3 PROVEN Methods To Getting Colder Air From HVAC Vents.

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[@ryanpetree6475]

Im out in Vegas and the dry heat makes this work even better! Its why swamp coolers work so well here.

[@bobhall5893]

That's why you see evap misters installed on outdoor restaurants out west. I live in Florida (plenty of humidity) but for only $100 I still went with the CoolnSave so it may take a bit longer to payoff, but it does drop the temp a bit.

[@nix4644]

I used the Cool-N-Save. Seemed like a good idea at first, but I didn't notice much difference on inside temperature. What I did notice was that the flap wouldn't always completely shut off the water when in the down position, so consequently always had a lot of wasted water on the ground around the unit in the morning. Save your money.

[@HerrMal]

From looking at comments and yours I agree, waste of money. You wouldn't ever notice a difference on the inside temperature because your thermostat is set to your preference. I think the idea is the house would cool a bit faster since there is a lower temperature coming out of the vents. Then the AC doesn't run as much and therefore lower your electric bill. Now, if you're talking about temperature coming out of the vent made no change and was the same. The product is even more of a waste of money.

[@nix4644]

@@HerrMal Your comment actually does make sense, I guess my point was that I didn't really notice any change in climate "behavior". When you live in a house as long as I have you tend to notice its "personality" if you will. For me nothing seemed to change except the puddle of water outside by the AC unit.

[@NischGTM]

It's a poor design for sure. I can think of numerous DIY options that would be more reliable.

[@keith3761]

you could hook up a solenoid to accomplish the same thing and hook that up to the fans relay, but that would require mild electrical skill most people dont have. Also If you KNEW what the problem was why did you not solve it by slightly increasing the weight of the FLAP????!!!

[@safeandeffectivelol]

You should turn the water off in the evening since the AC won't be running all the time at night

[@Paul-of2ve]

We live in Cyprus, 100F is a nice cool day, it's 112 today so getting bang for buck out of the A/C is something we are well practiced in! I would recommend regular cleaning of the filters, evaporator and condenser coils. Every year check the superheat, subcooling temps and pressures, they always need a little tweak! Make sure all the refrigerant pipes are well insulated. Think about where the condenser is located. You cant beat the modern microprocessor controlled inverter systems with electronic TXVs, WiFi diagnostics etc these allow longer lines quite often allowing the condenser to be placed up high where the wind blows out of the direct sun, and being inverter based with no 50's technology like start capacitors and all that rubbish, you can upgrade the power without upgrading your incoming electrical supply.

[@user-fv5yo5fi5c]

I love this channel, and the guy who runs it is really articulate and helpful. Some of the products he demonstrates though are not only grossly overpriced, but this thing looks super flimsy and cheaply made for anyone who lives in an area with super gusty winds. Even with multiple wind breaks around our yard, the winds coming in off our 13 miles of straight farm fields behind the house are nasty. We had a Class H roof (shingles) installed on our house. They're rated for winds up to 150MPH. I've had several blow off in massive wind storms. The beauty is the company guarantees them for 25 years. Every time we lose some, they come out and install replacements within a few days. Well worth the money we paid. Not knocking the guy, but these products are not for everyone and this one is ridiculously priced for what it is.

[@borshardsd]

Fair and accurate

[@cryptickcryptick2241]

Another method is to spray down the roof with a garden hose, or put a sprinkler on the roof. Attics tend to get 145 degrees in the sun. Spraying down the roof will cool it off and the water will evaporate. Due to laws of physics we know every one gallon of water that evaporates uses absorbs 9,000 BTU, (about the cooling most small window a/C units produce in one hour). In a power out heat wave, or on those super hot day when one might be desperate, it does have an effect. If my expereince, an average roof only holds a couple of gallons, and this needs to bee repeated every hour or so. All that cooling does not make it in house, but it does have some effect.

[@cryptickcryptick2241]

Obviously, all cooling on a roof does not make it into the house. The roof is the hottest part of a house. One can also spray down siding, bricks, windows and more. This method will not make the house "cool," but it will make it less hot.

[@freespirit1975]

On one of our trips to New Orleans, the wife and I took a "Swamp Boat Tour" and the medium sized boat was captained by a guy that grew up out there. Halfway throught the tour we were brought to a little, nearly flat-roofed building that was a restaurant. There were sprinklers running on the roof and water dripping off the edges. I asked the captain what that was all about and he said "Cajun air conditioning!" 🤣

[@cryptickcryptick2241]

@@freespirit1975 Interesting. Great story! I can totally see where that could work, especially with a large supply of free water that is relatively cool.

[@peckerpeter2078]

Get yourself an attic fan, Or those whirlybirds if you don’t mind holes in your roof, they help a ton. Air flow is key to get the heat out. Also, another good reason to point out the engineering errors of the HVAC world and running ductwork or putting units in the attc is a big no no ! As well as the ductwork never being properly sealed, should never be ran through an attic either.

[@haroldspaulding1673]

I remember seeing on t.v. What they called “Submarine Houses.” They were in the California desert between maybe Riverside and the Colorado River. I didn’t see the whole program but the houses were sunken down in the earth. Not buried, just like set down in a hole, down to roof level. Then they used some kind of drip or spray setup to circulate the water around the outside. I’m afraid I missed the most important part, but people seemed to like it. Dunno why they disappeared though, just that there were only a few left around. The narrator was Huell Howser. Just FYI…

[@lt5976]

Shading the unit seems the most practical.

[@America-First2024]

Yes. My hvac guy said not to. So it’s definitely a good idea.

[@jeremyh9033]

The issue is restricting the airflow around the unit, causing the fan to work harder. But surely you could shade an AC unit in a way that doesn't affect the air flow.

[@keith3761]

@@jeremyh9033 I think so as well, I also think you could put a "Slat" roof on as well, that would allow unrestricted airflow from the fan and give it shade!

