Failure upon failure without the loss of enthusiasm.

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[@tjwaines]

Success is stumbling from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm - Winston Churchill

[@seabeepirate]

Man your enthusiasm is inspiring! If your oil is not flowing between the contact surfaces, it’s getting hot from friction. You’ve created something similar to an oil friction heater. Your rotary valve is not a simple shape, it will warp when it gets hot. That’s probably causing uneven wear.

[@seabeepirate]

And vibration

[@fireblow44]

​@@seabeepiratepro tip: you can edit your comment

[@mcqcjc8409]

@@fireblow44 Since when is it pro tip

[@knuddelwinzig498]

​@@mcqcjc8409Ever since there has been sarcasm 😉

[@brianpaul98]

Amateur tip : you can't edit as far as I know on Android mobile, you have to delete and retype.

[@Rothgar68]

I ran belt drive on a 125cc IAME kart engine and it was too much friction. I destroyed clutches and cranks all the time. Perhaps if you replace the belt with chain it'll relieve the friction issues.

[@joegreene6250]

This will be an under-rated comment. At the rpm that belt is turning, the losses are almost exponential compared to a roller chain. The engine is losing 20% of its power in the rotating mass and friction of the transmission, too. This is a tough nut to crack.

[@ggallin713]

@@joegreene6250I was thinking the same thing when watching this , the lash on that belt is visible and could probably benefit from a roller guide, or as stated in the other comment, a chain will probably be the best option. You have to consider the extra parasitic torque that the compressive lash is adding to the rotating mass of the transmission. Rewatch your video and watch that belt. you might be able to record the sound and use the hertz of the belt noise to formulate some specific points where RPMS and harmonics are a potential issue. I'm just brainstorming here, but thats something that stuck out to me as an issue, Keep stuffing 🦺@2STROKESTUFFING

[@waldmarkszwei6933]

I think that this is actually a big issue with this engine too and i would also suggest to replace it with a chain. The engine revs so much better when the gearbox is not connected, and also it seems like the gearbox itself doesn't cause so much frriction as he can spin it very easily by hand, so yeah. Also, when the correct chain is picked it would even get rid of the tensioner, causing less issues overall. I hope he takes this advice serious.

[@joeh88]

Please, forgive me for overstepping in a field I know nothing about... But I have been watching your channel for some time now. And I have noticed a trend, one of which that in my field of expertise almost always ends in "chasing my tail." I have noticed that when you make changes, it's almost always in leaps and bounds and multiple answers to a single problem ( a few changes to rectify one problem) instead of changing only one thing at a time.... I hope you succeed in your quest friend, and I truly enjoy your content! I am a huge fan. - from stateside

[@SB-fe4gt]

I would make the surfaces of the rotary valve and the mating surfaces as hard as possible, type 3 hard anodize if you use aluminum and chrome would be nice and hard if steel or carburize/nitride the surface. Forget the PTFE coating, it will wear off to quickly and create contamination for the bearings. I'd make the rotary valve thicker so it is more rigid...more rigid should keep it from flexing as much which should help with the frictional heating. The weight from a thicker rotary valve will not hurt you for Land Speed Racing since you will have plenty time to accelerate everything. You might want to take a look at the Rotax 582 engine rotary valve design...yet another option.

[@AntonHoward-mx9sb]

Love what you are up to. I'm a development engineer and Toolmaker, been doing it 40 years. I get paid to do what you do, but my stuff isn't as exciting as yours. Keep up the good work, I know exactly how hard it can be to keep going.

[@paradiselost9946]

you possibly still get paid when you stuff up. and then. sigh. you still gotta keep on earning when you KNOW you actually need to sit down for a few days and cry.

[@Ratkill]

The amount of personal drive you have is inspiring. Me and my brother have a few moto projects going, and it usually takes one of us making the hour long drive to visit the other in order to make real progress. Its sooooo hard to chug through all the assembling and disassembling. Whenever I hit a roadblock or have to do something all over again, the wind really leaves my sails. I hope there's enough of us here to keep you encouraged! Not obligated but really encouraged! Love watching these and the amount of technical development at work is crazy!

[@Relaxiknowarchie]

Glad to see things moving forward, dude. I don't have any mechanical advice, but I will cheer you on!

[@tmackinator]

I often used double sided carpet tape ( the cloth variety not he paper type) to hold such a piece. I did however always clamp also to avoid any chance of movement. Obviously the smallest dia. mill that will work is best. Also, after machining the center hex, pause and add a large washer type clamp that is held down by a cap screw in the center. That way you can completely machine the valve without the webbing you are using.

