3 Tips for a Better Basement BUILD (Insulation, Waterproofing, & Framing)

[@jankowski36]

Love to see commercial/industrial products make their way into residential work. Link-seals have been used for many years on the commercial side and are especially utilized for large diameter penetrations below grade. Fun stuff!

[@kellydavid772]

We used them in commercial electrical applications when I worked with a panel shop. Prior to that we used them in a hospital setting when installing new commercial washers for their laundry service department. I saw this application and I was pleased to see them make their way onto this build.

[@kevinprociw3168]

There are so many good products out there.

[@andrewwiser3643]

I work in precast concrete. We use link seals all the time.

[@Koitus36]

Huge difference moving from commercial builds to residential. Was laid off from commercial back in 2020. Moved over to residential and they just couldn’t get the ideas I brought about these types of building science techniques. Took some growing pains, but now I have the company I work for is building a much more solid product, and even with the increase cost increase, we are able to make great profit because people are willing to pay for it.

[@williamwicklund4273]

The core drilled holes that are sealed is the same old technology that Navy ships use for bulkhead and deck penetrations. It's just rubber squished by tightening bolts to create leak free and also fire rated seals between compartments

[@theradonpros]

Love this from a radon mitigation perspective!

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

People tend to ignore that, but earth, concrete, rock are all radioactive. Ventilation is a must.

[@TA-ch7ok]

Foaming the inside of the wall makes the wall cold, same temp as the soil, which means that the wall retains moisture, which means that the moisture will drive upward toward the sill and rim joists. This puts a premium on some kind of membrane under the sill/rimjoist to protect them from moisture; hard to do. Far easier to waterproof (membrane such as PolyWall) the exterior, then install a dimple board and then rigid foam board insulation. Then you have a dry, warm concrete mass, thermally stable and not transporting water vapor.

[@Nctbgs]

I see your comment is a year old . I have tried over and over to reach poly wall to buy their products for builds and can’t get a call back or even an email back. I don’t think I would ever use their products if I can’t even reach them to buy from them. Just imagine if you ever had an issue !!

[@dylvitte3226]

They are waterproofing the outside as well.

[@dabarch100]

This climate zone requires R-10 on exterior of foundation on top of water/damproofing. This under slab insulation and waterproofing as well is spray foam on interior of foundation wall will stabilize core temp and relative humidity of the wall as it reduces expose to moisture all the way around the wall.I did this in my house 15 years ago. my basement is 65-67 degrees ALL YEAR ROUND.

[@paulbooij7594]

When pouring over foam I highly recommend putting a layer of poly over top, for no other reason except that the foam dries the concrete fast and is a pain.

[@stevejohnson9626]

even over foam that is taped at the seams?

[@jessesteeves9876]

you should really wet most any surface youre putting concrete except for soil.

[@Swagg3r3d]

Really interesting. what about ICFs?

[@kennorthunder2428]

? The foam isn't porus is it?

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

​@@kennorthunder2428No, it is not. ICF does not need poly on top. I suppose you could if you want, but remember the anchor bolts are poking up periodically, lol.

[@randystalcup1248]

Good timing, thinking of basement for the new build.

[@SolarDrew]

Same

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Do it but it adds $35,000 to the cost.

[@SprayJones]

Looks good, we have been doing the SPF system for floors in Canada since 2014. Works great.

[@ernestvalenzuela8905]

What is the cost per square foot

[@squirrelmaster1225]

were remodeling our 1950's basement, this couldnt come at a better time, thank you. : )

[@Tuumeke1884]

Just be cautious, remodeling is a whole different ball game. If you apply some of the things you see in new construction incorrectly, you can cause a lot of damp and mold issues.

[@samyoungblood3740]

Awesome look!! Can’t wait for people to start building greenhouses around their homes! Can’t think of a better way to prevent moisture or water than a greenhouse!

[@strorandompage]

Listen this is the reason why one day I want to build my wife and daughter a home with a bunker.. I'll use these guys

[@LookinGoodTubs]

It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.

[@erickessler6094]

Wade, Awesome looking job! Block island must be amazing! Cheers, Eric

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Never been, but Martha's Vineyard is very pretty. You can't afford to live there, though.

[@KamiInValhalla]

That strapping looks like it works wonders. First time seeing that

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Tune into This Old House. They always use it.

