$25 eBay Carbide insert parting tool vs Kennametal and Sumitomo at 3000rpm

This tool parting steel is at • $25 eBay parting tool ...
For great casting videos try ‪@olfoundryman8418‬
It was suggested to me that a $25 parting tool including 10 inserts from eBay was quite good. I am not a great believer in cheap tools being cost effective, but I bought one anyway so I could make a comparison video. My main parting tools for my small cnc lathe are a Sumitomo 2.0 wide insert with a maximum parting diameter of 20mm and a Kennametal 1.6 wide 41mm maximum parting diameter. I don't attempt to part any diameter larger than that. These tools cost up to $125 each and the inserts are around $15 each double ended. But for me they work and that is what counts. Many thousands of parts and they have never let me down. Parting takes place when the rest of the process is finished, it is not the time to have things go wrong and ruin the part. That is definitely not cost effective.
With small parts, I typically part non ferrous parts at 3000 rpm with feeds of 0.02 to0.07 mm/rev. For steel the spindle rpm gets lower, but they still work great. In the video each tool takes a facing cut, a turning cut and 2 parting cuts. Material is 20ø alloy 2011 machining grade aluminium. Speed is 3000rpm, and the feed is 0.05mm /rev. Insert codes are as follows: Ebay parting tool 1.5 wide insert MGMN150-G Kennametal 1.6 wide insert A2016N00CF01 Sumitomo 2.0 wide GF type insert GCMN2002-GF Cutting speeds as for GF Non Ferrous 150/300, actually used 190m/min After trying this cheap carbide insert parting tool from eBay, I am pretty sure it must be far better than using a High Speed Steel parting blade.

[@MrADVANCEDTEK]

I was wanting to find out about what was a good parting tool, I was so excited but when you starting saying it goes to 20 you lost me so I watched it again and now I have more questions. Like at the :57 mark titled "1.5 wide 2 edges 26mmo max" with no instance of a reaffirming to whatever the measurements are they can do without a metric. Then do it again at the 1:37 mark wirth the Kennametal whatever tool that is being made.

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi, in each case I am referring to the maximum diameter at which the tool can part off. Ebay is about 26mm dia, Sumitomo is 20 diameter and the Kennametal is 41 mm diameter At 0.57 when I refer to 2 edges, which I must admit was not very clear, I was referring to the double ended insert which has 2 cutting edges. The Sumitomo is also double ended and has 2 cutting edges, the Kennametal insert has only one cutting edge. If I can help clarify anything else please ask. Thank you for your comment

[@DIYGuitarMods]

This demo was super helpful for me. I'm going to order the Sumitomo. Re-watching this again, after finding myself thinking," what was that slick, Japanese parting tool in that youtube video?". I love the technique you do, rough grooving everything and directly to finish profiling. I've been getting my own little CNC lathe working well and it's time to upgrade parting tools. Super helpful my man! liked & subscribed

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Ian

[@tlbstickman]

I tried those same Ebay tool holders and inserts and they worked great for me, even on 316 stainless. The tool and 10 inserts for about $20 bucks - nice!

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Mark, thanks for your comment.

[@rocketbob]

link?

[@craigwalker3256]

I love your videos!! Great stuff thanks for making them!!

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Craig

[@kisspeteristvan]

for how bad it looks it actually worked OK . One starts to wonder why the others need to charge 10 times as much . We all know they are better , but not 10 times better .

[@smallcnclathes]

10 times does seem a bit over the top. When I look at the different inserts available for parting from Sumitomo it is easy to see they have worked at making various design chip breakers that suit grooving and or parting off or actually profiling. I use a GF for parting and an ML for when I need to use the tool to cut sideways. They look quite different. When I was working, I liked that I knew what these tools would do and that they would not let me down. I was willing to pay for this I guess.

[@BestKiteboardingOfficial]

Wages, tax, Insurance, quality of employees life, R and D....

[@smallcnclathes]

@BestKiteboardingOfficial I really think R&D would be huge. Sumitomo have a number of different parting insert designs. Ranging from low cutting force parting to inserts for profiling. Thanks for your comment

[@jf7393]

Nope they almost certainly work 99% as good, and for many people that’s probably good enough. If you have to ask whether or not cheap Chinese tooling will limit you then the answer is likely no

[@RotarySMP]

Good comparison video. I have a couple of these aliexpress specials, and have also been pretty happy with them.