[@BlondeBomber2u]

@@America-First2024 lol.... 🤣

[@safeandeffectivelol]

@@jeremyh9033 There's plenty of air flow. It's not like the board was directly up against the unit

[@pilotrserra]

You are amazing…I performed all three methods and the ac degrees were 5 degrees colder. We live in Florida. 5 degree colder is huge…I made my own system with copper lines and better flapper. The quality was poor from manufacturer. The concept works great but the product is poorly made. However, great idea….thank you

[@kayapre6944]

Which flapper did you use, would you please share a link or pic?

[@kellyspann9845]

I built a wooden cover over mine. It looks like a kitchen table . 4 legs and a plywood top and I covered it with plastic to protect it from rain and water sprinklers and it works great. I also made my own misters with very small PVC pipe and added the nozzles from the garden center that are already made up and that works very good and uses very little water. I barely have to turn the water on at all during the day It's only in the sun about 3 hours and then I turn it off. I live in Texas where so far it has been 100 to 105 degrees with 110 heat index for a couple of weeks.

[@stryf3901]

Also making sure your ducts are properly sealed and insulated even at the vent areas will help blow more cold air into your home, good video

[@D2O2]

I did the math on the "cool and save" last year when all the creators were affiliate marketing it. The numbers were not favorable. The electricity cost savings don't offset the cost of the unit and the reoccurring cost of filter replacement.

[@MEMcAndrews]

Or the cost of water… or… the ineffective evaporation in high humidity environments… or the headache of plugged nozzles… or the wasted water from failing shutoff wind flapper valve actuator… or the cost of scale damage to the coils. Don’t need a calculator - even - to immediately know this is just a REALLY BAD IDEA in practice.

[@fritzkabeano1969]

@@MEMcAndrews Yep.....but I suppose you could mitigate the water cost by capturing rain/gutter water and using some sort of solar powered water pump. Maybe use some of that burlap cloth they use to protect evergreens in the winter as your shade material w/pounded down 2x2x8's as your stakes to staple it to. Obviously the AC unit shouldn't be located on the sunny side of the house to start with if that's possible.

[@443DM]

I think the way to go with it is to "supplement" an undersized system when it's incredibly hot out

[@GimpGladly]

​@@443DMyup. A better design would allow it to come one when the outdoor temlerture is above 90-95°F or if the outdoor coil temp gets above a certain temperature. Obviously, it is meant to be a super easy DIY product, but there is a much better way ro implement the concept than the chinsy flapper. My thought has always been that this is a good idea as an assist on the few hottest days (or even hottest parts of a day really) not so much an efficiency booster.

[@Optimization_Coach]

I am going to tell you right now that the Cool N Save is just not robust enough for more than a season (my 2 units didn't last the entire season without issues). I bought 2 units (for my 4 ton HVAC) and both had issues. The owner was quick to ship new parts , but even the last flap went flying off into the yard. Nozzles leaked and I was not impressed at all. Beef them up and I will consider again, but not until then. That was just 1 Florida summer. Did I get 2 lemons? Who knows, but I wasted $200+ on them sadly

[@Jason-wc3fh]

It does look like a very gimmicky and temporary solution to a bigger problem. With my water, those nozzles would be plugged within 1 day if I didn't provide it with an aggressive pre-filtration system... Not too mention any water sediment buildup on the coil will become an issue for dissipating heat from the condenser. Providing a form of shade for a the condenser is the best approach. They are made to work in direct sunlight since many systems are rooftop units on buildings that are in sun all day long, but shade will keep discharge pressures down, which also keeps compressor happier and amperages lower.

[@user-fv5yo5fi5c]

Coach, I live in an area (farms) with massive winds on 4 out of 7 days. That cool and save unit wouldn't last a week here. When I went to the site, I lmao at the price. I hope a TEMU knock off specialist comes up with a beefed up unit for 25 bucks, I'll buy a few. I'm sorry yours didn't work out, but I appreciate you telling me what i suspected the minute I saw the unit.Our winds howl at 30 to 50 fairly regularly. so I don't even know if a beefed up unit would do the trick.

[@geoffgeoff3333]

​@Jason-wc3fh Sounds like you need a 1 micron whole house water filter with clear housing so you can see to change. I installed one in 1992 and saved $$ bc the refrigerator filters will function for several years and may never need replacing as I've never witnessed any difference in flow or water quality before/after changing them.

[@geoffgeoff3333]

I buy the filters by the case and save 50% - only $5/filter and typically change them twice/year. I also installed pre&post filter pressure gages so I know the filter is needing change when static pressure drop is 3 or 4psi.

[@TheSimba86]

sad to see this guy shilling this junk to his viewers

[@1frd1smth1]

Dear, sir have used my own design of this system for several years . Not only will you get cooler air, but it dropped current draw 2 full Amps . Lowering my electric bill.. now working on my own design to use rain water for cooling..good luck keep going

[@erojohn2]

Can you share your design?

[@Trotter152]

Maybe he will when it's for sale! It would be interesting to use rain water collected but that may not last long if there is a heat wave.

[@erojohn2]

I use patio umbrella to shade my 15 year old trane in hot days not sure it helps but trying to squeeze a few more years out of the unit. I do have a mini split for lanai. It may take some of the load off the main central unit.

[@1frd1smth1]

Have you ever thought about it? we extend the eves of our roof out past the house so the rain water will not damage the house, such as the foundation or building. And now we have ac units. 1) The very best spot for ac units is on the shaded side of the property near the building . 2) gutters are most likely close bye. 3) Place a storm water collection tank near the eve close to ac unit, allowing gravity feed of rain water directly to the unit to cool the ac units. Filter water going into tank 4) Electric valve to control water out put..thermostat and ac operation would control the valve. Please understand water cooler units. Not ac units were used in some SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA homes in 1970's I personally know this because I installed catv at this time. The use of the water cooling units was stopped not because they didn't work well at less cost, but lack of fresh water. That is how I decided water would be excellent to cool my ac unit . I live in York, PA now. We normally do NOT have a shortage of rain water.. Copper works the best for supply pipe..

