Top 10 MISTAKES Classic Car Owners Make!

[@triumph9252]

Well, that old set of points has never left me stranded. Can’t say that about the electronic ignition.

[@mathewweathers2788]

It's funny because I was just watching someone else's 10 things not to do and like number 5 was "don't ditch your points." :) No disrespect to the video presenter here, that's just how the internet do work.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

So true! To each his own........ I know how to adjust points, change on the side of the road, etc. I just prefer NOT to. I guess whichever way, QUALITY ignition components would be nice!! Thanks for commenting

[@gmonynegro595]

Agreed! Nothing wrong with points.

[@lalveatch5769]

The issue is is that most people don’t wire them correctly that leads to early failures he should’ve covered that in the video since he’s probably well aware of that problem. If you wire them to r resistor it drops voltage 2 around 6 volts. (Ive noticed in the instructions that it really doesn’t say about that you’re running an electronic component at half voltage and it will destroy the electronics. They have to be run @ full 12 V And then you’re supposed to have resistor wires and resistor plugs also. I’ve had this with my friends cars all the time, their electronic ignition burns out, and I inevitably find that they wired it to the ballast resistor, and then when the ballast resistor kicks in it drops voltage to 6 V and destroys them. The car usually starts running like crap before it finishes, burning out the electronics. just offering a heads up. I’ve never had a problem with my electronic ignition for 10 years now 🤞😮😮

[@thomasmulhall4873]

I had an MSD fail and strand me. Went back to points.

[@indianhillsfrnfllngs]

1967 Ford Custom 500. Sat for over 25 years with no tinkering. A battery pack, starter fluid down down the carb, crossed the solenoid, starter turned 2X. Engine started. Original points, plugs, wires, etc. Worked on the brakes and went back to driving it.

[@scatpack68]

I enjoy your videos, but sorry to disagree with your opinion of points ignition. I have owned my 68 Charger for almost 40 years and have never had an ignition failure as a result of running points. That is 100% reliability. Anyone that owns a classic car is usually checking to make sure things like ignition and fuel systems are functioning properly anyway, and it only takes a few minutes to check/adjust dwell/timing and you're good for thousands of miles.

[@carllmack2287]

This jackass misses so many points that are important

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Great to hear how reliable points have been for you! They're such a simple, reliable design. Problem is, so many people have no idea how to replace or adjust them. I'm amazed how few people lack basic skills. AND- when's the last time you tried to buy a basic dwell meter? I remember having a small black Engine Analyzer when i was younger....it was like the size of a lunch box, shoed dwell, rmp and a few other things. I used to swear by it!!

[@scatpack68]

@gearheadgarageinc good points. What's nice is even the modern digital timing lights like innova and zurich include dwell readings.

[@ws678ta]

@@gearheadgarageinc Rock on, each to his own. If you tested spark@ the plug while cranking with points ignition vs electronic, you will see that 'white/blue' desirable spark with electronic. Did I mention the performance increase? Only problem is going through more rear tires on my '69 440 Roadrunner.

[@w957007]

Agree, Millions of Americans went to work every morning with Points and Carburetors Pre Electronic Ignition and EFI.

[@jamesblair9614]

Before people dive into buying a bunch of aftermarket parts, specifically electronic ignition conversions, high amp alternators, electric cooling fans, consider saving yourself a bunch of money and just make sure the original systems are working as they were intended. The cars were perfectly reliable when they were new, I’ve known a lot more electronic ignitions to fail than I have points, Petronix in particular.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

True. That's the main goal - make sure everything is in proper working order. The initial engineers knew what they were doing! Keep things dialed in, and upgrade/modify as you see fit.......there's always a little room for improvement, but no need to go down the rabbit hole or break the bank!

[@LionsTigersBears]

Even dropping a HEI in it is good. Its a GM product.

[@kustombuilds538]

I never have a problem with points but have with electronic ignition. They are easy to get going if there is a problem. My summer cars go 10 to 20 years on a set of points.

[@amberreinke2924]

Exactly, points vs electric ignition. Points have to be adjusted about every 3,500 miles or next oil change, cold starting can be fixed with removing the small spring in the distributor giving you the advance early. Electric ignition no adjustment needed, will be replaced when it don’t work, note that when your electric ignition isn’t working properly, you ain’t moving, with points you can adjust them and keep moving. Different strokes for different folks

[@Haffschlappe]

Dont buy Chinese crap

[@randylear8264]

I just rebuilt my 70 GTX 440-6. I put the points back in it. I used a black high voltage factory looking coil. I grew up with these parts and know how to install them and keep them at their optimal. I always carry extra points and condenser. I do not expect to race or run it past 6000 rpm. So the points are fine. Also the 3X2 Holleys I rebuilt my self. I put the whole engine together myself. And I have owned this GTX since 81. I also own my 340 Challenger I have owned since 79. I have put a tool on every nut and bolt. These cars have not left me stranded. I say stay with what you know. I did put mini starters on both cars. I also run a clutch fan on both. If I was going for all out HP like in my youth I would do things differently. But these are just cruisers and car meet cars. They earned their golden years of leisure. Good advice and another one to add is keep it simple.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for chiming in. It's always neat to hear what types of experience people have, cool to hear what cars you have, and informative to learn what has worked for you! Keeping it simple is always great advice.....unless you're a phenomenal mechanic, and even if you are, there's definitely no need to overcomplicate things.

[@geraldscott4302]

Points are absolutely the way to go if your car came with them. They are not unreliable like everybody that does not know anything about classic cars seems to think. Crappy chinese made electronics are far more unreliable. I set my points with a business card, many people used to set them with a matchbook cover back when paper matches were a thing. Both seem to work perfectly. Nothing wrong with a feeler gauge if you have one handy. Never use a "points file". I use ultra fine sandpaper. Just drag it between the points once, flip it over and do it once more. You don't want to round off the contact surface.

[@tommurphy4307]

always use blue streak stuff when you can and use a feeler gauge.

[@niteshift92]

Hard to imagine folks dealt with those totally unreliable breaker-less points ignition systems for dang near 80 years. How did they ever get anywhere reliably?????

