3 Speed Electric RC Car - Part 2/2

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[@bryanthornburg8636]

I would suggest buying tires for it. I have a RC car I built that does the same with with any soft rubber tires due to the motor being too powerful, I’ve been told hard rubber ones provide a little less traction, but can easily handle up to 80mph.

[@homegeographic5351]

yeah. buy rubber tires and if the rims are not good or bice enough, 3d print then based on the tires needs.

[@kaiedick9550]

+1

[@Rtechmobile]

Foam tires seem to work fine on 1/8 Gas cars and they would be as quick as his car.

[@keksie_channel]

@@Rtechmobile the torq difference is huge as electric it is from 0rpm while gas has need of a little rpm meaning tyre has "time" to adjust the inertia

[@SRFirefox]

Back when I worked in an RC shop, HPI sold belted rubber tires for just this kind of application. If you're in an experimenting mood, they have different foams for inside each type, but the standard ones should work fine for you. Ofna sells belted road tires too, but last I checked they were only for 1/8 scale buggy wheels.

[@wuddadid]

Here are a few suggestions on how you might improve traction: - Weight Transfer due to Acceleration: The weight of the vehicle shifts backwards as you accelerate so the combined weight of the battery and the motor will shift backward causing more traction on the rear wheels. From watching the video it seems that as you press down rapidly on the throttle and accelerate rapidly, the car starts to rotate to the left (11:22). I am assuming that the center of gravity of the car would be located more on the back right-hand side of the vehicle as that is where the battery and engine are roughly located. This uneven weight distribution, coupled with the fact that the weight shifts backwards as you accelerate, means that there will be a larger downward force on the rear right tire and hence more traction. This is also possibly the reason for the tire being ripped off as more of the force is exerted on that tire. - Lower the Tire Stiffness: You want a tire with high hysteresis (more deformable). Race cars have high hysteresis tires to increase friction and traction. Basically a softer tire. - Tire thread pattern: Add an asymmetrical pattern of circumferential (longitudinal) and lateral grooves to the tires to increase grip. [EDIT: As others have pointed out, whilst driving on dry and smooth road surfaces, treadless or slick tires will have more grip than treaded tires due to larger surface area of the tire (contact patch) being in contact with the road. That being said, the road being tested on was quite rough so a smoother road would also improve rubber contact.] - Lower steering ratio at high speeds: I saw it mentioned here already that you can program lower steering ratio at increased speeds. This should increase control. I also suggest this book (it's great): Vehicle Dynamics - Theory and Application by Reza N. Jazar Love the videos mate!

[@ValentineC137]

if grooves help with grip, then why do both drag cars and Formula 1 use slicks? :P

[@mikeylama]

tire groove only helps if there is anything to channel out from the surface of the tire. The largest mechanical grip will always come from slick, patternless tires.

[@wuddadid]

You're right. Threads are only needed to avoid hydroplaning on wet roads. Tire threads do infact reduce grip (when compared to slick tires) on dry smooth roads. That was an oversight on my part.

[@itchyprince3793]

Or you can just buy rubber tires and wheels and skip all the complicated math and physics

[@wuddadid]

@@itchyprince3793 sure you could. But I think if you're building rc cars from scratch, then you're probably going to want to understand how and why the car moves the way that it does. That way, you improve and optimize it. Which is what he asked for.

[@johnnyq90]

Fun fact: Never managed to go more than 50-60% throttle.

[@tanduay420]

Damn that thing must be powerful

[@DarkVVitcher]

Interesting!

[@jiviteshpandab6194]

So, which one is more powerful. The nitro version or the electric version and which one do u like @JohnnyQ90

[@Matty.Hill_87]

Insert shocked pikachu face meme here 🤣🤣🤣

[@jakeheddens8776]

I have a question, why didn’t you use rubber tires instead?

[@aceallenk]

Sure I'm almost a senior, but watching these videos bring back the kid in all of us. And you do it with precision and style, not to mention a lot of knowledge comes to the table to. Always an A for effort..

[@frederickwiesner1720]

Program your controls that the car has les steering angle in the higher speeds! That makes the controls a lot easier!

[@trickyplayer8742]

This don’t need programming this can be done on the remote so the servo didn’t use it full swing. But prob he don’t want to break speed records and use full swing on the servo

[@RC-ty5ym]

There is a easier way. He removed the 4wd and switched to rwd...

[@Nordmann61]

To make it easier to drive in high speed, is it a way to make the steering "slower", so the input from the steering wheel do not result in a quick reaction from steering servo, then it wil be easier to control in higher speeds. Cheers.

[@itchyprince3793]

Exponential right?

[@tiporari]

Add a simple gyro on the steering axis to help with stability on launch and high speed tracking. Most high speed cars now have this. Cheap and easy. You can also play with exponential on the throttle to make it less aggressive.

both easy and viable fixes.