[@1frd1smth1]

@@erojohn2 see below

[@jackl9922]

I did similar to my old 2-1/2 ton system for hot days. I wired in a 24v sprinkler valve, pressure reducer on water line, and misters feeding the coil. When I had the system changed out, haven’t repeated since it keeps up in the hottest temperatures. I no longer have easy 24v since went to a communicating inverter system. Hope nothing ever fails. I wired in surge suppressor on all units. I did not know when purchasing, not DIY friendly. Love variable speed systems, but if fails, $$$ and waiting for parts. Ouch if/when happens. All good now.

[@LFTRnow]

This video is missing an important piece that any AC tech would point out. It's all good to look at the cool air output but you also need to look at the intake temperature inside the house. The cooling is considered to be the subtraction between the temperature going into the intake inside the house minus the output temperature. If the house cooled throughout the testing by say 3° then there's been absolutely no gain whatsoever because the difference is still the same. Even the video itself comments that the set point was quite a few degrees lower than what the house temperature was at the beginning that is 74° was the house temperature and 70° was the set point. While the set point doesn't matter other than for keeping AC on it does suggest that the unit have been trying to cool the house down for the entire time that all this testing was going on, and it most likely did drop inside by a few degrees but I didn't see any updates of that. As I said if it did drop a few degrees then it's logical that you would see the same drop or close to it on the output register. Finally, never block your air conditioner vents outside. Blocking the airflow with drastically reduce the output considerably more than what you get from the shade. If you can find a way to shade it without blocking it too badly you may see some improvements in efficiency.

[@Kevin-mm6xm]

I agree with you and almost wrote the exact same reply. The only thing is shading has no effect on system performance. This guy is a nice guy but he is not a schooled HVAC mechanic, and I've seen him make beginner mistake after mistake watching his videos. Like many others on KZbin, it's about selling a product for the "small" commission they get on each sale and they don't have the expertise or experience to really know what they're talking about. Recently one tuber showed how to apply Triazicide, said he doesn't measure quantity but just "goes" with the spreader setting. Well he went with 10 lbs of product when to properly apply it he needed 130 lbs of product. But guess what? He didn't forget the link to buy Triazicide on his video!

[@keith3761]

@@Kevin-mm6xm Makes no sense, The shading would HAVE to have a effect, as if its condenser is cooler it has to work far less hard to condense the refrigerant and would be able to run a shorter cycle to reach the same level of indoor cooling. There are a few DIY videos on youtube where people have build their own misters and shown that it results in a drop of about 2.5 amps in draw and saves about 0.5 KwH and about 10$ a month. Internal house temperature would be reached sooner thus reducing total runtime of the condenser/fan/compressor.

[@Kevin-mm6xm]

@@keith3761 You don't do HVAC work. If you did, you would know that there is a specific subcooling temperature exiting the condenser that needs to be set, typically 8 to 12 degrees, depending on the manufacturer. This is the temperature of the liquid R410a going to your indoor coil. Changing the outdoor temperature doesn't change the subcooling of the refrigerant. High side pressures do increase as outdoor temps get higher, but your subcooling stays the same. You set subcooling by adding or subtracting refrigerant according to system pressure and coolant temperature. This is why it's total BS about misters or shade. Look online at commercial rooftop units and you will see zero shading, especially in Las Vegas and eastern California where the outdoor temps hit 110 degrees. It's a nice idea, but shading does nothing to your AC unit.

[@keith3761]

​@@Kevin-mm6xm what your saying makes no thermodynamic sense. If it's HOTTER on the condenser the refrigerant will have a harder and longer time pushing that heat OUT of it as the coils and into surrounding air will be less willing to take the extra energy. As for saying that X is not done in Las Vegas and California. There are plenty of things that are NOT done that should be. And If you DO install HVAC units what does the manufactures installation manual say? That is right it says to install it on the shadiest part of the house. If what your saying is true and thermoclime did not matter there would no need to clean the condenser and keep it free of debris because it could push out as much heat as it wanted no matter the resistance! so Yes you should clean your condenser coils! WHY? so that the unit can push out heat into the air! Now what type of air transfers/accepts heat the easiest?! dense air! what air is most dense?! cold air! Your unit will have to run for less time to transfer the same amount of energy to the air thus saving you money by reducing run time. So misting the air and making it dense would make a difference as well as having your unit in the shade thus making it cooler at start up. Now yes once your unit is running and hits its peak temperatures the shade will no longer matter much at all, but on start up your unit will have started much cooler than one directly in the sun.

[@davidherrera2859]

If your coils are clean inside and out side and the unit is sized correctly, you should have no problem!

[@keith3761]

depends. extreme heat waves, location the AC unit was placed with regards to the sun/shade. Also your units inside furnace coils could become partially clogged. Also in high temps your local grid will be under a lot of stress. reducing that saves you money and may prevent a blackout/brownout, this also reduces how hard your AC unit has to work so that's less chance of breakage or wear. really I don't know why its not required to do this very cheap and simple stuff like shade when they all claim to care and energy efficiency and the environment. doing this to large commercial roof mounted AC units etc would save a ton of grid load during peak hours!

[@davidherrera2859]

@@keith3761 been in the HVAC service industry for 30 years

[@yinggamer7762]

Bro starting the video with a 13 degree split 💀

[@brenninwatts1249]

@@yinggamer7762 Yeah the split wasn't good to begin with. Should probably make sure everything is clean, charged correctly and airflow set up correctly too. Alot of people don't know how any of this stuff works and will likely use products like this even when it's not that hot because they like there homes freezing cold and in the low 60's to high 50's all the time. Then they will wonder why their coil is frozen or compressor went out. Showing people how to artificially raise the subcooling can cause more problems in the long run if they don't know what they are doing.

[@chaschanthraboutda3228]

Very educational! Thanks

[@bigredwag]

Maybe a vid now on how to best clean the hard water build up that will likely occur over time from the mister? Thanks for the great content 🤙💪

[@oldman8277]

That’s for sure! 😂

[@ZERO-F2G-]

Maybe a vid on how to trick the manufacturer into warrantying a coil damaged by snake oil?

