays?

[@scottreynolds1961]

Mr Graves Of The Groves I cant wait to see what u do with prop controller. I also ran into Mike's video about 6 months ago and started going ebay crazy as well. I have all the stuff but have not put it all together yet. Great videos as always.

[@LarryGreen-d7w]

Hello. I have connected everything correctly and triple checked. When it runs the sequence, the relay board does nothing. Now there was a few things that were NOT the same as when this original video was done. When uploading the firmware, I did not have a choice. There was only one. Another thing, when I click on run sequence, I get "waiting delay secs: 30" with a bunch of dots, then the message "Sequence complete". Any thoughts?

[@edsonglutes8947]

ok i have a question that i cannot get a answer from. Ive built this per the way you've done it, and IT WORKS WOO HOO! but it doesn't go back to the ambient sound just sits there quiet.. any ideas?

[@Swiftflowplumbing]

I still can’t figure out how to select a port any information on it?

[@LarryGreen-d7w]

also, not sure if its important, when it is running the sequence, the "L" light on the UNO is flashing

[@SubpowerProductions]

Do you have the uno pin-out diagram?

[@proppinit]

Thanks for sharing this, might have to look into this. Those picoboo controllers get pretty expensive.

[@psu4127]

How much soldering is realistically needed for this? I've never done it before, but I'm willing to try it for this project. Just wondering if its like a beginner amount.

[@Neil82591]

Hey we built these for the MNT. Wondering if there is some way to get rid of the delay on the PIR. Definitely need something to use the button board if you want to hook up without soldering I heard mention of some version board that was cheap. Great job Mikay!! Thanks Jason.

[@kennethdavis8892]

My question is will that PIR work with a Fright Props controllers? And if so, how do you wite it?

[@Eman425]

Me and my brother run all of our props on this set up . You can do a lot with them

[@majormagics7163]

Anyone know about the RA gray control system or the manchester FM code for animatronics programming?

[@jaymanphoto1]

I was wondering what web site you used to buy the parts for the controller? I cant find them that cheap, lol. Thanks.

[@dribeker]

I did this exact setup and works great" however I want to set this prop off via remote control, how would I set that up?

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

dribeker grab one of these and hook the trigger of the prop controller to one of the channels on the remote. They work great! www.ebay.com/itm/302072255280

[@dribeker]

Graves Of The Groves thanks for the reply! I meant I want to set of the arduino board via remote. Substituting the pir for the remote. I Have to say I watched your videos and would not have been able to put this prop controller together if it wasn't for your time and effort showing the us self haunters how to do this.

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Yep! That little remote thing will do it, replace the PIR. Assuming you used the UNO? and looking at the wiring diagram real quick, you can run the #11 and ground through one of the Common and Normally Open terminals on one of the remote channels. So when you push the remote button it will trigger the Arduino. I wish I could screen shot it but the wiring diagram shows the trigger input wires about halfway down on the buttonbanger website.

[@griffithhillcemetery4120]

I bought all the items for the controller, I bought a 12v adapter but what else do I need to make the controller from 5v to 12v. a female pig tail of some sort ?I want to hook an actuator to the controller triggered by the pir sensor.

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Not quite sure what you mean. Are you talking about your actuator being 12v and that's why you are wanting to convert it?

[@griffithhillcemetery4120]

+Graves Of The Groves yes. where do I plug in the 12v adapter into the controller?

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

+Griffith Hill Cemetery the arduino has a dc input just to power the board. What ever prop you are powering will have a separate power supply. If you are using a 12v actuator then you need a 12v power supply and you would run the positive to the common of one of the relays and the NO or NC to your actuator. The ground would go straight to the actuator.

[@griffithhillcemetery4120]

+Graves Of The Groves I have a picture that I want to show you. could I email it to you ?

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

+Griffith Hill Cemetery sure man. [e-mail]. I may be slow to respond because I'm at the beach but I will get back to you

[@serviam9026]

Can you run all this set file setup through a Mac?