[@sinelocum]

Nice 62 Series. Clean.

[@JeepWranglerIslander]

How good or bad of an idea would it be to have bores for a vertical geothermal Loop and your well to be dug so that they come out of the floor in your basement vs drilling holes through your wall to bring those pipes in from the outside?

[@dinocracchiolo2040]

I have been in the residential home industry for 35 years I would do all three of those if I was building today.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Love the islands off New England. My favorite is Martha's Vineyard.

[@MrTrda]

We all use strapping up here in Canada 🇨🇦 Much better 👌

[@dohio3042]

Love build show man

[@buildshow]

Thanks!

[@jonmiguel]

Reminds me of rubber stoppers we used to have for opened sodas. Put the stopper in the mouth of the bottle, flip the lever, and the mechanism would squeeze from both ends expanding the diameter of the stopper, sealing the bottle.

[@billbeck4661]

With the spray foam on the wall , won’t that allow a passage for ground water to seep up the wall . Where if concrete was poured directly contacting the basement wall would seal the floor to the wall

[@Bob_Betker]

I would think that the spray foam would create a tighter seal between the floor and the wall.

[@Toby-o5g]

9:20 - 9:30 lol that jab

[@paulmcgonagle2998]

Great job Matt, I didn't know the strapping is a New England thing?

[@Rooftop923]

Matt always you have great videos but I have a question for you so what you can tell us about Xypex waterproofing? Thanks

[@disgruntled9296]

One thing that I haven't seen on the KZbin "home building shows" is dealing with water leakage through an above grade poured concrete wall crack and then penetrating behind the exterior water proofing into the basement. The poured concrete wall is going to crack and provide a water access into the basement. I have never seen an episode on how to build a basement accounting for this leakage source during the build.

[@Real_Tech_Skills]

How would you treat the under-slab closed cell spray foam to prevent termites from entering a house at the gap between the basement slab and the basement wall?

[@shoes121255]

Can termites burrow 8+ feet underground to get to the foam?

[@zack9912000]

yes

[@jonathangay465]

Also, if he spray foams from the bottom slab up to the floor joists, that won't leave any area to inspect for termites. Termites can create their tunnels through the spray foam and you cannot see it. That's why you should leave a few inches from the top of the spray foam to the bottom sill plate, so you can see if any termite tubes get created.

[@andreycham4797]

@@jonathangay465 aha it is not Texas here to create thermo bridge which would lead to condensation in uninsulated area.

[@RickGrimes807]

What Jonathan replied in this comment thread is the truth. Without going into details, the spray foam industry is now working to get approvals for use in thermite zones. And leaving a gap between the top of the spray foam and the sill plate is the way that's being recommended by industry experts to allow visual inspection of thermites. The industry is working with the relevant governing bodies to get this installation technique approved by building inspectors and insurance companies. Termites are the only downside to spray foam compared to other insulations in basements. But in non termite areas, spray foam's performance is not comparable to others.

[@DT-vc7hd]

Timely video -- I'm currently researching basement build techniques for a custom home in East Texas. A comment that a user posted recently to another video that spotlighted spray foam under slab mentioned termites and how this technique was bad when they're active. Comments?

[@zack9912000]

I would say that is very true as well as the foam rots after a few short years. In this case they have two inches of foam that will allow the slab to move and crack. Closed cell foam isn't ground contact rated and will still absorb water. Designed to last their warranty on the home and others will have to fix the slab after.

[@diyoregonnowtexas9202]

I'm planning a home as well in East Texas. Jacksonville. I will have a basement, but it is becoming a challenge to find an experienced concrete basement builder. It has to be done right the first time without mistakes and totally waterproof. Have you found anyone who knows what they're doing?

[@DT-vc7hd]

@@diyoregonnowtexas9202 Great question... I, too, have researched basements and I'm not sure if it's just a Texas thing, but these inquires have been met with blank stares or silence. If you're not within the big metro areas, it's difficult to get anything built besides the standard rinse-and-repeat slab-on-grade foundation and stick built structures.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

​@@DT-vc7hdDo not build on a slab.

