21 Classic Muscle Car Upgrades You’ll REGRET - Part 1

[@28704joe]

Well that killed 90 percent of the advertisements in Hot Rod / Muscle car magazines....

[@Formulabruce]

cheers for STOCK cooling, With a Fan shroud.....!

[@OxBlitzkriegxO]

Not really. You just have to be intelligent enough to know if it's what fits your intended goal, a problem that plagues 50% of the planet.

[@SheayWoodard]

Yeah, now they're going to think more about smaller engines and turbochargers. It has always been more of a different philosophy rather than a lack of awareness.

[@28704joe]

@@OxBlitzkriegxO There's a sucker born every minute.....No magazine is going out of business anytime soon.

[@zanderstone2898]

😂😂😂

[@lizzard71]

As someone who once had a 68 Camaro with 5 of these things (rear disc, turn down exhaust, flex fan, locked rear, 4:56 gear) I can tell you this is all very good advice.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I think I used to have that same car!! I'm speaking from experience here :)

[@RandomPasserby-l5x]

100% agree. If you need better brakes on road car just get front discs. I am not sure on GM but on Mopars you can use kits using factory front disks from late 70s and for Mustangs there is reproduction Kelsey Hayes brake kit used on GT350. Both work well in my experience and also fit under 15" wheels.

[@davidkeeton6716]

My 68 396 Camaro 12:1 L88 cam, 40lb flywheel, M20, 12 bolt with Summers Brothers spool and axles and 5.13 Eaton pro gears, equaled the quickest street car in town, never got beat.

[@brgable]

@@davidkeeton6716you’ve seen a Sasquatch too I’m sure……

[@williamminter7057]

I expected a crap video because I wasn’t familiar with the channel. The reality is that this is super solid info that I totally support.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

We're just getting our channel going in a meaningful way, even though we've technically had it for years. Been too busy running a resto shop. Appreciate the support. More content to come!

[@richardpalleschi4807]

@@gearheadgarageinc I agree straight to the point. No need for a spool or locked rear end on the street. Fast way to crash if you get rain. Also get too much attention from police with the tire noise turning corners.

[@CJColvin]

Big rims on classic cars will always make you puke 🤢🤮

[@buzzcrushtrendkill]

This ⏫️

[@patrickmcgoldrick8234]

@@CJColvinWhy do people always put aftermarket rims,on classic cars,when factory ones look so much better in my eyes.Put the money in new springs,sway bars,bushings and ball joints along with new control arms if you should so choose,and don't forget the shocks,or struts.

[@CJColvin]

@@patrickmcgoldrick8234 Totally agree 100%

[@SuperDirtyred1]

I thought People like to Puke On The Donk's as they walk by.

[@juvee4079]

Not me

[@buddymorrissey]

This is what all YT videos should be- no b.s., and based on experience and knowledge. One of the best videos I’ve seen in years. This could have been titled “21 Mistakes A 16yo In 1980 Dreamed Of Adding To His Car.” Save the money, just put Thrush, Hooker and Hurst stickers on the windows and a CalCustom air cleaner.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for the response! I forgot to add the decals to the list!!!!

[@davidkeeton6716]

The old joke us parts/speed equipment guys always told was based around Holley floormats and some chrome exhaust tips make it so much quicker.

[@trock575]

I like the way you got straight to the point 👍🏾❤️

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you!

[@vanishingpoint5248]

Your advice about buying the right car is golden, so many people buy with their hearts, instead of their brains, then end up chasing their tail trying to fix all the ‘enhancements’ they spent big bucks on. Spend a year or so going to car shows, talking to vintage car owners, and researching on line, if you’re very lucky you may find some folks who will share the ups and downs of vintage car ownership. My efforts led me to a 68 -L79 Vette and I’ve been thrilled ever since, plenty of go for this old man, haven’t had to add any ‘hop up’ parts etc because it came with everything I needed….

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Buy the most car you can "afford". But be smart about it!

[@johnr7794]

The bigger wheels totally ruin the look of the vehicle and as you said the ride also. The only thing worse is the huge front tire on HD motorcycles. Thank You for a great video.

[@holdenc3082]

Agree. Those huge newer style wheels look awful on an older car like that Chevelle…..or pretty much any other car for that matter.

[@msk3905]

I thought that i was the only one who felt thus way, i would add slamming the car too. Slammed cars looked ridiculous IMO

[@kujonyanthawa594]

in your opinion. and thats it.

[@challengerbrant]

Wagon wheels!