[@michldehpunkt9904]

I'm wondering if the rotary valve rubbs somewhere on the housing. Maybe something flexes under load. You could paint the rotary valve before installing it and check if the paint gets rubbed off somewhere, it should wear out pretty quickly and and the spots would be clearly visible.

[@jojoskunk]

really cool that you make a engine in your garage with all of us that can see your progress. keep it up its amazing.

[@syopspwnz]

you should check out what we call "drill press locking clamp" - it's like a one sided vise grip pliers with a threaded stud on it. You can use it with typical drill press or in your case adapt it for t-slots. Makes quick clamping jobs easier. Avoid those hospital trips :)

[@johnmitchell8188]

I used to use bench clamps which just need a hole in the table-top into which you sink a collar. Same principle, I would highly recommend clamping anything receiving the attention of an angle grinder. If only, to save my nerves.

[@FilipAus]

I used to have a chart showing the oring groove dimensions based on the thickness, material and pressure required. Was really helpful when I was designing cave diving torches as they had many sealing surfaces at relatively high pressures. I'll see if I can find it and post back here

[@AntiVaganza]

O-ring groove design is actually really simple to do if you know what compression to aim for. But also now, there are online design calculators that will do it for you. Look up Eriks and Trelleborg.

[@paavokaleva]

The most interesting engine build, tear-down, re-build saga in YT, that I've seen so far!

[@Modna89]

Just something to keep in mind as you go through this troubleshooting. Friction is obviously an issue you are dealing with, the excessive wear on the carbon fiber rotary valve proves that. But friction is just a parasitic energy drag. If you expect this engine is making 10kw but then on the dyno it's only getting 5 kw to the tire, that is 5 kw of friction (heat) going somewhere. That would get your rotary valve cover glowing red very quickly, and would cause severe mechanical damage wherever that friction is being created. Point of this comment is to not get tunnel vision on the friction and then be disheartened if your actual power output doesn't go up as much as you expected. Keep this up! I love this content and I'm happy to be a new patron 🤘

[@SB-vb8ch]

I had a Gp100 once...that had a rotary valve that just worked for the entire time I owned it....that was quite a long time ago too

[@extec101]

Aprilias rs125 engine got rotary valve that works flawless also, dont remember if its a rotax engine used by aprilia.

[@Zt3v3]

I really respect your perseverance.

[@fatbettysadventure603]

Finding all of the ways that don't work is how we make engineering breakthrough's. Your frustration now is a valuable education. I truly believe your on your way to great things.

[@firstlast-ty4di]

The torque resistance from the rotary valve has two first-order components. They are viscous drag and normal (perpendicular) friction. Both of those depend, in part, on crankcase pressure. With a solid rotary valve (no opening), one could perform experiments to measure the magnitude on both sources of resistance. By blocking the exhaust port and pressurizing the crankcase (leave out the spark plug), one can characterize the resistance with respect to rpm, pressure and lubricant viscosity. With proper lubrication, there will be no normal friction, but there would also be no wear on the valve. So, there must be some normal friction. I admire you excellent mechanical skills. I can also see that you have the shrewd mind of a scientist and engineer. Good luck on you continuing efforts.

[@NotJo4Ever13]

I’m so blown away by your constant drive. You are a force to be reckoned with. I hope the community continues to come together to support you and keep you working for our entertainment! Because if we don’t, you WILL be picked up by a smart engineering company who keeps you in your shed flush with all the toys you want and doesn’t let us see you anymore!

[@ericschumacher5189]

Looking forward to the next video!!! Others have commented similar things but here's my feedback; In my line of work coatings that are sacrificial have to hold oil or the areas that are in boundary lubrication will overheat and damage the coating, which can be worse for wear / friction / heat than just the parent metal rubbing away, which is specifically why cast-iron-liners and Nikasil bores works but, you don't commonly see DLC/TNT coated items without forced lubrication (full-film)......keeping this in mind Black-Oxide and other Phosphate/Parkerized surface transformation treatments hold oil very well, are soft enough to be sacrificial, and thick enough to still exist after losing a-bit of cross section, without the properties changing......Hopefully your rotary valve works (as-is) without any coatings, but if it doesn't, it would be worth considering sand/bead blasting the steel rotary valve you intend to use and getting it Black-Oxide/Phosphate treated......this process isn't prohibitively expensive to have done (many places that work with metal can do this), and there are some at-home / DYI-kits available if you'd rather take at go at it.