[@br2266]

Thank yuo for finally saying what your last name is Matt, because I've been saying it like "rehs-inger" and not "rice-inger" lol

[@nickpark9587]

Matt... if there is a crack on the basement wall and have a slow leak, where would the water go? if it is not fully sealed like this, the water can flow under the slab and avoid a disaster?

[@ProfessionalFixologist]

In a high quality build there are multiple protections. First bomber waterproofing on the basement exterior, then a pleated product that puts an air gap around the exterior, allowing water to drain to underneath the basement and not remain on the walls. The crushed rock under the basement will allow the water to drain, normally to a French drain system. Finally a sump pump or multiple sump pumps are added for insurance in case the rest of the systems fail. Also worth noting is that so long as the spray foam doesn't crack, it will also prevent water from penetrating. This is how I'd build a basement if I was going to do a new build.

[@borderwave2]

@@ProfessionalFixologist Sounds like a significant amount of work and cost for a basement. I guess in a "cost is no concern" build it could be done, but for the average homeowner it seems like overkill.

[@mdhofstee]

@@borderwave2 Waterproofing material on the exterior will run about 7 dollars per square foot of surface area. Next is drainage tiles which is cheap requires less than a day to do. These run about 50 cents a foot with the sump pump basin and pump running about 50 and 150 dollars respectively. The final part is the interior spray foam. That cost will not be cheap but current building codes require it and will run at least 4 dollars per sqft of surface area at 2" thick. So lets look at 3000 sqft ranch house. If we go 75ft by 40ft with a 9ft basement wall we run an exterior surface area of 2300ft. Now the exterior WP is 16k dollars, the drainage will run about 450 dollars plus a days labor. As for the spray foam you are looking at 21k dollars. All told you have doubled your houses sqft for the cost of 38k dollars with just the need to install 2x3s and drywall to finish it out which with just one room would cost 1500 dollars plus labor. More rooms would just add modest costs and provide more value. In the end a finished basement provides a huge benefit to the house value given that a basic house costs over 100 dollars per sqft you just added 3000 sqft for around 15 dollars per sqft, more when divide the basement up. If you tack in the concrete that adds 14k to the cost and brings the per sqft up to 20 dollars. Now windows are also required but those are 1k a piece.

[@borderwave2]

@@mdhofstee I always thought that basements are not typically considered in the square footage of a house when doing real estate calculations.

[@mdhofstee]

@@borderwave2 typically they are not except when they are legally done for living space. To be considered every room except for utility and bathrooms have to have two points of egress, typically a window for each room closed off by a door. Next is height. It must be 7'-6" per code. Once those are done the flooring needs to be something other than bare concrete. One final metric is hvac needs to be in place and working. I will state that feds have some issues with basements so that is point of contention in some respects.

[@jackwhiteside5094]

I've been wondering about closed cell foam under slab insulation's effect on Radon. Now I know!

[@tc9148]

We are missing the link for the core drilled hole seal around the pipe penetrations.

[@martinbaginski7812]

Wade who do you use as an insulation contractor? Do you usually spray foam 1st floor floor-joists if you've foamed under the slab?

[@nathanlowery1141]

Wouldn’t be a need to hit the joists, except rim joists. Anything on the outside facing of the house. Closed cell foam is an insulator and is waterproof. So when you spray the walls and under slab, and continue up the wall (think continuous no holes base to roof) everything is brought in to the conditioned space. No need to do the floor joists.

[@hoss2239]

Would you still be able to do a radiant floor heating with the spray insulation?

[@bosatsu76]

So... 1... By 'stone', you mean 1 1/4?... 3/4?... Gravel is 5/8 in my experience... 2... 'Air sealed mudsill to foundation'... How is that done. 3... "The beam's been 'packed out'... ??? 4... So happy to have found your channel... I picked up some major tips today as always.

[@95dodgev10]

A "packed out" beam means they filled the webbing of the steel i beam with lumber until flush so they could run floor joists and hangers to the wood inside the i beam. The lumber in the webbing is lag bolted from one side through the i beam to the other. Basically just makes framing easier so they're attaching wood floor joists to wood like normal.

[@bosatsu76]

@@95dodgev10 Ah... Got it... Thanks.