[@PLAYERSLAYER_22]

the gyro just sounds like cheating if you havent already tried to tune the car the way it is. only after everything is already as good as it can get in its configuration, then slap a gyro on it. but yeah throttle linearity tuning is a must for any syle of build.

[@darrenminter4190]

A simple gyro from a helicopter linked to the steering servo and placed at the back of the car will enable she used to do one of two things keep the steering and check so it doesn’t wander out or do it the other way and turn into a drift car that’s really controllable lol at a fick of a switch , and u can buy different compounds rubber tires for track that have a temp Ratings and u can use a tire grip solution that you put on the tire that makes them tacky

[@PLAYERSLAYER_22]

darren minter everything you just brought up is what makes this go from an awesome engineering challenge to a cheap boring hack at achieving traction, ill straight up stop watching this series if it ever becomes something like that. we are not recreating and simulating characteristics of a vehicle, we are scaling one down while maintaining all the physics principals and strategy towards achieving traction employed by the real thing.

[@MaNNeRz91]

Solid rear axle and some better tyres and weight distribution 🙌 very thick oil in the front diff. Could lock the rear diff with bluetack or epoxy

[@PatrickAntonik]

Front camber and toe in positive Rear no toe in, slight positive camber Soft, slightly treaded rubber tires with foam inlays Great work, an absolute pleasure to watch, thank you!

[@douglasdarby8584]

Could you fit 1/8th scale on road tires to it? Come in a variety of shores (firmness) and handle very high speeds. Also softer rear springs (and front) help some. Love the project. Thanks for sharing.

[@bobasaursquared1633]

Angus Rae damn bro, wtf did he do?

[@dynamodayak]

To run straight: Toe adjustments, caster, suspension setup, chassis balance and running with the body on for aerodynamics and traction. Slow setting gel super glue for you to be able to glue the tires better and syringe type tips for you to reach the inside of the tires. Hope that helps.

[@choke666]

EXACTLY 💯. Toe and camber

[@BFanist]

Maybe a limited slip differential? The explosion looked like it was induced by extreme rotation speed of the wheel that had less grip. I might be wrong tho

[@danielrouw2593]

If you go back to his previous video he installed differentials with tuneable slip. I think he would benefit more from a front rear torque split and different gearing. Those shifts are just too much. Even a flywheel would help with those massive jumps in torque.

[@fabianrudzewski9027]

The wheel exploded pretty sure because of the diff. More lock would have prevented that.

[@danielrouw2593]

@@fabianrudzewski9027 in what way? Locked diffs put the entire force on whichever tire has the most resistance, in practice this increases the chances of breaking things. A limited slip equalizes torque, which has a limiting effect on the stress each tires recieves. Locked diffs also have much worse handling.

[@DynoRC]

You are definitely right

[@mickwald]

@@danielrouw2593 Locked diffs don't let a slipping tire speed up compared to the gripping tire though, which would prevent the blow-out. Limited slip is usually the best of both worlds, but at high power scenarios, a locked diff might be the only way to prevent spinning.

[@zloinaopako]

Amazing craftsmanship. I admire your patience and perseverance. You do like your camouflage shirts, don’t you? That nature resembles the type of scenery you can find in Greece 🇬🇷, Israel 🇮🇱, Cyprus 🇨🇾 or anywhere in the Mediterranean for that matter.

[@nick-bh5qs]

Do away with the foam tires, get some belted tires from an arrma (hoons), should be good for about 100mph, good traction too.

[@racingrivals8934]

Dude its a 1/10 car the car just need a propper alignment

[@fabianrudzewski9027]

@@racingrivals8934 he's talking about the exploding tire. But it exploded due to him doing donuts at full throttle. In that case, the open diff spinns one wheel to double the normal topspeed. That way, you can kill almost any tire. Super thick diff oil would have saved the tire

[@deathnightANIMATED]

Grp is pretty good and cheaper. Not sure if they do 1/10 as I run larger (infraction)

[@nick-bh5qs]

@@racingrivals8934 an alignment wouldn't be enough in itself, he has a few things to sort out. Tires Alignment Camber Dual rate adjustment to help with over correcting when steering. Tires are the biggest change to any rc, they can be a big upgrade in themselves (other than power upgrades). I had my rustler 2wd up to 140kph on jc concepts tires (non belted) before a tire blew.

[@nick-bh5qs]

@@deathnightANIMATED I'm sure with the 3d printer he can make 17mm hex for the car he has.

[@dyeirk4281]

Hey, I’ve always loved your videos and your projects are truly fascinating. I wanted to give my input on how to improve your car that others may have not said; -Softer suspension. The bumps on the road are much bigger relative to the car. Also softer suspension allows for smoother application of power to the ground. But as with anything, just not too much. -Ground effects. I noticed your under tray is smooth but has a lot of potential to really suck the car down. The car has to be moving to benefit from this but it can really have an effect if done right. -Think about center of gravity. You can get a few kitchen scales and see what your weight distribution is and make sure it’s not to one side and, ideally, 40% front. Better tires and all that jazz the other people said but also look into tire softening compounds. The foam may be ok if you lightly spread something like acetone on them to really soften them up. Thank you for the many hours of entertainment you’ve brought us!

