Cheap VS Expensive Tool Holders and Inserts

[@robert574]

Run the cutoff slightly above center and it should be ok. It's a little below center now and when it passes under the center at the end of the cut, the stock rolls over the point and I think it pulls the bit out.

[@tumbleweeeeeed]

I use cheap chinese turning and parting carbides all the time in my ancient Boxford (South Bend) belt-drive, and they hold up fine. You just have to be bold regarding spindle speed (I wouldn't even run a HSS tool as slow as we see in this video), and then then tailor your cut and feed rate to what your particular lathe is comfortable with. Anything under an inch in diameter, and you should probably be running just about as fast as your old belt-drive lathe will go. So long as your carbide tip isn't sparking, you are OK. Note also, Its the slow surface speed that's giving you that tangle of swarf.

[@RuianCarbidetools]

Good at purchase, find the competitive products instead of high price products is the point to reduce your cost at production😮❤

[@davidcashin9194]

I have an ISCAR parting blade and you have to set the insert by giving it a tap with a soft face hammer or they will pop out as well so I would give it another try. Dave

[@taiwanluthiers]

I don't really think the Shars insert is that bad. You can always grind the relief in if you want it (but I haven't found them to be necessary to be honest with you). Also you might want more than 400 RPM with carbide inserts... more like 1000 or so.

[@nicholaskillmeier4895]

Very cool comparison man. Thanks for the info. I think I'll get the Shars tool holder. If the relief angle is an issue, I'll just grind it and still save $50

[@BasementShopGuy]

Greg that 400 RPM zone is causing some of the trouble. I've found with my 13" that the RPMs just aren't there to realize the (full) potential, when using carbide inserts. The #1 reason I bought a gear-head lathe, sigh...

[@pierresgarage2687]

In order to use carbide and avoid chipping corners, you need to use cutting speeds from 400 to 600 SFM for most common steel and double that for aluminum, otherwise it will cost you so much more than HSS, and you rarely ever get expected results...

[@jimjaco4210]

400 to 600 is a good start for quality inserts. for the off brand cheap ones I would probably start 250 to 500. It also helps to have the right chipbreaker on the insert for roughing or finishing.

[@pierresgarage2687]

jim jaco Good appropriate precisions...!!!

[@andreviviers1770]

Pierre's Garage sale

[@davidchadderton5746]

Pierre's Garage iiii

[@shaunshepherd6227]

The parting tool slot is tapered so the insert needs tapped in with a soft mallet

[@the56bear]

Nice demo, with content appropriate for us homeshop guys, since we don't all have 20hp lathes. I've been gradually upgrading my tooling also as I learn. Thanks

[@ScotsFurian]

Your parting off blade insert needs to be tapped in securly with a block of wood or mallet. Just a couple of light taps should do it. Just enough to cause the jaws to spring apart causing a clamping action on the insert !

[@RuianCarbidetools]

Experts😊

[@bobaloo2012]

A perfect example of why not to use carbide on small lathes. You needed to be running at least 4-5X as fast as you were, with deep cuts, to break a chip with those inserts and get a decent finish. Sharp HSS will work a lot better for you.

[@DSCKy]

I've got a Shars cutoff similar to that one... insert has never fallen out, but I have broken a few of them... probably as they got dull or I was a bit off center.

[@keldsor]

Hi ! The insert falls out because you're too low AND run too far passed the center, I think.

[@jostouw4366]

yep always keep just above centre to avoid pull out and clamping the blade often restores grip

[@ww321]

I'm still using the parting tool blade I got from enco 25 years ago. Same inserts as the Shars but i usually use the angle cut ones

[@ShevillMathers]

Like your Wimshurst machine, built one in the 60's and added an electric motor with huge bell jars as capacitors-a lot of fun.