[@sixtomidnight1492]

1 - Crushed stone/angular rock is usually 3/4". Known as "#57" in the industry. 2 - Air sealing the mudsill is done using a thin foam material known as "sill seal" used in conjunction with an air sealing caulking. One bead of sealant between the concrete and the foam and another bead between the foam and mudsill. Hope this helps!

[@bosatsu76]

@@sixtomidnight1492 It most definitely DOES help... Both questions answered with clarity... Thank you. R

[@WKPConstruction]

3/4” crushed stone Here’s a mudsill air sealing detail: www.buildshownetwork.com/blogs/AIR_SEALING_MUDSILL_TO_FOUNDATION

[@jhealy3110]

How does this compare to the Halo under the slab in the other video?

[@boedillard8807]

was there any exterior foundation insulation?

[@tredogzs]

We strap the strapping at 90 degrees so you have strapping both directions for all the same benefits both directions!

[@cyrilallard6956]

Hey, I've got a basement rehab coming up, do you think its possible to foam the floor over existing dilapidated concrete, then pour a tapered cap on it?

[@DanSme1]

You would do well publishing a Matt R. Latest and Best Building Products for SFR Construction. I’m a Boomer who would like to build one last SFR for retirees.

[@MikeHarris1984]

I've never seen strapping in Arizona, and plaster was last used in like the 60's...

[@augustreil]

Both are the best way to do the interior, Jmo.

[@bosatsu76]

I saw another one of his videos where he's in a 125 year old building being remodeled... Zero problems from mold etc, because plaster treats vapor differently than sheetrock... Plaster does not trap it but absorbs and releases it naturally... But on THIS video the guy said Blueboard and plaster skim coat... But that was the ceiling where there is no vapor differential from one floor to the other... So, who knows.

[@mr.g937]

@@augustreil What's so great about plaster versus just skim coating drywall?

[@augustreil]

@@mr.g937, thicker and way stronger.

[@timantrim1751]

Not sure that I understand the sequence when it comes to framing the walls. Are you attaching the studs to a sill plate and then to the floor joists with a void that will be filled with the foam? Do the studs need bracing because they don’t touch the concrete?

[@Eltoques23]

Wondering how the waterproofing is done on the exterior of the basement.

[@mistere5857]

The secret to waterproofing a basement is good drainage on the outside.

[@JO-fk1bg]

I couldn't agree more. I have 2 basin sumps with a french drain on the interior footers and walls. I still get water through floor drain, cracks in floor, sometime it will come over the french drain in the back corner wall. I get all the run off from the hill next to the house. Another problem to think about is the hydrostatic pressure from the water can raise a floor or even push the walls in on block foundations like mine. So simply sealing the interior walls, floor can raise those pressures on the walls, and floor. Grading landscape if possible and drainage on the exterior is a big key

[@nathanddrews]

A multivariate approach is always best. Good draining backfill soil, french drains, good gutter management, swails, etc. on the outside. Drain tile, sump system, spray foam inside. Guaranteed dry and comfortable basement.

[@rdrangr]

@@mistere5857 Drainage is great to stop water leaks. Add to that a peel-and-stick or liquid spray-on vapor barrier to really keep the moisture out.

[@listinglazily]

So how would this work with radiant floor heating? Can it just be installed as normal over the insulation or would there be another step?

[@RJ-sr5dv]

When the conditions are such that that concrete wall sweats on the inside, where does the water go?

[@zenrook1]

One thing when talking about basements not really discussed on this video how they address water, moisture. What treatment was done to the exterior of the basement wall? I know that Matt is visiting a construction site that probably is beyond having the exterior of the basement wall exposed but some people don't know that concrete is porous and standing water in the concrete can degrade the structural integrity of the wall over time. I look forward to the building on an island series, hopefully they'll talk about that a little more.

[@nathanlowery1141]

Matt has some older videos discussing this. A refresh would be good. But I found what he has to be highly useful. Liquid applied waterproofing with dimple boards and a French drain… I was drooling

[@RJ-sr5dv]

I believe that Standing water against concrete will not degrade the concrete. In fact I understand it will make it harder over time. Concrete poured under water say for bridge supports takes a long time e to cure and gets harder.

[@swimDad66]

Will using the spray foam work with radiant heating?

[@diyoregonnowtexas9202]

Ok, so How do I find a concrete basement professional like this in East Texas?

