259 Dewalt radial arm saw fence making, fitting and set up

[@ww321]

Thanks for the video series. I'm working on my 1954 DeWalt GWI 10" . I've had it for 17 years and decided it needed a new top and a tube up. JW

[@rogerwebb9600]

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[@raydriver7300]

That was so interesting. I am currently setting up my radial arm saw and the use of a dial gauge is enlightening. I also have a decades old Black & Decker drill press! Thank you for sharing 🌞

[@travishanson166]

I just brought home a dewalt ras. Can't wait to set it up. I had no idea what I brought home until I saw a few you tube videos. A very versatile machine.

[@rogerwebb9600]

Thank you, for watching, Please visit my Patreon page, subscribe and forward the video on to a friend. Roger Webb ;-)

[@nickster5286]

Thanks for the instructional video! It will be a great help for when I get my radial saw setup. Great job and thanks again!

[@murphymmc]

You might spend some time looking for the anti-kickback arm the fits those saws, they do work well. The other tip is to roll the guard down closer to the cut side to keep chips from being thrown into your face(when ripping). Very useful tool to have set up. Some of those have an arbor on the opposite side of the blade to be able to mount a router or shaper bit. My old one had that feature, though I never used it that way.

[@johnmcginnis9391]

First Tracy Ann is correct about the rip. I also use a guard that is simply a 2x6" notched to pass the material thru. Its clamped to the table front and the back end floats in front of the blade. Prevents my hands from getting too close or being drawn into the blade. I also use an anti-kickback roller when ripping. I use a table and fence as the OP shows rather than the split style that is most common. seldom do I miter with the arm; it is always in the 90deg position. I use jigs for mitering. Fact my last table I built I did MFT style. There are dog holes for 90, 60, 45, 30, 22.5 deg spotted about the table. Drop in pins, position fence, clamp, cut. Extremely fast setups.

[@filmart430]

I honestly think the fence is too far back. Doesn’t the blade need to be safely parked behind the fence?

[@Bbendfender]

Great video. I have been having problems getting my DeWalt radial arm saw to make a square cut. I will build a fence like you have and set my saw with a regular square and a T-square.

[@timbertreats599]

Sir, it never takes you long to get a “thumbs down”. I understand that any interaction on a channel whether negative or positive is still an “interaction” and Google recognises it as so. So any negative is a positive and advances your channel. I always like your videos . Thank you for your time

[@chrislandis6096]

Worked thanks for the tip, seems so logical after doing it

[@rogerwebb9600]

You're welcome!

[@danieldibiaso9342]

It’s nice having a zero clearance fence but with no dust collection sawdust is a mess. My fence has a wider gap and I have a dust collection box behind and it collects about 95% of the dust. December 24 2022

[@woodensurfer]

I believe in your first rip (in-rip) the feed direction is not recommended. In rip and out-rip should be fed in the opposite directions.

[@MrCblase]

agreed, his kickback stopper was in front of the cut and not behind where it bites into the wood

[@CHEVI789]

These saws can be adjusted in all directions, I know I have one, my friend gave me one in pieces, and I've put it together, not easy but there are some other videos out there to give you hints, the rest I've worked out myself. At 13:37 you can see a really big screw head on the radial arm near post, there's one on each side, set the mitre guide to 0 and adjust those two big screws (one on each side), there are 3 on the motor as well.

[@Ritalie]

Are radial arm saws making a comeback? This is a great video tutorial. Watching the ripping process is absolutely terrifying. I used to absolutely love spinning blades and cutting wood, and there was no feeling of anxiety, or loss of control. But I recently had a bad kickabck on a tablesaw, due to severe sleepiness, and poor judgement. Now I'm trying to figure out if I have the courage to use a new radial arm saw that I am hoping to buy tomorrow. I found an old Craftsman.

[@jamesvibert2118]

Wow! Roger please read a DeWalt manual and correct your video!

[@tracyann3284]

Roger, I have that saw. The fence is supposed to be out further so that the saw blade parks behind it so you can set your work up and then pull through. Comments below are correct about the guard when doing a rip. Lower the front until it almost touches the work and then set the anti-kickback rod. (turn the rod so the teeth of the rod are curved with the blade). When I get a chance I'll send you some pictures. I bought my saw new in the early 80's complete with the stand..

[@Ritalie]

Hi Tracy, do you still use your saw? Have you had any serious issues? I don't want to bring bad luck by asking. But I had a recent table saw kickback that was super bad, but it was due being in a trance like state after work, from severe sleep deprivation after working all week in construction. I have been wanting a RAS forever, but for people who don't own them, they just say they are useless and too dangerous. We had a RAS in our highschool shop class. I never saw a single accident, and it got used daily to cut a million different things.