[@dukecraig2402]

They weren't reliable when they got old, the bushings in the distributor wore out and the points cam started floating around all over the place causing all kinds of issues, you should see what that looks like on one of the old scopes, electronic ignition conversion distributors in the first place will be new with fresh bushings, and they can get loose and it doesn't effect them nearly as much as the dwell isn't reliant on the shaft running true like it is with a set of points. I started working in a garage in my hometown in high school in the summer of 81, the owner was an old timer that made me learn points systems and how to maintain them first, and trust me, by 1981 the majority of cars born with points ignitions had worn out bushings in their distributors by then so I know the ups and downs of them, and yea they have some ups like you can carry an extra set of points for cheap in your glove box but they have downs to, and compared to the downs of electronic conversions the down side of points is worse, overall a conversion is better and more reliable. But hey, I'm a habitual tinkerer so I'll always have at least one machine in my collection that has points so I can have something to do on a rainy day, but for an owner of an old vehicle who isn't knowledgeable about them I always recommend they convert them over, they're starting out with something that's not only new but it also eliminates one more thing they won't have to maintain in the future.

[@tommurphy4307]

@@dukecraig2402 never had that problem with the old nissans and hitachi distributors they catch oil from the front cover. the bushing concern simply doesn't exist with some engine designs.

[@TheOneJPtv]

..DUDE!! ..EVERYTHING you just recommended I do to ALL my classic cars from hi-power starter, overkill alternator and Optima batteries. I HATE being stranded so these are ALWAYS the very first upgrades I do. LOve this video!!

[@scottolisar456]

You can’t beat a good functioning clutch fan and shroud. Nothing but problems with electric fans on all my power tours. My old Nova never had trouble in the hottest days with the factory design system .

[@demarques1911]

That's why I wanted to stay mechanical fan

[@gearheadgarageinc]

It's hard to beat the reliability and simplicity! I have a nearly new Dodge Ram Hemi Sport -- it runs a clutch fan, and it was built in 2020!

[@tommurphy4307]

@@demarques1911 hes talking a clutch that engages the fan when the coolant core warms up- just saying its a mechanical fan simply means the engine turns the fan blade. the clutch working properly minimizes the power consumed by the fan when it isn't needed at the moment.

[@calsacfab2]

I just discovered your channel and I realized you’re in my hometown! I have a 69 firebird and will definitely watch your videos to get knowledge. 👍🏼

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Awesome - I'm glad you found me!

[@peterrivney552]

I'd hate to tell you that the point & condenser distributors are the best for fine tuning your timing you can set the dwell precisely and get your best performance from it compared to a HEI system other that that first few minutes of your video is spot on .

[@erikturner5073]

Points are the way to go. They are super reliable as well. You just have to maintain them which isn't hard to do. In my many years of wrenching professionally I've seen too many aftermarket electronic systems especially pertrontix brands fail. Also standard points do well in performance builds up to 5500 RPM. that's in the realm of most street car builds. High performance dual points will take you further.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks. Yeah, I know points are super reliable and easy to replace. Most people don't know how, nor do they have a dwell meter....... THat tip was meant for those that just want to live behind the wheel!

[@gasolineintheblood23]

Points suck...my galaxie runs perfectly with pertronix

[@erikturner5073]

@@gasolineintheblood23 good for you. However I've seen too many pertrontix systems fail. Again as far as I'm concerned points are the way to go.

[@chrismorrison9140]

Points work perfectly for less than 1 second, as they degrade constantly. Electronic ignition doesn't.

[@LesleyStoddard]

Take all the character away and modernize it. Only for lazy people. Points etc have been around longer then electronic stuff. I know which one I would want out in the remote areas.

[@JasonWalroth]

The goal isn't to take away the character, jut to make the car more reliable for the average driver! Technology (done right) is usually a good thing.....those that aren't mechanics may not wanna drive around with a piece of sandpaper and a match-book in their glovebox :) Points can be quite reliable and simple - and EASY to replace or diagnose in a pinch, but also require maintenance and occasional adjustment. Number one concern anymore seems to be QUALITY of parts & components. Many a reliable car has run for 50+ years with the classic points technology! Many a fast car has run high rpm's using dual points! 😎

[@mickangio16]

​@@JasonWalroth Yessir- the quality of the replacement parts. General Motors points ignitions had a big advantage in their AC Delco distributors by being able to adjust point dwell externally. Ford and big block MoPars were a little harder to get the point gap(dwell) just right, but their distributors were up front and fairly easy to access. Small block MoPars a little more difficult with rear distributors. I wouldn't mind points ignitions so much if it weren't for the crappy points & condensers that are available now BUT the old distributors are probably worn out, too.

[@mickangio16]

You're probably right if breaking down in the middle of nowhere, in case of an EMP attack, or a solar flare. Points ignition may be best for a survival or bug out vehicle. But, actually, if you carry a set of points and a condenser in your Pertronix equipped vehicle, the ignition can be changed back to breaker points operation easily. Before using Pertronix products I used Mallory Unilite conversions. One in a boat that was regularly taken 40+ miles offshore for fishing. We DID carry a spare module but never had to use it. I'm going to estimate 10 Pertronix conversions that I've done in various vehicles and only one failed. I only did the installation on the distributor. The owner did the installation of the distributor into the vehicle, so...(?) I DID have bad experiences with a product that changed hands twice before being taken off the market. In two cases they made me look bad. A whole 'nuther story.

[@scottwheaton9689]

Yup, proper quality set of std motir parts/old name blue streak Ign pints & condenser properly installed,lubed & maintained as king with pother quality Ign parts required like dist caps & rotors e with better longer lasting cooper or brass terminals with lower resistance to current flow along with a bit hotter stock size & looking pertronix ign coil & their stock appearing custom fit low resistance spiral round/core plug wires too. That slightly upgraded Ign system combo I run on my #’s matching classic 69 chevelless396 4spd I bought off the original owners daughter in 1978 collectively adds up to a rock solid reliable Ign system th as t will not let you gown from one min to the next like iv’e seen mult diff aftermarket Elec ign systems do to people over the past 55yrs Iv’e been wrenching/restoring/rebuilding motors for classic muscle cars & motorcycles. My points of choice gir gm v8 sb as I’ll online at rock auto,eBay are dr2270xp points & udr7 or 7x condenser for std lower perf apps of 5k rpm or less. For higher rpm apps use of 5,500-6k+ rpm use like with solid cam’d sbc & bbc from the factory I run the dr2273xp points eith but stiffer spring to stop point bounce st higher rpm ti stop high rpm misfire. Only thing is the stiffer doting in the points wears the pints rubbing block a bit quicker so you just have to take 3-5mins every fo often to chk point dwell. Happy motoring.