[@bryanmise1884]

Wade what size stone do you use under the spray foam? #57?

[@WKPConstruction]

3/4” crushed stone

[@bryanmise1884]

@@WKPConstruction thank you! We're going to be doing a similar detail on our new build, @pinelandcottage, in Historic Summerville, SC soon. I hope it comes out as good as yours. #BrilliantIdea - kzbin.info/door/h1gVXZGQWUcaMeUCVKhk1A

[@paulmcgonagle2998]

small size stone works well no compactor needed. The days of shoveling 1-1/2" stone are over 3/8 or 1/2"

[@kavisiegel1792]

I wonder if a system of sleepers could be put on top of that foam, then sprayed again, then the foam trimmed flush with the sleepers. Two layers of overlapping plywood on top. Sleepers would only be to establish flats, not quite load bearing. No need for concrete, no moisture sponge under there to preclude wood or carpet flooring.

[@markfomenko8873]

Insulating the exterior of the basement walls would allow the thermal mass of the walls to be part of the heated/cooled structure.

[@rdrangr]

I've also seen PassiveHouse pour footings onto Type XIV EPS to bring them inside the thermal envelope and eliminate that bridge.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

That's the advantage of ICF.

[@ralph95]

How many years of history with foam under concrete ??

[@hi-ye4rz]

Water tends to wic up and around concrete . Do u have closed cell a round the footing ? When water saturates in concrete it degrades the lime

[@stevenpitera8978]

yea I don't see this working out too well in high water table basements.

[@josephmerritt1411]

You did not come back and discuss how the vertical pipes were being sealed through the floor after talking about the horizontal cored hole with Link Seal..

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Was wondering that.

[@Zach8264]

Any good references out there for waterproofing an old stone foundation basement?

[@RickGrimes807]

Polyurea

[@Zach8264]

@@RickGrimes807 polyurea as in the epoxy floor coatings? Or polyurethane foam in liu of washed out mortar?

[@RickGrimes807]

@@Zach8264 Polyurea has a similar formulation to polyurethane, but the final product is different and has another use. Polyurethane foam expands to provide thermal insulation, but polyurea cures faster and becomes a rigid but very souple membrane used as waterproofing for foundations, roofs, civil engineering waterproofing for roads etc. It's also used in single family residential applications. It's basically a sprayed waterproofing membrane. Sprayed with the same gun as polyurethane foam. Because it's sprayed, it perfectly seals all joints, junctions, gaps, etc just like spray foam does. And different polyurea products have different elasticity properties but most start at an 800x expansion, meaning they can stretch 800x their initial volume, which allows to take any structural movement without ever tearing. Also, polyurea is a sprayed rigid waterproofing membrane, so it's perfectly adhered to the surfaces, which leaves no air gaps that could condensate. From my experience it's really the single best product out there when it comes to waterproofing. They also install it as a combined system: polyurethane foam insulation + polyrea waterproofing on top, all sprayed with the same gun, same contractor = easy, fast and cost-effective solution. I wont name brands of manufacturers because Im just trying to give some basic info about it. I suggest you google it if you wanna know more

[@Zach8264]

@@RickGrimes807 I think I found what you're referring to. It looks promising but I'm unsure if it could fill the gaps. I cannot find the 800x expansion ones you are mentioning. Now the foam insulation could definitely fill the gaps and then waterproof it afterwards same as you mentioned, but would that leave me with trapped hydrostatic pressure behind it? I'm thinking it would. Considering in the past 3 days I've had 2 new springs pop up in my yard. Can't access the other side of that wall either except for 40' outx on the other side of the slab.

[@billmccance7762]

Add rigid EPS to exterior of stone with Silverboard and the cover with a peel and stick membrane such as. Colphene 3000 Soprema and then a dimple board

[@nicholausjamesjay83]

Clever!

[@doomsdaypreppersofsouthcar9301]

Not framing my basement walls...gonna leave them as is...but do i paint them..Dry lock ect??...so many different answers out there

[@jvalal]

What fastener strategy do you use for the furring strips on the ceiling to the I-Joists?

[@georgb4440]

time 9:01, looks like nails.

[@brianherlihy3731]

Was thinking…I wish Matt would do a basement episode and bang there it is. Awesome. Matt please do a basement with CLT ceiling if you can find one.