[@martinszinbergs2073]

I recently bought a VMC. These machines force one to learn feeds and speeds. Transferring that knowledge to my manual machining has been rewarding. I'd recommend you investigate the published feeds and speeds of your tools and use them as a starting point for your evaluations. So for your test, assuming a 1in dia. work piece turning @400 rpm I get about 100sfm . Ummm... that's way too low. That's probably why you are getting lousy surface finishes and the tools aren't working for you.

[@DKNguyen3.1415]

Sometimes I want the manual lathe read out to list the feed in real time as I turn the wheels so I have an easier time punching things into the CNC lathe.

[@duobob]

I don't really think a SB 9 can test inserted tooling very well. Sure, it can use them, and they are more convenient as well as more expensive than HSS, but with no performance gain. You needed at least twice the speeds that you were using in the video to get good results with carbide. With a small, less powerful lathe like that you are better off using HSS. Much cheaper, too, a HSS tool bit will last indefinitely, just need to keep them honed. I have never used carbide cutoff tools and have never had a problem. I do have a few old brazed carbide cutoff tools in case I need to cut off something harder, haven't needed them yet... Not complaining, good video as usual, Greg!

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

I set mine up in my vise and use a nylon faced hammer to wrap them into place , the insert should sit right back in the slot. I have managed to break a holder , had a part move in the chuck and the insert dug in so not the the fault of the tool in the machine but the fault of the tool driving the machine!!! I have a set of warner threading tools but use the HSS inserts the only gripe i have with them is it is so damned expensive to get them shipped to Australia ! Good to see you again !

[@TractorWrangler01]

You were running the cut off tool below center. That's why it pulled the insert out.

[@smallcnclathes]

I find that with the aluminium inserts, if it won't chip, I need to halve the doc and double the feed. The feed rate makes a big difference to how the insert will create chips. At that diameter I would run the spindle at around 2500rpm.

[@kenzpenz]

Great video. We have the same lathe, so the info you presented here is exactly what I need. My Shars cutoff tool popped like a twig on the first attempt. Maybe because I was pushing it a bit hard. I too use the AR Warner tools and they work great. Nice to see you back on scene. Ken ...Marina CA (formerly from Mass : ) .

[@meocats]

looking forward to more tool demonstrations. its important for machinists to watch these to avoid getting suckered into buying a defective tool -- either by design or by manufacturing error.

[@meocats]

my recommendation for cheap and solid parting tool with carbide: get one that locks with a screw, MGEHR. i have it, it doesn't fuck up. I also have it in 8mm width iscar brand, and 2mm chinese brand. Same good design, so go with the chinese unless you got a good deal at a flea market. The chinese insert is not likely to go obsolete, unlike the brand name companies which constantly changes the inserts for no fucking reason but to force companies to buy each iteration of the design. the insert is MGMN , its 2 sided. Example MGMN-200 on ebay is 2mm wide. MGMN is the iso/ansi standard generic shape, so its not likely to require a weird holder and not likely to change in the future. The price is like, 20USD for a pack of inserts, 10USD for the holder. shipped. i looked at the prices just now, MGEHR1212 (12x12 shank, aka half inch) with 4 inserts. 12USD shipped from china. its cheaper than buying chinese locally (shars), and you got ebay buyer protection if the tool fucks up in a hilarious way like in this video.

[@sebastianschwobel5688]

When you are using a cutoff tool like this, hammer the insert into the toolholder till it touches the back. Best regards.