[@MichaelKrzykowski]

​@mickangio16 Mopar did it better with the angled front mounted distributor the upright ford setup is much worse for carb tuning damn distributor is right in the way when you're trying to change jets or taking the fuel bowl off at all still doable but irritating

[@eycchu]

Thanks for verifying all the mods I made on my 1969 Mustang: - Platinum tipped spark plugs - Ignition system upgraded to Duraspark 2 distributor, module, and later E-coil. I also hooked in the starter signal that is supposed to retard the timing during cranking. The ballast resistor is wired so that it's bypassed during cranking. - A 3G alternator with 130 amp capacity (from a 1985 Windstar in the local scrap yard) replaces the old 65 amp unit. My battery terminal is a little busy because of all the electrical connection modifications. - A permanent magnet gear-reduction starter motor that's half the size of original design. - Aluminum radiator and an overflow tank from an Explorer. Tank is also integrated with the windshield washer fluid tank. - Flex fan with shroud; really helped with cooling. (I know you don't like the flex fan with those sharp blades that may not survive high rpms.) - New gas tank and fuel sending unit that does not seem to show accurate levels on the stock gauge. That may be the next upgrade, or the electric choke. Others: - Relays driving the head lights. Takes load off of the head light and hi/low beam switches, and provide much better power delivery to the lights. - Power assisted rack and pinion steering, with cooler. - Helical geared limited slip differential.

[@andrewwasson6153]

Nice! I did some of those mods on my 66 Mustang project (hopped up L6, manual transmission). Iridium NGK’s, I couldn’t find a decent Duraspark II so I bought a HEI distributor for Ford and rewired all high amperage wiring and added a fused relay for the new ignition. I also changed the carb to one with an electric choke (it’s dependable). I have not yet but will relay lights (great point by the way). I’ll also follow your lead on the Windstar alternator. My electrical hasn’t suffered at all but I’d rather be safe than sorry. My starter is a 2 point high mount starter and it’s close to the rear header tubes so it has a wrap on it. So far it’s never been heat soaked but I may change to a mini high torque and make an aluminum heat shield, just in case. Next up: Shelby Drop, T5 conversion and power dual bowl M/C. It still has manual brakes 😮 They’re actually not bad, I’ve got new lines, converted to DOT5 and it’s a manual transmission car with a lightweight engine (lighter if I can score an aluminum head.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Awesome! Sounds like you've been doing your homework. Thanks for your thoughtful comment. Good luck with your 'Stang!

[@jamesplotkin4674]

NEVER remove the ballast UNLESS you also change out the stock coil with a coil which is designed for full voltage. The stock coil will burn out and leave you at the side of the road.

[@thomasmulhall4873]

Points will also burn up without the ballast resistor

[@tommurphy4307]

@@thomasmulhall4873 not with an electronic coil or multiple-spark unit. electronic coils do not utilize a ballast resistor.

[@Haffschlappe]

In case of an EMP strike the old points ignition will still work fine

[@aristhompson8083]

Great content. Learned some of this by trial and error when I started my project.

[@antiqueautomotiveservice]

The fuel sending unit issue is mind boggling. All I can think is that most of the arms aren't bent correctly and need some adjustment when initially installed. It's so frustrating to get a car together only to find out the gauge isn't reading even close to what is actual.

[@BenCarling-z9l]

GM spent millions designing the shroud and clutch fan - they were installed on millions of cars and worked great - i learned the hard way - tossed my shroud and clutch fan when i went w a big block - installed dual hi flow elec fans - it ran hot - went back to shroud and clutch fan - no issues - yes you can get a big honkin aluminum radiator and super expensive SPAL elec fans that will work - but that is a ton of money for the budget hot rodder - just my 02 cents

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Agreed. My 2020 Ram Hemi runs a factory fan clutch and shroud.....and it's what I use to tow my 24ft enclosed trailer and all kinds of muscle cars around with!!!! Definitely good & reliable!

[@tommurphy4307]

more likely they stole the idea from some other car maker

[@scottboettcher]

What I like about the internet - it gives you new ideas. Some guys will never ditch points, for a number of reasons, but it's nice to know you can. Do what you like and can work with. Some guys below have a thin skin - keep yer points fellas. But he's probably not wrong that less moving parts are gonna last longer.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Exactly!

[@johncutright222]

Scott, I agree with you about the net! Great for ideas!

[@NorthNorth80sBaby]

Nice Jay!!!! It’s your boy big pimpin here! Gotta come see yall soon!

[@jamesplotkin4674]

I've had great success with Allison (later Crane branded) electronic ignitions. It's reliable and convenient and the timing never drifts, as it can with points which need attention. Plus, if you use a performance coil, the current draw makes points wear faster. Just one less thing to tinker with.

[@tommurphy4307]

that would only be true with a conventional, liquid-cooled coil- electronic units like the mallory super coil use far less energy (or 'current') than most stock coils.

[@TRUTH4U2NO]

No one uploads classic car info better than you man.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Appreciate the support!

[@mickangio16]

Overflow RECOVERY bottle. The hose must enter or reach the bottom of the bottle or tank to draw it back into the cooling system as it cools. The cooling system will stay filled to capacity that way. Always keep tank/bottle with some coolant level in it. I prefer half full.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for sharing!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Agreed. Having coolant in the reservoir will allow the system to binge & purge as needed. It's amazing how beneficial some of these "little things" can be!

[@tommurphy4307]

only true if you have a non-pressurized puke tank. if you have a pressurized expansion tank it must enter and exit at the bottom. you can convert your system to a pressurized type tank if you desire. something for guys with all-aluminum motors to consider- the blue coolant is expensive.

[@mickangio16]

Electric chokes work REAL good when IT AND the cold fast idle are adjusted correctly. The cold fast idle is usually set to about 1800 rpm- faster than necessary or desired. The adjustment is kinda hard to get to.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Points, chokes, parking brakes, yada yada --- they ALL work best when ADJUSTED PROPERLY! Thanks for chiming in

[@Richard4616]

I think changing to electronic ignition is a smart move because it is more reliable. Unless you are old school, people have problems adjusting them properly. I have a dwell meter and I have not used it in 20 years. I have not adjusted points with a filler’s gauge in 30 years.