[@adixx328]

Hmm I might have some ideas... 1. Make a better tires or buy one (the softer the more traction, but faster tirewear) 2. Try to make a aerodynamic body 3. Try messing up with suspension (i think you should soften it) 4. Try moving some weight backwards to achieve 40/60 ratio 5. I think you should find a bigger road area to test it in a bigger speeds, it could behave very differently. 6. Maybe the engine is just to powerfull and you should ad either more weight or changinng the engine but before that do the thing here ^^^ I think thats all of my ideas.

[@PLAYERSLAYER_22]

I think the biggest traction benefit would come from the suspension, it seemed like it is just so lightweight that the dampening speed and springrate needs to be super soft in order to transfer more of the bumps into the suspension. when it slips into a higher gear with the throttle pinned, the excess energy should be stored in the rear suspension rather than the tire surface which is causing it to break loose. this will help prevent traction loss during launching and shifting under throttle, aero will not really effect launching but could help maintain traction at speed but should not be relied on. you dont really want to add weight or remove power, but shifting weight whenever possible is ideal for minor balance adjustments. and instead of changing engines, you just need to play with the throttle linearity as well as the torque rampup rate. once it gets dialed in, the steering linearity should be modified to reduce the twitchyness of direction change. one last thing, it might be a good idea to put a layer of material under the tire foam to prevent rim damage if the tire blows off again.

[@itchyprince3793]

Definitely needs rubber tires. The foams are not the optimal option in this situation

[@neoxela00]

1. Reduce your maximum steering angle as your speed increases, if you have a motor speed sensor, tie it in that way. 2. Change your tires to high speed rubber ones. 3. If you have travel left in your suspension, consider softening the rears to help it squat on launch, this will also help lighten the steering. 4. Set up your controller to ramp the throttle even if its just over 1/4 of a second or so, it will stop the 0rpm torque dump and the inability to take off. 5. Consider if you want the car to automatically countersteer via a gyro, it will help you keep it straight.

[@DigitalJedi]

I'd suggest finding some tires with tread as it'll help with the rough road surface. As others have mentioned, hard rubber can handle high speeds and softer springs may help.

[@alphonsjose6812]

But hard rubber results in losing traction,right?

[@DigitalJedi]

@@alphonsjose6812 It does, but having tread rather than being proper slicks should minimise the issue on non-smooth surfaces.

[@FredrikElgstrand]

My suggestion is to free up your a-arms so the suspension works as intended. It might not be a bad idea to have it a little bit softer and more ground clerance. Tires, not foam and if you can find a road that is somewhat dust free. Very nice project, nice to watch. Good luck!

[@leoplx3594]

Arduino Traction Control and real tyres, nice job by the way

[@alagnianos]

Would surely take this project to another level, but should swap the body for a truck to fit the arduino :)

[@alagnianos]

@Arthur to fit it where exactly?

[@itchyprince3793]

Uh yeah no more foams

[@_BangDroid_]

imu + tuned pid loops

[@dylwolff]

Closed loop arduino? Might be a bit tough especially as different surfaces will require a different type of input.

[@DeckerMTB]

Running with the bodyshell on the chassis will help tremendously with the traction and how the car handles.

[@joachimschnoor2849]

Hello, If you have a differential gear between the front and rear axles, then change the ratio so that the front is about 2 to 5% more speed than the rear. With that he might drive better straight ahead and does not break out so quickly in curves. The car stays on track better. Thank you for your many great videos. Warm greetings from Germany Joachim

[@TheRoulette77]

love your videos i used to race back in the 80s- 90s when we had lots of tracks here in california , we used Bolink racing tires , the foam compound was very soft and very light weight material, also you need to fully glue them to the rim , as they tend to expand away from the rim , this misshapes the tire and brakes your contact patch with the road. also being light weight material helps as centrifugal force is less on the tire material. once that is fixed the body adds considerable down force , we would never run high speeds without it as it would stick the car to the ground and aerodynamics were a big part of traction. good luck

[@bull5hits]

Plenty of suggestions for this build already... so may I be so bold as to ask you to do a rock crawler or similar in the near future... 😃

[@RockandRollRC]

Front toe out, and a steering gyro. Nice work.

[@macedindu829]

Back in the day when I did slot cars, we ran them on foam tires with a glue substance for traction. Maybe find some of that glue?