[@smallcnclathes]

I have ordered a 2.0 from Aliexpress to see what it is like.

[@DimaProk]

I didn't think these parting tools were capable of facing cuts! This parting tool I bought from Aliexpress was around 12 bucks and is much better then the other cheap alternatives. Mine didn't have overhang and the finish is much better, its also silver rather then black. This is my 2nd one, the 1st one was black and it got mangled pretty bad during one parting. Once I figured out the secret why inserts break, I don't go through inserts as much and I am quite happy. The secret is don't run it all the way to the center, when you're almost there just put a piece of wood or plastic between the toolpost and workpiece and the bending pressure will break off the piece. With aluminum or brass that is not necessary and I don't mind doing a facing cut because parting steel I doubt even expensive tools will leave a nice even flat surface.

[@smallcnclathes]

Deep facing cuts can only be taken with inserts that are single ended. Double ended inserts rub on the face with the edge that is not in use. Thank you for your comment. Nigel

[@joell439]

👍👍😎👍👍. Thanks for the lesson and supervising results.

[@MF175mp]

I use the MGGN150 insert with a heavy back rake. Helps on steel.

[@MF175mp]

The Aliexpress sellers sell dozens of different combinations of chipbreaker type and carbide grade. Some of them are semi decent but the ones that are included with a holder are the cheapest possible I imagine

[@KravchenkoAudioPerth]

Missed this one! And consider me educated a little more. Thanks! Mark

[@smallcnclathes]

You did not miss this one, I thought you missed the last one, can’t recall you leaving a comment as you usually do. As always nice to hear from you. If this sounds stupid, it is because I thought it was a comment on my latest video released last night! LOL

[@YooProjects]

Great review mate. Thanks 👍💫👍

[@smallcnclathes]

Thank you, did you see the video of the same tool parting steel?

[@AaronEngineering]

Hey Nigel. A good comparison video mate. To be honest, not bad results for $25 mate. Thanks for showing us. Cheers 🍻, Aaron

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Aaron

[@85CEKR]

I use iscars TAG inserts in the square coolant thru blades, buts that's on a full size cnc lathe.

[@smallcnclathes]

Tried coolant, found it was more trouble than it was worth. Maintenance took too much time, wet swarf was a pain, just not worth the effort. Thanks for your comment.

[@MrPhilxxxxx]

Thanks for sharing this video!

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Philipp

[@greatdane3343]

Great video. Thanks for the info.

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks for your comment

[@tomnwoo]

Fantastic video as always.

[@smallcnclathes]

Thank You

[@tomnwoo]

@@smallcnclathes and it seems to be getting a half decent view count...

[@smallcnclathes]

@@tomnwoo better than I have done for a while thanks.

[@freestyla101]

Short and sweet. Loved the video. I can’t go back to hss. The cut is far superior with carbide, and a lot less worrying because if it lets go it just breaks an insert.

[@smallcnclathes]

I agree completely. I don't believe the HSS will give a better finish, carbide is so fine grained these days. Of course in my case, totally not applicable for production work. I have one HSS tool and I use it to create chamfers in my manual lathe. I have spent enough on holders and inserts to find buying a neutral holder and square insert just a bit more than I want spend, particularly as it would get almost no use. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. Nigel

[@tinnedanger]

@@smallcnclathes I don't just break the insert. I break the damn holder as well. Parting is the bane of my machining.😛

[@smallcnclathes]

@@tinnedanger take heart from the fact you are not alone!

[@KW-ei3pi]

Good to see "open mindedness" on this subject. Thank you for posting. It would be good to note that you are testing two different things here. The insert for one, and the insert holder for the other. This is important because you could have one part of the equation good and the other bad, or both good or both bad. Personally, I find the imported insert holders are sufficient to very good for insert tooling, though a parting tool holder would be the most critical of all insert tooling holders. One the other hand, "no brand" import inserts are usually junk. Than being said, "name brand" inserts like Korloy and Deskar are very good quality in comparison, in my experience. Thanks

[@smallcnclathes]

Thank you for your thoughtful comment

[@GaryForgingOn]

Nice video. :) I did laugh out loud when you mentioned falling asleep while editing. LOL I learned some more good tips on machining as well.