[@scottwheaton9689]

I can’t believe you overlooked this item that many new classic car buyers are not aware of because it can possibly result in a trashed motor. So if nobody else has addressed it here is if your running a classic car with a flat tappet cam that you need to run oil with the proper increased zddp/zinc & phos level (1250-1300ppm ish stock low per/1500ppm-1800ppm max for higher perf ft cam App) that the avg over the counter oil sold today doesn’t have unless other wise noted as having increased zddp lvl from the oil mfg specifically for classic cars. If you don’t run zddp enhanced oil in ft cam apps (esp that are more of a perf oriented setup with stiffer springs & more aggressive cam lobe design) that will lead to premature cam/lifter wear/failure also taking out the bearing,crank etc sling with it running std off the shelf low zddp oil. A few higher zddp oils are avail in sone stores like valvoline vr race oil,castrol 20-50 that specifically states it’s got higher zddp lvl for classic cars,Lucas classic car oil,mobil1 syn 15w-50 though fully dyn oils are not always a great idea for old classic motors hit reasons I won’t get into here. Also, many people aren’t that many diesel oils in 15-40 grade have had their zddp lvls reduced a lot in past few yrs so they are not a great alt for increased zddp anymore so keep that in mind when people rec you run diesel oil for higher zddp lvls when it’s not always the case anymore. Also,Online you can get zddp enhanced oil for ft cam motors from eBay,Jegs,summit,Joe gibs Driven oil,Brad Penn Grade1 oil,Spectro Golden Motorguard Series oil & more. Happy motoring.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Indeed!! Today's oils are totally lacking the Zinc that classic engines need, specifically for cam lubrication. I agree that even Delo and other Diesel oils aren't the secret sauce. Lucas Oil makes a Zinc Plus additive and also offers specifically formulated Hot Rod & Classic motor oil. Eastwood makes a great ZDDP additive as well.....as do many others. Google "flat cam, low zinc" and you'd be amazed how many threads there are where people are talking about flattening their cams! To that end, roller cams are a great idea when rebuilding an engine. I guess we'd need to touch on the Leaded vs Unleaded gas too? Unfortunately, today's oils & fuels are not all that friendly to these classic cars!

[@andrewwasson6153]

Yes, good point. I’m using Lucas Oil Zinc Plus additive in my new engine. I used Lucas high zinc assembly lube on the build. It gave me a lot of confidence for the first start because it’s so clingy.

[@ceciltrane5418]

Switched from Valvoline to Rotella for a 200ppm boost of zddp. Both Valvoline and Rotella have great reputations but the Rotella is in the 1100ppm zddp range. My motor is bone stock using the recommended weight oil.

[@ronbelanger4113]

I have an old 911, must use the zinc oil. Only $15 CDN per liter, and it takes 12-13 per change.

[@2-old-Forthischet]

Having a larger output alternator also requires your wiring be in top shape otherwise it becomes a liability. Here in So Cal, I always just removed my choke altogether. It never gets that cold here.

[@TheRetarp]

I've had daily driver cars from every decade 1960's to present. As in I used them as my primary transportation to get to work! Everyone's experience is different but this is a fairly good list for a classic that is driven often rather than being a trailer queen or only to the local show and back. Points absolutely suck that's why every manufacturer abruptly switched to electronic ignition in the 70's as soon as the tech matured. Heat riser chokes sucked I always ripped them out and replaced with electric or manual choke. I have memories of needing extra time to get carbonated points cars to start and warm up on -10 F frigid mornings. It sucks. Points: Never again. electronic ignition is easy, has a hotter spark, and doesn't require adjustment. Wires: use a quality AC Delco, mopar, or Motorcraft low impedance performance set. they will last a lifetime. Spark plugs: using electronic ignition means you can use modern platinum or iridium 100,000 mile plugs. Quality OE plugs like NGK, AC Delco, or Motorcraft. Not E3 garbage. Carbs: Never again. EFI only for me going forward. If you want to take a serious road trip or rely on your car in any condition this is a no brainier. Starts every time no matter how hot, how cold, the altitude, or the ethanol content. Do the above three and you have a 50,000-100,000 mile tune up interval (basically when the cap and rotor wear out) Thermostat: Don't run a colder temp thermostat unless you are looking to eek out every remaining horsepower on a track or dyno. The colder thermostat trick only masks cooling system problems by sending hot coolant to the radiator earlier. It doesn't increase cooling capacity therefore it will still overheat on a hot day. The colder temp will also reduce fuel economy and dilute the oil with unburnt fuel. Instead get a better radiator or fan. Overflow bottle: 100% always do this. Fan: Dump the mechanical and get a quality electric OEM replacement fan & shroud. Notice I said OEM replacement. That way you can replace it at any auto parts store in the county. The older two speed fans from a 90's Ford Taurus, crown victoria, and thunderbird are good choices and move far more air than any mechanical fan. The engine will warm up faster because you aren't blowing cold air across it and you will gain 10-30 free horsepower (Hot Rod & Engine Masters have tested this on an engine dyno!). There are sensors you can wire in that will automatically turn the fan on and off. I always wire in an override switch so I can force the fan on. Be sure to wire in appropriate fuses you do not want to burn your car down. Alternator: OEM replacement from a newer popular model and wire it in. Can replace it at any parts store. Put out more amps at idle. This way you can also wire in proper fusing so it doesn't burn your car to a crisp like in the old days. Starter: rebuild a good condition OE starter with quality OE brushes and add a heat shield. Battery: buy the biggest cold cranking amp (CCA) AGM that will fit. No more battery maintenance. Battery cables: upgrade these to one or two gauges larger than OE. Hot starters draw more current. More current makes wires hot which draw more current. It's a downward spiral that kicks off when people build a higher compression engine but try to use stock wimpy cables. When combined with the starter rebuild and larger battery any slow crank issues will typically disappear. Implement the above list and you can forget about babying your classic car engine it will become turn key drive anywhere at anytime like a modern one.