[@dougriberch9869]

Ok I have a 12v relay for a arduino board 5v. The relays will not fire because I'm assuming the voltage is too low. Can I run a 5v relay for a 12v wiper motor?

[@lespaul36]

Yes. Otherwise if the relay has octo ability it most likely can take the 12v and use an internal regulator to lower it to 5v.

[@texday31]

Do you know if there's a 3D printable box to stack all this in. I want to make my controller clean.

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

I dont know of anyone who has taken the time to fab one.

[@griffithhillcemetery4120]

hey man, quick question. my arduino uno i have has one 5v power slot and i need two for my mp3 player... how do you think i can accomplish this? do you think if i split the 5v plugged in and run two wires will work?

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Griffith Hill Cemetery hey! If you have an UNO you should have (4) 5V pins? Take a look at Mikes wiring diagram here and let me know if you have something different. buttonbanger.com/?page_id=37

[@griffithhillcemetery4120]

Graves Of The Groves i picked up this one from amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B008GRTSV6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_bQcdybP0VS1GF i have power to my mp3 by splicing cable together from the 5v power on arduino to the mp3 and relay. but cant get my mp3 to play anything on my speakers... i followed mikes instructions 50 times lol. maybe the 5v power has something to do with it. mp3 has power to it. i see the green light but doesnt blink like it should

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Griffith Hill Cemetery I'm not familiar with that one but I don't see why tapping into that 5V wouldn't work. I would hit up Mike and see what he thinks as he's the guru at these things.

[@lespaul36]

I know this is old, but incase someone reads this years later like me. If you split of the 5v, do it at the arduino side in case the prop circuit drops the forward voltage/current. Typically your biggest issue is making sure you have enough milliamps to supply the current needed.

[@steveserna7526]

where can i get the wiring diagram from?

[@bbotonthejob]

I am currently making the fourbanger, I havent installed all the components yet is it ok to go ahead and install the firmware before everything is installed, I want to test my MP3 player while I wait for parts to come any help would be great

[@lespaul36]

Typically you want to install the firmware without anything connected. If you goof it can fry your board.

[@MiNeYoursChannel]

Hey, do you still have the build instructions? For my use the ability to programme this via the push buttons is one of the most important features as I won't have a PC with me. All the info I can find is just on programming from the PC, can you help at all, in getting hold of the old documentation when the button functionality was still there?

[@MiNeYoursChannel]

Sorry hit enter too soon, obviously I would be incredibly grateful for this so thank in advance if you can help. Sam

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

I'd say your best bet would be to contact Mike North (mikkojay) on Haunt Forum. He certainly could help you out.

[@MiNeYoursChannel]

Graves Of The Groves for some reason it just keeps telling my that I entered an invalid birthday but doesn't give me anywhere to enter a birth day when registering for the forum. So I unfortunately can't message him on there. Thanks for the advice though I will keep trying. I managed to find him on KZbin as he had commented on your video so I commented on one of his videos. Fingers crossed he sees it.

[@lespaul36]

Typically the board comes with a USB cable and you can use the free Arduino software to program it. If you get in to microcontrollers there are much better free programs. You may have to search for a tutorial to burn a pure hex file though. ATMel has their own software, but it is designed for programming just the chip, so IDK if that would work.

[@KIRKILLER38]

hey can you run any voltage through a relay channel?

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Yes, the max contact is AC110V ~ AC250V 10A and DC30V 10A

[@KIRKILLER38]

+Graves Of The Groves thanks dude

[@DTGrant12]

Did you end up using this prop controller as your main controller? I have bought the Picaboo controllers in the past but they get very expensive. Looking for a solution because I am excited to launch my first haunt this year. And of course your elevator has blown my mind and I am convinced I can build one (ya right).

[@danielpaglia9155]

like others I could not get the relays to click. What I done is delete all files and re download all the zip files which contains everything and the libraries used for the code, once you re- upload a fresh file redo all the steps and follow this video it will work because it happened to me.