[@ailestriker9888]

I thought this too but the dowside might be that it's going to pick up stones and ruin the tires

[@astro-jj5tm]

on clean roadways it could work, but anywhere else they would get real dirty real fast

[@itchyprince3793]

Or just give up with foams and use rubber tires

[@AUGRaijin]

@@itchyprince3793 there is nothing wrong with foam tires, its the application of the cyanocryciliates used to hold them onto the rims, CA glues are great for ribbed tires or tires with minimal bonding or grooved surfaces, your dealing with a tire now that needs complete surface to surface bonding instead use this list of items needed: rubber cement, mineral spirits, gloves, bowl nose plug lol optional items : mountain bike inner tube and scissors make sure the tire is not bored to the diameter of the rim but leave it as is, make the rim about 10mm larger than the center of the tire, then use contact rubber cement, coat the rim and the inner surface of the tire, let it dry thoroughly do all 4 tires and rims at the same time, this gets a bit messy, when dry take mineral spirits and dunk the tire into it and quickly stretch the tire over the rim, the mineral spirits will soften the contact rubber cement only for a few seconds so be quick about it, once the tire is on the rim let it sit overnight true the tires on the rims once trued you will be good to go, if you want to increase the traction on dusty hard packed surfaces or concrete, then take the inner tube and cut a piece that measures just about 3mm shy of the overall contact surface of your trued foam tires, again repeat the mounting of the above specifications on this time , you will need to fabricate a half cone basically the diameter of the tires after truing, and then coat the contact surface with rubber cement and the inner side of the inner tube, let dry completely, then dunk the inner tube in mineral spirits and use the tire horn to pull tube over the tire making rubber capped tires, I used to race 8th scale BMT's and later on Serpents and this was a standard in onroad high speed racing and helped immensely with traction, the benefit of rubber capping is you can use tire grip additives, the downside you cant true them save that of side wall truing,

[@itchyprince3793]

@@AUGRaijin wow that is a lot of info

[@dazkillinger1397]

Man I wish I was even a quarter as talented as this guy is.

[@vastak8853]

Johnny with this rc beast: :)) Kev with his 200 mph rc car: :)

[@guerrillaradio9953]

I have the exact same radio. It has a gyro feature built into the receiver. It really helps keep the car straight with crazy power, plus you already have it, so no extra expense. Also use Shoe Goo thinned with solvent on foam tires. Increases grip AND life. I suggest using 1/8 onroad tires, as they are designed for the speeds you're going to reach, as well as being more durable than those, and being much easier to replace. I'm experimenting with an old set of 1/8 onroad wheels, onto which I'm going to cast solid urethane rubber. Probably heavy, but it's got to be better for speed runs. I wish you could still buy capped foams, but the thinned Shoe Goo soaks into the foam, increasing its strength and durability.

[@jaredgann7206]

Video title should be "Worlds First 150 Pound 1/10 Scale R/C!"

[@user-qq2mo1ek2r]

Love these builds, the trial and error, working things out, making new wheels etc. So so good

[@Jimi8512]

Please make mini 3 piece split wheels in billet aluminium!

[@webslinger67]

Been racing rc cars some years ago... There are rubber capped foam tires that can help. Back out the slipper clutch some (if you even have one.. if you don't, you need one) Plus I seen that the tire exploded in the center and not around the edges. You need to coat both the rim completely AND the inside of the tire liberally with tire glue, not just the edges. It makes a bit of a mess after pushing the tire on but you can clean that up with acetone. And keep in mind the surface you are running on is dusty and gravely... Try a new parking lot or even your nearest race track might have a carting track they will let you run on. Nice build for sure.. and good luck 👍👍👍

[@PPYTAO]

Wow, I need one 😱 there should be an FPV racing league for these.

[@dt-tv4fs]

commercials in the 1960's touted the value of "oval" tires as they had better grip on the road in rain and ice. thanks again for another treat video.

[@Sven_Hein]

What lathe are you using? I'm thinking of buying one myself but haven't found the right one yet.

[@butwait]

Brandless Chinese mini lathe from the looks of it. Likely modified to run within proper spec.

[@myworkshop2]

Its an Optimum, I have the same one, with some modifications they are great bench top lathes.

[@Pithead]

Check out 'This Old Tony' (channel) for his vids on a mini lathe.

[@hipo4eyes1]

As an owner of a nitro Schumacher fusion I was so impressed!! Makes me wish they sold these so I could get one! SUBSCRIBED..

[@joshuas.carsntanks]

Perhaps add more weight to help with the traction problem? Love how it turned out 👌

[@jasonnoble1435]

I also suggest adding some weight to it, I know this seems a little counter intuitive as light means fast but too light and you lose control, balance the power to the weight so it stills goes fast and stays on the ground.

[@itchyprince3793]

He needs to do some more suspension tuning to keep all 4 tires planted

[@matthewdufty606]

Excellent Build. I suggest more power for more traction

[@LILMADERR23]

NSX! Such a good choice. Loving this car, the more and more i see it!