[@randylear8264]

Good advice. I am 65 years old and have been a muscle car guy since 15 years old. My first car was a 72 bright orange Duster that started my car enthusiast life. I have owned my 70 Challenger since 79 and my 70 GTX since 81. The facts you stated took me many Hot Rod magazines and years to learn. My cars are stock appearing with upgrades that enhance performance but with out suffering the maladies you have described. Mini starters, high energy ignitions, quality tires, better brake pads and shoes. I look forward to driving my 70s cars and know that the ride will be 70s quality. That is the experience of owning these classics. Improvement but still the 70s feel. Thanks for the video.

[@kramrollin69]

Except for the gears and the exhaust, he pretty much reflects what we have been saying since the late 90s...when all this modern stuff appeared. Nothing like the sound of a muscle car with dumps, converter and short gears. Its all nostalgia...remember the crappy times in the 70s when lots of people went stink bug stance and sidepipes. Yuk!.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for watching & commenting!

[@michaelm2502]

You nailed it on all of these points! How many times do you see a beater with rims and a stereo worth way more than the entire vehicle that needs a ton of work to be safe or just run properly. Great vid.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

It's so true!

[@trauma6843]

My father had a classic car restoration business/Speed Shop and every point is spot on. Customers often think if a little is good, then more is better. In reality they often end up with a car that performs worse and are not happy with the end result.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Well said. There's usually a recipe that works, otherwise you end up with a bit of a Frankenstein,

[@ericheine2414]

That was really an excellent explanation of what not to do to your car. What people think is cool is not always a wise application. I concur

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I'm all for getting a car up to date with some modern upgrades and improvements. Yet, I often wonder what people were thinking when they did certain changes.....and, understandably, most people aren't necessarily in the know.

[@atheistconservative6211]

One thing that he forgot to mention about oversized wheels is THEY'RE UGLY AS FK

[@one7decimal2eight]

As someone that had drums in the rear, upgrading the fronts and rears to disc was one of the best decisions I made.

[@independentears]

Hes not that smart if he thinks drums will stop an old heavy car better than disk

[@one7decimal2eight]

@@independentears He's not wrong in a way. If you leave the stock front and just upgrade the rears to disc, it won't be a huge increase...but it will limit or minimize brake fade if you have to jam on the brakes multiple times within a short amount of time. If you upgrade the fronts to a good 2 pot caliper or more with the appropriate master cylinder and brake booster, it is absolutely a worth while upgrade. These old cars brake and handle like an elephant on roller skates. Good front an rear brakes are highly under rated when it comes to modifications.

[@LuckyCharms777]

You misheard him.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I'm a disc brake fan, on all corners! I just see so many people do a poor install. Throughout the comments, I share that I usually run Wilwoods - they're phenomenal. Large drum brakes ACTUALLY have more stopping power.....but I can't remember the last time i personally installed larger drums instead of discs. But many do, with great satisfaction. Thanks for the comments y'all

[@gearheadgarageinc]

That's true. Quality counts! Check out the comment below, as I don't hate flex fans, but I've lost some skin doing maintenance repairs over the years.....and many horror stories in the comments!

[@MrDejast]

Every rear disc conversion I’ve performed has the e-brake cable kit installed. No problem.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Lucky you! I don't have the best luck with anything that has a ratcheting caliper e-brake....they feel firm, bunt don't seem to hold all that well. Wilwoods have been my favorite thus far

[@holdover8199]

Wilwood dyna on the rear of my falcon. I was surprised the E-brake shoes were like real drum shoes whereas a lot of modern rear-disk e brakes are a more simplified mono-shoe without all the extra springs and such. Whatever, it works and I think the shoes are bigger than the stock falcon 9” rear shoes also.

[@TheABLAZN]

I'm hoping part 2 includes putting in too much of a cam. A lot of people want that lope, but now have a car that does not have any low end, and no vacuum for their brakes.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Good suggestion! And you'll have to stay tuned!

[@mistered9435]

There are exceptions to that. I have a 355 LT4 in a ‘97 Camaro SS that has a COMP XFI 292 cam. I built everything to match and play well together, and it is very streetable, has power everywhere, and has a radical idle. I did have to add a vacuum pump for brakes, but I have no regrets at all.

[@frosthoe]

My dad taught me that upgrading the suspension and brakes FIRST. Makes for a much faster driver. There is no point on more power if you cant steer, turn predictably and handle wallowing stutter bumps when braking. So with just suspension and brakes I can now pass you in any turn, out brake you everywhere and out handle you in the rough. And I still have just a basic lower block crank, rods, and drivetrain. No power adders yet, just smoothed out power delivery a bit. Annnnd I won again...C'YA!

[@timothykeith1367]

I recommend avoiding sought after "muscle cars" and get something common, maybe a pickup truck.

