#252

[@mikefinn2101]

Another amazing enjoyable video.Just love watching Peter do such a professional job. Many thanks. Best of them all

[@robertrainey1728]

Nice repair of the power supply. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the restoration.

[@TKomoski]

Always fun watching Peter Cheers *73*

[@dl7majstefan753]

Well done dear peter. But is uit really a good idea, to leave the old electrolytics in place and put a screw through them. Don´t you fear any leakage over the years causes by these screws? I would put new electrolytics inside the old emptied and cleaned cans - yes a little bit more work but this old supply deserves it.

[@t1d100]

Dear good sir, I greatly appreciate the time and effort you graciously give to us, in sharing your knowledge and talents in your videos. Thank you. But, I must agree with Stefan, et al. I am so hopeful that you will agree and that you make a video of you reworking the installation of the large capacitors. Owning up to this mistake and correcting it would be your pièce de résistance video. There are lots of KZbin videos on how to hide the new caps inside the old ones. As these caps have cardboard covers that slide off, it will be quite easy. I hope that you are encouraged to make the effort.

[@hectorpascal]

Yes. Personally I also would be unhappy to leave those old capacitors in place. Hopefully the electrolyte has dried out, but no guarantee :( I too would probably dismantle the old cases and fit new capacitors inside.

[@lylewatts6370]

Great job and it still looks like a Heathkit power supply. Nice to keep the old power supplies and radios looking original. Thanks for sharing Peter.

[@TheRadioShop]

Nice solution on the capacitor upgrade Peter. You handle vintage gear well my friend. 73

[@bblod4896]

I like how you do it, removing the guts from the old capacitor can and re-stuffling with new capacitors.

[@Joe_HamRadioGuy]

That power supply came out very nice. Can't wait to see the radio working. I've always liked playing with these old units. Great job Peter.

[@DonDegidio]

Hi Peter, Awesome repair to the power supply. Had not seen that style of terminal posts. Looking forward to the restoration of the HW-12. I still have the HW-16 and HG10B from my Novice days. That was a fine CW rig. You and your family stay safe. 73 WJ3U

[@ve99online]

Hello Peter, as always, a very good video on the subject of power supplies. Heathkit devices still hold a great deal of fascination. In my youth I could only get a Heathkit Tube Voltage meter. How well equipped we are today and there are several vintage Heathkit devices in my Shack 73, DG3JA, Jörg

[@acefeeley9007]

Peter, we all hope you and your family are doing well.

[@HaseebElectronics]

Fantastic and superb tutorial Sir you always explain excellently in perfect professional ways Salutes for your struggles in spreading your knowledge and valuable practical experience

[@andreVE4BK]

Excellent!… btw my first HF was a Heathkit HW-101 transceiver back in The early 1980’s. Ahhh the Heathkit memories. Thank you Peter !!

[@radioguy19510]

In America we use the term "Hot Water" to remember the HW-12. Thank you for the video.

[@stevec2196]

One problem I noticed is with the grounds. At 14:20 one end of the new diode is connected to the mounting tab of the old cap and then a negative lead of the new cap is connected to another tab but this is not necessarily a good ground! The tabs could be loose or corroded and the mounting plate they go into can also be a problem being mounted on the painted surface of the chassis with 2 screws. To provide a good connection the tabs need to be soldered to the plate or a ground wire run from one of the tabs to a good chassis ground on bare metal.

[@DaveGringo]

Hi Peter, I have the 20 meter version of this (HW-32A), I remember a neighborhood friend gave it to me when I was probably about 14 years old to try and fix. He thought it was a CB! I am turning 60 this month, still have it... For years it sat because I did not have the PS for it. Many many years ago I bought the supply (HP-20, little older then yours). Radio worked pretty well after fixing a crack running through the circuit board effecting a few traces and cracked 1N34 glass diode. I was actually impressed with the sound / clarity of the receiver. Pretty close to my KWM-2 really... (I also have a TS-50 I did all the SMD caps years ago when they started acting up and replaced them with tiny Panasonic thru hole style caps). One suggestion on the Heathkit that I did to mine a few years ago. I started having intermittent issues with tube pins to tube socket contacts. Close inspection with bright light and 20x magnifier. Black oxidation was building up in the sockets. I couldn't really get them cleaned up well, plus the "grip" of the sockets to the pins was not good too. I ended up buying all new PCB mount style "gold plated ceramic tube sockets" that fit the circuit board perfectly though eBay, from China. Very high quality tube sockets actually, and of course used a fiberglass brush to clean the tube pins nice and shiny. Fixed all the intermittent issues and really wasn't that difficult of a job with my Hakko desoldering station... Now the tubes fit in the sockets very nice and tight! No more loose wiggly tubes...

