24 Volt Van Electrical System | 12 volt vs 24 volt Pros & Cons

[@cheryl7917]

Thanks for sharing your build knowledge and tips with everyone. You always make things super easy to understand! TNUTZ is a great place to purchase extruded aluminum. I'm so glad you mentioned them in one of your other videos. also....TNUTZ doesn't gouge you a huge amount for cutting it into specific lengths, it helps keep the length of your shipping package down, saving on shipping, your time and the mess you have to clean up after cutting the stuff. It's all win-win! Always look forward to your videos!

[@thrivans]

Glad to help.

[@chipbrown433]

I stumbled on your channel last night and watched this because 24V is my plan and the way to go. At least until things like bus bar and fuse block ratings catch up to the 48V world. The 1/0 vs 4/0 wire demonstration was great. I have to agree with you on the square ferrule crimper. I've used hex and square and square is almost always better for connections. The only exception I've seen is if the round hole you're filling is barely bigger than the wire then a hex crimp might fit where a square will not. Thanks much for the good product recommendations. I'd not seen a crimper that advertised less than 7 AWG. And that Southwire stripper looks good as well.

[@_0O0O0O0_]

Excellent walk through. Practical and technical enough to understand how AND why. Thank you.

[@TeutonicNordwind]

Good vid, Jeff. Seriously making me think about looking into this more and doing a 24v in our pending build. (based on the 24v a/c unit)

[@thrivans]

Good luck. I’m loving working with 1/0 vs 4/0 cable. That alone makes it worthwhile for me.

[@rickbartley9255]

Very helpful explanation. Thank you.

[@fredzuccarelli]

Another great...clear....concise explanation Jeff!! 👍👍

[@thrivans]

Thank you!

[@johndavid1585]

Are you ok with Victron batteries? Great vids.

[@MacGiverWorks]

Ottimo consiglio, anche io ho iniziato con i 12 volt, ho installato 580A di batteria e mi sono reso conto che per il prossimo lavoro di conversione potrò creare un sistema più efficiente perché i cavi per la 12 volt sono veramente grossi e si scaldano facilmente quando si utilizza la piastra ad induzione o condizionatore. Grazie del vostro consiglio equilibrato

[@thrivans]

Glad to hear it’s working well for you. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@darrylm3627]

😀👍Good Stuff, Great Tips

[@bgzwlz5119]

Again, some great info! I just started trying to learn all of this stuff and it is a little overwhelming. Why did you choose to go with a 24V rather than a 48V system? Most videos seem to talk about upgrading to 48V. Also, most people are going with a 2nd alternator to get faster battery charging while driving rather than two of the Orion devices. Maybe they had two Orion devices and a 2nd alternator? Why did you not go with a 2nd alternator?

[@thrivans]

A second alternator along with the regulator runs $3,500-$4,500. Two Orions combined with solar is adequate for most people. Victron does not support 48v very will at this time. When they do, we will likely start building 48v systems.

[@drewdowns3618]

Really helpful video. Can I ask why you went with the isolated version of the 12-24 Orion chargers? Pretty sure that it's fine to use either style, but from poking around online it seems like NON-isolated is more 'normal' for van builds and I believe is a bit cheaper as well. Thanks for all your great content!

[@thrivans]

Both work equally well. If you're doing a 12 volt system, I recommend using the new Orion XS 50 amp charger. It only comes in a non-isolated version.

[@drewdowns3618]

@@thrivans Thank you. Planning a 24v system. 600aH of batteries and 800w of solar. So I"ll likely go with the dual B2B chargers like you've done here.

[@ZeezaAndNomadicJack]

Always amazing videos, thank you for taking the time to help out folks. Quick question. Why battleborn batteries versus victron batteries? I'm tooling up to start my 24 volt system in my Sprinter.

[@thrivans]

Nothing against Victron batteries, we just have a good relationship with Battle Born, get great support, and we love the 10 year warranty.

[@axarothfiefa6676]

What’s the benefit of running the 24v air conditioner vs the 12? Just the wire size and expense? There’s no difference as far as efficiency running the unit, is that correct?

[@thrivans]

Smaller wire size is definitely a benefit. Also, the 24v version of the Nomadic Cooling X2 is more powerful. According to Nomadic Cooling, the 12v X2 is rated at 8,188 BTU's, while the 24v version is rated at 10,280 BTU's.

[@2o3ief]

In general a 24v appliance should be marginally more efficient but just like with the cost of wires being marginally cheaper that's probably not going to be what makes the decision for you

[@patshmear10101]

Some of the 12v units will pull 80+ amps on start up so you have to worry about that across the circuit. Going to 24v cuts the amperage in half

[@richbowie76]

Would you recommend blue locktite on the fasteners before tourqing ? EXCELLENT VIDEO !

[@thrivans]

I would not recommend using Loctite on electrical connections. It could act as an insulator, increasing resistance. All of the Victron components include a lock washer, so Loctite is not necessary.

[@richbowie76]

@@thrivans That makes sense ! THANK YOU

[@sailorcto]

I am confused. You wired in series, so you don’t have 540aH, you have 270aH at 24-volt. Right? Did you also wire the Orions in series too?

[@thrivans]

Correct. 240ah at 24V. We wire the Orions in parallel.