[@birdsandbeesmotorparts]

I thought that at first when I was in the market a few years ago. The problem I had was that I wasn't getting excited enough to buy something "common". There's a reason the old muscle cars are sought after, and resale is much better as well. I ended up getting a 71 RR. I get what you're saying though, it is expensive. It's a great time though and definitely worth it. 🎉

[@Raptor3388]

Also, chrome or shiny parts on the engine. They're usually chinesium that looks bad in a few months, they're not well made, valve covers will leak, oil pans will leak, stuff wont align. Take a few hours to make you stock parts look good, it's cheap and looks good, or pay for proper quality parts that will be an actual upgrade beyond just looks.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I always chuckle when I look under a car to see why the oil pan is leaking, and see there's a chrome pan under there!!! Ooh, so shiny.......cuz its covered in oil!! People need to learn to prep those surfaces, and to use good washers in an attempt to get a positive seal!!

[@christophersanders5007]

As an old fart that has built several hot rods since the late 70's I have learned my lesson the hard way that every one of your recommendations is correct. The other thing I do not like on classic muscle cars is 100" diameter homo rims with rubber band tires that have a they/them pronoun.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Seems like the best remembered lessons are learned the hard way - been there, done that..... More than I'd like to admit!

[@ginaanddenes9059]

Homo rims and they/them (zim/zer, anyone...?) rubber band tyres - LOVE the expression! Can I use it elsewhere, please? Agreed on your assessment - they look retarded, and ruin the car.

[@joe-hp4nk]

All good common sense upgrades. I always liked my rear drum brakes with the emergency system that never fails. Back in the day we used to swap them out for 12" truck drum brakes.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Excellent upgrade! Larger drums have increased stopping power. Most people don't realize that drums actually have more stopping power. Rear disc brakes look cool, and they do cool down faster. Done right, they're a great upgrade, but rear drums get the job done. I love discs up front so my car stops STRAIGHT!

[@jamespell8091]

All worthy suggestions. I'm watching pt2

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Great, thank you!

[@jonathanvaughn2094]

In other words, the factory engineers did a great job of designing a car that handled, stopped, performed and gave you great driving pleasure.

[@guysteel]

agreed

[@kramrollin69]

For the era. They did the best they could.

[@randallsavage3795]

couldnt be any more wrong. People who say that are too cheap to do the upgrades.

[@carnut1921]

Yes exactly what you said except engineers build it to the standers of the time.

[@msk3905]

You think classic cars stop and handle great? Have you ever driven one?

[@THEcyclonewill]

This list started out describing my 69 Mustang. When I swapped out the drums on the front the improvement was huge, so naturally I thought rear discs would make a similar difference - almost no noticeable difference.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I'm still a rear disc fan - but they don't ever seem to make a night & day difference like the fronts!

[@ynotlast9210]

Great advice. Thank you. I was planning on a turn down exhaust just to save money. I’m gonna run them to the rear now for sure

[@gearheadgarageinc]

YOu won't regret it. Plus, it's cheaper done right the FIRST time!

[@ZEEKUPP]

Finally, someone else who looks at the downside of air suspension. Also, about 70% of the braking power is on the front brakes, so I see little reason to sink a bunch of money into changing the rear braking system.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Right? It's all good when done right.....but, it's not always done right. And - you got my gyst, allocate funds where they make most sense!

[@savage6394]

If only I could find a checklist or buyers guide or something to help me when buying on old car, like an Old Classic Car Purchase Inspection Checklist and Buying Guide somewhere. Holy Smokes my Man, WE GET IT! You have a checklist.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I see so many people buy cars without knowing what they're getting into....... Just hoping to share a little advice, help people enjoy the process better

[@matthewhirons7756]

Great info. I changed the rear gear in my 66 Mustang from 3:1 to 3.23 to one. Perfect amount of snap with 200 hp (gets a little scratch in 2nd easily), and does well on the freeway.

[@johnnyhotrod]

Good tips. I have a 67 Camaro was always taught to get some extra weight over the axle to keep traction to the tires. I don’t go crazy but I do have my battery and some audio equipment back there.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Right on

[@josephkay7785]

Wow, this was an impressive video with excellent expert advice. You identified the errors, explained them succinctly and offered excellent alternatives. Really well done.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks!

[@8avexp]

I'm keeping my '69 AMX as is. Much of it is still original save for upgraded pistons in its 390 (it feels as though it may have a mild cam), an Offenhouser intake manifold, Edelbrock 1405 carb and Flowmaster mufflers. A previous owner put in a fancy car stereo with rear speakers (and used the oil light feed to power it - not too smart), but by the time I got it, they'd put back the factory AM radio and left the rear speakers in. I tapped off the Radio post on the fuse panel to power the radio and reconnected the oil light (and scored an original Rally-pac gauge set on ebay).