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Gary, I do try to keep things moving along. In this case, I got it wrong in the planning and was making one too many parts. You don’t really see it until it all comes together in the video and then I could see the third part being made was overkill. So it went on the cutting room floor so it speak! I appreciate your comments, it is good to have them arrive from a non machinist person.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Well that didn’t hurt as much as I thought it would and thanks so much for an honest review. I’m just a hobbyist so I use my lathe to do things for my self and not to make a living which means expensive tooling is just not an option for me and probably many others as well. I also have a BP clone milling machine and again budget tools get the job done I just don’t get the high end finish that I see multi million dollar CNC machines producing. Im also not a machinist so I don’t have the technical know how of feeds, speeds and tool face angles but I get what I need done. Cheers Stuart.

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Stuart, I well understand the hobbyist point of view now I have retired. I have to admit the cheap parting tool did impress me, just so much cheaper than my other tools. Thanks for your comment, did you see the follow up video where it cuts steel?

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

@@smallcnclathes No I didn’t but I will look it up. Thanks

[@smallcnclathes]

@@scroungasworkshop4663 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnuwcoewm7yqias

[@tjurzyk]

Usually main difference, between cheep and expensive inserts, is in quantity of cuts before quality goes down. So as kind of a hobbyist myself i think it's reasonable to buy cheap holders, and middle price inserts.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

@@tjurzyk Good advice, thanks 👍👍👍

[@tinnedanger]

I have the awesome skill of destroying insert parting tools. Believe it or not my most succesfull parting tool is made out of a power hacksaw blade. I have no tool holder for that blade so it's jammed in the tool post with shims and G-clamps. Works every time.

[@nicolaschampagne8988]

thank you for that video. it will be usefull

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Nicholas, well I hope so. I hope that most of my videos are helpful in some way. Thanks for your comment, I appreciate it. Nigel

[@Erik_Blomgren]

I run a full size dual spindle/revolver lathe at work, never use any non-brand names, but i run both some Kennametal and some Sumitomo tools, although i mostly run Sandvik Coromant tools. I haven't seen that many people use Sumitomo tools before, but from my experience they are really good precision tools. I generally think Sumitomo cuts better, and leaves nicer surface finishes than Kennametal, although they are a bit more fragile, you break the tip easier. Kennametal inserts are more durable from what I've tested, so they're both good, just at different things. Sandvik is a good compromise that lands somewhere in the middle between Sumitomo and Kennametal :)

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks Erik, I started with Sandvik, but they were too pricey by comparison with Sumitomo and my Sumitomo representative has been really great.

[@Erik_Blomgren]

Yeah the Sumitomo tools are really great, they should be proud of the quality their tools and inserts have, especially for the decent price as you say. The advantage with Sandvik for me is that i live in Sweden, and have a Sandvik dealer in the next town from here, so when i order tools from there they usually arrive the next day already, if not the same day! Sumitomo and Kennametal take a week at least to arrive. I also saw your video on the HSS parting blades, great video! Although i don't quite agree. Of course the HSS blades have no place on a CNC lathe at all, I've only used it once in the CNC when i was turning a long thin plastic part, but on a manual lathe i think HSS blades are great! Once you've learned how to grind them nicely they part like a dream! I don't claim to grind them perfect, I'm only 19 yo so i have a lot to learn, but i like the HSS especially in less sturdy conditions, that's where it shines, because you can get it to cut nicely without putting a lot of forces on the workpiece, run slow with some lube and take light cuts and it will both cut great and make nice chips! Best regards from Sweden!

[@smallcnclathes]

@@Erik_Blomgren Hi Erik,the introduction of the cheap Chinese mini lathes, has meant there are lots of folks out there that have no clue about how to drive a lathe. I think HSS parting tools are best left to those that know what they are doing. Even though you are just 19, if you can use them you obviously have acquired a good deal of skill in their use. I am a draftsman with little machining skills so I stay well away from HSS. Thank you for taking the time to leave these comments, it is much appreciated.

[@MSM5500]

It seems to me you should try *H01* (MGMN150 H01) inserts which are for soft non-ferrous metals since you cut aluminium. They've got very positive rake as they should and different chip breaker to what your inserts have. I haven't used H01 on lathe but milling machine only and have to say they give qite shiny surface finishing on 6061 alloy.