[@matlightfxproductions]

This is awesome for beginners

[@GhoulishCop]

Please do a follow up when you hook it up to an actual prop. The build is important but then tying into what you want to use it to is equally so. I'm looking forward to part 2! Also, do you put this stuff into a project box or something? Seems kinda unwieldy all these wires and things sticking out all over. So....will that be part 3, putting it into a box and making it look neat? And don't forget the banger buttons you put to the side. I guess that will be if you want to create your own routine, so I wanna see that too. I'm like a needy girlfriend, right? Gimme, gimme gimme!

[@GhoulishCop]

+Graves Of The Groves They're my best feature

[@asmarteru]

+Graves Of The Groves I actually had better luck using a small plastic fishing lure box that was posted in that thread. If you search for my post on the forum in that thread (under IMU) ... post #305, it shows what my controller box looks like with everything in it. The box has a small rubber gasket to keep water out so you only need a little silicone caulk to plug up and wiring holes you made into the box. I found the plastic lure box in Wal-mart for just a few bucks. I found it easier to use than that project box Mike linked but I'm sure it was just me.

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

+The Pirates of North Court Nice! I scrolled through all 37 pages of the link but I was looking for info on the UNO. I'll go back and check it out. Thanks!

[@GregPackard]

I built a few of these this past season... They worked well... I say abandon the button board and use the software to program it... The $20 price tag is a bit of a misnomer as a power supply and some kind of case is needed... I'm used dollar store tool boxes...

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

+Greg Packard Good idea. Thanks Greg!

[@mnorth1]

+Greg Packard You are right, I updated the parts list document with current prices and the sum total of parts cost (sans enclosure) was $19.09.

[@ThePreachie]

Bro you had me dying @ 23:00

[@jean-lucb5338]

Hi, I build the same controller, but I have a problem to upload arduino on my UNO card, the existing file is different from your video, I just have the file FourBanger.hex and it produces a failed upload. ..I'm stuck, can you share the file "FourBanger-Standalone-1.2.hex" ? Thank you !

[@jean-lucb5338]

Hi the problem isn't the file FourBanger , but the driver UNO :( I upload the new driver arduino and this ok !

[@MrDangersAhead]

I just went and bought 2 of everything as well as male to female wiring. just need to get my hands on that diagram for uno instead of the nano

[@mnorth1]

sounds good, I will try to whip up an uno diagram tonight and maybe another quick video tonight.

[@MrDangersAhead]

+Mike North couple more questions once its all set do you need to keep the sd card in for audio or can u remove it. and that pir can it be disconnected once she's up and running or just put tape over it as I will be using a different trigger method. thx in advance

[@mnorth1]

+Matthew “DangersAhead” B Yes you need to keep the SD card in the audio module. I bought some used 256mb ones in bulk on Ebay and they ended up costing like 75 cents each. This brings the cost of the controller down even further. If you decide you don't want to run the PIR and just want to trigger with a button, you can either disconnect it or cover it up. You would need to cycle power after disconnecting, otherwise the controller might think that the prop is being continually triggered.

[@dougriberch9869]

I built a great trash can trauma prop with this tutorial. Thank you. I want to build a new project using a wiper motor and arduino controller. Do I need a 5v or a 12v relay to power the motor? I am using a 12v 5amp power source to power the wiper motor in high rpm. Thanks again.

[@GravesOfTheGroves]

Hey Doug, that's great! I'd say if your motor is 12v and your power supply is 12v then I would definitely use a 12v relay.

[@dougriberch9869]

Graves Of The Groves thank you. Everything else is the same in building the prop controller but just using a 12v relay instead of a 5v? Thanks for the fast reply!!

[@lespaul36]

the 5v/12v is the trigger voltage for the relay. If you power the relay off the Arduino use a 5v otherwise use the octo pins and make sure the module can handle the 12v. 12v relays are used mostly for automotive in my experience. The module itself handles the other voltage and connections.

[@deoblo85]

very cool I'll have to try that !@!! HFL!!