[@mgbchuck6527]

Like your list (always do ALL of it) plus I'd also start with fresh oil/filter/transmission fluid, filter/antifreeze, water-water wetter/rear end oil/air filter

[@mickangio16]

Gauges and sending units must have matching ohm scales. If intending to use an aftermarket gauge or replace a tank sending unit be sure to investigate. Carmakers varied from models and years. Aftermarket parts also have to match.

[@PaulSchulz-z3m]

With the electronic ignition and changed out coil, you should also check the spark plugs marry the updated electronic system. With a higher spark strength you will probably need to go to a spark plug the operates with an optimum 1 to 1.2mm gap.

[@DD-gi6kx]

agree can't get rid of points quick enough, no outdated technology just cause

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

1st point is on the money MOST IMPORTANT THING

[@erikturner5073]

Actually points are the way to go in classic car in my opinion. I've seen too many aftermarket market systems like pertrontix fail in classic car in my many years of wrenching. Points just need maintenance which isn't hard to do. On the performance side, points perform just as well as electric ignition in most street builds. If more is needed there's high performance dual points if you need to go higher than 5500 RPM. Also for me when it comes to carbs, manual choke is the way to go as well. Electric chokes tend to mess up often. With manual choke, If the carb is DIALED in it won't be difficult at all to start and nurse it until the idle is stable for a minute, and two to maybe three if you have a mild cam. We're talking cold starting on a cool to cold morning. Electric choke was always a big complaint back when these classics were new. People never liked them. Everything else you've said i completely agree with.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

There's definitely nothing wrong with keeping things simple! Points can be very reliable. Parts just aren't as good as they used to be, and so many people don't know how to change points & set dwell, nor to they want to be bothered with it...... My point was mainly for the average Joe. Thanks for your feedback :)

[@tommurphy4307]

i've seen the pertronix units mounting parts crack and fail, but who knows how they were used/abused? i've NEVER seen the LED's or receivers inside them fail- so i disagree with your second sentence. i use the MSD 6-AL in my cars, and in my datsun, i use a stock magnetic/transistor distributor to kick the MSD unit. it has good fuel economy but only when i can keep my foot out of it....

[@erikturner5073]

@@tommurphy4307 Yes, the old, discontinued MSD 6AL is legendary. I have two of them myself. I'm talking about the cheesy models with all-in-one module and rev limiter inside the distributer. The electronics are not sealed or have heatsink (no form of protection whatsoever) and fail ALL THE TIME! Now the separate box style systems like the 6AL work all the time. Also, the old 6AL is not digital. Those models very popular during the 80's-90's. They were not digital back then. They had the bulletproof reliable transistor style electronics. Shortly before the old reliable 6AL models (typically cost $150 each) were discontinued, the later 6AL digital models were made available. Not sure about those models. I couldn't see paying $400 dollars per unit.

[@jeffreyyeater1780]

Ive never had a problem with points not being dependable .

[@ws678ta]

Those are excellent tips for those whom weren't taught the basics. Good job !

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you. That's all I'm trying to do - share some basic tips

[@Bluechip288]

My 66 Cutlass convertible is stock bumper to bumper. Runs great! These ideas are good to consider though.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I like that!

[@TheRareCriticalThinker]

Replaced my points to electronic ignition with an accompanying coil pack - best decision ever.

[@TheRareCriticalThinker]

I guess ignition coil is the correct term. Ha

[@ArrowheadGarage]

Great tips for first time classic car owners!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you!

[@8avexp]

I upgraded my '69 AMX's battery cables to 2 gauge and the solenoid-to-starter cable to 0/1 gauge. Its Edelbrock 1405 carb has a hand choke, which I'm familiar with.

[@jeffsr8300]

Tech tip for anyone who's ever replaced a camshaft, drill a 1/8" hole in your new thermostat, it'll still give resistance to the cooling system and you will be able to completely fill the cooling system.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Never hurts to drill that hole! I usually run a fail-safe thermostat so it can't fail closed. Good advice, thanks!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

These comments help to showcase how important it is to properly maintain and understand your vehicles needs. Done right and/or treated well, they can be reliable and enjoyable day in and day out. Miss a step or two and they can be finicky indeed. Thanks for the comments y’all

[@geraldscott4302]

If your car came with points, KEEP the points. I have three classic cars with points, and they run just fine. Points ignition will go for years without any attention, and it will not fail. If you feel you need to, carry a spare set of points, a condenser, and a coil with you. They can all be swapped out beside the road. If there is a problem, it will be super easy to find and fix. It won't be buried in some sealed black box. Keep electronic TRASH away from classic cars. Pertronix is JUNK. The 2 bolts on clamp on battery cable connectors make an excellent place to attach accessory wires. Make sure those wires are fused. DO NOT use a sharp knife to strip the insulation on a battery cable. You can cut the copper wires. I use what is commonly called a butter knife, heat it with a propane torch, and melt through the insulation. The best type of choke for a classic car is a manual, cable operated choke that can be controlled by the driver from inside the car. "Automatic" chokes WILL fail at some point. I like to have as much control over everything about the car as I can. That is part of the reason for owning/driving a classic car over a modern computer car where you don't have control of anything. I live near Phoenix, AZ, and you really don't even need a choke here. Pump the pedal a couple of times to squirt gas into the carburetor, start the engine, then LET IT WARM UP AT IDLE before driving. NEVER put a load on a cold engine. Avoid electric fans. They are unreliable, noisy, and just look completely wrong. I also don't recommend a fan clutch. They WILL fail, and it is impossible to have too much airflow. Yes a fan that runs at full speed all the time does use more engine power, but unless it is a race car, it really doesn't matter. I do agree with a 160 degree thermostat. That is well below the boiling temperature of water. I run just distilled water with a rust inhibitor in a couple of my classic cars, and run the cooling system UNPRESSURIZED. I use a standard radiator cap, and only turn it to the first notch, which holds it in place, but does not allow pressure to build up. Even in stop and go city traffic in 110 degree heat in Phoenix, AZ, the engine temperature almost never gets above 165 degrees. Pressurized cooling systems are designed to increase the boiling point of the coolant. But mine never gets close to the boiling point.

[@bluejacketsfan60]

In a nutshell what you're saying is why complicate a reliable easy to work on car.....which I totally agree with. I have a bone stock 1968 F100 that I've traveled a little with and people ask me "what if it breaks down?" to which I respond I can fix anything short of catastrophic on the side of the road - no rollback, computer techs, or mechanic needed. Just put a small tub of spare parts and a small toolbox in the bed and you're covered.