[@AcydDrop]

Suggestions: Improve camber angle (front and rear) - consider tyre based on surface - consider perhaps adding a spoiler to increase down force (not sure of the effectiveness of a splitter or spoiler at this size) - perhaps consider loading on the tires (again at this scale not sure). Best and only suggestions I have.

[@cuileanboulland2571]

first time tuning into the chanel i was so plesed when you put the nsx body on great choice ten stars

[@CraigTaylor]

A few issues: - Foam tyres are never good on rough surfaces (they just tear up, as you found), maybe get some rubber tyres with modest tread for on that road. Foam is good for painted asphalt and carpet. - Steering angle is too aggressive for the higher speeds, I found when I put a 2-speed in my nitro RC that the higher speeds required me to reduce the throw on the steering servo. Modern radios can do this electronically. - Put the body on the car, you will find less yaw sensitivity with the body fitted. - Loosen up the rear diff, tighten the front. That way front will stay square on takeoff, reduces torque steer on turning too

[@graphixkillzzz]

JohnnyQ90: traction is a problem 🤔 me, after watching a drift event: I see no problem 😐👍

[@RC-ty5ym]

While drifting, you still have a lot of traction..

[@ryanwalton986]

@@RC-ty5ym Most drift cars don't have the insane torque to weight ratio as this car.

[@RC-ty5ym]

@@ryanwalton986 That might be true, but it's completely senseless to drive the Schumacher touring car out of the video with 2wd...

[@wretchedexcess1654]

Rubber tires with foam filler inside, glue properly and then a little grape soda sprayed on the track you intend to run on. Cheap version VHT spray. You'll have to play with which foam insert works best for your application, weight and balance. The foam tires you made could work if you glued the whole inside surface of the tires to the rims. They will still chunk and come apart with use though. Cleaning up the rims for mounting new tires will be a pain as well. That's all I have from memory of my RC car days.

[@IrishSkruffles]

From the aftermath of the shredded wheel, you can see that it ripped the foam only where it was glued around the edge of the wheel. If you glue the entire surface somehow that won't be an issue anymore. As for not having traction, you could either try different tyres or make the car heavier

[@xorxand1001]

A few things to consider. Tractor pulling and drag racing. Tractor pulling has the opposite effect, you dont have enough weight:power low end. Drag racing has under inflated tyres, hard to do with solid rubber. Also consider some form of gear limiting based on traction loss?? Its almost like you need to rethink the gear ratios. It could do with less aggression in first gear but its a very hard task to get that perfect balance without a bucket load of R&D.

[@ningen1980]

Hair ties for battery hold downs. Never would've imagined that one. As far as traction: Seems like the tire material is too hard/brittle. Like taking a shopping cart over gravel. VERY rough. Perhaps a pneumatic type of tire would be better?

[@lilhotdog7011]

Always a good day when Jonathan uploads!

[@wumbogt3310]

damn,I want to buy a RC car now

[@IllusiveChristie]

Go make one😉

[@nfsfanAndrew]

Plenty of kits. You can get rollers you can build up yourself or RTR (ready to runs)

[@IllusiveChristie]

Sorry. But you don't need 1000s in machinist tools to do this. You would be surprised what you can do with basic tools a grinder and a soldering iron. That's where I started.. working up to buying a lathe soon . Please don't knock down anyone's ideas ,passion, or dreams. He might even work at a shop where he might be able to borrow time on equipment.

[@nfsfanAndrew]

@@marcialdospuforini1197 why so hostile? Saying to go make one doesn't necessarily mean go machine one from scratch. There's plenty of parts kits to build up your own RC exactly how you like. Ease up buddy.

[@MiGujack3]

@@marcialdospuforini1197 Not at all, 3D printing and glue go a really long way. If you need parts that require a lathe just go to machine shop and order the parts, no need to own the machine yourself.

[@AcousticNRG]

jonny these videos are beyond satisfying to watch 10/10

[@DarkVVitcher]

Imagine makin a 6 speed 4x4 with traction control.

pointless. it's brushless. learn about how brushless motors make gears obsolete.

[@DarkVVitcher]

@ do you mean gearboxes or gears in general?

[@Cannabis_Connoisseur]

Need to glue the foams to the wheels. Any racing foams you buy pre-built come glued. The disk brakes are super cool but you probably need too adjust the seetimgings of the esc because brushless HW setups have really strong drag brake and you may or may not won't to use it. A much lighter weight battery would possibly help with the car pulling to that side. Most 5500mah batteries are less than half that size if you get a decent brand. And foams aren't good for hooning around. Get a set of tires from arrma that is used on the infraction and felony line of cars if you want speed and drifting especially.

[@Zoltec-q1g]

Use rubber tires, add weight to the car. Improve gearing --> Longer gears.