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi, I bought some inserts awhile ago that may be the ones you are talking about. Just have not got around to testing and making a video, yet. It was some time ago now but I will check their designation. Thanks for your comment

[@davidfarmer]

always good content. I have an emco pc turn 50 that i've made a new 5c air collet headstock for, and the part tool started getting on my nerves. ive only broken an insert twice, but the clamping screw is only accessible by removing the entire tool from the turret. so i bought a friction fit parting tool holder to replace it. it uses gtn-2 inserts, iscar makes some decent ones. the holder is a cheap amazon one, but it was the only one i could find without a clamping screw and a half inch shank. iscar makes the same holder, i think im going to splurge and order one.

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi David, are you talking about a tool holder that uses spring tension of the holder to fix the insert in place? I have one of those by Tegutech and it works quite well, uses a tool to hold the tool apart to remove the inserts.

[@davidfarmer]

@@smallcnclathes sort of. its more of a wedge fit. its the iscar sgth self grip

[@ashcustomworks]

I use a similar cheapo one and it's quite good, but for two problems. The fake Korloy inserts are quite fragile, so they often break before they wear out. The square cutting edge means there is always a burr on the part that is not always easy to remove. I'd prefer to have inserts with a RH angle to the cutting edge like you'd grind on an HSS parting tool, but haven't found any yet.

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi, thanks for your comment, if you have a look at my last video, you will see I make good use of a really sharp rh insert

[@ashcustomworks]

Thanks, that's exactly what I'm looking for. The parts I'm making are very similar to yours too.

[@smallcnclathes]

@@ashcustomworks I made 400 of those parts, that parting tool made such a difference to the deburring of the holes. Sumitomo, not cheap but works brilliantly.

[@nutterknoll69]

I did notice that your ebay tool was a fair way below centre height, which may have effected it's performance, ie. chipping. It could be you should have filed the top of the tool instead of the bottom? Well made video though. I enjoyed it.🙂

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks for your comment. You may be right, but I would expect an insert to be level with the top of the tool rather than the bottom.

[@bobmazzi7435]

@@smallcnclathes Some of us still play with setting up Aloris tool holders. I will mention that your video prompted me to buy one of these to play with. 12 usd after shipping and tax with four inserts. Which for my little Habegger "hobby" lathe should do me for years of use.

[@nickking8317]

Might get me a couple for my 2 lathes the ward 2 a and my visby should be ok for starting out tho thanks for the video

[@smallcnclathes]

You might as well try them, not a lot of money to lose if you are not happy with them. One recent comment mentioned the inserts are not material specific, which is true. However they worked ok for me in aluminium and steel as showed in the follow up video. Thanks for your comment, Nigel

[@nickking8317]

@@smallcnclathes I’ve worked in the industry for a bit still do just starting my own gig

[@gwheyduke]

I could make 25mm pistons with one of those tools! Wonder if you could use it to cut cooling fins in a piece of 12L14 Steel?

[@smallcnclathes]

It was suggested testing on steel might be a good idea. I may try some S1214 doing what I did here in this video. Don't have 12L14. might try to get it uploaded by Monday. Why do you need 25mm pistons???

[@ebrewste]

Veranda? What is nice term for that mis-machined feature :)

[@smallcnclathes]

Thank You

[@MyTubeSVp]

Parting is a nightmare. It wouldn’t be the first time I wake up in sweats in the middle of the night dreaming about cracking inserts and bending holders ... 🥵

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Stefan, I am fortunate in that I can choose what materials I work with. Brass, aluminium, plastics, machining grade steel are about it. Although 4140 has come up a couple of times. Staying within my usual materials has allowed me to lose no sleep whatsoever. Using carbide inserts has for me been quite a revelation, as I never did well with HSS parting plates.

[@gerritvisser]

I learned the hard way to check my spindle bearings. I bought a used lathe, prev owner 'had been in there'. Once properly tensioned I part with no pucker factor. A solid tool post helps as well, the spindle bearings were the last step.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Nigel, A good review... I guess maybe some of the extra cost for the expensive tooling is repeatability, in as much that 99.9% of the tools are the same and the cheaper eBay ones might be a little hit and miss... See you on the next one... Take care. Paul,,

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Paul, I think as much as anything buying top quality tools inspires confidence and if ever there is a process that you need to go well it is parting off. Very easy for things to go bang when parting off and of course this is the point at which the part is finished, this is not where one wants to turn the work piece into scrap. So I paid the prices that I indicated and got on with making many thousands of parts. The only variation I made was to buy inserts that would cut going sideways for the 2.0 Sumitomo tool. This was to prove they worked for a friend in the UK with a Hercus like mine but without the turret. He uses that Sumitomo tool for all his brass parts and does all the turning and parting with the one tool.