[@geraldscott4302]

@@bluejacketsfan60 Exactly

[@TheRareCriticalThinker]

Also, if you go with the electric fan route, make sure to use a relay. Do not hot wire it with a switch in your dash.

[@johnoliver3316]

All good advice

[@billguthrie2218]

Fuel gauges ... I found that you need to put it in to an empty tank and bend the float rod so that the float sits at the bottom of the tank at the lowest float rod stop point. You may have to do it several times to get it right. They don't come with the proper bend on them. . Look through the filler tube hole.

[@francfurian8215]

All simple, but important things to do. Well done! Cheers😊

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks. Just trying to share with others that may not be in the know!

[@chronoscreations2358]

To each their own and there are many variables that should go into it but I got a near 70 year old points distributer that still works beautifully to this today. I can not say the same about a single hei/electrictronic setup I've had no matter what the brand is. I preffer and manual choke myself. If I'm not paying attention to that then what else am I not paying attention to aswell is my mindset. The car will tell you what it wants as long as you're listening. 😎

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Yeah, I’m another guy for points. I just had a MSD CDI ignition system fail on my ‘66 Beetle the previous owner installed. The pick up is like 80 friggin dollars, and fails every 3 to 9000 miles. I’m not much of a gambling man, so I’ll take a points trigger any day of the week. At least if that craps out on the side of the road, I can file it down, make an adjustment, and get myself home. When the magic pick up fails, you’re screwed. Tow truck time! 😬

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I guess if you had the perfect system, you'd never have any issues. But, is there such a thing? To that end, points can definitely do the trick.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@gearheadgarageinc There is no perfect system. Never will be so long as greed exists in this world. I just prefer points because my chances of getting home after a failure WITHOUT a tow truck are 10,000% higher than with un-fixable electronics.

[@BckFvrTV]

Good tips! thumbs up!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Appreciate that!

[@no65mph]

Shop looks great, Jason. I’m going to be up there end of December or the first week of January. I don’t know if you’re going to be around. I have a project up there that’s going to take me about a week. I want to come by and see you and the family. I hope all is well. Looks like you’re building some incredible stuff and I’m so happy for you.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Reach out, we should be around!

[@ZEEKUPP]

New subscriber here. Great advice. I do agree that the electronic ignition system is an overall better system having better dwell angle and little or no maintenance. That said, If I was going to be an absolute purist about a classic car I would keep the original style ignition system in it. Also, usually, if the points acted up, usually I could take a file to them and cripple home (I used to just carry a spare set in the glovebox). If an electronic module dies, the towing company is getting called. That actually happened to me once. Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Trusting a fuel gauge left me stranded once.

[@dzeyo651]

alot of older classic cars did have a heavy duty starter option, so if you got a skinny one on there put a fat one .. also a common issue with old plug wire systems is voltage leaks and cross firing ..usually if the wires are good it wont be too noticeable, but get under the hood with it running in the dark and look closely everywhere. youll see the importance of loom clips and keeping wires isolated .. she'll purr alot better ..

[@tommurphy4307]

the small gear-reduction units (like the mac tiilton units) are very popular nowadays.

[@fasst5511]

Funny how those points and condenser worked fine in millions of cars for so many years. I have driven lots of cars with P&C over the years and never had them fail on me. I still use them in my restored 72 Camaro SS for originality. Hand a dwell meter and a timing light to a car tech under the age of probably 40 and see the deer in the headlights look on their face.

[@UltimatumDemon]

I can’t believe you didn’t include the most important thing to do with classic cars: Put fuel in the gas tank! … Most of your list is just (thing go bad? Replace it!)

[@JasonWalroth]

Or an ignition key, lol. I hear that!! 😜

[@internallycombusted1]

number one old car rule (even if its all new parts) Buy a good fire extinguisher and mount it in your car. thank me later. also talking about chevy starters. If you want the best most reliable staggered sbc/bbc starter get one from your part store for a 1996 k1500 5.7(its the permanent magnet type don't get the direct drive one). its basically a factory mini starter and it cranks great. and its a little more budget friendly

[@gearheadgarageinc]

That's a great starter option. And - YES, a fire extinguisher can be invaluable!!

[@jimmy_olds]

I’m a huge proponent of a mechanical fan with clutch, big rad, and shroud. I’m willing to trade some maintenance for power when it comes to headers, but I’m willing to give up power for a rock solid cooling system.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

I'm the same way. I almost always run headers - and when the gaskets are qulaity, installed well, and torqued time and again they work great! .......... no pain no gain

[@Raptor3388]

On my 84 Trans Am, the fuel gauge is extremely precise, the moment the needle is on the last bar, there's no fuel left. No reserve, no tolerance. I've learned the hard way a couple of times.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

HA! No reserve like on new cars.......don't push your luck! Thanks for sharing your experience

[@coloradoklutch8005]

I've had so many problems with modern, electronic ignition "upgrades" that I'm ready to go back to points. Points won't leave you stranded on the side of the road. A fried electronic ignition module will. So if you run an electronic ignition module, you had best keep a set of points in the glove box.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Just need to know how to swap 'am and how to set the dwell! Bummer you've had such crappy luck with electronics. It's a testimony to how low quality parts can be these days

[@jeroldlafferty54]

With points your tune-up go's away because the dwell (timing)changes you'll foul plugs because of weaker spark at your spark plugs. With electronic ignition the only thing that changes tune up is your distributor cap and roter.You tune up will last 3× longer.

[@geoffpace8981]

good tips , keep your car reliable and safe .cheers

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you!

[@BrianFong-ng2ur]

What about the Coil.. externally resistor coil vs internally resistor Coil. Reason why the externally ballasted resistor (or not). Ive seen to many burned out coils.

[@yurimodin7333]

converting to factory style electronic ignition HEI, Duraspark, etc is waaaaaaaaaay better than the conversions.

[@deannoun]

All excellent points! Well done! I would add if the starter comes out, replace both battery cables with nice thick ones. Cables wear and corrode over time and very inexpensive.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Absolutely! I'm always a fan of quality battery cables - in another video I suggest new cables, or at least non-corroded cables with quality soldered ends.....and an adequate battery.

[@Geoduck.]