[@jonsaircond8520]

You don't get it clean again but hey who cares just make the video. Anybody I've ever seen that actually gets these to work a season or more coils are toast. Maybe just maybe in a extreme low humidity area these might be ok but certainly not where I live

[@brianwilless1589]

I had the cool n save and after one season it quit shutting the water off fully. I bought a $10 24 v shark bite type valves and wired it to the contactor. Works better. Next time if I buy the parts separate it seems half price too. YES i changed the filter! You gotta clr the misters too and flow them out.

[@sentryfe74]

You can check the static pressure / airflow chart. A lot of systems are installed with the default highest blower speed tap. Changing the tap down one speed will remove more humidity and make a colder coil.

[@texputter7928]

Good stuff, thanks for sharing!

[@stevenslater2669]

Rheem marketed a domestic (as opposed to commercial) central air system back in 1957 with a water spray manifold which cooled the condenser coil. One of my dad’s commercial refrigeration customers had another hvac outfit install the Rheem unit in his home. He had so much trouble with the water spray components that the installer stopped taking his calls. So my dad’s customer pressured my dad to repair the damn thing. It really was a well designed system but city water in Philly was hard enough to plug those little nozzles on the spray bars pretty quickly. I got the assignment to ride my bicycle over to the customer’s home a couple times a month and clean out the nozzles. I used a welder’s nozzle cleaner. And I recall having to replace the needle & seat on the water feed inlet (like a mini toilet tank). Unlike the add-on misting system you demonstrated, the Rheem system was designed to water cool the condenser coil. If the water didn’t spray the system would go out on high pressure overload. After 2 seasons of.cleaning those nozzles, my dad talked the customer into a new, straight air cooled condensing unit. Home central air was not common in those days. Rheem had a good idea - they just didn’t account for real-world water quality. We had another commercial customer who insisted that my dad install a commercial AC system in his home. We did- complete with a stand-alone fan-coil unit (not an A-coil above the furnace) and a small cooling tower. Super reliable but very expensive.

[@munozinni]

Hola 👋 señor Dave !!! Here in Texas we are going to have 100 degrees today and the rest of the weekend 😢summer in Texas is brutal 🥵

[@jean-lucgordon4899]

Should also look at running amps of the system in the various set ups. I did a similar test and found that my 4.5 ton unit ran at 3.4 kW. With a mist applied it ran at 2.5 kW. That's where the savings comes from. The compressor doesn't have to work as hard and if done right something like this should save about 30% on electricity. I also just made my own with a sprinkler solenoid and one of those misters for a patio

[@prestonrenify]

We appreciate all you do to help us maintain, repair and operate our HVAC more efficiently...and save a buck or two. Thanks

[@flyguy437]

Good demonstration. I wondered.

[@WaffleStaffel]

While these systems can improve performance, it requires more than just installation, you have to measure line temperatures and amperage to know whether you're helping or actually hurting. Cooling the condenser won't result so much in lower indoor temperatures, rather, it will reduce energy consumption and increase cooling capacity. The caveat is that excessive subcooling can cause the TXV to starve the evaporator, and increase superheat, resulting in warmer indoor temperatures and a hotter compressor. You can fine tune this to get a good balance, but you must measure more than just temperature at the vent. Also, you must have good soft city water with low TDS/dissolved minerals, or use RO filtered water.

[@GimpGladly]

I've been making a similar point for years when this product comes into season. It really shouldn't be marketed as an efficiency booster, but as a cooling supplement. Unfortunately the way it is implemented with the chinsy flapper and all it is just not a good product. Now, if the misting could be controlled bassed on outdoor temp, or coil temps/sub cooling, tied to similar controls like the defrost cycle timer on a heat pump it could really be a big help during the few hottest days or hours, say 95°F+ ODT. This would largely mitigate (but not completely prevent) possible issues from mineral buildup and the like as well as reduce filter changes and water use over all. Unfortunately then, the only unique peice of this product that is not an off the shelf part (the flapper) is completely unnecessary and it becomes a much less accessible DIY product that costs $5 to make and sells for $120.

[@WaffleStaffel]

@@GimpGladly It's funny how polarizing a subject it is in the HVAC ""expert" community, with most saying there's absolutely no benefit and all risk. A 30% improvement in efficiency/capacity to _supplement_ your system in extreme weather is nothing to sneeze at. Yeah, the price is a bit shocking given other misting options, and the the niche is people desperately trying to squeeze more life/capacity out of an old or undersized unit. I just went outside and turned mine on and off, since we only have maybe 20 days out of the year which are over 90f. The doors to homemade tech have been thrown wide open in the last few years, maybe someone will come along with an accessible DIY project as you've described. I can't imagine the circuitry costing much more than $10, plus a solenoid, nozzles, filter, line. Nothing on SourceForge yet.

[@MCOult]

I've known for decades that it's a bad idea to block the out-flowing air; it increases the load on the fan motor. However, I helped my system (we routinely get 100+ temps in the summer): I built a "cage" out of 2"x4"s and put two layers (separated by the thickness of the lumber) of solar screening near the condenser (about 12" away from the top, sides, and front. The sides go all the way to the ground, anchored by garden staples; the front goes about 3/4 of the way to the ground. It doesn't seem to block the out-flow of air, but I can always increase the distance away from the unit if I think it does. It seems to cool the unit a degree or two, but I don't know if it's made much difference inside the house. I didn't do it to cool the inside of the house; I built the contraption to help reduce the stress on the condenser. It probably helps a bit, though it might negate the cooling effect by increasing the air temperature near the condenser. Another version, which I might try, would be to put the screening only ABOVE the unit (several feet higher), not near the sides or front. I think that would eliminate any potential increase in air temp near the unit.

[@magnus9165]

I live in AZ and our city draws well water. This water is extremely hard with high mineral content. It is extraordinary. I notice Cool and Save will not ship to my address, so I am so glad I was not allowed to order. Just a heads up, because I am sure that many places in AZ are like this. Even those places that have Colorado river water, the water is very hard high mineral content.

