218 - Installing a Segmented Cutterhead in a Jointer

[@josephzawodny]

I have a 6" Powermatic Jointer. I am upgrading to the Shelix cutter. Watching you work with your jointer makes me feel very confident I can do the upgrade. Thanks for the clear and concise explanation. You never disappoint. Well done.

[@cuskit]

Smart move (installing that head). I made that decision a couple of years ago on my 12" jointer. I had held off as the price was over a grand for a 12" Byrd Shelix head, but after commissioning a job replacing all the interior doors (32 to be exact) in a local home with rustic oak - I just knew the time had come. I haven't looked back, have ruefully shook my head wondering why I had ever waited. You've put out an excellent video - hopefully you will have convinced many to install these heads, they are excellent! 3 years later and I've only rotated 4 cutters, and we use our jointer daily (production shop with 4 employees). Okay - as always - really appreciated you sharing you time with us. Kudos, my friend! :-)

[@fredbarkow108]

Marc, Very nice video. You and you wife do an excellent job. Thanks

[@terrybrim1374]

Several people over the years have asked about adjust the outfeed table and blade height. I recently did it on this Powermatic jointer which came with the helical cutter and no instructions for making this adjustment. As long as the jointer is in tune, it is a dream to use. However, this jointer was originally designed for a conventional 3 bladed cutterhead. With that style cutterhead, the outfeed table alignment involves three steps: a) adjust the table parallel to the axis of the cutterhead using a digital measuring devise at each edge of the table, b) use the adjustment lever at the back of the jointer to set the table height to about 1/8” above the cutterhead, and c) set the blade height to a couple thousandths on an inch above the table either using a digital gage or the simpler “stick dragging method” advised in the manual. When the blade will drag a stick about 4mm (slightly under 1/8”), it indicates the blade is about 0.002” above the outfeed table. (You want the blade slightly higher than the outfeed table because the jointing process actually creates a series of overlapping ripples. At an “average” feed rate, the ripple peaks will align with the surface of outfeed table.) In this process, the middle step is the only time you use an adjusting mechanism built into the tool, AND you don’t need to be very precise. You can be off 20 or 30 thousandths in this step and make up for it in the last step where you are adjusting the blade height directly. With a helical cutterhead, you skip the middle step and go directly to adjusting the table height to the blade height. Ignoring friction in the mechanism and bending in the adjustment lever, you need to move the end of the table height adjustment lever about 0.004” to raise the hundred pound table about 0.001”. For reference, a human hair is .003”. Think about that for a few seconds, and you will realize it ain’t going to happen. After a lot of trial and error, I found that the simplest process for tuning the table height is to first use the lever to set the table just above the blades. (On my jointer, this happens when the gap between infeed and outfeed tables is about 1 3/8”). Then, rotate the cutter head so the blades at the center of the table width are out of the way, and using a wooden block and rubber mallet, lightly tap the leading edge of the outfeed table driving it towards the back of the jointer. After each tap, lock the table and measure the stick drag. If at any point you overshoot, you have to start over. For the stick, I used a scrap of 1x3 about 6” long with the bottom edge dead flat. I made a mark about a half inch back from the leading edge, and another mark 4mm farther back. It’s important to note that the leading corner of the blade will lift and drag the stick, but if you don’t catch that leading edge, it will just nudge it aside. I found it best to have the blade point about ¼” in from the edge of the stick. You also have to be careful which two blades you use for this process. If you try a stick drag on each blade, you will find quite a range in drag distance due to little local imperfections in the table flatness or proper seating of the blade itself. Try to find the two highest outer blades near the edges, and mark them so you always use the same one.

[@diverhose]

This was an awesome episode! Can't wait to see episode 118. Keep up the work! And thanks for all the great close-up angles! It makes it very clear! Two thumbs up!

[@crchrdsn]

Every video on these installations makes it seem way easier than it really is lol.