[@meocats]

the idea is, if your insert has a non-chamfered hole in it, it needs clamp/wedge to hold properly, not screw. Screw is for one-side inserts. often, hicks or poor-men will put screw in the former, and that is not correct. if a seller sells such a tool, avoid like the plague. my recommendation for od turning: chinese WTJNR with tnmg insert for 10USD shipped, ebay. The insert is double sided triangle, six cutting edges and very ubiquitous insert. The holder is designed correctly; it has a wedge instead of clamp. The force is more evently applied on the insert and clamp is known to tangle birds nest chips. W is for wedge T is for triangle JNR for 93deg right tool. If you see 'wtjnr' with clamp instead of wedge, its mislabeled. I see a lot of mislabeled tools and inserts, even from brand name companies on ebay. Stuff like one sided insert labeled 'tnmg' (tnmg is double sided by definition). Or triangle insert labeled WNMG (W is for trigon, not triangle). '3' inscribed circle is the most suitable size for small lathe. 2 is better (because its smaller, better matching the small lathe) but more expensive, so you just go with the 3. Example TNMG321. The 3 is the inscribed circle, 2 is the thickness, 1 is the corner radius. so, you go with TNMG K10 grade for aluminium turning, its a highly polished insert. TNMG cermet is good for general steel. A wiper geometry for fine finishes, search TNMX. sandvik's chipbreakers with wiper are WMX, WF. you can get TNMX WMX off ebay from germany 33usd. Is a state of the art insert. 60 cutting edges in the box. With the WTJNR holder 40USD. Search 'sandvik wmx' on youtube for demonstration. if it doesn't fit your QCTP holder, don't mill from the top. Mill from the bottom because it flexes down and outward, so you're milling from the bottom an 'L shape', not fully facing the bottom for it to fit the holder. I get a lot of 1" holders, but they don't fit my BXA holder. That's the solution, or mill dovetail in it, but they are hard and a solid carbide dovetail cutter is $$$$. (i have some but not 60 degree , they are 55 deg, just my luck ... ) top brands for inserts, i'm sure you may already know; sandvik, seco, kennametal. and the japanese ones; mitsubishi. ebay.

[@michaelcameron8594]

If you cant run continuous coolant or mist use none, slopping on oil occasionally is almost guaranteed to cause temperature fracturing of the insert. Cutting dry is better is better than sporadic oil application.

[@georgespangler1517]

I saw them push in inserts and almost bought one but felt they would have too fall out,,,as you just proved,,,thanks

[@JoeKlaas]

You're supposed to tap that style of insert into the parting tool. Just having the insert sit in the holder is no good. Take a small chuck of brass and give it a swift tap to seat it into the taper of the tool. I have the exact tool and it works very well even with the cheap shars inserts.

[@Halligan142]

I did. The second time you can even see that the pocket distorted.

[@Halligan142]

but I'll give it another shot and try seating them deeper. Didn't want to chip the carbide so maybe I didn't hit it hard enough.

[@JoeKlaas]

I didnt have to slam it into the pocket, but I did give it one solid tap to seat it. Use the cheap shars inserts and if you have an extra, dont be afraid to let the inset have it

[@telecrate]

Agreed, have used mine (same Shars model) for a couple of years without any issues. Never fell out on me once with normal use. But it looks like the one in the video is probably busted/deformed now.

[@johns.807]

You said it yourself. "Must be me". You must tap the insert into the holder fully with a brass mallet and your issue will be gone. You are doing discrediting Shars tools when it is you who is at fault.

[@coldformer1]

i have some stand up inserts i cant use what size is your holder

[@alexduke5402]

I was buying the cheapest inserts on Amazon because I was just starting. It was infuriating trying to get a good finish. I bought some more expensive inserts from accusize, and it was night and day difference. Although the accusize is a lot more brittle than the cheap stuff, it leaves a nicer finish. I have had good luck with accusize tools they tend to be higher quality than most of the cheap stuff. When buying on Amazon, I find myself leaning towards that brand. It's not the best, but it meets the requirements for a farm!