[@user-ln7vn9qx8m]

Love your videos.

[@vincentwilkes9611]

The cool n save works. I have had 2 of them and my only complaint is the valve mechanism does not last. 1+ Season throwaway even if you store it during cold weather.

[@N-M424]

With regards to shading, there have been numerous studies conducted that arrive at the same conclusion. One done by the Florida Solar Energy Center concluded that "any savings produced by localized AC condenser shading are quite modest (

[@mickhvac3908]

I would say if you find this helps an old unit get through a tough summer thats great. If you plan on doing this with a newer unit it you are risking the coil integrity long term. Depending in your water composition you can take a big chunk of life span off. This may also void your warranty.

[@kevinclws]

I've also hosed down the outside wall of the house and patio pads in direct sunlight, to reduce heat load inside

[@lnwolf41]

The biggest effect is that it reduces the stress put on the system. The ideal temp range of a heat pump is 40-75 degrees. I would buy 3 more misters add a splitter and have 2 nozzles on each side, to ensure complete coverage of the coils, as well as a shade cover. FYI most of the old style window AC units from the 60's & 70's were set up to have the condensate to flow to the fan outside so it would splash it up onto the coils to improve its cooling system.

[@walterreil4001]

Thanks for the good intentions. Shading, while maintaining decent air space around the unit, sounds like a good possible improvement. And washing the coils occasionally can be good to keep the coils cooler and cleaner. But, as others have mentioned, the continual fine spray around the inlet vents over time will be picking up dust and coating the coils in a buildup of dirt. And for those of us who constantly battle hard water, not only can that hard water be a challenge to the spray unit (changing filters constantly), but also that hard water is also covering the inlet louvers and coils, building up over time. I think the fine spray unit can be far more troublesome for the condenser than occasionally washing the coils with strong pressure from a hose to keep the coils clean. When washing with a hose, it would also be a good idea to have a screw-on water filter to reduce impacts from hard water. It is a never ending battle, especially for those of us living in dry, dusty areas. Truth is, many people just forget about their condensers, with some home owners allowing plants and grasses to grow up around the condensers dramatically impacting condenser air flow. Owners need to have the smarts to clear all growth from around the condensers and check a couple times a year to insure best operation of the condenser. Thanks again for your thoughtful video.

[@nguoiviet41VIDEO]

enjoy your videos thanks

[@mjs28s]

3 degrees is a great improvement considering that you are using the same power draw so you might as well get that air that is 3 degrees cooler coming out of the vents in the house. At least everyone should try to shade their unit if it sits in the sun at all.

[@arnoldfrackenmeyer8157]

Thank you for this review. You mentioned hard water. I'm curious what it might do the coil over the long run. I would be concerned about corrosion.

[@NackDSP]

Adding a radiant barrier in the attic is the most effective thing I've done. It's like moving your whole roof into the shade. It is basically like a foil covered Tyvek product that can be laid on top of attic insulation or stapled to the under side of the roof rafters. Obviously shading the AC unit will help, but putting the whole thing on the N side of the house where it can draw are from a large shaded area is even better. Spraying the AC coils and fins with water will cause all the minerals in that water to get deposited on the fins, effectively insulating and choking the AC unit over time. I wouldn't do that unless you have very soft water, like from the mountains. I would expect most well water would be trouble.

[@fritzkabeano1969]

But I wonder if your radiant barrier is now "baking" your tar based shingles/drying them out and causing another headache.......

[@Moseeplo]

Who puts a condenser unit inside the house? You want the heat moved out the house not inside. You are right about the minerals being deposited on the unit. I would love to see where they put condenser units inside the house. Maybe somewhere where it's extremely cold.

[@brucebillst]

@@Moseeplo @NackDSP was not recommending to put the condenser unit inside the house. When he said "N side" he meant the "North side" of the house, not the "Inside" of the house. He was suggesting the north side has more shade. Thanks.

[@Moseeplo]

@@brucebillst Gotcha, Thx.

[@scoobtoober2975]

Very good info. I'll try the radiant barrier maybe this year or next. We have lots of tree shade, but one side is exposed.

[@Braveheartman123]

Shading your condenser with palm or other trees is more important than gimmicks that will shorten the life of the coils (like those water misting devices).

[@scottrandall8502]

Agreed. The mineral filter better do a great job, otherwise mineral deposits on the coils will make the unit VERY hard to keep clear.

[@Jnu925]

Given the advancements in technology, one would expect more durable, efficient air conditioning units that are energy-conserving. However I do appreciate the helpful tips..

[@kleetus88]

This is the best channel, seriously. Thank you. Question: I wonder how this evaporation technique would work in Florida where it is very very humid almost all the time.

[@MEMcAndrews]

Won’t work relative to the cost and damage.

[@lpad9651]

My air conditioner is on the south side of my house. The hot sunny side. I put up a 5 foot by 6 foot sun canopy over it. I did it so it would work easier, with less strain. Runs less. I tried a mister. All that did was leave rust stains from my hard water.

[@andreloudon8934]

When putting a canopy over the condensing unit, make sure you don't restrict the airflow which would be counterproductive.

[@lpad9651]

@@andreloudon8934 Oh yes. I understand. This I can stand under. Height is adjustable. It's meant to be taken to the beach or on a picnic for shade. Sells on Amazon. Folds up for non-summer.

[@nhojcam]

as soon as i saw the product, i was like nah, that doesn't look like it'd last more than a couple weeks where i live (florida). we have torrential rains and high winds here throughout the rainy season / summer months. firstly, my recommendation is that the HVAC manufactures start painting their condensers white or tan. the dark colors are just no good. also, the single biggest improvement to getting cooler air through the vents would be to get the condenser shaded without restricting air movement in/out of the condenser. the misting water idea may only work for a short time, even with filtration...the nozzles will calcify.

[@johncraig406]

problem with misting water over the coils, some of us have Rural Water with an Extremely High Sodium and Mineral content. by the end of the summer, the fins will be clogged up with mineral deposits, not good. a better solution, though not easily done, is to create a Swamp Cooler housing around the HVAC unit, so it does not have water falling directly on the fins, just the cooler air from the Swamp Cooler pads.