[@mikemccreery3163]

Mark, just bought a shelix head for my jointer and googled and your video came up. Excellent as always. And it is mission critical for some people who are nearsighted with an astigmatism and lack of patience. Hopefully I will be able to joint a board flat finally ;]

[@williaty]

Wow, I am very happy you posted this. I've got the same jointer and want to swap heads but the local store has been telling me that I'd have to remove the beds from the center, dismount the center section from the stand, and roll the whole thing over. It's awesome to see this will be much less work!

[@woodwhisperer]

It's a tight fit even with the tables all the way down. I actually thought I was going to have to take the beds off. Fortunately, you just have to slide the head out toward the front instead of lifting it up.

[@valkyr1985swe]

Why oh why am i watching this? Im not a woodworker, nor do I own a jointer. Im amazed how interesting stuff can be for no obvious reason.

[@cranezilla1016]

+valkyr1985swe Go back to the porn channel

[@valkyr1985swe]

+Crane Zilla way ahead of you!

[@marvinmcconoughey3547]

You are (were) watching because machinery is very interesting, and upgrades possibly even more so. Also the Wood Whisperer is a genuinely excellent presenter. You may wish to consider adopting woodworking as a hobby. You can do it all your active life, do it at any scale from very modest to hugely ambitious, and woodworking brings one into contact with other interesting and creative people, like many who post on this site.

[@852texasrescue]

Just put one on a Delta DJ-15. I should have done this years ago. Amazing, cut better than I could have imagined. Now I want to spring for one for my planer.

[@stevengaren1150]

excellent tutorial, thanks. I just bought an older Powermatic model 60 and I think the shelix head should work for it too. Great tip on the auto supply rental and masking tape trick!

[@nei5553]

Thanks for this video. Helped guide me through changing mine out

[@davecolburn1378]

I've been looking for an example for installing the Shelix Head on my Ridgid JP0610 -- nice description of the process and showing practical ways to get the job done. Thanks

[@marvinmcconoughey3547]

Same here. Now to find out if a new head will fit my new Ridgid JP0610 jointer. I've read that they have used two different diameter cutterheads.

[@stevensrspcplusmc]

Thanks mark for the video👍 just ordered my Shelix for my delta dj20... thank god delta put the journal bolts on top! I should have a easier time withit😊

[@cuskit]

A note on the noise - behind our industrial shop, we have 3 residences. So - if I need to work at night I have to be concerned about the noise level. I can say for sure I could never face boards at night - it indeed did sound like an aircraft screaming. Jointing edges was not too bad, but for wide boards (remember - mine is 12" wide) the sound was horrific. Now, with the Byrd Shelix head - it's reduced the noise level significantly - enough that I can now face wide boards at 3 in the morning if I'm so inclined (yea, I do put in a few "all nighters"). That alone is well worth the higher cost of a segmented head (at least the Byrd, I'm not familiar with other brands). Hey, by the way - did I ever tell you how awesome your new shop is? Wow! I just watched the build video of the shop again. Cool!

[@acusticsix]

great up-grade to the aircraft carrier! thanks for referring me to 118 (setting up a jointer) i'am sure my delta 6" needs some tweeking. great videos, again thanks...tim

[@rubenamateur4566]

Hi Marc, I recently subscribed to your channel and I find it very interesting and good'm also catching up on the latest videos and every time I learn more, I hope to find this accessory for a jointer in these parts and to make installation a salute to my friend away from Lima-Peru

[@markkoons7488]

Got a PJ-882 too and a new head on order. That particular model's replacement is only available from one manufacturer. Their name is like zipper in the sense that it has become synonymous with the concept. Many other jointers are available from their competition so search "helical cutterhead".

[@GlennBartley]

Thank you very much for this video. It was very helpful. Cheers Marc!

[@mmbetz]

Reducing the sound level by 20 Db may not ‘look’ like much, but a 20 Db reduction would seem to be about 4 times quieter. Decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale. So that is a significant sound reduction!

[@Oldsinger]

Great video. I just bought a Grizzly 8" planer. It has two key features- 2 hp motor and spiral head cutter. It was $400 more for the spiral head, but well worth the extra cost.