[@Suttmike1]

I have a cutoff similar to your except mine has a tension screw that holds the bit in. It has never fallen out for me. The thing you have to watch on all the bits is the type and hardness of the carbide bits. I have never gone wrong with the PR930 bits. I learned that from the guys at Kyocera. They make all kids of bits and they will send you a catalog on request. They use Carbide Depot to sell their bits. If you don’t see them, call them cuz the only show the ones that are stateside. Takes a week to get the bits from Japan if not in stock. They are reasonable. Hope that helps

[@tomvitagliano250]

I bought 2 Shars cut off tools. Same one you had. They had a tendency to dig in (yes I'm on center). Inserts fell out.....I threw them in the garbage pail. Try Seco same style holder they are great. As far as the other inserts go. I have had a continuing problem with Shars. Broken tips etc. I now use Kenametal., or other name brands. You get what you pay for,

[@ChrisHarmon1]

Shars sometimes has better quality then the cheapest tools but I have found that to not always be true. As you indicated the reliefs are the biggest issue with Chinese holders which is fairly easy to fix with a grinding wheel. I picked up a set of 7 12mm tools with inserts for $30 shipped from US to US. They work just like a Shars and even better with some grinding. Once the insert fails I replace with higher quality at which point you have a lot more bang for your buck and a tool thats at least 90% as good as a high end tool. I will admit the higher end tools may have better contact overall with the insert slightly improving life and big cuts, a session with some Dykem would tell the story.

[@ericallen1045]

Weird I have that cutoff tool and I can barely get my insert out after I use it. My removal tool is bent to hell from prying them out

[@robgerrits4097]

About parting bits...Yes they do fall out and wiggle arround even the expencive ones. A tip is to loctite them in place, Problem solved!

[@dochollowood5763]

15:50 - after locking up the shars insert he fast slams it right into the bare 90 degreed 50 thou front burr - then whines he broke the shars insert - well no SHIT ! Yeah sorry but the "fair testing" is out the window

[@74willy81]

Not sure if it's been mentioned already or not but the SCLR tool holder is meant to be used as a boring bar.

[@tommo2785]

if you increased the speed on ally you would break a chip. 400 rpm is around 4000 too slow

[@raymondwoodring7977]

just wanted to say thanks for this video my son and I are getting my dad's SB 9 a up and running after sit all most 22 years so we are learning from you and may more machinist on KZbin this is a great video on cutting bits we are at this stage thank you very much for this information

[@MegaChekov]

Thanks for the video A lot of good information I am new to metal lathe work learning a lot Have a new g602 lathe been using harbor fright cutting bits 17 dollars about 12 in the box carbide insert braised in good for a beginner learner that # is like 222 Thanks again these are 1/2x1/2x4

[@johnhall1018]

Try lightly tapping the carbide insert into the tool holder on the parting blade and they work well. Finger tight just isn't good enough.

[@Halligan142]

I did. The tool holder is actually splayed open. The inserts work well it's just the holder that's junk. I guess it's hit or miss with them. Have confirmed same issue from others.

[@johnhall1018]

Thank you for the reply. I have been using one bought from Arceuro here in england for the past 5 years with no trouble, but as you say it could be just luck of the draw. Huge inconsistencies with anything Chinese. Took me 2 months to fettle a Chinese 8 x 14 lathe! 😂😂

[@edgeeffect]

I like that cut-down tool you've done.... that's a worthwhile "trick" to know... Thanks

[@gwkdad]

Wow, it seems I've stumbled onto the Red Green Machining Show. The only thing missing was when you secured the tool bit holder to the tool post with duct tape....

[@billwebster759]

Maybe I'm missing something here about the angle of the tool holder underneath the insert cutting edge. I don't know how the holder that is not angled underneath the insert can possibly touch the work piece.

[@johnreese3943]

The parting insert pulled out because you set the tool too low. It ran under the small diameter and the friction against the top of the insert pulled it out.

[@RGSABloke]

Hey Greg, that parting blade looks identical to my Aloris blade and when I got it I had the same worries regarding inserting the insert (Aloris) but no problems encountered at all It works like a champ. I, like you, am guessing it's the blade holder that is not up to the job. I used the blade in an Aloris holder but I am not qualified to comment on how relevant that is here. It said the blade would take Sandvik as well as Aloris inserts which gave a bit more flexibility in terms of the option the use other manufacturers. Thanks for sharing.