[@anonymous..-]

You could build a robust watering system using a 24 volt irrigation valve and connect it to the HVAC 24 volt system then to misting hoses.

[@lklpalka]

About 15 years ago I made my own rig to accomplish this and it really did work. I used common garden misting heads and the thin pvc tubing. The compressor had a defective heat limit switch that would shut down sometimes for hours until I cooled it. Mine was a hard water area so I only used it for two seasons until i replaced the system, but the idea definitely did work. Don't think this mist device existed yet. For major heat events or to help a weak system it makes sense, just not always.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

Example. R22 takes away 70 BTU per pound of liquid turning to vapor. Spraying water on the condenser won't change that. Plus you'll lower the head pressure too much, liquid pressure is related to head pressure which means the evaporator will be getting less refrigerant, which actually lowers the BTU capacity of the system. I tried that in 1978. Then I learned how AC systems work. Bad advice

[@mybrotherkeeper1484]

@@Bryan-Hensley If I understand correctly, I conclude Nothing helps

[@Bryan-Hensley]

@@mybrotherkeeper1484 the refrigerant is in a delicate balance. It's designed to work within a certain head pressure. If it was designed to work with condenser water cooling, it could save a little bit of energy. Aka ground loop systems.

[@ZERO-F2G-]

@@Bryan-Hensley 36 year HVAC vet and I couldn't agree more. Also it effects R410-A even more than R-22, and who knows what it will do to R454-B. But snake oil and snake oil salesmen will always be around.

[@jamesnasium4035]

I mean, no one has a time machine, but one should try to install the outside unit on a side of the house where it will be in the shade during the peak afternoon heat. Any additional shading should ensure that it is not blocking the unit from venting heat efficiently. As far as spraying the unit with water, I am dubious that it is a long term solution, as surely mineral deposits will build up in the fins even with some half-baked water filtering system.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

My cover is ametal ro0of on a close to a 45 slope. Enough to keep the ice off the house roof off of the condenser. I could spray water on it but it's not necessary yet. Thanks!

[@QuinnTheVegan]

Cooling a condenser with water seems like a good idea but is creating more work for the compressor and thus, shortening the life. (Learned this in refrigeration school)

[@johnw6908]

Love the floor registers on the ceiling.......Switching to curved blade single direction supply grills with no dampers would offer more benefit than any of those gimmicks. A properly sized and designed system would be a great place to start though.

[@mehmd1913]

So the thing that I’d be concerned about is short cycling. Blowing out cooler air will allow you to reach set temperature quickly but potentially at the risk of poor dehumidification. What is the humidity in your home. Checking before and after humidity levels is also necessary.

[@GreyRockOne]

Another thing to check is the return (suction) line insulation, if it's flaking, drying and falling apart as they all do, replace it and thoroughly cover the return line. Home centers have it

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks for this! I will be doing a video on this soon. Best, Dave

[@Hawkins1]

I agree - there are scores of articles and releases that indicate no tiny filter is going to stop the mineral deposits. While normally good advice, you shoudl have addressed the "cons" of using this product and leave the risk up to the consumer. For someone with a brand new (or newer) unit, this will reduce the life by more than 50% most likely. MIght not be as bad for someone with an older unit trying to squeeze a couple more years out of it...

[@user-lq3hq1vp5q]

Hey, hot climate bought locally will handle the heat. They are engineered to do this. By the way seen black dirt coming from condenser. It’s dirty needs proper cleaning. Coastal units. On the beach units have a coating on them to expand the life expectancy due the salt. I liked and subscribed to you. What’s up next?❤

[@mtbbiker6401]

How about just soaking the ground near the condenser, that might also help cool the surrounding air as the water evaporates. If you have grass, even better. This should eliminate scaling due to hard water as the water will evaporate but not the minerals. In Southwest where it's super hot, there are many roof top units so not sure shade plays a major role in cooling since none of them are shaded.

[@middle-agedmacdonald2965]

What about a swamp cooler bowing right on the a/c? I realize it's a waste of energy, but it's be interesting to see how cool it could keep it? They could even integrate cooler pads into the vents? I'm guessing the rust/corrosion would destroy the a/c, but it's al interesting to think about.

[@obwan7217]

The mister installed on the condensing unit rots the coil at a rapid rate especially in Florida..If you do the math of coil replacement (condensing unit replacement ) vs the saving while misting, its a loosing scenario.

[@ncdave4life]

That's what I would worry about: corrosion of the coils. I wonder what Goodman says about warranty coverage, when one of those mister / swamp cooler gadgets is installed?

[@jamkpa]

Question: I have an older 24 year old York condenser. It has a two bladed fan. Would it help if I replaced the two blade fan with a three blade fan? Just the blades.

[@freespirit1975]

Good vid. I'm a big fan of evaporative cooling, BUT, this invention would work best in a lower humidity climate. In the US, that would be anywhere besides the humid subtropical climate of the SE US. And if you live within 200 miles of the Gulf of Mexico, you can, as they say in NYC, "fuggetaboutit!" For years I have had one of those fans that mist the air with the same exact mist tips that your product uses. Last week we were putting up gutters and tried to use it. It was in the mid to upper 90s and the dewpoint was in the low to mid 70s-very steam bath like. The drops of water mist didn't have a snowball's chance in hell of evaporating and just fell to the ground or just landed on us making us wet sitting near it. Now when it is lower humidity with a dewpoint in the 60s, it works very well, but then again, at that dewpoint, your sweat can evaporate so all you need is a plain old fan anyway. On this product, the mist actually hitting the fins WOULD work some, but you gotta worry about rust forming on the metal cabinet louvers before long. Having a shade tree over your condensor is the best way if you can keep the leaves out of it.