[@lokinya]

Saw this type of cutter on a 20" Felder some time ago on an exhibition. Even for a beast of a machine like that, it was so quiet and the results were great. Sadly I forgot my wallet and couldn't take the machine home.

[@steveswoodworking2504]

I ordered a Byrd Shelix jointer head, and ended up getting a defective one that wouldn't fit in my jointer, it hit the cast iron. They said they had not centered the cutting tips on the head, and the rest of them they had there were the same way. I was told I could either grind the one sticking out too far, OR I could wait until IF or WHEN they make a new batch, they could then send me one. So I could either modify it, and have to modify it every time I need to change the cutting surface, or I could wait an indeterminate amount of time (possibly forever) for a new cutter head. Neither of those solutions sounded good to me, So I told them I wanted a refund. They were reluctant to send me a refund, and said they'd send me a new cutter head - but he still wasn't sure a few days later if they even had any more in stock that weren't defective. I'm still waiting for my refund. I would never try a Byrd Shelix head again. Terrible customer service when a problem happens.

[@rdipri]

Great video, thanks! I just installed the Shelix cutter head on my 6" Powermatic jointer. I was able to reinstall the bolts in the bearing housings fairly easily by placing a wooden shim under the bolts until they engaged with the threads. The shim held the bolts in place as i tightened them until they were fully engaged in the threads. My biggest problem was with the size of the bolt heads. The manual said they were 14mm, yet my 14 mm wrench was too small, and my 15mm was too large. I ended up having to use the wrench that came with the jointer, which was labeled "14", and this slipped only a little less than my 15mm wrench. If I ever have to remove the bolts again it will be difficult, as I rounded a couple of the faces while tightening them with the ill-fitting wrenches.

[@BruceAUlrich]

Good information. Exactly what I was trying to find out.

[@johnemerson3674]

Mark, Thanks for the great video. You refer to your video #118 for info about how to configure after having installed the helical cutterhead. In that video, you make the tables coplaner and then set the knife edges to be coplaner with the outfeed table. Is it not the case that with helical cutterheads, the first step is to make the outfeed table coplaner with top dead center all along the cutterhead?

[@owenjohnson5030]

I started with my planer and just ordered a head for my jointer. I've had one question about these cutters that I've not solved yet. How do you determine which cutter heads have a nick in them in order to determine which ones need to be rotated? Do you use a then feeler gauge to see if it catches?

[@scott98390]

For those new to sound levels, -3 dB is HALF as loud. So, for a 20 dB reduction, the noise was cut in half almost seven times (21 dB). That's HUGE.

[@RobertSzasz]

Just adding that locking out the plug (even just taping a lock put around it) is a good practice. Plugging in the wrong thing, or someone else plugging in a machine that's not put back together can be a pain.

[@THSurvivalGear]

That's one of the greatest advantages of the helical cutterhead, it works far better on figured woods and doesn't tear or check the fibers.

[@hoxha34]

how many times have you turned the inserts. Also have you found a cheaper resource for the inserts. $35 for 10 inserts, it can get costly.

[@davidryder3374]

So, there's no need to set the height of the blades relative to the outflow table? How about making sure the outflow/infeed tables are coplanar to the cutting blades? I see no way indemic to your machine to raise either end of that blade, other than inserting some kind of shim under the bearing race, which you didn't mention. So are we now just supposed to adjust the tables to the cutting head? If so, I assume a dial indicator on one of the concentric surfaces of the cutting head, referenced against the table?

[@mclarkin0906]

Did your bearing housing have a set screw? It looks like there is threads for it but none there. I got this as a hand me down so not sure if i need to replace those.

[@mclarkin0906]

never mind, im an idiot. those threads are where the rods screwed into :)

[@ScramblerUSA]

Another advantage is it reduces the load on the motor and makes it even. Good for motor, good for you. In case of straight cutting blades the entire blade makes contact with the workpiece. Depending on the piece (if you jointing a face) it could be a huge surface = huge load on motor. Then cutter goes away and motor has a chance to recover its speed. Then another blade makes contact... When you use helical head, also one cutter at a time makes a contact. But the surface of this contact is very small. And so is the load on motor. By the time first cutter is about to leave the scene, another one engages. Hence, no load change on motor, it runs smoother, quieter and longer.

