28 chevy engine assembly part 1

This video goes over how I installed the crank, cam, and timing gears.

[@dillinpicklesworth5698]

Should've put a dab of lock-tite, on the cam and cover bolts, just to save yourself any future headaches. But great job!👍💯

[@brianmeek5236]

Keep it up. When I restored my 1917 Chevrolet 490 despite having the service manual what I really needed was a 125 year old Chevrolet mechanic.

[@lunchtimerestorations1490]

Hahaha. How handy would that be? Thanks for watching and for the encouragement.

[@bernardreeves5028]

One '28 Chevy engine I bought was perfectly painted inside and out and everything sparkly clean inside, but it would not run whatever I tried! Turned out the cam was timed wrong, the flywheel was also in the wrong position which meant the TDC and spark timing marks where wrong. So I fixed all that and started it up, a while after it started to knock, took the sump off and found that all the cast in oil troughs were blocked (you can't see into them, have to feel) with solid sludge and so the cam, cam gears and crank bearings were running dry! Had to strip the engine to clear all the oil passages and troughs and take a few shims out. Never trust a shiny engine!

[@lunchtimerestorations1490]

I agree. Luckily I did not trust this engine when I got it. The person before me thought that just cleaning and painting stuff was a restoration.

[@hollyschwind9084]

We seem to be progressing in sync - I have a 27 Chev that we are rebuilding. Looking forward to your next video!

[@lunchtimerestorations1490]

That’s great! Thanks for watching.

[@gerrysamuel3383]

Love the video

[@lunchtimerestorations1490]

I’m glad you like it. Thanks for watching.

[@bernardreeves5028]

Apologies, I deleted my previous comment as it had incorrect info. However I'm wondering why there are no shims under the main caps for future adjustment and why you didn't appear to check the clearances or back lash. The cam gears are lubed by oil that exits a groove in the cam bearing and pools in the bottom of the the cam cover, not by that scoop in the timing plate, which is to return excess oil that splashes off the gear back into the crankcase. This keeps the oil below the hole in the cover. Best to check the camshaft for back lash as too much can affect the distributer timing. Also not sure if you used Loctite on those screws, but if not they need staking with a punch.

[@lunchtimerestorations1490]

I appreciate the feedback. There are no shims under the main caps because they had the correct clearance without them. In the future, they will need to be re-babbited. I did not check for back lash because I have never heard of that. Can you explain what that is and how to check it? I was sure to use Locktite on the screws. You got me concerned on your previous comment about having the first piston in TDC. I have read different opinions on this matter. I have been using information found on the VCCA chat forum that stressed it was not an issue. Would you agree with that now? If not, could you explain what could happen if I don’t go back and make sure it’s in TDC? Thanks for watching and for the feedback. I find it helpful and I’m sure others do too. Jim

[@bernardreeves5028]

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 I have had 3 x '28 Chevy engines apart and put together again, a few yrs ago and I forget how I timed the cam gears, I know it was a puzzle! The book shows how to fit the gears as you have them, then the next sentence goes on about how to find TDC, very ambiguous and odd. But you can put in number 1 piston and intake lifter which should start to lift when the piston is around 1/16" down from TDC. That's the figure for an AA motor, which has a different cam, oddly again they don't give one for the AB! But it will tell you if anything is miles out. Be sure to put all the lifters in their original places or the cam may wear quickly. You can check how much clearance you have in the crank and rod bearings by placing a strip of .002 cooking foil on the crank pin and then tightening the cap. If the crank still turns easily there may be too much wear, if you put 2 strips (.004") and it does not turn it should be ok, do one bearing at a time.The crank lash or end float should be 003 to .006 any more and you may get clonking when you press the clutch, more annoying than dangerous..

[@peterbild1000]

I think the main bolts should be 65 FT/LB