[@MrTJP777]

I'm learning because you're not giving up. Fuck yeah man! Keep growing We appreciate you.

[@brianpaul98]

Awesome video and I love your imagination and ability to improvise. Something I thought of when you were gluing the o-ring with super glue. Super glue is an acrylic not rubber so wherever you glue that o-ring it's not going to be soft and pliable like rubber it'll be more like plastic. Next time you do a pressure test see if the leaks are where you've glued the o-ring. You might have to get a one piece o-ring to solve the problem.

[@erniemathews5085]

Two strokes are mysterious to me, and that continues. When one works right I may learn more.

[@giuseppegalione1388]

Ciao, utilizza l'acciaio delle spatole per stuccare..per fare la nuova valvola..Un saluto dal Italia..👍🙋‍♂️

[@Blablablablabla-fe7gc]

Something i would suggest would be an 'optical' centre punch, very accurate

[@giverback]

if you make the valve slightly conical with a hole cut in it rather than an assymetric plate then the outer circumference could become a bearing surface and it would not vibrate nearly as much.

[@riccardobeninvenderecasa]

hey man!! carbon fiber valve eat every metal!! only ceramic is good! Gabriele Gnani 2 stroke guru in Italy said that in one of his video! Actually is a quite funny story 😂 he put a bath tile in the valve seat in 1987!

[@robbatley]

Ertalon LFX, an oil impregnated nylon, you can get it in sheet form might be viable to line the rotary valve surfaces. There is also a ptfe bearing cloth available but I'm not sure if that will be practical. Good luck.

[@mjodr]

I like how easy it starts now. I remember when we were all arguing in the comments about the pipe shape and then it turns out the reason it wouldn't start was a destroyed bearing. Hilarious.

[@Refnal01]

There are very helpfull websites that do the calculations on how deep you need to cut your O-Ring groves for it to seal properly depending on your application

[@piekcruson993]

I saw your latest video. I forgot to like it so i went back to like and found out it was deleted? Don't care, i love what you're doing! I want you to know this. That thing will sing by your hands!! Rock on bro!

[@hucker4life]

Have you ever looked at the rotax motors in jet skis or small planes they use a similar set up but use the oil injection to the rotary valve. I’ve taken apart ones with hundreds of hours on them apart and there is very small wear to the valve or housing! But every ski I’ve taken apart they have been converted to mixed fuel have had unbelievable wear an damage the housing an valve even almost new motors! I could send you a spare used oil injection pump will have to make some way to turn it but it is just an idea! May even have a few rotary valves I don’t need they have way less timing gap? Keep it up an keep working on it

[@Scissors69]

Totally agree with this

[@Bettinbig7024]

Cheers. Thanks for posting.

[@bradley3549]

Can you shim out the rotary valve on the shaft, away from the inner case, just a little bit more? Seems like that is a very possible difference between the new and old engine.

[@Diesr]

best channel ever i learn everytime

[@hansjmo]

I cant wait for the next episode, hope this valve combo works and we can see some power!!

[@joemgj]

Deler i tynt fjørstål kan du etse med strøm og saltvann. Du maskerer med lakk, riper omrisset og etser til slutt. (Litt som å etse printkort). Med denne teknikken ender du opp med en flat del uten sprekker. Teknikken er mye brukt for å lage reedventiler til pulsjetmotorer. Mvh Jogeir Emil

[@CrazyTony65]

The more I watch you and that rotary valve problem I'm beginning to think you have a thrust issue, maybe only under load. Do you have a positive thrust surface or just the bearings themselves?

[@mwasy2713]

We happy to hang on - love the fail big attitude continuing

[@judithmorris1288]

When drilling a hole through thin metal place a small piece of cloth on the end of your bit. It will get you nice round holes. Don’t know why it works but it does.

[@GlobalSLO]

We make rotary valves from spring steel 0.4mm thick. Drill one hole in a sheet for rivet and rivet together two central hexagonal washers. Than drill other holes for rivets trough the washers and place rivets around and rivet them along way. Like that you will have two washers riveted on sheet. Then use rotary tool and angle grinder to cut out the center and outside shape. Like that you get no distortion on sheet.

[@pidjones]

Cutting the o-ring a bit shorter will help it stay in the groove and not get cut. You can smooth the joint with 600 grit silicon carbide paper. Use >90% isopropyl to clean the o-ring. I always lubricate o-rings with silicone vacuum grease like Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease (which is bad for high vacuum, but a great inert grease).