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Sounds like you’ve done a great job bringing it back to its roots

[@johnnagle5797]

Nice informative video, thanks for taking the time to do it.

[@berardoferrari]

i have a foxbody with with high flow heads, cam and supercharger. i just put a over sized fuel pump and 42 lbs injectors and it runs fine, but its not tuned yet. should i be worried about leaning out the engine?

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Absolutely YES. Although it sounds like the fuel system is adequate, you'll need to have the fuel mapping done. The last thing you wanna do is lean out an engine under boost - that can be catastrophic. If it runs ok, drive it easily, and make sure all systems are working fine. Once confident, I'd definitely advise you sync up with a good tuner that can plug & play with their laptop to dial in fuel trims, timing, detonation, etc. Sounds FAST, and fun! Good luck!

[@joeylopezphd]

This randomly popped up on my feed. Great recommendations. I am not an old school hot rodder, but I study automotive culture and everything you mentioned are things I notice. Oldest cart I built was a 96 grand marquis with everything built before adding a turbo and then adding built motor. I did suspension first, then brakes, then transmission and drive train, moderate sound system. Then did wheels and tires and proper hub centric H&R spacers. Anyway, I have seen so many builds and you put so much into context that I wondered about, like the carburetors and the air ride. Well done! Only advice is to buy a wireless mic, they sell them on amazon for 30 or get a semi pro one like a rode wireless 2go and you will sound a full pro KZbinr

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Sounds like built yours in the proper order! ....and, yeah - I had purchased a wireless mic and it sounded even worse!! Definitely could use some better sound quality, as my shop is noisy!

[@TheRetarp]

When upgrading wheels my rule of thumb is keep the overall tire diameter and center line the same. Do those two things and the alignment shop will be able to align it properly avoiding any handling problems. How wide you can go is a factor or how much clearance you have.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Well said. I try to keep what looks cool in line with what drives well....there's some reasonable "center-line" there too!!

[@mayhem49]

Thank you for this video I completely agree with everything you’ve shared. I have been running my commercial business for 30 years in march. Educating people about their choices without insulting them upon their choices is where we become head shrinks at times to guide customers to success outside pre written contracts and invoices.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Congrats on your many years in business! It's hard to teach people and share info WITHOUT offending anyone.....

[@wrotenwasp]

Totally agree on the rear disk brakes. WHY? I have an old 86 Olds 442, 68 350 Olds, runs 12.60s with slicks and the rear drums have stopped it just fine for the past 30 years. Brake shoes last forever and yeah, the parking brake is nice. MSD box? Never understood the point of one of those on a 12-13 sec street/ strip car. Carb? For low end torque, I'm happy with a 650 DP and a stock AC delco mechanical fuel pump. Stereo? The stock Delco ...with cassette...and some aftermarket 6x9 speakers, sounds just fine. Very practical , no nonsense video.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Sounds like a fun car!! Thanks for your input

[@Yann396]

Because on a GM a rear disc brake conversion is a “free” c-clip axle eliminator👍🏻

[@Nelsons-Garage]

I couldn't agree more with your breakdown, I have seen all these issues through the years... nice job!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for understanding what I'm getting at!

[@oldman-zr2ru]

All solid advice based upon my 40 years working on my own cars. I bought a 70 442 in 1987 from a guy who had put high jacker air shocks on the rear end. He had so much pressure in them to accommodate the huge rear tires and wheels that he broke the frame by the gas tank and sent it through the trunk floor inches from the tank. Bad idea.

[@The0utmode]

Thank you so much for covering how bad over-sized tires are, people don't realize you are raising your center of gravity putting more stress on your suspension and your making your rear end gear ratio worse. I have a c10 with 15x7 rally wheels and I put one size smaller than stock tires on my truck. Because it lowers my truck half an inch and makes me rear gear ratio better, and makes my brakes work better!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Well said. Done right, big wheels & tires, with upgraded brakes can really get the job done. But some of the smoothest riding cars have stock 15's and mild suspension upgrades.

[@The0utmode]

@@gearheadgarageinc Agreed and the truth is for a daily driver you want some side wall so it will flex when you hit pot holes in the road.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

@@The0utmode If you're gonna run bigger wheels and low profile tires, hopefully the suspension is upgraded to accommodate! You CAN have good ride quality with the proper springs & swaybars......some sidewall is a good thing, but too much doesn't help either!!

[@scottboettcher]

Good stuff man. Keep the lean vids coming. Helping the others out here is a good deed. Happy Holidays.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you and happy holidays to you as well!

[@davidbartch8917]

From another shop owner I 100% agree!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Much obliged! It's always good to hear from other shop owners

[@kennymcquinkiss8292]

Great video I was thinking about making one of those videos because I've made every one of those mistakes LOL. Well not really everyone but it was a great video and I liked and subscribed

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for subscribing!