[@nickp4793]

Nice job. How parallel is the faced off part for each parting tool?

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Nick, results are usually pretty good with face being flat. I mostly use neutral inserts which do not tend to wander making for a dished face. Is that what you were asking?

[@nickp4793]

@@smallcnclathes Awesome. I've only used HSS parting tools hand ground on a manual lathe, and it was rarely good enough to make a flat surface. Thanks for the info.

[@deanneufell3284]

I bought some from bangood chinese site......can not wait to try them. I also purchased boring bars (left/right) that takes the same size insert as the cutoff tools.

[@smallcnclathes]

So the boring bars are really internal grooving tools?

[@deanneufell3284]

@@smallcnclathes yes....i will use them also as cutoff tools. I have a small gang slide Yang sml12 cnc lathe.

[@smallcnclathes]

@@deanneufell3284 If you do that, won't the cut off part fall onto the tool?

[@deanneufell3284]

@@smallcnclathes no....use the tool on the outside diameter. I machine mostly small parts. Insert sticks out .187 so anything up to .375 diameter.

[@smallcnclathes]

Understood and of course with gang tools that is perfect,

[@twooldfartsinanrv7137]

Good compare of tools. Only problem I see is your tools are not on center line. That does affect you finish and chip removal.

[@smallcnclathes]

Well the Sumitomo was on centre, the Kennametal was a bit low and the eBay one needed more metal removed than I was prepared to undertake. The ebay one had to be filed to fit in my turret and it needed more removed to pack it up to the right height. I was not prepared to do any more to the ebay tool than what I did. I did not like having to file it down to fit the turret, but if I had not there would have been no video as I could not use it.

[@johnnycab8986]

Chips aren't exiting as well on the cheap insert because there is a lot more coolant being used. Cheap inserts seem to perform well at first but quickly degrade to uselessness vs. high dollar ones. Maybe a test comparing cost efficiency of that would be good.

[@smallcnclathes]

I don’t make enough parts these days to contemplate attempting a test like that. Thank you for the comment

[@paradiselost9946]

with the cheap inserts... be wary, and inspect. had two boxes show up with little nibs of flashing on the bottom seating groove. ie, they wont seat in teh holder! quick nip on the diamond wheel to pop it off... and then the inserts are crap anyway.

[@smallcnclathes]

Fortunately I have enough good ones in Sumitomo and Kennametal to out last me. LOL

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

2011 being a free-machining alloy, is very forgiving...I wonder how this tool would hold up on steel... 🤔

[@smallcnclathes]

Strange you should mention that, you are not alone others asked too so I made a follow up video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnuwcoewm7yqias

[@ganzeytyler]

Have you tried one of the name brand inserts in the cheap tool holder? Seems like a good compromise. Couple minutes with a file and some decent inserts and it should be good?

[@smallcnclathes]

Sumitomo inserts are 21mm long, eBay inserts are 16mm long, so I don't think your idea will work. Thanks for the idea though. Nigel

[@ganzeytyler]

​@@smallcnclathesdo you think sumitomo insert GCMN150005-GF-AC530U would fit in the ebay tool holder?

[@smallcnclathes]

@@ganzeytyler I have ebay inserts 2.0wide and GF inserts at 2.0 wide. I don't have any GF in 1.5 wide. I would assume the Sumitomo at 1.5 wide would be longer than the 1.5 ebay insert based on what I see in the 2.0 wide inserts. The 2.0 GF I have is 21.3mm long the 2.0 wide ebay insert is 16.0mm long and I just measured the ebay 1.5 wide insert and it is the same at 16.0mm long. I checked the catalogue and the 1.5 wide GF insert is 17.3mm long. It will protrude out from the holder more than is intended. I also have no idea if the ebay tool vee grooves will match the GF insert. I hope I am keeping this understandable?

[@smallcnclathes]

Not sure if I mentioned it in the video but the Sumitomo holder is brilliant. I have to shorten all my tools to fit my turret. Usually a hacksaw will do, that tool needed the angle grinder. Very difficult to drill with a HSS drill it is a very strong tool.