[@S1LV3RBACK1]

Dude! That car is the perfect candidate for an EDF! Right on the top dead center. You've got some surplus power so use it to induce some down force. There's a 70mm fan that has 1.8kg of thrust. I half ass tried it on my short course truck and I could almost drive on a wall. It was so quick that you could hardly track it with your eyes. But before I went all the way with that build, I got into quad rotors and haven't looked back. Ya, like another dude said, get some proper belted tires and glue the crap out of them. Nice car! Cheers!

[@Skitzotech]

Tip on how to get better traction: Use your finger and not your toe to control the throttle trigger. kek XD

[@tunespt]

adjust throttle curve, heated rubber tires (as the ones we useon 1/4 scale, but probably too big), fix the wheels alignment, front toe out, rear toe in, and go from there. As usual, nice content, as I'm also an rc lover.

[@kavanlad5532]

Some suggestion: You can decrease the gear ratio in the transmission. If you see, the jump from 1st gear to 2nd gear is quite extensive meaning that when the car changes from 1st to 2nd gear along with a high torque motor, the wheel will slip a little and hence decrease the traction. You can decrease the width of the front wheel so that the efficiency while turning is high. If you see , it is easier to turn a smaller width wheel than a bigger width wheel because of it’s low surface area contact. Secondly, more is the area, less is the pressure of a medium. You can even add counterweights at the front of the car but not a lot as while braking the centre of gravity will shift to front end. This counterweight will counter the opposing acceleration force that tends to make the car’s centre of gravity at the back end. Again, fantastic job to create a automatic transmission car. Commendable job .

[@ksan351]

Suggestions for improved traction. Start with tightening the front diff to where if you hold both outdrives you can just turn it by hand, loosen the rear diff to the point it is almost free. This should stop the car wanting to spin out so easily. Other things that may help try adding some exponential to your throttle and steering to make them a little softer and less aggressive, possibly adding a gyro or AVC system to help with traction control and stability issues. Also some good belted rubber tires with closed cell foam inserts and a bit of wheel balancing will help tremendously, having done it during my years racing 1/10 offroad it is worth it especially at the kinds of wheel speeds you will get out of the 3 speed transmission.

[@mboyd6]

DO NOT use a gyro because as soon as the car darts off in one direction, it will try and counter steer itself repeatably until it spins out and that can be disastrous at high speeds. Also, steer clear from using rubber tyres as they expand and eventually - if not instantly - break especially with the power and drivetrain you are using. I found that adjusting your dual rate (steering input) on the control makes it alot easier to handle in a straight line. Lastly, find a clear stretch of road without debris, potholes, cats eyes etc. Love your videos, I have been watching them since the micro supercharger. Keep it up!

[@wendtb]

Worth buying a set of racing rubber tyres and rims, gluing and balancing. Racing tyres have a decent compound for optimum grip at specified temperatures and they have a fibre belt in them and special foam inserts to ensure even contact patches. The RC club I know makes you glue the tyres on site to make sure you are not using any different inner foam also for competitive gain.

[@omararreola2800]

awesome electric three speed setup

[@21111009198573]

This man was whipping it

[@Slikx666]

Johnny. I'm not sure if it'll work but it's worth a try. A way to gain downforce without creating too much drag is to alter the pitch of the car. If you have the front of the car lower than the back you will induce ground effect, there will be a low pressure zone under the car sucking it down, this should help the traction issue you're having. For more information see modern F1 cars / aerodynamics. There were the ground effect cars years ago, but they used a different system. Also would a gyro help keeping it straight? Good luck and stay safe 👍😷

[@trickyplayer8742]

Think the setup is nice. Motor got power enough. I’m no professional or an engineer. Here is my thoughts .Wouldn’t make tyre rim bigger. I suggest to choose other rims (no alu) to add weight. This for enlarging tyre area on the ground. And for the tyre reinforced ( with steel ) rubber/foam. Or use the rims you have and make a metal ring on the lathe and add the foam on top of the ring only for the rear and see from there further

[@johnk7093]

foam tires=carpet rubber tiers=asphalt impressive rig.

[@burningdieselproduction5498]

Nice project! Buddy now you need Spektrum AVC radio and receiver. you can adjust tour throttle exponential curve and adjust the stability system to make your car somewhat controllable.

[@mikesrcgarage]

Go with rubber tires not foam rubber, narrowed suspension didn't help handling either. Try wider rims and rubber tires, you can offset the rims so they don't stick out further. Play with the spring rate of the shocks as well! Awesome car great work! 👍

[@NathanStorer-RC]

This car is incredible! Not sure about sure compounds, but maybe some sort of stability management would help overall? When you have that much power to tame, sometimes one needs a little bit of help ;)

[@ajgonzalez5109]

That NSX body put a smile on my face :)

[@cda32]

When I raced 1/10 pan cars we would cut grooves into the rubber, and turn it down really thin to reduce the rotational mass of the wheel. For some surfaces (not recommended on tarmac because of dirt) we would also use a glue like substance on the tires to improve traction. Also downforce, put the body on and give it a nice long rear wing. Too much angle of attack on the wing creates drag but making the wing wider increases downforce, same on the front. Also using a slip differential helps handling off the line.