[@mattwhaley9917]

Great info any gearhead or potential gearhead needs to know. Some of us grew up being taught these things, but I have a lot of friends that are just now getting into cars in their late forties and have never been taught the basics.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks. That's exactly what I'm trying to do - share some seemingly obvious but LEGIT info with those that may not be in the know!

[@Coda6766]

Great advice, especially with the flex fans. I was at a car meet a guy revved his engine, loud bang and the car stalled. He looked around didn't notice anything wrong. He asked me for a jump, I went to hook up the cables and one of the cables was cut completely. A blade from the fan flew off and cut the cable.

[@chrismorrison9140]

Once after washing my car we were checking the timings curve, and at 3000 rpm the air flow / vibration pulled a towel off the bumper and into the fan. It exploded, luckily nobody got hurt.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Holy smack!!!!!!

[@williammurphy7410]

Wow,glad I came across your video. You are direct and address the particular items in a common sense manner. I kiddingly refer to my shop as shoestring garage because that's how I build them, don't need all those high dollar BS improvements . Just a little above "stock" is my old school appeal.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I love the "shoestring" Garage comment! So true

[@OEMPlus]

solid advice. i agree 100%. i even made the msd box mistake on my first restomod. simplicity and reliability should always be at the top of the list. only do things that have a PURPOSE to your build.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Nailed it - well said!

[@brewsterred5861]

Thanks Jason. You answered a question for me before I even asked. Outstanding info for all of us.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Glad to help!

[@bobturner6516]

good advice on all points, should have done some drivability upgrades on my 72 challenger when I was putting it back together, it sits in garage most of the time because it's such a bear to drive

[@gearheadgarageinc]

That's a bummer, as they can be so AMAZING to drive! I've had a number people comment thinking i'm against upgrades......I'm all for upgrades, done sensibly. Especially if they make the car safer, more reliable and more enjoyable. Sounds like a cool car!

[@joewirkus]

I love this video! Right on dude! And as far as rear diffs: ditch the old limited slip AND the locker. Do yoursellf a favor and replace whatever you have with an Eaton Tru Trac. Its a gear type torque sensing limited slip, requires no friction oil additive. You can get a a drop in version on many different ford/gm etc. cars. It’s wonderful!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for the good word! I definitely agree with you on the Eaton

[@autumnjeserich2689]

my experience has taught me to avoid the "kits" when doing modifications to a car classic or new. If you want to add something use a stock part from another vehicle and retrofit it. Is more work, requires some fabrication. But the result is just so much better. Since your doing it yourself to your car it will fit your car. Your in control of the quality. Your skills will increase dramatically. Will give you a truly unique ride. You'll save yourself some money.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Good info!

[@davidsalvo9021]

I have an 850 double pumper with no choke,,,,Always ran great,,,changing the carb to a 750 WITH a choke

[@gearheadgarageinc]

If I've got a healthy engine, a high-stall or a manual trans, I'm not scared of a big carb. Mut MOST cars respond well to a slightly conservative carb selection. Seems like all the carb CFM calculators you find online always push you to a smaller carb anymore.

[@jrh2009]

I've never seen your channel before, but this is great info. I agree 100%.

[@zazbeam]

Love the channel...new subscriber. Where ya'll from? Heard you say "hella"...serious Bay Area lingonright there. Great vids. Thanks!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Glad you like it and thanks for the sub. We're in Sacramento - originally from San Francisco - so you are correct!

[@zazbeam]

@gearheadgarageinc Awesome man, from Oakland, so I caught the language immediately 😃🤙 Thanks for the great videos.

[@ronposey52]

I agree with everything he said about classic muscle. I had a 69 camaro. I did some of those things . Now I know my car could have been a better car without some of the upgrades. I was 16 and learning about muscle cars at the time.

[@mrfixit8776]

The reason why I like to keep my 200 C4 66 stang stock. I did get some mods just in case I ever wanted to install them such as front disk brakes, double M/C with optional booster, 1 inch sway bar, head rests.

[@flinch622]

Well done. And as I think about it, most of us are not on the track or driving power touring style: we just like to whack the throttle once in a while with confidence... and enjoy the heart warmimg rumble of a v8. To that end, drum brakes are just fine. For daily drivers, I think they make more sense: reduces unsprung weight [think pothole management], withstands sitting around better [think grandmas car], and for snow country the design itself helps shield from the elements & road salt. They might need more frequent inspections - I can not only live with that, I wish cars went back to all drums. New isn't always an upgrade.

[@mikegrizwold2522]

All good points! I wanted to add that an adjustable porportioning valve is usually necessary for those rear disc brake conversions as well.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Good point!!!