[@DimaProk]

You can get same tool holders even more cheaper from aliexpress or ebay if you shop around (it's sold directly from China). I picked up external threading tool holder with 1/2" shank for 9 bucks! And let me tell you, it looks solid, good quality, I can't imagine how AR Warner would look and I'll probably will never know at 10x price. Picked up another one with 10 inserts (16ER AG60) for $22, split inserts with a friend, he got a holder with 5 inserts and I got same for about 15 bucks each including shipping. I also picked up internal threading holder and inserts for about same price. Do they work? Yes - did practice threading today on 4041, as well as gun barrel, it works but I also learned how to grind my own threading tool from 5% cobalt 1/4" quality blanks that were sold really cheap on eBay. Got question for you, I was trying to cut internal thread for 5/8 - 24 with a setup where the feeding is happening away from the chuck with toolbit turned 180 degrees and ended up with left hand thread lol. The reason I wanted to do that because I wanted to thread right up against the shoulder and there is no space to stop, anyway it was frustrating why the thread would not work when it seems like I did everything else correctly only to realize my mistake later after 2 separate attempts :) What should I do?

[@Larry1942Will]

Joe Pieczynski' videos on threading!

[@MrAirsoftmodz]

i dont run carbide below 900rp, especially on aluminium, my mentor would tell you they like to be worked, considering the size of your lathe have you considered running a fixed depth parting tool, they are good because a lot of them have long inserts so better hold :)

[@RuianCarbidetools]

Well impressed 😊 boss

[@digiacomtech5589]

@6:30 ... So, why don''t you just add your own relief? Could be done in minutes with a shop grinder. Removing extra machining processes during manufacturing of parts reduces cost ... which is why that holder costs less.

[@celtic1522]

You know I have never seen such a bad use of what is in all ways an Iscar cut off tool design. You got to secure the insert with a light blow of a plastic hammer into the tools wedge. I have busted parting inserts many times, even bent the tool in some cases but the residue of the insert is still in the wedge. As for your pretty little Chinese tool holder and the inferred put down, that brand is as good as anything on the market. Yes it is shorter than the others but I am guessing that is so it can be used on CNC tool posts too without modification. Your cutting speed is to slow, and carbides must be driven in the cut.

[@meocats]

all ccmt holders you showed have a defect which you didn't mention. that being the pocket walls must be inclined to the relief of the insert. So different relief insert get its own tool holder. that's the way it should be. especially for high precision turning, like in the context of swiss lathe.

[@MWandMachine]

With the style cut off tool you’re using the cutting tips should be tapped in with the butt of a plastic screwdriver handle to prevent them from falling out.

[@piyushthakare3495]

I am facing a trouble with turning an sae8620 material But after using carbide insert tip I have opted a very good result. Kindly suggest me a good turning tool tip for making the turning process more comfortable

[@dougbourdo2589]

Better tools are almost always worth the extra cost. Becomes less expensive in the long run. Thanks for testing.

[@dochollowood5763]

so did you grind the shars angle down to match ?

[@piyushthakare3495]

Can such type of insert holder be available in India

[@bobaloo2012]

It's not a matter of pushing the carbide to the limit, it's about hitting their minimum performance level, which you can't do with that lathe. Use HSS, it's a lot cheaper and will work better.

[@arrshithrg5359]

how does hardness of tool holder matter .

[@mealex303]

What lathe do you run? It looks like a bench one?

[@meocats]

the insert in the blade is supposed to touch the back. that's how you know it locked. at least on brand name, but still the chinese copied the brand name tool.

[@gaewing]

How many hp is your lathe? 1phase or 3 phase?