[@steven.woodward]

Question: How did you get the new Shelix cutter head to be perfectly parallel with the outfeed table? With standard straight blade cutter head, the blades are adjusted to be parallel with the outfeed table, even if the cutter head itself is not perfectly parallel to outfeed table. With Shelix cutter head there is no adjustment of blades.

[@00dahc]

You adjust the tables and fence to the cutter head.

[@billystray7007]

easy with a parallelogram not so easy otherwise

[@curtwashburn9800]

Why would you upgrade your plainer prior to upgrading your jointer to a helical ?

[@kpandinu]

What is the name of that wood he had at the end?

[@barstad-9591]

Excellent. Thanks.

[@jve5280]

Why buy a cutter head that has you use your old used bearings? There are manufacturers out there that supply new high quality installed bearing with your new cutter head. For this price point seems like a no brainer. Great video, thank you for the tips

[@dietermayr5888]

If I would take all the effort to take out that cutter head and replace it with a new one I would spend it a new set or bearings too, especially if the old ones have a consideralbe runtime already. They are not really expensive and if the whole thing is separated already, it's no big deal to change them.

[@woodwhisperer]

I think there's plenty of life in the existing set of bearings. Just didn't occur to me to change them too.

[@Dr.KennethNoisewater]

best to replace a bearing if you put a puller on the outer race like that. cheap insurance.....i would prob just do both. thanks for posting

[@jimrollyson823]

Quick question Marc, have you recorded an episode of setting up the helical head height? I have watched your original jointer set up video multiple times, but curious what the set up is like for the helical head relative the traditional cutting knives as shown in episode 118. Thanks for what you do.

[@JorgeAraujo]

Ok well I guess I need to get a Pwermatic Jointer and then a Helical cutter head... Wonder if it does a better job than my #5 Jack Plane...cuz that what I use... LOL!

[@curtisz789]

Nice video....Why not replace the bearings with new ones?

[@woodwhisperer]

It didn't occur to me. The jointer isn't all that old and those bearings likely have decades of life left in them. Though I wouldn't blame someone for replacing them while gutting the machine. As I said, it just didn't occur to me.

[@OldePhart]

You have likely been told this by now, so apologies, but when you pull a bearing using the outer race, you should replace the bearings... you can't know if you scored the race or not.

[@zaknefain100]

The mechanical engineer in me wants two registered pillow blocks with 4 bolts, all accessible from the top... but that would make this process way too easy. Then again, I'm not in the jointer manufacturing business... The rhetorical aside... thanks for the video.

[@glockstar76]

I see you stepped up to a supermax drum sander,,nice

[@woodwhisperer]

Yeah. The adjustment mechanism on the Jet unit was just frustrating. Otherwise, the Jet was a top notch machine. But any time I had to make an adjustment I was pulling my hair out. Thankfully, SuperMax has made some nice innovations and the adjustments are stupid easy.

[@glockstar76]

I own a sign business and use mine every day. it works great. watching your vids always inspire me to expand my capabilities in the wood shop thank you,. Benchmark Signs and Gifts,

[@davidkuhns8389]

For most of us small-time hobbyists, all this Powermatic and Festool equipment is way out of a reasonable price range. But it certainly is nice to fantasize.

[@woodwhisperer]

Just focus on the tools and techniques instead of the brands and you'll be fine. :)

[@davidkuhns8389]

The Wood Whisperer Oh, I'm fine. And I admire the beautiful work you do in your videos. But in woodworking, as in other hobbies I have enjoyed, like golf and fly fishing, many feel the road to success lies in having the most expensive equipment, rather than practicing the proper techniques.

[@TaylerMade]

i am a professional woodworker producing one off custom pieces to order and i dont have all the fancy gear either... just ensure the tools you do have are sharp and well maintained. i have seen lots of bad results from excellent fancy machines... its all in how you use them.