[@Fmandan77]

These are all very solid bits of advice. Well done.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks!

[@johnsarcaneautos]

All true. Glad to see some of my pet peeves called out! (especially 3/4 exhaust)

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for watching!

[@gnosticnight]

All super-solid advice. The makings of a great channel here.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Appreciate the kind words, glad you liked the video!

[@davidgalietti3398]

I was really expecting a bullshit video.. but you 100% nailed it. There is a right way to do a lot of these things.. but most people dont do it..

[@Wbfuhn]

Something I learned from ChrisFix is the adding of a 2nd set of brake calipers. Normally this is done to cause drifting, but the solution in replacing rear drum brakes where the parking brakes are you would replace with a 2nd brake caliper to act as the parking brakes.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

You're right, there are a number of secondary caliper kits designed to provide an e-brake!

[@stewartdenne2971]

Would you recommend a 4 barrel or 2 barrel carb on a 289 Mustang? Thx.

[@MrZdvy]

Some good points here. About cooling...a clutch driven fan does not turn at more rpm than a flex fan. A fan clutch will slip in most driving situations to minimize drag. A fan clutch will lock in warm weather and/or in traffic so the fan turns at waterpump speed. However a flexfan will always turn at waterpump speed because there is a solid connection (no clutch) with the waterpump pulley. A flexfan usually gives better cooling, but you may not like the wind noise, and they are not fuel efficient either. But both a flexfan and a clutch driven fan should be surrounded by a shroud for better cooling and safety.

[@WVXL64]

A fan clutchbworks off heat. When it get hot from engine heat it locks up, no matter the rpm. Also a fixed blade clutch fan will cool mich better than a flex fan, especially at higher RPM. A flex fan flattens out as RPM increases and stops pulling air. In fact it turns into a wall behind the radiator BLOCKING airflow. Also a flex fan is more than likely to Crack and fly apart at higher RPM. And the shroud is a very important part to making sure the radiator cools. It makes the fan pull more air across the core.

[@danielcamacho1913]

With a clutch fan the _engine_ can turn more easily at high RPM, because the clutch disengages. A fan that always turns at water pump speed wastes a lot of energy. When a fan clutch disengages it could be worth 5% more power, or fuel savings.

[@MrZdvy]

@@WVXL64 Correct, a shroud should be used for better cooling. I mentioned safety because he talked about hurting his hand being near the fan with the engine idling. I have seen a factory flex fan loosing a blade, but not on an aftermarket flex fan. But possible I guess. I have experimented with flex fans in the past on a few classic cars. In both cases they ran much cooler, both in city traffic and on the highway. Unless the temp gauges in both cars were lying to me...

[@gearheadgarageinc]

@@MrZdvy Thamks for commenting. Flex fans do move quite a bit of air, surely more than a stock 4-blade seen on many early classics. A good shroud is always such a key complement to any fan. Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@scottolisar456]

Awesome content . Where are you located

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks! Sacramento, CA

[@JohnMiller-ee9pn]

I have been building custom cars for 40 years for me and my friends and you are absolutely right, but those wide blade flex fans do work really well put it in the shroud and keep your hands out of there.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

They do move a lot of air. Just invest in the "Caution - FAN" sticker, lol!!

[@et76039]

Wasn't aware of the lack of an e-brake on rear disc brakes; thanks. 😁 MSD worked great in my mildly modified 302 in a '71 Ranchero, which was admittedly slightly overcarbureted.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Many kits have an e-brake, few have a good e-brake. Thanks for chiming in!

[@marblox9300]

I like to keep any car as original as possible. If it's a classic I love the original AM radio in the dash. I just run 2 loose wires from the fuse block to my aftermarket amp to my loose boxed 6X9s and it sounds great - no permanent mods to the car that will cause you to lose any value.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

That works! Thanks for watching

[@nebraskamalt6949]

When I was 16 I had a 67chevelle (plain Jane) put a power pack top end on it and that was good. Changed the slushomat to a rockcrusher - higher et.

[@patrickmcgoldrick8234]

Thank you,good common sense,and keep the value of your car,I am glad I caught your video,these are things I have preached against for years.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Right?! Glad it resonated with you.

[@CutlassVibes]

Great information! Keep up the good work! Watching from Texas.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you! And we love TX!

[@FirstLast-lf1dq]

You make so much sense! Please send me your checklist. Thanks

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Sure! go to www.ClassicCarSecrets.com for the checklist

[@mopartony7953]

All excellent advice. Especially the rear disc brakes.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for watching!