[@actorzone856]

I bought a so called cheap Chinese metal lathe tool holder off Ebay, I had to get it machined down 4mm, I took it to an engineering shop with good equipment and they said "wouldnt take long" when i picked it up they said the steel was extremely hard to cut on the milling machine, they have said some tool holders they have machined down in the past are easy to mill down.

[@Halligan142]

Yes hardness is an issue with holders. It varies wildly. Some are butter soft and others are harder than hell.

[@chrisstephens6673]

A few questions, why do you feel you need more clearance on those tool holders, enough is, erh, enough? Anymore is adding "weakness" and machining cost.. Why do you think they give you a tool to extract the parting insert, if you can pull it out with your fingers? Answer, because you shouldn't be able to, it needs to be seated firmly not just gently put there. On a number of carbide inserts for turning it is NOT recommended you go past centre as the sudden change of load direction can fracture the tip, or in this case pull out a badly seated one. You can also fracture tips if you stop the lathe while the tip is still in contact or under load, although more so with the harder carbides with small nose radii. Did I enjoy the video, yes, quite amusing, and operator error, entirely possible. :>) On your light lathe, I would concentrate on lighter cuts and getting on-size turning with an excellent finish, leave Abom size cuts to the big boy lathes. Hope this doesn't sound too negative, you do do good work.

[@Halligan142]

it was seated. Possibly not enough but I did tap it in place off camera. What I was trying to get at is with finger pressure the insert is seated to its clearance level on the cut off. Other ones I've seen sit back to the stop. Only reason I went past center was because the insert fell out. This lathe likes ~.050 infeed (.100 off diameter) I know it can do that but I want to see if there was a difference between the two carbide inserts so I had to push. Clearance is not an issue but just showing a difference in manufacturing and its convenient if you're trying to break an edge on a bore.

[@marionkenny5753]

Halligan142 of

[@shaunshepherd188]

Chris Stephens m

[@mikeparfitt8897]

It looked like the pocket on your holder was engaging more towards the back, leaving the tip of the insert less well held. More forcible preloading when putting in the insert might have helped, but you also showed the insert moving back over time. This indicates that the jaws have permanently deformed which is not acceptable. Iin this case that the balance between brittleness and ductility may have been too far towards ductility in the material of this holder. Given that there are bad/good results reported for this brand of holder, this could all come down to excessive variation of materials, treatment and manufacturing tolerances in the shape/angle of the pocket compared to the insert. I was surprised by the large gap between the rear of the insert and the lobe at the back of the pocket when the bottom of the insert is level with the edge of the lower jaw - see video at 10:55

[@TheAsdfg74]

For this insert very small rotate per minits. You need upper RPM

[@moustachemike7128]

hi fyi for the new guys heres a couple places for info on inserts and tooling....:kennametal,and carbidedepot ,msc direct and a few others out there ..good info when ya just don't know what ya want...

[@bobbielski9591]

At work we ground the clearance on the tool holder ! no big deal !

[@farquell5782]

you could grind the shars to get the same angle. btw caught your accent right away. from the south shore myself!

[@alnaee2634]

When you pulling back the holder, then the carbide will fall off, for the parting

[@worthdoss8043]

I called the lathe abuse hot line, poor little lathe. LOL Just kidding.:)

[@David-Rule]

6:00 how much to you need? js

[@keupondestroy911]

Merci beaucoup pour la vidéo 📹

[@L1qu1d_5h4d0w]

most of the time you should use max RPM using inserts on old machines. At work I operate from 300-6000 RPM… Edit: 300 rpm with piece of 200 mm diameter btw, don’t misunderstand me :)

[@DSCKy]

I think you got a defective cut off holder?