[@revus5078]

I love the NSX body it looks great

[@jeffh6971]

i have no advice on RC cars, but i love the channel! surely you will find something out that will help you. maybe the tires people use for rc drag cars?

[@johnnyghoul8100]

All wheel drive and a carefully thought out layout with regards to weight and specific gravity

[@stevemclaughlin2393]

My guess would be to go with rubber (preferably belted) instead of foam as others have suggested. And the least porous and cleanest road/surface you can find. Great stuff!!!

[@TheDejakal]

I'd like to see this on a track with some softer tires. One thing we used to do in racing, was to belt our own soft compounded tires. It prevented ballooning and catastrophic failures like yours, but it makes balancing the tires harder.

[@MuhammadAli-ff6il]

Amazing All Wheel Drive Honda NSX

[@gresvig2507]

I don't know diddly squat about RC cars, but that foam looks like it just pills up into rolly dust when you're cutting/abrading it. So on a road surface (which if you go by scale it would be like a road car on slicks trying to drive on rip rap) I really can't see it working. There's got to be some kind of super soft rubber treaded tires out there that are air filled. Probably get much better compliance and traction out of that. And if they've got a stretchy carcass you might get a lot of expansion, which at lower speeds might cause a reduction of torque to the wheels (from essentially raising your gearing) before you even react to the wheelspin, which may make it easier to deal with. Plus at high speed you'd get a bit more gear, like on a fuel car. You'd have to balance that with a decent sidewall for handling, of course. Absurdly good work as always.

[@ALTruckerDad]

Rubber slicks treated with "Stickykicks" compound. My cousins used that stuff on their racers when they ran them on hard track. They used knobbys on dirt. They also tightened the suspension when on hard track. And it seemed to help.

[@joshua7586]

Big wing and canards! Probably wouldn't actually do much but it would look cool

[@juliocesarvelandia3386]

Una obra de Arte. Tipo Exportación. Es seguro que ese coche no lo pudo hacer una sola persona. ( felicitaciones a todo el grupo ). Y la llanta hizo " plast " y se acabó el jueguito. Me pregunto: Que batería tendrá... Se ve potente.

[@mortenalbertsen7443]

3d Printing parts for an RC car is awesome. Managed to wreck a part on my Tamiya car. i could have bought the sprue with the part on it for around 14 € i think. Instead, i modelled the part in CAD and printed it. Not sure if that was the quickest solution, but sure the most fun solution.

[@arthurgoetzke-coburn8930]

Another useful thing to do, is to have wider rear tires than front tires. This inherently gives more understeer to the car, which helps when the rear is this lively. A lot of 1/8 RWD buggies do that, and those handle extremely well (although a bit understeery sometimes at high speeds).

[@jaxonmcbride6738]

I have 2 suggestions for you. 1. Don't run foam tires on rough asphalt. I am surprised they lasted as long as they did with the sharp turns and speeds you were going. Maybe run a rubber tire with foam inserts. They should last a bit longer. 2. RC cars depend on downforce to get traction. You had no body on the car or a wing on the right for any downforce. Put the body on the car and put a wing on the back and you should do much better....especially at higher speeds.

[@adammorris3082]

That's a really nice build, You make me wish I had the equipment to bring my ideas to life- good work. I noticed the tyre gave in where it wasn't glued and so think that just gluing the whole inner tyre surfaces to the wheels might stop the tyres exploding- as for traction look at different shore ratings and if your planning on going 130mph+ stick to foams is the advice I got from another you tube speed runner. All the best.

[@praneeth6005]

Now we want a race between Electric RC and gasoline RC

[@papa_xander]

I dont know if theres a way to set throttle curve with your esc but thats where I'd start for the traction from stand still. You may also consider that you were using a rather soft foam compound on an untreated and rought tarmac with large aggregate stones. The use of very thin double stick tape for mounting foam tires is much more effective than gluing points with CA glue. That will probably help raise the threshold at which you have catastrophic failure and separation of the tire. For a rough surface like you are testing on i would definitely use a standard belted hpi tire, and they also resist ballooning at high rpm. But if you want to go foam you would probably only see benefits on a very smooth tarmac that has been treated with traction agents like VHT. You're pretty handy and making your own parts and you did great with the wheels and tires... but i definitely suggest purchasing wheel and tire sets made by a top manufacturer. The foam variety usually comes pre mounted and trued to spec and you can also get capped tires which are quite durable. They spend long periods at high rpm on pan cars that race on high bank oval tracks. As far as the third option, which would be traditional bead mounted belted radials, that is going to be you best option for un prepared surfaces like the road you were testing on. As far as only being able to reach about 60% throttle, go ahead and mount that nsx body. Youd be surprised how much down force a body with that shape will generate at that speed. You may even bottom the car out if you reach maximum velocity so have a stiffer spring readily available to swap so you dont have to cut another video short on the testing portion. Also to help cope with the down force on the front of the body, use a standard type foam bumper insert to support the nose as it may deform and scrape the ground under the pressure. This will help transfer that force to the suspension and wheels where its needed. Good luck!