[@ByTheCreekCustoms]

I just got my airride on my dually done. So excited. This took the wind out of my sail. Lol. It's gotta be a better ride than the dumptruck springs it had. I'll mess with it for that reason.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Naw - if its done right, you'll love it

[@tatocorvette]

This is a nice video. It really makes sense. I'm a fan of factory stock so any upgrade really needs to be more than justified, especially if it can be seen.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for chiming in. I love hearing what people have to share!

[@nicholashenning7334]

I agree with all you said and showed except for the flex fan I have always had great experiences with them . I have an olds that had a problem over heating when stopped in traffic ,I like channel and solid advice 👍🏻👍🏻

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Flex fans can work well, just seen & heard so many horror stories! Thanks for watching, and for sharing

[@nicholashenning7334]

@gearheadgarageinc I had a couple of friends who had a blade come off and go through their hood when I was a kid, but I inspect everything I purchase and have a particular style that has never failed me, I take it to 7 thousand rpms too.

[@kevmiller6632]

You’re so assume and very helpful. Mine 1979 Dodge Li’l Red Express. Thanks

[@pjmasteraseclassic]

I own and maintain 5 classic cars and agree with all of your suggestions.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Glad to hear it!

[@redbarchetta8782]

A stereo? I ditched mine for the exhaust note. I also ditched the mechanical fan for a SPAL. Saved HP and cools better.

[@devoncoolman88]

Most of this stuff belongs on a racecar. None of these things are bad just application specific. Great video. I agree with all of this. For a full time street car it all makes sense. Only thing i disagree with is rear disc brakes. Nothing wrong with it when the correct system is chosen for the use the car will see. If there are ever any questions about what is right for your car most of these companies are very helpfull if you call them.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks!

[@jaflo6762]

These are some really good tips. Nice vid man.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks!

[@pauljanssen7594]

Very nice video

[@idaho_girl]

Thanks for the list and the reasons why.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Absolutely! Trying to share relevant info that people can use

[@BPattB]

We used to call the cut off exhaust PIG PENS. My boy in high-school had a 69 mustang FB that puked dust all over everyone else

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Ha! Been there, done that. We used to call them Donkey D....*&$%

[@BPattB]

@gearheadgarageinc lol sounds about right

[@DanCooleman51]

I agree with this entirely. However I run a flex fan on my 67 Chevelle because it's the only one that fits on my long water pump setup. No overheating issues so far.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks! Yeah, flex-fans actually work pretty well. Definitely move way more air than a stock 4 blade!!

[@scatpack68]

Agree with the ignition upgrade. Points are very reliable and even a stock electronic unit should be sufficient for street use.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

True indeed. I'm not necessarily against ignition upgrades, I just don't always understand why people seem to prioritize certain things 1st.....?

[@seanstewart302]

You are right! I've started a '67 Camaro cold with it's original points ignition in 8 degrees. Fired right up, no problem driving away.

[@johnmcmullen456]

​@@gearheadgarageincProbably all depends. I had a fresh rebuilt 1974 2.3 Ford 4 cylinder with the last of the points distributors. It started and idled significantly better & smoother after fitting a 1975 OEM electronic distributor, MSD box, and MSD coil. With the MSD it would immediately start even without having the choke connected. That would never have happened with the points ignition, and the lack of frequent points replacement was a big plus. I have also used points conversion kits that fit the original distributors on my 1970 Corvette and Ford 8N tractor upgraded to 12v, with no regrets or issues.

[@ahberlowkz852]

Im building a 68 c10 and i really really wanted to do 16in rotors front and back but the guys at lsmfg told me that was overkill for the weight of the truck. I ended up going with 14in rotors with 6 pistons up front and 4 piston 12 in rotors in back.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Sounds like a trick setup! The 15's and 16's fill the wheel like crazt, super sick look! But, they're pricey and overkill......but, we often pay for that look :)

[@akilama77]

Great video. So true about the rear discs.Parking brakes are critical, don't ever run a street car without it. Make it work with aftermarket rears, or you'll be sorry.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

As a guy that owns multiple old schools with manual transmissions, I wouldn't have it any other way!

[@ChainsawChuck13]

The other side of the "big wheels" one: these days it can be very hard to find performance tires for 14" or 15" wheels. The white-letter nostalgia tires everyone uses are only rated for 112 or, at best, 130 MPH.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Right? Not so many tire sizes available in the old school sizes anymore

[@rustyshakleford3982]

I would agree with the big carb detail. My kid bought a 1952 Chevy panel that has the usual 350/350 combo with upgraded suspension, steering, etc. The carb is an Edlebrock 1406. It was running rich consistently, sometimes coating stuff in the garage with black soot upon start-up. I figured a previous owner thought 'bigger is better' and put on the 600 CFM carb. I found out that the 1406 is ok to use with a stock 350 (pre-emissions) The problem was the stock fuel pump was putting out 8 psi. The 1406 needs only 4 or 5 psi. Put on a regulator and gauge and set it to 4 psi and the black smoke/running rich problem disappeared. And you can't smell the truck coming from a block away!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Glad you got it sorted out. It's so nice when things are dialed in!