Gold. New subscriber. I never considered upgrading an alternator. Thanks for that! Changing to an HEI or other electronic ignition is inexpensive and a fairly easy upgrade so worthwhile! I've always made my own battery cables in larger gage. Also increased the wire gage to starter and alternator. And, IMPORTANT make sure grounds to frame, engine and starter are in good condition upgrade to larger gage if they need replaced. This can be done in a few hours and not as expensive as you may think.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Agreed! Thanks for subscribing!

[@mrvango3648]

As usual good advice... One thing that I disagree with is the 160 thermostat. A 180 would be better since it allows the coolant to stay in the radiator longer and cool it cooler.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Before I lived in the hot heat of Sacramento, I used 180's all the time.....but 160's have proved even better!

[@southernshooter]

So much good info!

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Glad you think so!

[@mmb1487]

As far as heat goes what about wrapping exhaust pipes to keep heat away from starter and other components in engine bay

[@gearheadgarageinc]

That's definitely a viable option! Thanks for sharing

[@trevorthompson572]

Points are fine for what we’re using the cars for these days. Though there’s nothing wrong with upgrading to a GM HEI.

[@robinarrington5498]

Im suprised u didnt mention the non roller lifter motors need for the ZDP in the oil.Joe Gibbs driven motor oils has great options for these classic cars.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

ABSOLUTELY! More people need to understand how all this low zinc oil is killing cams & lifters. I always run Amsoil Z-Rod, Lucas specially formulated or add ZDDP. Thanks for sharing

[@richardfabrizio8998]

Your very knowledgeable

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks!

[@MyBuddyTheMechanic]

NOTE: IF YOU UPGRADE TO AN ALTERNATOR WITH HIGHER AMPERAGE, UPGRADE YOUR BATTERY CABLES TO A THICKER GAUGE, AS WELL AS CHASSIS TO BODY, AND CHASSIS TO ENGINE GROUNDS.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Also best to run a 1-wire design with larger 4ga wire or better in many applications so the charge wire can handle the load. Thanks for sharing!

[@johndragon3900]

Points and manual choke always worked for me .screwelectonic.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

For you and many others! Just meant, most people don't know how to deal with 'em, can't change them in a pinch, and don't have a dwell meter to dial them in. There's definitely something to be said for keeping it simple!

[@joshtijerina3519]

Just got a 74 nova ot truns over but won't start. Gonna do all these uo grade and see what happens. Thanks

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Best of luck! If all else fails, pop the distributor cap to confirm that the distributor rotor is turning when the engine cranks ....then go from there!

[@brandywithbob2446]

Never had points fail. They do get out of adjustment and so require maintenance. I used n early electronic ignition system years ago and loved it but more recently I've had two electronic ignition systems fail. Also, if you remove the ballast resistor you have to get a coil that is designed for full voltage, otherwise you'll burn out the coil designed to use the resistor. The other issues depend on how original you want the car to be.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Agreed. Most people aren't up to adjuting points, and you can sneak an electronic conversion under most caps. I guess it all depends......

[@mickangio16]

Good stuff. Make more videos😊

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Definitely!

[@1stormseekr336]

lol, i ran out of gas once...because of a fuel gauge...that was in 1989, leaving "Sturkey Fest" in northern arkansas.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Such a PAIN!

[@SteveGoen]

Soldered battery cables say you so much time on starting and eliminate electical problems.

[@Greybhm]

Just watched one your videos telling not to use the blade fan….

[@kenworks6068]

Straight up good advice. I modify things I don't like on my cars. This often means modernizing systems as driving failures are a bigger issue than some jack asses opinion at cars and coffee. Those who flip cars get more money keeping everything original.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Well said. Thanks for tuning in.

[@Borkery]

the points in my 48 packard havent left me stranded, AND in situations where my battery has gotten very very low "its 6 volt" since there are no electronics to wake up with voltage on my points system. I can get my car to fire if i can get it to just barely crank over. On my petronix based car. if that battery gets flat from a few days of sitting and i gotta crank it. the voltage sags to low for the petronix sensor to work and the car will never fire even though it has enough juice to turn the engine over, but not enough to make the electronics on the petronix work. Just something to consider. so to me the points delete is another one of those un-needed upgrades for people who had a bad experience with points and think its the end all solution.

[@josephlamb9175]

68 years old , owed over 25 cars with the dreaded Points and Condenser . 390 Fords , 440 tri power Super Bee, L82 Corvette , 1960 Studebaker, AMC Javelin 360 , if you own a real car , if you don't sweat learning how the ignition system actually operates , if you can read a volt , ohm meter, YOU too can drive your classic car anywhere without some Chinese made fool prone Petronix. Etc .Fantasy reliability in a Chinese carton .....

[@gearheadgarageinc]

So many fans of points out there. They work. So can electronics. Many car owners are NOT capable, nor willing to learn. And YES, Chinese crap parts are the biggest problem! Just don't get quality parts like we used to! Thanks for sharing your experience

[@marleneseely3509]

I would never use a battery disconnect switch. My car had one that shorted and left the car useless until I found the problem. The less stuff on your battery cables, the better.

[@John-s8s8q]

Now if Only I can get it started 😜

[@ceciltrane5418]

Brand new fuel sending unit in a new tank. Lasted a month. 2nd replacement sending is working well for a few years now, but i got 50+ years out of the original. The parts reproduction industry is quite hit or miss.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

It's such a roll of the dice anymore!

[@jayfinn6698]

great video, i'm in.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Glad you're in!

[@andrewwasson6153]

You won me over with tune up and replace the antiquated points system and provide adequate 12v power to the upgraded ignition. I got out of hot ridding for about 20 years but didn’t stop strategizing how my next build would go; I just got back into it with a 66 Mustang. When I pulled the engine for the Mustang to rebuild it, while the machine shop was busy with the head, block, rods and crank, I rewired the ignition and went through the entire electrical system, replacing all ground points and high amperage +12v wiring; I added a relay for the +12v ignition that goes to the coil. I also put in a new HEI distributor & coil and a new carb (with electric choke), removing the bolt on parts that can/will frustrate any car build. My new engine fired right up the first time I cranked it; no messing around like my previous projects, cobbled together with questionable wiring, firing and fueling.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Good for you! Glad you're back in it!