[@EddieTheGrouch]

I wanted to get an import parting tool but, as you see, getting one with the proper temper is a crap shoot. No amount of tapping would have made any difference - your blade is too soft and the pocket would have opened regardless and a straight edge along the front and bottom will tell the story. Hopefully Shars will exchange or refund the tool. That boring bar, at 1/2", should work nicely in an adjustable boring head. Gotta be better than those crappy cemented carbide and cheese bars. I agree those polished AL inserts won't break a chip - just the nature of the beast. Any geometry radical enough to break 6061 quickly becomes a plow that gets aluminum fused to it unless you stick to finishing cuts. The breaker style you have seems worth looking into. Thanks.

[@meocats]

get one that locks with a screw, MGEHR. i have it, it doesn't fuck up. I also have it in 8mm width iscar brand, and 2mm chinese brand. Same good design, so go with the chinese unless you got a good deal at a flea market. The chinese insert is not likely to go obsolete, unlike the brand name companies which constantly changes the inserts for no fucking reason but to force companies to buy each iteration of the design. the insert is MGMN , its 2 sided. Example MGMN-200 on ebay is 2mm wide. MGMN is the iso/ansi standard generic shape, so its not likely to require a weird holder and not likely to change in the future. The price is like, 20USD for a pack of inserts, 10USD for the holder. shipped. i looked at the prices just now, MGEHR1212 (12x12 shank, aka half inch) with 4 inserts. 12USD shipped from china. its cheaper than buying chinese locally (shars), and you got ebay buyer protection if the tool fucks up in a hilarious way like in this video.

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Just added one to my cart :) Your search must have alerted them. It's now $13.28. Have you tried any profiling with the 2mm?

[@meocats]

it works within the constraints of material physics. steels have more or less the same tensile strength --- when i buy a tool, i look for the design to be the most correct as possible, and second to that the material choices.. not in the reverse order. one of the things i want to do with this tool is side to side profiling, and am looking for inserts with round nose, let me know if you find any on ebay. making bicycle hubs.

[@yanwo2359]

Glad you're back, Greg.

[@nelsonurbay2287]

the insert is falling because it is far below the center of the piece

[@robgerrits4097]

Nice video, but remember you get what you have payed for! Home lathes do not have the stability and speeds required to let the inserts run at there designed speeds therefor you must compromise. Compromising causes problems. You need speed to break chips at the right moment. Big names like Seco work better than others in this case.One tip I got from a very good engineer is that when you want to use carbide is to choise your highest lathe RPM and adjust cutdepth and feed to get the best result. But you can only get the best result if you can feel what the cutting is doing, so start by feeding by hand, it is all experience. If a carpenter blames his tools of doing bad work then I start to doubt the capabilities of the carpenter. I am not criticising mr Halligan but there are alway's more sides to a story.

[@Birender100]

Are these tool holder 1/2" sq. ?

[@Halligan142]

yes

[@johnreese3943]

If you use a self grip insert set below cebter, near the end of the cut the un-cut nub will roll over the top of the insert. Rotation of the part will then pull the insert out of the holder. Don't condemn a tool because you failed to set it up properly.

[@strongme80]

oooo wanna try some of that SECO inserts! Time to use the SECOLOCATOR... Also, if it comes from a place that you have a hard time reading what its called, its probably garbage! ONLY MADE IN USA FOR ME BOYS!!!

[@mattiaslarsson5966]

FYI SECO is from Sweden 😃

[@886014]

Your parting blade insert holder is normal. When you use the blade the insert will be driven back by the cutting forces to seat on the little flat behind the insert, the one between the two holes to remove it. It won't pop out in use as if you look at the holder it has very small Vs to secure the insert. I hope the person who suggested Loctiting the insert in was joking!!! Relief in a standard turning tool holder below the insert will do nothing, and there's no good reason (other than cosmetic) that I can think of to provide it. The closest it will come to rubbing is when facing, but it's still impossible to rub.

[@raysimon1368]

Your rpm is way too slow especially for a small lathe you know you usually get what you pay for but I have had pretty good luck with the Chinese inserts for the money and you have to set the cut off insert with a plastic hammer I'm retired machinist but still have lathes and mills at home

[@bryanknecht513]

the parting toll hass to be punched in. just give it a soft wack on a tabel an teh insert holds. Its not ment to be held in by hand presure.