[@jonmustang]

Great vid! Lotsa info, quickly. Good advise for making cars enjoyable to drive, which most people will be happier about than simply having impressive-sounding parts.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

That's exactly what I was aiming for, thanks!

[@jonmustang]

@ I don’t know if you’ve covered this in your other videos, but I think an interesting and controversial topic would be regretting having too much power. Like motors that are expensive to build, tend to overpower the handling and braking, and aren’t that much fun to drive. To me, balancing horsepower and handling/braking is best for long-term enjoyment and driving.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

@@jonmustang So true! I jut Dyno'd a '69 Camaro that put 750hp to the rear last week. Such a wicked, supercharged LS 427......but now it can't get close to hooking up at 1/2 throttle. Exhilirating, but useless!!!!

[@Eddie-di6eb6cv8v]

This guy knows what he’s talking about. I restored my 72 Plymouth Duster 340 from the ground up almost exactly like it came from the factory. The only exception I made was I changed the thermoquad to a Carter AVS 625 CFM. The factory knew what they were doing when they designed it.

[@kramrollin69]

Why would put a smaller inferior AVS on, instead of the Thermy? Of course, you probably put an early or aftermarket squarebore manifold on. Find an vintage LD340, run an adapter and grind out the manifold opening.There you go. TQs are Far better carb, than the little AVS.

[@Eddie-di6eb6cv8v]

@ I tried rebuilding the TQ but no luck. I just put on an adapter on the factory spread-bore intake. The AVS does work well. Besides my Dusters racing days are over. I also replaced the 3:91 sure grip unit with a 3:23 sure grip center section. So with the four speed manual transmission it gets good mileage and it still chirps the tires.

[@raystarky3896]

Great video, and lots of Great Advice. One big so called "upgrade" i did was going from a "wide ratio" to a "close ratio" transmission. The problem was with a "close ratio" transmission was when i got stuck in heavy traffic i had to CONSTANTLY press the clutch in>>>out>>>in>>>out. and by the time i drove 8 miles of heavy traffic the 3000lb clutch over exersized my left foot. But with a "wide ratio: transmission i could pop the clutch and leave it in 1st and it would CRAWL forward in heavy traffic + i could do much BETTER burnouts without cooking the clutch. For heavy traffic driving ALWAYS go with a "wide ratio" and if you think of going with a ""muncie aluminum transmission" you could possiblely EXPLODE the transmission case>>>> I know this well seeing 2 M22 transmissions BLOW CHUNKS out the side of the aluminum case, For city driving stick with a Cast Iron 4spd Saginaw Transmission!!!!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Dang - blowing up (2) M-22's is impressive! THey're supposed to be the strongest. I've always had good luck with the T-10. I remember when i got my 1st Saginaw. Had a badass motor and a weak stock Powerglide. Changed the trans and changed my life! Been a fiend for speed ever since :)

[@raystarky3896]

@@gearheadgarageinc Oh Yes! The is correct i forgot about he old reliable T-10's, Had one in the garage for years and never used it. Shame, But i did finally go back to the Saginaw's both 3 and 4spd's and love them forever and still did GREAT burnouts at the Drag's

[@Jeff-mz7cf]

That said, I am in the process of repeating some of these mistakes again - cant help myself

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Right? Old habits die hard!

[@christophgroat4725]

That was very right on!!! I've been building cars since the 80's. The MSD box made me laugh, I've dynoed both ways and seen ZERO gains from one on a 600hp sbc 😆

[@daveelliott2629]

Brilliant car critical thinking thank you so much for sharing this with us and we really appreciate it see you on the next one ..........

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for being receptive! Trying to share some experience.......even if y'all disagree on one point or another.

[@raystarky3896]

Great video. I love it! I believe these drivers that upgrade the headlight system to a VERY BRIGHT NEON lighting should receive A FINE and a FIX IT TICKET, oh its really nice for the that driver, BUTTT blinds the driver coming head on.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

It's great that they can see, but hopefully people pay enough attention to dim their lights. Seems a good 50% of upgraded headlights I see aren't aimed correctly.......that's probably part of the problem???

[@volkstroke]

Great video

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks!

[@cjsciandra2623]

Thank you for this video

[@donjohnston4215]

The weight of the big wheels isn’t what kills performance or breaking power, it’s the bigger diameter that’s taking gear away from you. You’re effectively putting a set of higher gears in your car by bolting on larger diameter, wheels, and tires.