[@noblekitty]

The condenser unit is not removing heat using its casing. Unless you can find a way to shade a huge volume of outside air all around the side of the house, that little plywood is not making much difference. Also, using tap water will cause damage to your coil. Prolonged misty air will corrode the aluminum coil fins. That little hard water filter is not good enough to get rid of all the bad stuff.

[@user-fv5yo5fi5c]

I disagree, he just proved otherwise. My A/C units are 13 years old and we get toms of summer rain and brutal winters. The fins are holding up perfectly well. Nowhow much longer will the units last??? I have a feeling we're near the end of life on both of them. LOL

[@middle-agedmacdonald2965]

I'm with you. Introducing more moisture into a system like that seems like bad juju. I was thinking that a small swamp cooler could be used to blow air at the a/c coils, but the extra energy/upkeep most certainly wouldn't be worth it.

[@noblekitty]

@@user-fv5yo5fi5c believe me man, I've tried the same system with my old unit. After few weeks, scaling and erosion built up on most of the fins area, and the performance is worse. Now the design of the system is sound and physically feasible. But I am telling you right now that the source of water is important here, tap water is no where like rain water. Also, keep in mind that this system works in dry heat, not where the humidity is already high.

[@user-fv5yo5fi5c]

@@noblekitty bro, our tap water here is disgusting. Rain water has a fair amount of pollution and acid in it at times. Either way, I don't know enough about the science to debate it from a level of great knowledge, so I bow out. Enjoy the weekend my friend

[@superspeeder]

@@user-fv5yo5fi5crain water isn’t exactly clean, but it’s not full of dissolved minerals that will build up and reduce the efficiency of your AC coils over time like most tap water will.

[@84swoodworth]

Can you go over the best settings for the ecobee

[@mcnamber]

Any videos on heat pumps pros and cons. Just bought a house with a moovair heat pump. Never heard of them. Apparently works to -30 c.

[@ptkx1877]

Word of caution, last summer I did rig up some water misters to my outside AC unit similar to what you suggested. It worked, but next day my AC was blowing semi-cold air. Called an HVAC tech out and found that my interior coils were completely frozen over. Turned out that my system was low on coolant, and the water on the outside coils caused the system to run too cold and ice over. $2k later, they converted my system over to a newer coolant but I am hesitant to put water on my outside coils again.

[@443DM]

what happens when it rains and it's hot?

[@ptkx1877]

@@443DM I'm not sure... I am in California so that never happens.

[@geniusliu143]

hi, are u able teach , how to hook up gauge for subcool and superheat to rtu package unit .

[@wayne5607]

I'm an HVAC tech and I would like to see you take the shade off the condenser and turn the water off and see if the temperature goes back up 3 degrees. I don't think it will. The condenser condenses the Freon from a gas back to a liquid then returns it to the evaporator coil where it basically turns to a mist evaporates and gets cold.. Cooling down the returning liquid 10 degrees is not going to reduce the coil temperature probably at all,. The longer the system runs the colder the system will get so 1 degree per hour or more would be normal as ducts and stuff cool. If this was a package unit where everything is in one case then shading it would help. Keep your filters clean and your vents unblocked and don't run restrictive air filters because it's an AC system not an air purifier your slowing down your airflow. Have a nice day.

[@daveday8132]

Looking at the exterior of that older house mid 70s inside heat of the day. id take it

[@davejoseph5615]

I designed a prototype water spraying unit like that back in the 1980's but I couldn't see any effect on my electric power usage so I deemed it a failure.

[@DiscoingGD1989]

Here's a question. In places that are hot AND humid (like FL), the AC will drain gallons of basically distilled water during the day. I try to save as much as I can and water plants with it, but that if a misting system like this could tie into that? You'd need a pump, but no real filter or additional water required. I think that could be real money maker.

[@Spiderpig47345]

This is only useful if your AC is undersized and can’t maintain temp on its own. They regulate cooling with a txv valve. The constant water will accelerate corrosion of the coils.

[@mikelliteras397]

Better off putting hedges around it to block the sun. Water will corrode the coils quicker. I have run water on the coils to get through the night when a fan motor goes out, but I’ve replaced units that had sprinklers running on them and a lot sooner than they should’ve been replaced.

[@DSC800]

Would be nice to see a way to use condensate to cool the condenser for something of a self cooled system. On a 90+ degree day my 3 ton unit will produce 6 gallons of pure water. I bet if a condenser was close enough to the evaporator it could be done with a condensate pump. Plus there's no minerals in the water to plug up the nozzles.

[@443DM]

that's what windowshakers do: they have a drip tray and the condenser fan will hit the water and splash the coils. When it's really humid, the drip tray ends up overflowing and raining down on everything/everyone below.

[@GaryL3803]

The issue with misting is that the coils are warmer than the ambient air being drawn in and the mist is using tap water which leaves mineral deposits on the fins of the coil. An easy test is to pour a bit of water on a painted surface and see how much water spots are noticed after drying. Those water spots are minerals in the water and will accumulate on the fins of the coil. EDIT: misspelling

[@Cleft2982]

The direct sun was on the other side of the house when the cool n save was installed. What would it do in direct sun? Not convinced it makes that big of a difference.

[@superspeeder]

Shielding your AC unit from the sun is a good idea, but constantly soaking it with water is not.

[@fallm9447]

Are you ever going to take off the plastic screen shipping cover from the Ecobee thermostat screen?

[@user-rr2ne8tp2e]

HUMIDITY ON LVL💯

[@mariop8576]

If I'm running a heat pump at my house, do I need to turn of the misting system during the cold months?

[@adrianofernandes7767]

What do you recommend for side discharge condensing units?

[@johnknightiii1351]

Can you show if there is a temperature difference if the line set insulation is bad and how to fix it

[@jimmycreamer7905]

I may add something that most people even probably yourself do not realize behind your thermostat. There will probably be a hole way too big for the thermostat wire. This is in a cavity, which is more than likely drawn air from the attic from the hole for the wire when it comes on the return is pulling air out of that cavity and through the back of the thermostat, thus causing the sensing of the temperature to be higher than normal simply seal the hole behind the thermostat where the wire penetrates the wall after 35 years in this industry, you would be surprised with the results are. This is probably the most overlooked issue in many homes and businesses. you can have a 20° delta T all you want, but if the unit is not satisfying, it will not shut off, especially the lower. The point is. we do this with air over condensers on big stuff due to the fact that the coils are destroyed but system still runs we go to Home Depot. We buy misters in the irrigation department and we run water over the coils lowers head pressure dramatically, but you’re also wasting a lot of water.