[@JimLambier]

I'm enjoying watching your videos on the radial arm saw. I haven't seen anyone else create videos on this machine recently. It's a shame since there are so many of these saws out there. I'm looking forward to seeing it more.

[@Ritalie]

Have you owned one of these saws? It's been my life dream to simply own one. They make such large, perfectly straight crosscuts. There isn't anything that can do it so effortlessly, on large sheets of plywood. Sliding compound miter saws and table saws are good, but it seems like a dedicated radial arm saw is the best saw to do repeated, 90 degree crosscuts on very thick, or sheet goods. I've never owned one, so I'm trying to convince myself that it's a good idea to own one. I am supposed to pick one up tomorrow morning, a vintage Craftsman, for $100. I figured for $100, I should just do it and buy it, and it's a 1960's or very early 70's model (or thereabouts) model, so should be built pretty good.

[@JimLambier]

@@Ritalie When I purchased mine about 5 years ago, there was an active recall on many of these older Craftsman saws. Some of the saws had a $100 rebate if you cut out the motor and mailed it back. Some of the saws had an upgrade kit available that came with an improved blade guard, kickback pawls and a few other safety related components. I just checked and I see that the upgrade kits are no longer available and the rebate is now only $50. I honestly have only used the saw a few times and have instead just used the table saw or my sliding mitre. My RAS came with a digital display which seems like it would be a nice feature except every time I go to use it the batteries are dead and they are a strange size, hard to source, and expensive. The quality of my Craftsman is also lacking and is not great for precision cuts I find that the RAS takes up a lot of room and I'm thinking of getting rid of it. The safety aspect does scare me. I've heard that these things should have a negative rake blade and I wasn't able to locate one at a reasonable cost.

[@brianweekley5700]

Nice job, but the fence is purposely designed to be moveable to accommodate the multiple and versatile functions you can perform on a radial arm saw. With the original clamping mechanism, the fence could easily be moved all the way back for extra cut capacity. You would also have greater rip width capacity then what you report. Unfortunately, your fence design fixed to the table in this manner really limits many of it’s intended functions. Glad to see someone enjoying their RAS though-they are great machines.

[@rogerwebb9600]

Thank you, for watching, Please like, subscribe and forward the video on to a friend, Roger Clyde Webb

[@killingoldgrowthsince]

Absolutely right Brian. It's hard to send a friend bad information Roger.

[@frankherring6253]

Everyone should watch your videos Brian. Then they will have the correct information! Thanks Brian!

[@guineafowl8029]

You ripped the board from the wrong side - you should always rip against the rotation of the blade, and set the anti-kickback pawls onto the wood.

[@stadleroux]

I think you need to watch the last couple of minutes of the video again, because he did in fact rip from the correct side. I'll even leave the time from when you should watch here for you: 22:40. The only time when the wood was on the 'wrong' side was when he was showing the position of the blade for out-ripping and the two pieces of wood were lying on the out-feed side, but then he wasn't actually ripping, was he!

[@eriksalmon]

Thanks for doing this video, I have a Craftsmen 10" RAS and have done a lot of research on them so I can be safe. I like the way you set up your fence and I know others will comment on enclosing the blade but you did mention why you did not. Each person has to decide what is best for their use. Thanks again and I hope you do more of these.

[@rogerwebb9600]

Thank you, for watching, Please like, subscribe and forward the video on to a friend, Roger Clyde Webb ;

[@2369chico]

Thanks just what I was looking for.have older b&d dewalt similar to yours

[@kelvindawe5123]

Roger although the video is very helpful to most that fence realy should be 4inch further forward as recommended by dewalt becouse as you have it the blade is never safe in fact very dangerous and if its more working space you want just have a wider bench.

[@zweg1321]

Thanks for making this video I am surprised that someone is still using a radial arm saw Mine was my first saw 30 years ago I am on my 2 nd table saw I use mine as a chop saw

[@shaunwhiteley3544]

At 13:45 not sure if it was the camera angle but the top of the blade looked ‘cantered’ forwards, not sure how to explain, 358 degrees at top 178 at bottom if that makes sense. Which would make a difference if you are doing any rip cuts, the cut won’t be square, I am hoping to be doing a lot of rip cutting. Cheers

[@attiliobarcados8178]

thr girdle showed here seems newer than mine

[@shaunwhiteley3544]

It would have been good to show how to modify it if it hadn’t been so true. Not everyone will be so lucky. ( I have just bought one but it’s in storage while my garage is built) . Cheers the rest of the video was very helpful.

[@davidlang4442]

You never start by stating ,always unplug your equipment before doing any adjustments. This is critical. Plus wear all safety equipment such as dust mask, remove any rings and button up long sleeve shirts. A woodworker of 40 years plus.