[@hikolanikola8775]

would always go with 5 ebay tools and 100 inserts then 1 expensive tool and no inserts, its not like the expensive tool is 5 times better as much as it's more expensive

[@smallcnclathes]

Now I have retired I would agree. However when I was working Idid not mind paying for good tools. Not 5 times better but enough of an improvement to make the expense worthwhile. You order something and know what you are getting, ebay can be a lucky dip as to what you actually get. Thank you for your comment. Nigel

[@hibahprice6887]

It's even cheaper on Aliexpress. + a bunch of different plates. Particularly razor sharp on aluminum

[@smallcnclathes]

It may be cheaper, but I find Aliexpress hard to navigate. I find eBay easier to use. Thanks for your comment

[@jakobwhaley5641]

Those cutters are still better than all our parters sadly

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Jakob, if the ebay cutters are better than yours, why is that so?

[@FATxAZZxGONExCRAZZZY]

Having worked in a machine shop were the owner were so stingy with tooling that all but the toughest jobs were done with cheap china inserts i can say that you can get great results with them. However you will have to get used to diagnose problems fast and often because the production standard and QC can be a bit spotty. I found it funny that you comment on how ebay chips isnt coming flying out like the two others after you note on the brand tools having dips to make the chips curl inwards (and thus smaller width then the groove).

[@smallcnclathes]

Thanks for your comment

[@landlifem5872]

I'm quite surprised with the performance of that tool. Would be interesting if someone did a similar video with them on steel.

[@smallcnclathes]

Does S1214 qualify as steel?

[@landlifem5872]

@@smallcnclathes indeed it does, my mind was more thinking 4140, but yeah.

[@smallcnclathes]

I have seen the size of the lathes you have driven so the 4140 suggestion does not surprise me. Neither would it have surprised those lathes. 4140 is not nice to machine when all you have at your disposal is a whopping 1/2 hp. 4140 can be most unforgiving when one is not used to machining it. Getting the right speed/feed is important for most materials but I have found that with 4140 and my set up, speed/feed is critical and I have to admit I ran out of patience with it before I got it right. I had other work to be getting on with and 4140 was such a rare material for me I just let it go and stopped worrying about it. So I can honestly say, it will not be the subject of a parting video from me. I think I can find some S1214 at 20ø in the shed so to run a few parts would not be an issue. Although I have to admit with the low view count my videos get these days the whole thing is hardly worthwhile. I am supposed to have almost 5k subs and it takes around a month for a video to get to 1k views and it sits at that for ages. Makes no sense to me.

[@landlifem5872]

@@smallcnclathes I used to think 4350 was hard going, until we started inconel , then machining 4140 was like butter. Yeah a lot of people sub, but never watch. For me I don't mind, I do what interests me, or if someone wants to see something I try to accommodate that. I think when some channels try to chase the maximum views, they sort of loose their "soul" of the channel, and that's what makes them interesting in the first place. But that's just my opinion, and everyone has one, ;)

[@tnor90]

Hello! We have some MGEHR 2020-2.0 tools in our workshop, we are using them on CK6136i, and HAAS TL-1 CNC lathes. The inserts are come from china too (aliexpress). We mostly using them to part off stainless steels, 1.4305 (ASA 303), 1.4034 (Böhler N540, ASA 420C as I know), they working perfectly, however they are not good as a genuine Iscar or Ceratizit (or any other big brand) tools, but the 20 pcs insert and 1pc holder bundle costs around 3-4 pcs of big brand inserts, so they absolutely worth the price. Moreover there are very cheap PCD inserts for this tools, which we are using for glass or carbon reinforced plastics (PEEK CF30 and GF30, PA6.6 GF25 etc.), with a very good lifetime, about 10-15 times more than a standard carbide tool.

[@fusionsvt00]

"it's really ruff, let's face it" I would like to see a video of the tool marks cleaned up then:)

[@smallcnclathes]

I am not sure what you mean?

[@joemendyk9994]

He thought you were actually going to face it(milling machine)...🙂

[@bubbatennessee7531]

The ebay deal is $25, I got it, but how much is that Kennametal and and Sumitomo tool ? Care to mention ?

[@smallcnclathes]

Both are around $125 aud, now I have retired that seems a lot, but when I was working it was good value. They never let me down and low cutting force inserts were available for both. With a massive half horsepower at my disposal this was important. eBay inserts never seemed to offer a choice of insert. Choice may be better now. I have no issue talking about the cost of these tools because they just worked and when you try to make parts to sell with a little lathe you need all the help you can get. Thanks for your comment.