[@Dan645ci]

thank you for the video, i am going to 24v system as well, regarding the two orion dc to dc changer, what size wires did you use or you would recommend from the van battery to the orion?

[@Dan645ci]

also, i am only using one of the dc to dc 12v to 24v charger, thank you.

[@arielyazid1875]

Hi , thank you for the explanation. I have a question . I want to do 24v in my set up but the only appliance I’m having trouble finding is a 24v LP water heater . Any suggestions. Thanks

[@thrivans]

You can just use 12V appliances and use a Victron Orion 24v to 12v converter.

[@tymoulton3846]

Hi, quick question. What are your thoughts on the new Epoch 12V 460Ah LiFePO4 batteries for this application? I was thinking of using those instead of the battle born, would this system be able to provide adequate charging for these as well? I'm not sure if I'm missing something, but that would give me 920Ah of battery instead of Battleborn's 540Ah. Do you see any issues with going this route?

[@tymoulton3846]

I'm guessing that I would likely need 3 or 4 chargers by that logic?

[@thrivans]

According to Epoch's website, you can wire up to 4 of the 460Ah batteries in series. So yes, these would work. 920Ah is a lot to charge, so you may want to go with a secondary alternator for charging. Mercedes doesn't recommend pulling more that 80 amps from the factory alternator. Not sure about other vehicle manufacturers.

[@universeunknown1880]

Why not 48v system ?

[@orthopraxis235]

You do all of this extra work and still have a rooftop piston compressor ac for your rig? This is 2024. Mini-split.

[@Robnord1]

Yes. Let's put a mini split in each rig, remove the simple and common roof air conditioners and forced air furnaces, and go all electric !!! Then if the system needs service, only an HVAC specialist can service it rather than an owner who is handy or a common and mostly affordable RV tech. Then just like today's cars...You can't work on them anymore at home. Only the manufacturers, dealers, and pro repair specialists profit by installing mini-splits.

[@orthopraxis235]

@@Robnord1 Yeah, I stand by my comment. Mini split in my garage for more than 10 years, cleaned a few times, never needed technical service, not once. So, your factoids on that are not in fact true. Of course only manufacturers, dealers and pro repair guys are the only ones who profit by installing mini splits, because they are in the business for profit. I, as a consumer, don't expect a PROFIT, I expect value in exchange for the money I paid. Again, over 10 years of excellent value at 1/8 the cost to run the compressor a/cs for the garage. Translate that to 12.5% of the energy required for the same cooling. Now, I know its a STRETCH for you, but for everyone else, what would cooling for 87.5% less power for your RV mean in real terms? NOt running your generator much, cooling via solar and battery bank, less weight, less weight on the roof, less potential for leaks. Certainly Less noise and everyone KNOWS this. Sounds like only plusses. Further, I never mentioned removing a forced air furnace. Forced air furnaces are efficient they heat with gas, fans only run on electrcity to circulate air. You simply don't have the stones to play in this area. If your only argument is "easier to fix," then no only have you got that pretty much incorrect, but nearly every other need an RVer has is easily covered by cooling with a mini split. I get that you like to fix your stuff, kudos and so do i, but a mini split is so much more efficient and provide far more flexibility, comfort, and quiet during use.

[@kentpengelly9896]

Why not 48v

[@Robnord1]

For a certain application, at a certain point there is little advantage to boosting voltage even higher. Like how skinny do you need your RV wiring to be? In e-bikes and e-motors in hybrids, going 48VDC or higher is worth it because their motors like it better than 12 or 24. Why not 120 VDC? Who knows? Maybe in 2040.

[@Kimberlyworks-ps2wm]

I buy their fuses, but I hate that color blue. Seeing it daily would annoy me. I wish they made them in other colors. Black and/or white is universal. They would get more customers just by having other colors.

[@Robnord1]

In reality, they are marketing geniuses rolling in huge profits. Instant brand recognition is why the distinctive bright sky blue color in every item they sell. Then they flood the KZbinr RVers with product at discounts so 90% of videos are filled with their overpriced and over rated blue products !

[@glennbeattie6172]

Dude build a cabinet what a giant waste of space. 60 amps is a lot of draw for most alternators. What are you using 1ot for, max power is 100 amps 2gauge wire is sufficient. No electrians here.

[@thrivans]

Wrong and wrong. 60 amps is less than 30% of alternator’s capacity. The battery bank can put out around 300 amps, which calls for 1/0 wire.

[@glennbeattie6172]

@OurThrivingLife well you're right about 30% of course. Yes. I my experience it's still taxing on the engine, but I am old. I have seen alot of broken belts in my time. I sorry am using your time... But really all combined 300amps? Isn't max used or charged way under 200amps. You got some giant electric heater in this system? I see such overkill with wiring and fusing in van builds. It's not great. Obviously your not new. I am a super big fan of victron, I program my own battery profile. I use lithium batteries out of a Chevy Bolt. You know the ones you said burn up in your video.

[@Robnord1]

@@glennbeattie6172 All of these van and RV electric builds are over the top these days Glenn. Now, if you're not max solar, the latest batteries, and an array of pretty mix and match blue components, you're an antique! How e-energy dependent the modern 'camper' is. what next? 100A shore power cords?

[@americannumber2]

0 advantages for 12v system 0