[@fomrug]

Radial grooves will generate local hydrodynamic pressures that increase as the fluid layer thickness decreases

[@Trevorpartington-yc6ri]

Reed valve are the way to go, no timing needed for them, no stress on the crank shaft.... the engine just suck sin in what it needs. I like disc valves but only when they are working.

[@jjhack3r]

Better for us but reeds are more restrictive than rotary valve.

[@johnmitchell8188]

I took delivery today of a new rotary valve collar for my 1969 YA7. The old collar had worn on one side significantly, and as others have suggested, imbalance of the valve coupled with worn main bearings had probably caused it. My valve is 'asbestos cloth covered with phenolic resin to get freed of any troubles caused by heat and wear' it's 54 years old and seems to be usable. My max RPM is probably less than half of your fine machine though, keep on going we are all rooting for you.

[@nerd1000ify]

Phenolic composites (with cotton cloth) are really good materials for handling friction, even when the lubrication is poor. A bit of tufnol sheet would make a fine rotary valve, so long as it could handle the stress of spinning at such high rpm without breaking! It's a pity asbestos gives you cancer, as it's incredibly useful for so many things...

[@Hydrogenblonde]

"failure upon failure" don't despair, this is called "development". Companies have dozens of engineers working on a product and can spend 100s of millions of dollars and years to get it right. You are doing really well. I have made things and had trouble with the most simple component that you would have not given a single thought to. Keep going.

[@jamesdeath3477]

Couple of ideas. Can you make a counterweighted rotary valve? Also, how about something really hard like nikasil coating inside where the valve runs?

[@yvestaillefer7538]

Do you think about add oil injector on rotary valve? I know rotax engine (bombardier) made this type of engine with oil injector in rotary valve.

[@davidgierke7582]

It seems that the rotor-hard-driven-from the crank is causing an interference with the rotor backplate. All rotors that I'm familiar with have a little free-clearance to alleviate the binding/friction problem. A lightened cast iron rotor running on a hard-anodized aluminum backplate works. Don't dismiss adding a little castor oil to the methanol fuel mix to prevent heat-induced galling.

[@tigererickson8375]

Thx for staying on schedule

[@bluestripes1]

the rotary valve is such a mystery, glad to see you push thryu

[@turkeyboyjh1]

I know rotax jet ski and can-am dirt bikes use an oiler on the rotary valve it’s a pain because when deleting the oil metering pump you have to figure out how to keep pressurized oil on the front of the rotary valve

[@dillongreen1045]

Idk if anyone remembers me but I was not a believer in this project and I got hundreds of hate comments years ago but as an engineer I'm seeing alot of positive in your failure I think one day you will succeed if you stick at it

[@adamc1713]

I've been watching you since your PIP engine was just a CAD model and never knew the meaning.. I like it.

[@StevenTaylor-j8k]

Superb as always. Thank you👍

[@bostonbikebits6539]

For what it's worth I am going through a similar thing with my boost port engine. I have it running but I am still not convinced I have the right combination of parts. It seems to rev cleanly at high RPM but it won't run right at the bottom / middle rev range. I have followed your videos for some while now, I think I may start with a modern carb and see if that helps, it may be something as simple as float level, it could still be the barrel height. It is enough to drive you quite mad.

[@tomboxyz5564]

Something that I have not seen you do, which would probably decrease friction losses is using a coating like molykote d-6024 or d-7409 on the piston and rotary valve, those are anti-friction coatings, often found on piston skirts and such

[@joshuahstedman9346]

This is probably one of the most pragmatic solutions, given that you can put some of these ceramic "skirt coatings" on with a regular oven.

[@DnBL0ser117]

Exactly what i've been saying, I have used Cerakote's C-110 air cure formula. Very effective!

[@tomboxyz5564]

@@joshuahstedman9346 that's why I mention it, a friend of mine recently did that to I think a DT125 engine he's working on

[@Grooty79]

Dlc coating is also a very good idea, issue is the budget, Alex has minimal $$ and relies on the small amount of donations to keep the project going 🙂

[@david929190]

You mentioned the crank bending and effecting clearance and bearing load last episode. Maybe the rotating assembly needs to be balanced to reduce crank bending and the rotory valve contacting the side faces.