[@jeepguylv80]

we never get a break from the sun out here in vegas and it has been 105 to 112 every day, I was thinking about building a shade and adding the mister system with the filter (hopefully it helps since our water is soo bad), just curious what your recommendation for spacing above the fan if I were to shield it. thanks .

[@MEMcAndrews]

Don’t do it. Read more comments before you waste a lot of money and risk damaging your system.

[@lowman9387]

Aftermarket equipment put on buy homeowners...yes keep it coming. We will be sure to replace your whole system

[@curtischadd]

Link to the cool and save please. Great video

[@MEMcAndrews]

Don’t do it. Read more comments before you waste a lot of money and risk damaging your system.

[@TheKingOfInappropriateComments]

I have my condensers underneath my deck and it's so noisy. Even with the motor blankets on they are annoying to sit near or above them. I've thought many many times about moving them somewhere else but they'd no longer be shaded. But I feel like they'd have more air movement around them to expell the hot air that's coming out of the unit and then just sitting there and not really going anywhere.

[@keith3761]

We need someone on youtube to make a DIY version that uses a ac or dc electric water solenoid wired into the fans relay using good quality misters and off the shelf high quality water filters.

[@edwardwd3zk]

I thought u said before it’s a bad idea to put a cover because it restricts air circulation on the condenser ugggggggh . Make up you mind!

[@southside6924]

It’s definitely a bad idea I wouldn’t do any of this I was taught not to do any of these things besides cleaning the unit with water for a while

[@Russsir]

When the water evaporates over time does it not leave a build up of lime type minerals on your coil?

[@simon134]

It's my understanding that while the misting system works, it will prematurely rust and corrode the Condesor coils and shorten lifespan of the unit....thoughts?

[@larry6315]

Yes it decreases the condenser fan motor life. Do not forget the water bill. The trade off is not the best. I installed my new unit in the back of the house which is out of the Evening Sun. Shade plays a big part in the efficiency of an AC unit. Big part I do not see is getting a yearly cleaning of the condenser unit. Condenser coils should be cleaned yearly.

[@kennethjohnson4732]

I was just thinking the same thing even though the coil copper is surrounded by aluminum it would speed up the corrosion process and also rust the housing.

[@johnnywonka1211]

yes the hard water will corrode the coil and add hard water deposits on your coil , you need to have the coil cleaned every season, the efficiency of this type of sys also depends on the humidity in the air, humidity above 20% is pointless, as this type of sys works off of evaporation,also the temperature in the house has an effect on the temperature coming out of the vents, the supply air is always going to be around a 20 to 25 degree split, so as the temp in the house drops the air supply coming out of the vents also drops......

[@unintentionalprovocateur2158]

Yes, I agree. More corrosion than rust. Also, is water free where you guys live?

[@kennethjohnson4732]

@@unintentionalprovocateur2158 Maryland

[@markdavidson1049]

On a somewhat separate topic, it would be interesting to see what your water bill for the month might look like as this is akin to an almost constant leak.

[@hanky640]

Tried this 20 years ago. The corrosion damage to the condenser unit parts was not worth the savings. Residential HVACs are not engineered for the constant moisture and mineral deposits. Efficiency good at first but the condenser fins eventually accumulate mineral deposits and debris, thus decreasing heat exchange. Mine was a Trane heat pump. Condenser fan siezed/failed as did the reversing valve solenoid.

[@Sfalco_16]

If I recall DIY HVAC is from Utah, which has hard water, so you would see hard water build up. I had this same thought while I was watching the video, not worth it due to hard water build up. Even with the filter, I don't think it would be effective enough to prevent mineral build up or other corrosion issues as you mention.

[@Cotronixco]

I don't use a condensing coil and fan (refrigerant-to-air) for AC because it's inefficient. I use my swimming pool to cool the refrigerant instead. What a difference.

[@Ryan-ch1kx]

Is there any thing you can do for minsplts like a normal AC units

[@j0m026]

Should add in amp draw

[@VovanCBR]

would be cool to monitor power consumption as well during this test, kinda ez to add AMPs metter

[@davidb2438]

I’ve done that, it does drop power consumption, the issue is mineral deposits will in time ruin your coils

[@VovanCBR]

@@davidb2438 what about to use distilled water? or at least use some kind of filter

[@davidb2438]

@@VovanCBR having clean coils is the thing that you should focus on, coils are engineered for air cooling. Constant drip of water on coils could cause mold and possibly corrosion. Maybe in someplace like Arizona it would work.

[@VovanCBR]

@@davidb2438 this been used in car racing/drifting for a decade and all good, really nothing new in this technology

[@gregs250]

I wonder if the difference would be less in a climate with high humidity.

[@BillyBobDingledorf]

When you put the mister on, the whole thing was in the shade. Would have been good to set a new baseline with the misters off.

[@Michaelthearcheangel]

So I keep my ac 68 in my new home in summer for last over 3 years in my new home with very high ceilings one day this summer AFTER over 3 summers I looked up and noticed we have ceiling fan that have NEVER been used now we keep ac at 78 ( higher temp if fans on higher) and its very cool inside. I feel so incredible dumb. But my new solar home likes it a bit better in summer.

[@Niranjan_Desai]

Installing HVAC system on North is best way to go as sun never hits north directly. When unit is heat pump means using for heat during the winter not much advantage installing on North.

[@kangaroogod]

While this does make sense,, using a supply only, temperature only thermometer doesn’t tell the whole story. Since this was obviously running for a while, your return air and humidity (enthalpy) has also been lowered the more it ran. Try it again either way some enthalpy probes in both the supply and return