[@1NRG24Seven]

Try cementing the carbide into that holder using an appropriate Loctite product, hopefully it would not get hot enough in use to dislodge it from the cut off tool holder. Seems if it just had a little more help in holding that bit in place might work fine. To change bits just heat with a butane lighter and use the removal tool. But agree as is its useless but never hurts to see if you can make it work instead of casting it off too soon and you have nothing to lose at this point trying since you would throw it in the junk bin anyway...you have ten bits make that sucker work. No need to throw away your hard earned cash. Thanx for this video as spending money to experiment costs a lot, better your money than mine and helps to narrow down the product choices. If you do not care to try shoot me a price for that cut off tool with bits, i will make the dam thing work come hell or high water. :) One could even silver solder the dam bits to the dam POS holder.

[@desmes62]

Yes, might work fine ! It is worthwhile to test;) I hope he will, and gives us the test results

[@RuianCarbidetools]

😊well impressed. experts😊

[@ClownWhisper]

the cut closer to the chuck not the same as the first cut more flex on the first cut

[@happymark1805]

The cheap tool holders seem to vibrate more

[@BisonWorkshop]

the very second you showed the cut off tool i knew right away it belonged in the trash can. very good review

[@tonyroba]

your cuttingspeed is way to low, foor parting you schould start with 100m/min ( 300 ft/min). for aluminum 400 m/min at least ... for general turning between 100 and 250 m/min. The reason the tip broke is the low speed . If you want to take deep cuts, you need power , for the feed depends on 0.1 to 0.3 mm/ rev. and a 5 hp lathe is no luxury for using carbide inserts . On your lathe i would recommend high speed steel . For this the rpm's where correct .

[@VærdAtSe]

The tip did break beacuse the lathe did a sudden stop due to belt slip when cutting....

[@court2379]

Your tool cutoff tool was set too low causing a reverse of forces when you past center. However something is wrong. They should not come out. I don't think the holder and insert match. The blade should never protrude past the insert. Also as I recall they should seat at the back (After wedging in) to carry the cutting loads. That holder is way too deep for that insert.

[@610324dan]

swedish quality , seco and sandvik is the only I use

[@johncoscia5258]

Not a big deal but getting huge is the instrumental opener electric guitar composition . Change that i beg of you , keep the cat and content coming . A littie note from a learner , the little lathes and imperfect tools bring a lot more focus on your fine work being what a lot of people forget , affordable !! No home lathes or milling would be possible . Besides aren't mini lathes made by big lathes? Those bigger machines would be western origin that pump out similar quality of tolerance ?

[@georgespangler1517]

Still for the price,,,,but that was a lot for any tool and most lathes

[@Caughtitoutdoors]

I've been buying insert tooling for years for my lathe, and I'd trust Bangood tooling over shars any day. That style of cut off blade sucks by design even from good brands let alote "sharts".

[@jasonvetter912]

You mentioned a negative rake. You had a negative insert and the tool holder pocket is machined with a positive rake, otherwise insert would heel. The positive holders have neutral pockets or no rake because the insert has a positive mold with a 7 Degree rake. Carbide broke because you stalled the spindle, running way too slow. With a small 1/4" IC you have to watch taking those DOC's. You are getting close to the screw hole which is the thinnest cross section...not a good idea.

[@daryltempel328]

I dropped the price on the first (7) 1/2" All in One Turning Tools sold.

[@ElectricEvan]

It's cool that you are in Natick! I grew up in Holliston.

[@frijoli9579]

400rpm??? At that speed use positive rake tooling and light cuts.

[@alby2317j35]

Sfm!!! 400rpm is the Speed for duplex f5 on 60mm of diameter .

[@vajake1]

Nicely done. Thanks for posting this.