[@nerd1000ify]

The reciprocating loads from the piston and rod make perfect balancing impossible. Most singles are designed to balance 50% of the reciprocating forces which causes them to be 50% overbalanced on the rotating side of things. Sometimes motorcycle engines deviate from this because on a bike front to back vibration is less of a problem than up and down vibration. So with a vertical cylinder you might balance 60-70% of the reciprocating mass, which gives weaker up and down vibration at the expense of stronger front to back vibration.

[@Teararec]

This is a shot in the dark but it may help. you may be encountering a phenomenon called cold welding. what if you made a low friction guide out of Polybenzimidazole to keep the metals from sticking/touching. i do know thy do make 13b rotary seals out of the stuff and thy can last 40k miles and not leave chattering/grooves. it may work for you as well. it should be lubricated from the oil in the exhaust as well.

[@stoopidfast9049]

Alex, It's possible that your steel rotary valve is acting like a magnetic brake. It would explain a lot.

[@arvidraeymaekers2892]

I am not well known with rotary valves. But when the engin intake is closed, the valve gets sucked/pressed into the valve housing engine side? Maybe a balancing line or hole can help to even out presure on both sides of the valve. This is often used to even out bearing load in pumps or sealing presure in mechanical seals. Just a thought... Love your work btw.

[@JohnThomas-vb9se]

What about some sort of slipper coating like they use on the skirts of pistons? They also have a coating for aluminum that Steve Morris used on a high hp, high heat environment. It’s very tuff and slippery.

[@jasondreckmann3396]

It's possible that the carbon valve only wore out because the play in bearings was allowing it to contact the case and cover plate.

[@TheNumbers400]

Every posted video is a success in itself.

[@tomengman]

Hmm.. That "reputable source" of carbon fibre sheets wouldn't happen to be Carbonscout would it? Because i've had some issues and noticed that the sheets I got from them, around the same time you made that valve, are remarkably easy to mill.. Maybe too easy for T300 twill.. I don't wan't to throw them under the bus or anything, they are professional and seem like nice and real people + have good prices, but I suspect there was something odd going on in production for a while there.

[@malcrandall1309]

I'm very late in commenting on the disc valve problems but here goes. IMO the disc valve will be more stable if it could be mounted via a fine splinded adapter, this will help keep the disc more rigid. Do you have a engine you could rob one off. What about talking to Hollendaren for some advice on this and crank balance?

[@renedejong6386]

How to make your own sealing O rings , every size you need... With a master of disaster ! Get your selfs some silicone aquarium gleu /sealer (comes in black or transparant , smells like vinegar) find some right size air hoze ( 1mm air hose is probably hard to find , but does exists ) cut it to the right lenght , then try to pump the kit/glue/sealer in to the hose with kit-gun or syringe.... Then put the ends of the airhose to gether and put some stiky tape around it .. Then get a real sharp needle and punch some hole's trough one side of the airhose .. So the glue/sealer can cure by getting air to dry . when its dry cut the airhose carrefully away from the silicone ring you needed... If you have other ways to make a mold... So you can shape other stuff also ... Your free to go , wild ... Its like making a flying lure for fishing

[@Savage152]

Alex a while back someone suggested halving / doubling the gear ratio and making a mirror image rotary valve - spinning half as fast, but at least balanced - might also reduce load on the rest of the engine, all you'd need to do is move your timing pickups to the crank?

[@mistermacgray]

I wonder instead of trying to get the valve clearance just right with gaskets, use a wave washer to apply pressure. I've worked on a few 1950s chainsaw that have rotary valve intakes and they have a wear plate made of brass and an aluminum rotary valve on the crankshaft and between the plate and crank was a wave washer to keep reassure on the aluminum plate to the brass one that was on the side cover.

[@nemoafghan]

Have a look att the old husqvarna eggmotor. It has springloaded ballbearings for support

[@ziggyinta]

thanks for the upload!

[@theroteengineer8346]

Have you ever done a tolerance stack? I am probably teaching you to suck eggs here, but measure up each component and each free play element (end float etc). Draw it out, really simple, just a line with markers for the start and end of each component. Hopefully you will see where there is an overlap in the dimensions and where the error is.

[@The_Capt]

Wow, a cliffhanger ending! I've been watching a fair while, and can't remember a previous finish quite that abrupt! 😂

[@MrTJP777]

I hope you have an early version of the Ryobi fan there... The model I have included a battery and wall outlet option (ac or dc).

[@anthonycate4524]

Funny, you always leave us on a cliffhanger. 😂

[@joel383]

A proper cliffhanger too… Not even a warning!