[@storejoshuprite]

Rear Diff: If you are using a viscous limited slip rear diff a thicker oil might help. High power vehicles tend to do better with more lock or even a locked diff. Tire compound may be grippy, but apparently, it shreds relatively easily. I can't really tell what material you're using, but it looks like a foam style rubber compound....any foam has a higher likelihood of shredding with high weight, BIG power, and coarse pavement. Suggestions: 1) Find a smoother surface like fresh asphalt or concrete. 2) Consider switching to a solid rubber tire with a slightly softer foam insert to maintain a better contact patch. Other options for better control: Throttle mapping, slow down the steering, a bit more rear toe in. THe biggest issue I see for stability though... is corner balancing. Right now, there's a tall 500gram+ weight on the right, and...maybe... 250-300g on the left. I also see the constraints of your packaging situation....So a distributed battery system would be an idea, but a reliability and wiring nightmare. A meaty aluminium heat sink on the 'back" side of the motor could add the extra weight whilst serving a purpose and creating content for the channel. Think around the motor and out above the electronics with fins.

[@gadgetdeez7069]

Go with belted rubber tires. They need to be more pliable. Stiff tires don't allow recovery for traction once they break loose. Also, go get yourself a radio that has avc. Spectrum cells a transmitter and receiver and it's not prohibitively expensive. with the amount of power that you have, and the vehicle setup that you are running, you could really benefit from it. the receiver has sensors built into it and will actually counter steer to correct for yaw. It also has other features like making steering less sensitive when the vehicle is at speed and other features that will help prevent spinouts.

[@snowcoalRC]

As someone who is into RC cars and has a few of them you should definitely just buy the tires at least. The wheels you could probably make yourself (the ones you had seemed to do fine), but having good road tires will completely change how it handles.

[@ozzy1976]

You have some serious skills my friend!

[@t.w.3]

Foam is mostly useful for small lightweight rc cars running on carped or similar surface. For high speed and high torque applications I would look to natural rubber tires, especiialy those with kevlar reinforcement. Some are screwed onto the rims, most are glued on. You can of course make rubber tires yourself if you are in a location where parts are hard to get or very costly.

[@dontleaveunattended1201]

The body provides downforce/ traction. Love your videos.

[@edwintresco]

Solid rubber tires or solid foam tires are generally used on indoor tracks. Outside concrete will cause a lot of stress and will causes the tire to explode like it did in the video. Basic standard RC tires that are hollow and have foam inserts are perfect for outdoor use. They are able to absorb the roughness of the road.

[@soupisgoodfood42]

I think it's more a case of the wrong type foam or just too much power. I used to race foam tires on concrete and asphalt for a decade. But this was before brushless and lipos were a thing.

[@castekracing]

Also would perhaps weight distribution have a part to play? Instead of having one large 4s, you’ve easily got the room to run 2x2s to balance the chassis a bit

[@TheOCTOPIED]

I'm not an expert but i think you should make the car more heavy, so there will be more traction. Try adding some weight and check if there are improvements. Tires will have more grip and the engine will put more effort to move the entire car.(maybe also some wider tires?) Let me know. I love your dedication into research.

[@Acrophobia2]

Why did you decide to machine the wheels to spec rather than printing them to spec? Love these car projects!

[@butwait]

Because 3d printed parts are rarely completely true. There is always some form of z-wobble. At high speed this would be noticeable.

[@Acrophobia2]

But wait! Ahh that makes sense. I’ve never 3D printed anything functional so I didn’t know that! Thanks!

[@ProDesigneHd]

tolerances on a lathe are much tighter then 3D printing

[@n20cpri]

I've recently resurrected some vintage RC10's and am trying to go 100mph - I've found anything upper 50's and beyond is where I start to blow tires apart. I've managed 72mph on some really short foamies but they blew apart shortly after that run and were making lots of noise prior because a chunk had already gone missing. Good luck I've not come up with anything yet myself that will fit my needs...

[@1eightrcracing]

Set punch setting to low on esc and exponenetial on radio also you can try tightening up you diff.. also play with shock oils and diffrent spring rates. Looks really radical enjoy

[@itsyaboijoeysalads6300]

absolutely incredible

[@potiriaxorispato]

φίλε στην Ελλάδα είσαι??? Είσαι μεγάλο μυαλο!!! μπράβο χαίρομαι πολύ για εσένα!