[@spicyandroid2933]

I’m turning brass at work and I have a different tool for part off and cutting the off. Is this tool good for brass to

[@smallcnclathes]

I have not tried it on brass, but I would expect to work on brass as well as it does on aluminium. I would surprised if it did not work

[@spicyandroid2933]

Thank you I’ll try it today.

[@smallcnclathes]

Did it work ok?

[@spicyandroid2933]

@@smallcnclathes I did not have a chance to work on it today. I’m learning to use a hass mill at the same time and using fusion 360

[@smallcnclathes]

@@spicyandroid2933 No worries, just thought I would ask. let me know how it goes when you get to try it.

[@sandorberencsi3617]

More such videos than this! Sometime the cheaper is better, (or same) but not always!!

[@smallcnclathes]

You are quite correct. Thank you for your comment

[@MarioGoatse]

"Has a little verandah" Some Americans might be confused with that one!

[@smallcnclathes]

Why is that?

[@MarioGoatse]

@@smallcnclathes Verandah is a British/Aussie word that's not commonly used elsewhere. Americans would probably call it a Porch. I've seen it a few times with Americans wondering what the F a verandah is!

[@Mac-mu9cs]

Why do the ebay and Kennametal seemed cutters appear to be not centered?

[@smallcnclathes]

Not sure, high or low do you think?

[@smallcnclathes]

Just had a look, they do look a bit off. That turret has no tool height adjustment and has 10mm slots for 10mm tools so not a lot of room to adjust it. To be honest I don't worry about it. I have raised the whole turret in the past but this seems to suit most of my tools

[@russellhayward2359]

Strange my comments seem to disappear, I was trying to send you a link for aluminium grade inserts I use on the same tool. 😁

[@smallcnclathes]

Not me making them disappear, I wonder if it was because you included a link?

[@russellhayward2359]

@@smallcnclathes yes I imagine so, do you have an email I can send the link to?

[@smallcnclathes]

No need, I have the link already as your comment came through on my email. Followed the link, was surprised the inserts did not look that different. I was expecting to see an insert that looked sharper.

[@russellhayward2359]

@@smallcnclathes they are much sharper than the standard insert that comes with the tool, I find parting much easier, and much less tool pressure on all metals I part 🙂 of course they are cheap, but that's ok for me with my little hobby shop 😁

[@GTRliffe]

the Chinese are doing great things today compared too a decade ago it’s just scary how cheap and functional these things are I can just see everything go there in the short future what is the west too do when this happens?

[@mesikamoto]

In my experience chinese tools are fine. The only drawback is that they dont last very long. Running production one name brand insert last 3-4 chinese inserts.

[@smallcnclathes]

A friend would use only Sandvik on one particular job. The inserts cost more than any other supplier but they out lasted anything else saving a good deal of down time. Thanks for your comment

[@arvincarbon3355]

Nice video ,but it's better to use right work piece material, because obviously insert grade are not intended for non ferrous material.

[@smallcnclathes]

That is how the set came from ebay. Not my usual parting setup. Did another video same tools cutting steel.

[@SQ_og]

You have a link, all.the ones I see are straight not with the curve.

[@smallcnclathes]

All I see on ebay these days are straight, only see with the curve on aliexpress

[@SQ_og]

What price is it I searched on the part number and they are all straight.

[@smallcnclathes]

@@SQ_og they seem to make them straight or curved with no change in the part number. I can’t find it today but I saw a photo of two tools in silver finish on ali yesterday while searching something else

[@SQ_og]

@@smallcnclathes There are a few in 3.0 that are curved.

[@smallcnclathes]

@@SQ_og the tools with the curve do seem to be out of fashion at the moment. They sacrifice rigidity for depth of groove.

[@hekmatullahrahimy4231]

Good nformation

[@smallcnclathes]

Thank you for your comment

[@gangleweed]

You can't beat a parting tool upside down in a rear tool post..

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Ian, many folks recommend that approach, but I have never needed it. For me it would be a pain always having to program to avoid a tool at the back. Thanks for your comment.

[@Pushyhog]

link on ebay

[@smallcnclathes]

I will look, but doubt if it is still valid. yep, no longer available

[@seimela]

Ebay means made isln China ❤

[@bill...9566]

Better to buy Japanese than American

[@smallcnclathes]

Not getting into that argument. Kennametal had the largest diameter parting tool with a 10x10 shank. My turret will only take 10x10