[@AutoSportChanel]

Heisann! :) hadde det vært en tanke å gjort så den roterende ventilskiven roterte halvparten så fort og i steden hadde to cutouts til å slippe forbi fuel og luft ? Det ville jo løse ubalanse + at noe spinner halvparten så fort vil jo redusere laster på systemet ? Bare en tanke ! Ser alle dine videoer med stor interesse. Mvh Ole

[@viktorsmekaniska2733]

Maybe it is your cylindrical roller bearing in the engine letting the crankshaft thrust the rotary valve plate against the cover?

[@MrClaushk]

Rotary valve engines need an oil pump to lubricate the rotary housing and valve, if you run high revs premix isnt enough to make the valve catch any oil from the air going through the housing. And as a result the valve gets to hot from friction.

[@Dsw009]

Why not use 2 stroke oil between the case and the rotary valve? With a tiny oilpump that can be calculated in to the mix? Otherwise maybe nicaseal or polish the case?

[@adrianstreet8330]

A thought regarding friction in rotary valve. How about having the valve floating on the driver, allowing it float when not under vacuum. Much like a steam engine slide valve?

[@dominiqueghekiere7433]

Here is how you can easily machine thin metals. You paint the plate with a spraycan you scribe the cutline and then put electricity trought the plate while submergend in a electrolite the electricity will erode the bare metal but not the painted parts. Thats how reed valves for ramjets used to be made

[@tjingers]

I'm sure you probably already know this, but for what it's worth, bridgestone and kawasaki and others used phenolic resin type rotary valves back in the 60s. I don't think i've seen mine have any wear problems or spitting particles into the engine, but then they aren't revving to 20k. They would be nice and light and probably "inert" in a way if they were to break up.

[@pjwolf4357]

Good stuff always love watching. Would a balance shaft of some sort not help with vibration and threw that alot of things?? I'm sure it would be difficult just because how far along alone but food for thought. I know of plenty of machines that use them Yamaha blasters will do basically the same if the counter shaft isn't set right and basically vibrate itself to death.

[@ondrejskorunka9333]

I wondered if the wear of the rotary valve could be caused by its own vibration which could cause excessive oscillation (in general, the fatigue characteristics of a carbon fiber product are very dependent on the stress vs the orientation of its fibers).

[@impuls60]

Wouldnt the worn out bearings increase axial play making the valve plate rub more?

[@1jjma]

Can you balance the valve? Somehow add some weight to offset the stress of the rotation. Make it easier on the device.

[@ogKEGGY]

Look into the o-rings that mazda rotary engines use. You could buy one and then cut as much as you need out of it and glue it back together.

[@mtttony]

Looking great! When you remove mass from the piston or change the weight of the valve does this not unbalance the crankshaft?

[@alwaysonthego7013]

You said the roller bearing on the crank is to allow the crank to float. With the tight clearance on the rotary cover, the crank float may allow enough movement to be part of the problem. Also brp built some of the most successful rotary engines in snowmobiles and seadoo. They used brass plates and a steel valve!!

[@natereinhold6180]

Only one end floats. The other side is held axially by ball bearings, keeps the crank from binding while flexing

[@ggallin713]

was Also thinking Brass, especially with the aluminum housing. you need a rigid material.

[@Porcuponic]

Okay I got an idea. What if you added a small counterweight to the rotary valve? Not sure what kind of havoc this would wreak on housing for the valve. But on the valve itself it seems like there’s a great spot for some thicker metal around half of the hexagonal shape inside.

[@christophercastor6666]

Destined for greatness you are!

[@tobiasburgin7265]

I Love watching you!

[@alanegan8909]

I look forward so much to your video. I only wish I was there helping.👏👏

[@riceburner32]

Get some lubrication in the valve, 2 stroke oil injection pump with a fitting on the cover perhaps.

[@seeburg]

Would it work taking the valve friction away altogether? A thicker valve that doesn't flex and doesn't touch the housing. A tiny clearance ( like you have on a piston ring would not lose significant pressur/vacuum at the speed you want to run. Counter balance the valve outside of the cases to cure vibration from the heavier valve.

[@chyrt]

Getting closer everyday!

[@ChuckHaney]

So weird that you said what PIP stands for. After your last video I was curious as to what it meant and went searching the Internet for an answer. Couldn't find one.

[@projectpiratebikes]

How about dimples in the valve plate instead of grooves? Like the dimples in a golf ball.