[@bblod4896]

Nice rebuild. Should last another fifty years. Thanks for the video Peter, have a great week.

[@FUNKLABOR_DL1LEP]

Nice Work! 73, cheers, Jens espec. the post and screwing them down. in my QRL we have those pertinax strips with posts

[@w.rustylane5650]

Glad I found part 2 of the Heathkit repair. I so much enjoy your videos. You are top notch technician. Will you build/use a crowbar protection circuit??? I think old power supplies are in need of such a device as most newer supplies have over current/voltage protection built in. Will those rubber stoppers prevent electrolytic leakage??? They could leak in a different area causing all kinds of problems. I think I would have removed the can caps and restuffed the metal housings so it would look stock and get the old electrolytics out. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee

[@charlieoscar09]

Excellent video ...Looking forward to the Restoration Videos Thankyou

[@Swataia]

I have only one concern on this modification. When you drive a screw into an old electrolytic capacitor you might have some leakage of fluid in the future. Also the stripping off a connector like that could make it possible to leak. I would have emptied those caps from underside and leave them only for empty casings where you would have ability to put new caps inside, or then like you did leave them underside. That would mean more work for sure. But maybe they will not leak ever, would be a good idea to look after some months or years inside and check. That size of caps can hold quite a lot of fluid. Anyway wery good job to restore this kind of device.

[@billnicholson2470]

Very nice work Peter! Thanks for the lesson. Always enjoy watching how you approach any repair. 73 de kb7ici

[@dennisqwertyuiop]

great work,,never seen those terminal blocks

[@DeltaXray444]

Sublime work Peter.. very nice well done.

[@RGB06084]

Very nice work sir!

[@rickb.6068]

Good morning and thanks for the video.

[@aslerunarborgersen5175]

Hi Peter, I have a question for you. You have some very good instructional videos how to build baluns. What about making a video how to build bandpassfilters? I am sure you too are operating your radio equipment during field days, and are having interference from nearby transmitters. Then we need a good bandpassfilter, and it would been very helpful to see if you can show us how to build one. Greetings from Norway, 73 LB5JG Asle

[@christiangodin5147]

Good day. i wonder why you did not make a simple support base just to replace the faulty capacitors on the same place as the old ones. It would have look as good as the original design, if not better.

[@jimwolsiffer4397]

Great work Peter, ahh my old Heathkit days came back watching this! Did you test the circuit breaker? I typically do so as have had a few in the past that took considerable more current to open than rated.

[@lupojacobo9892]

Thanks for sharing

[@_GunWi_]

Schöne Idee mit den in die Elkos geschraubten Lötpunkten! Woher kann man solche bekommen?

[@Steven.Cartwright]

Hi TRX man where have you gone? Are you ok? Hope to see you back soon .

[@TKomoski]

Peter you said LV = lower voltage from what I remembered LV = line voltage

[@chickennugget3362]

Missing my TRX Bench fix =(

[@Drekkag]

Nice restoration. But..... That switch for the LV 250/300 should have nothing to do with the -130 bias line. I have looked at all variations of that power supply schematics and all agree, the switch only controls the LV line. The -130 bias should always be there no matter which position other than off. It should read around -130V. Something is not right. I only point this out as I have 2 HW-101s here with a HP-23 and HP-23B power supply. I have looked at all schematics of each version and again, I say that the switch has nothing to do with the bias. No bias means your radio will not operate like it should. I hope you understand this and can make sure of it but having no bias means even in the HW-12, the tubes that need bias will not work. If you would like, i can send you all variations of that power supply as schematics and you can see this. 73, ad0am Adam

[@hans429]

Its malfunction, not mailfunction....without the I...mailfunktion is a funktion of sending mail.....letters is that, not lettuce...screw that, at least the darn thing works now....good job!

[@charliem.9998]

my exquisite respect for Peter's knowledge .... best 73s de DL6RDE / AA1KD, Charlie

[@grahammunn3264]

Great video thanks Ve9gwm graham

[@sniperchaz111]

great videos peter have you an email address i can contact you on about some info on the icom 726 i watched your vid you made 5 yrs ago but the info i need on the icom 726 i cannot find anywhere on the internet chaz (2E0EMN)