[@tomasarguinzoni9022]

Very nice job thank you for sharing great tips

[@Unionboggle]

Roger, what's an ideal height from the ground for the table?

[@Unionboggle]

love your videos Roger!

[@shaunwhiteley3544]

How much height can you lift, or distance you can drop the blade? What I am asking is what’s the safest thickness of wood you can cut? Cheers And have you lost any depth of cut with the height of the table? Cheers

[@WKYanks]

Nice job. What year is your Saw?

[@rogerwebb9600]

1970s

[@WKYanks]

@@rogerwebb9600 I have a 1981 12" 77790 Type 7.

[@KevinCoop1]

Roger, it has been a year since you made this video. Do you use the saw? What do you use it for? I have two Craftsman RAS's a 9" and a 12". Awesome machines in man ways. Respectfully, Kevin

[@rogerwebb9600]

Thank you, for watching, Please like, subscribe and forward the video on to a friend, Prof, Roger Clyde Webb

[@terrysavage2745]

Do not forget to unplug the saw

[@richardlongoria9724]

Richard L , Roger great step by step video's where can I purchase the same T-square in this video and your yellow blade square any information would be greatly appreciated. I just bought a Dewalt 16" blade Radial saw. I want to make it square motor to table etc. any help I appreciate it. Thanks Richard in Texas

[@rogerwebb9600]

Can someone help Richard in the USA with this, thanks? Thank you for watching, Please forward the video on to a friend, Australian Inventor Roger Clyde Webb ;-)

[@rayraden2527]

Richard and Roger and everybody else there’s a book out there you can find on the Internet that’s written by A guy called Mr. Sawdust and all the fine adjustments that are on these saw’s. There is also a website for the DeWalt radial arm saw it’s dedicated to them both the book and website are very beneficial for you when you’re setting this saw up

[@Mark-xl8gg]

Using the blade in a ripping position in combination with compound angles will allow you to cut covings of various depths Also remember to use the anti kickback device and only feed from the correct direction

[@Ritalie]

This comment is old, but I'm wondering if you could provide more information? What anti kickback device? I was under the impression that with crosscuts, you don't use the anti kickback device on a RAS? I thought it was only for ripping, since the wood can be ejected towards you, and the kickback pawls stop the wood from launching towards you? I noticed the new Craftsmans have a genius idea of a rolling pizza cutter "riving knife" type device, which would prevent the kickback from happening in the first place. I wonder if a riving knife/pizza cutter device can be retrofitted to an older saw? I'm planning on getting a 1960's era Craftsman tomorrow.

[@pavanrajput3260]

Good explanation Roger Sir

[@hansleonardo217zevallos6]

Muy buena maquina valor actual en Dólares.Abrazos de Lima Perú.

[@rogerwebb9600]

Hi, see videos 157 and 158 for information on this tool; I paid $150 for this secondhand used tool. Thank you for watching, Please forward the video on to a friend, Australian Inventor Roger Clyde Webb ;-)

[@morganplatt6762]

I'm sorry to be negative Roger but the fence has always to be behind the minimum distance the blade travels towards the pillar.There is no end of information on this from manufacturers. Otherwise, good vid.

[@rogerwebb9600]

Merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your family

[@mikekmit6045]

By putting the fence BEHIND the blade, and having to put a parallel against the fence, how much cutting surface are you "saving"? I'll keep my fence in front of my fence, thank you very much.

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Mike, the extra width available is the depth of the fence behind what it would have been if it were placed in front of the parked blade, ie around 250mm. With cross cutting, you can hold your work against the fence and push the blade into the wood doing a push cut. This would have less tendency to kick-back compared to a climb cut pulling outwards with a deep set fence. It just means you need to start your cut with the saw outside the fence and your work. No problem.

[@edaker4684]

@@petermarsh4993 dude you have no idea how to use a RAS correctly.

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Mike, the “normal” stroke with an RAS is pulling the mechanism forward into the wood - that’s a climb cut. If you went to your table saw and pushed your wood in from the back of the blade towards the front of the table - that’s also a climb cut. You wouldn’t dream of doing the latter but don’t seem to mind the former. Yes, I have never used a RAS but was arguing from a logical point of view and with experience with a table saw and a milling machine. Thousands of people use an RAS and they don’t cut their arms off or get frightened by frequent kick-backs and so there can’t be a serious problem. If at the end of the day you get your work done and don’t cause any major trouble, there is no problem.

[@Dustwheel]

Good golly my friend, you're ripping from the wrong direction. Can be dangerous. The handle should always be opposite the direction of the rip. The kick back paw should be on the outfield side of the rip. Nice saw and thanks for the vid.

[@VICKING589]

I think I need a radial arm saw....

[@davidbray6515]

Your only saving on space when ripping timber whit the fence in that position your not saving anything on the cross cutting the fence needs to be further forward