[@marvinmcconoughey3547]

We built our house many years ago with budget priced second hand equipment. But it surely is enjoyable now to have better equipment, even if it is still not the very best. Upgrades can be worthwhile, depending on cost and need.

[@Justinofalltrades1]

i guess the down side to carbide inserts is that the tables need to be adjusted instead of the knives. mark why dont you get an old 16 inch oliver?

[@woodwhisperer]

Well the tables have to be adjusted with a straight knife head as well. Plus you have three blades that need to be indexed perfectly with the outfeed table. With the inserts, once the table is lined up with the head, ALL of the inserts are lined up. As for a 16" oliver, I just never came across one.

[@TaylerMade]

the outfeed table needs to be adjusted to maintain a straight cut without snipe... but also to put a slight cup in long boards for edge jointing to make split free ends. lots of reasons to adjust your tables lol

[@Goodwithwood69]

That wood is stunning, just hang it on the wall as is!

[@surendrakumar-sr7rs]

Good

[@josephbruno7454]

Amazing, not a trace of sawdust. Who cleans your shop?

[@woodwhisperer]

Clear Vue Cyclones. ;) And my step-dad helps too.:)

[@natrat51]

20 db reduction? Since a 10 db change is perceived as a doubling (or halving, if talking reduction), a 20 db reduction is simply amazing. This might be worth getting just to save your ears.

[@thomaslang7634]

that pulley should not have to be beet on their like that. in the event you have to take that apart again Polish that shaft and i.d. of the pulley. with some fine sandpaper

[@gamingSlasher]

Nice but the price was ouch. Probably Mark was sponsored in some way but for an amateur... EDIT: Read wrong and thought it was $4690. $469 with all the cutters I hope is not so bad.

[@woodwhisperer]

$4690 is more than the cost of the whole jointer, lol

[@zohranbloedjes9770]

the biggest downside on straigt knives is the people are lazy I am stil on school so wen i am on a internship an that company uses straigt knives and i notice that the are dull and i mention that to the workshop manager he is almost every time like yeah I know but i dont want to do that right now. so thats why i am always happy is when the company has planers and jointers whit terra blade,s because those are very easely an fast to replace all the new joineters and planers come whit those here in Holland. But i have never workt whit a helix cutter now i whised i payd more attention at English class

[@paulk527]

There has got to be a better way to replace those knives without taking apart the whole machine! Come on powermatic!

[@carycleland9506]

Ahh nicked that pulley didn't you.... lol

[@00dahc]

Please make a video showing the process of A) you uninstalling the Byrd cutterhead, B) shipping it to me for my PJ882

[@pencils1951]

"Take this awesome tool and make it totally more awesomer"?

[@woodwhisperer]

Yup!

[@pencils1951]

The Wood Whisperer Unabashed and unashamed, and good for you. You are Sir, a master craftsman, (bytheway, with a beautiful baby boy), but that phrase, or if you will statement, did take me somewhat aback. As an educated Englishman, American English does phase me occasionally; but I assure you there was no insult intended, just a bit of "leg pulling". Thank you for your knowledgeable and explanative narration, I have learned much from you; and for that I am truly grateful. I wish you, and your family, health, wealth, and happiness. Justin.

[@woodwhisperer]

Justin Case Hey Justin. I would think by now that you know my sense of humor. I do occasionally use improper grammar for comical effect. Even for American English that was bad.

[@pencils1951]

The Wood Whisperer Thank you "woody", I'm sorry, but I imply no judgement, and I am yet to know you better, but I will through your excellent uploads. Forgive an old man his foibles; retirement can make one recalcitrant. I wouldn't mind if I could see what the hell I'm doin' sometimes! Thank you. Justin.

[@JG0RDON24]

Radio Shack??

[@ryanjack1478]

You pervs ha ha :-)

[@AllSeeingEy3]

"the jointer beds need to be set properly, which only takes a few minutes" ...you brigand

[@garyjohanlon]

Mark I'ed rather watch paint dry and I'm not in to clowns or balloons