[@donberry5677]

I run a 440 with a points distributor firing a MSD box shifting at 7000. Also using FWD pattern full manual torqueflite transmission. Never seen a problem with either . Use good parts is the right advice. Don’t get greedy

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Well said! And, points can work just fine indeed!

[@jeffreyschweiger7960]

Factory original fuel sending units with a proper ground work fine, its when you buy a new one from china. They haven't figured out how to make the potentiometer work like the old ones. Take one apart and you will see. I did a lot of testing on my 70 Charger with this problem. I took them apart and noticed the windings on the pot was wrong and the float was sitting too high. That being said find a good rebuilder and have your original sending unit rebuilt.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

TRUTH!!

[@chrisheyer1]

Number 11 change your differential fluid

[@rayklein1291]

If you’re stuck somewhere, you are screwed if your electronic ignition goes out.

[@rossmason4434]

Great video 👍👍

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thank you!

[@Obamaistoast2012]

I never had any problem with points they work just fine if maintained ant set properly. Electronic is fine if your not keeping the car 100 percent original.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Points have worked reliably forever.! The tip was for meant for the average Joe that doesn't have knowledge, nor desire to change points & set dwell

[@KirbyCook-p2y]

I'll take an aftermarket rear-end, or at least a c clip eliminator over the dangerous stock one

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Ain't that the truth! I remember when my buddy has an axle brake and slide out the tube.......wished he had a different design, or at least a disc brake to keep it from flying out!!

[@MyBuddyTheMechanic]

You're dissing points, which are the epitome of reliable. You mean inconvenient... However the electronic module can and will eventually fail, dirty points will run less efficiently, but will still run. That's not even considering an EMP attack... only the points distributor vehicles will be running. so don't chuck the points distributors, keep one in your trunk : )

[@gearheadgarageinc]

You nailed it - inevitably, all these things may fail! All things being equal, electronic is more user friendly IF they work!. If you know how to work with points, keep an extra set, a matchbook or feeler gauges, and a few tools just in case.......problem is, most people wouldn't know what to do :)

[@AlbertPendergraff-rp7jp]

I have an all original car it's a prototype and j never change anything from factory if it's not the factory parts I don't get them

[@elebeu]

I tuned out after tip #2. Jumping on the electronic ignition bandwagon and ditching the points makes no sense. Hundeds of billions of set of ignition points have served motor vehicles for over a century. I would rather have a spare set of points and condenser in my glove box instead of trying to troubleshoot my electronic ignition system in the dark on the side of the road.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

A good set of points can go a long way. They can be super simple AND reliable. Unfortunately, most people aren't able to change points or adjust well. And, aftermarket points kits are often such poor quality!

[@Malcolm_Reusing]

Okay I need to cheim into this conversation. I'm a 21 year old that owns a 1969 mach 1 mustang with a 351 windsor. What bugs me the most about videos like this is misinformation like this costs people like me THOUSENDS of dollars for "upgrades" that weren't necessary in the first place. Lets talk about some things I agree about this video first. I agree that people need to have the right battery, the correct voltage, the right running thermostat, and make sure your fuel gauge is accurate (in my personal experience i never had a problem with the accuracy of my fuel gaudge). Now lets talk about the things I disagree with, for one is "not trusting" the old fan on these cars. I run a stock fan with the factory fan shroud and a copper radiator in 95 degree california weather and always kept cool. Seccond is your claimed nessecity for an electric choke, I and many other people run manual chokes on our cars for many years and do fine its called letting the car idle and pushing the choke back in gradually as the car warms up (it sounds more time consuming then it is, it takes a minute to do this). Finally is electronic conversation or more so the statement that "points are unreliable, throw them in the trash" dude that is such horse shit its not points that are unreliable its YOU if you lube,gap,set, and dwell your points properly they work very reliably. The problem with points is the owners don't adjust or replace them on time or correctly which makes them run "unreliably". Nothing wrong with electronic ignition but saying points just dont work is a complete lie. Worse of all many comments on this video have addressed this to you and your response was "ya I know the old systems are super reliable but ya know I was trying to generalize it for most classic car owners that don't wanna deal with that stuff" but you never adressed that in your video. I highly recommend you to make a new video adressing this because seriously this advice can cost people hundreds if not THOUSENDS of dollars. To sum my very long point the original systems work, the engineers knew what they were doing, and as someone who daily drives a classic a classic car is only as reliable as YOU make it. Keep it simple, keep it stock, or lightly modified.

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Thanks for your comments. I'm not trying to get into internet battles here with people that have different experiences than I do. MANY people don't know how to turn wrenches, and if they do, they don't want to. I personally don't run points in my vehicles, nor would i install a dual point distributor. They're consistent OLD technology. There's just better stuff out there nowadays. But points can suffice, they have for 75 years. In a 10minute video, you can't really break it all down.....and even if I do, people will disagree. As time permits, I'll work to do videos that take a deeper dive. Some will be agreeing with the simple stock mindset, and some will lead towards RestoMod stuff. People will disagree with both, but there will be good info for people to take into account and make their own decisions.

[@600wheel]

Fox Body guys be careful of those 160° thermostats. fox bodies (5.0) are generally very good at cooling themselves and the 160 might not let your engine warm up enough. Ask me how I know

[@gearheadgarageinc]

Yeah. Alot of injected cars like a warmer t-stat

[@gearheadgarageinc]

And - damn, I don't know if I wanna know what happened to YOUR engine?

[@600wheel]

@ It wouldn’t come out of efi choke mode (open or closed loop fuelling I can never remember which) and this is worth a 331 bottom end all Edelbrock top end and Paxton Novi 2000 blower with a stock radiator and an electric fan. I put the 160 in to try it out before I went time trial racing at my local road course one weekend after 3 laps the 180 went back in. Windsors cool good but Ford has the Fox on point. With the 180 I can just adjust the thermostat on the electric fan and get incredibly good control over the temperature even stuck in Hwy traffic and rolling vettes on these Ludacris hot days we’ve been having the last few years PS Edelbrock mech water pump too

[@600wheel]

@ exactly

[@crashnbl1]

My factory points system in my Camaro has lasted almost 40 years but yeah... it's totally unreliable! LMAO

[@gearheadgarageinc]

LOL

[@TheddreaJackson]

Leave the switch on and see how fast the points pits