[@ladislavstastny8163]

I really like the Link Seal method for having the pipes going through concrete. Could someone please let me know where I could purchase the Link Seals? I have not had any luck finding them.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

There's a link in the description or just search in the company he names.

[@billmccance7762]

Make it more simple , use ICF. Use rigid foam on floor. AMPEX for radiant floor

[@zack9912000]

This proven method with long term usage

[@whattheschmidt]

Saves money too I bet...

[@billmccance7762]

@@whattheschmidt I supply AMVIC ICF and its installed at half the cost of plywood formed walls. ICF walls can be built to the roof, saving time on construction for similar cost to wood frame but with more benefits, such as structural strength and longevity, superior seismic performance, fire resistance, insulation already done and continuous, superior noise attenuation, light weight, easy on bodies, warm, 50% less heating or cooling cost than wood frame, few parts to order, ship or install, less waste. Builders who use it love it, others just don't know about it yet I guess. Old traditional builders haven't looked at new methodologies. ICF began in 1967, you would think more folks would use it by now. Cold climate uses ICF alot, hot climates have been getting it more recently. bill@pacificicf Hurricanes don't blow down ICF buildings as you can see on Florida coast. Maybe build more ICF where hurricanes require re building now.

[@jaredbraswell6343]

No concerns with termites being able to use that as a corridor to the rim boards?

[@suavocado69]

This particular house is not in an active termite zone.

[@zack9912000]

@@suavocado69 There are other insects that love to make nests in foam and degrades the foams ability to Insulate

[@jonathangay465]

If in an area where termites are possible, spray foaming to the top with no inspection gap will mean a company can't do a visual termite inspection. Bad news for the home owner.

[@viso7024]

Have you guys used blueduct?

[@Bostonski]

Have been doing that for over 10 years now, but not many listened 25 year old Russian immigrant, telling those old school American builders, there is a better option. Also , exterior of the foundation is where you want closed cell.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Russkies have lots of experience building bomb shelters, lol.

[@BillyJ10]

I have a question. Is there anything you can do to create a thermal break and or prevent moisture wicking up from the footings through the foundation walls

[@shannabolser9428]

Look up a product called fast foot

[@billmccance7762]

Amvic icf wall with Fastfoot footing. The Fastfoot fabric can be screwed into icf webs as waterproofing layer

[@insomniahobbies]

I was always under the impression that one should not seal the slab to the footing.....am I wrong in thinking this?

[@Raymond-mk8cb]

Will the spray foam collapse over time and possibly crack the concrete above it?

[@zack9912000]

Seen it in crawl spaces down south in homes less the 10 years old. In areas where the drainage fails or is poorly designed it fails sooner then that. Had to crawl in plenty of these insulted slab crawl spaces, concrete cracks and with the water degrades the rebar in the slab. This method cuts down substantially on labor and materials for a contractor then doing a proper ICF insulated slab that has a proven track record. Big reason it is done, save them money not nessary the best for the homeowners

[@RickGrimes807]

Foam does not collapse over time. It has a compressive strength equal to XPS board stock insulation. Foam products are also certified for under slab application following relevant national standards (US, Canada, etc.). There's no settling or cracking issue.

[@dr4109]

Spray foam vs 2” foam sheet under the basement floor is much more expensive; is it worth the added cost?

[@zack9912000]

No, it's used because it save your contractor a lot of time not because it's better. ICF properly sealed on each joint installed above a based concrete slab that is then covered with a secondary slab that the build show has shown before is the correct way to do it. Follow the money. What sounds faster, spray foaming directly on the ground then pouring a slab, vs a ICF barrier. To install requires a vapor barrier and based slab to be poured first then adding the ICF panels, cutting and taping all joints and doing your final pour on top. Best part they can charge you more for the spray method that doesn't do as well and takes less labor and materials.

[@grahamd.8713]

In using nails to secure that strapping to the joists, and then hanging the sheetrock on the strapping, is there no concern about the nails working themselves a bit free over a lifetime of flexing and holding up the sheetrock? If one were to apply the sheetrock directly to the joists I don't believe they would use nails... but then why is it okay to merely use nails for the strapping and then hang the sheetrock from it?

[@ratcket11]

The use screws to hang sheet rock

[@rajeshsingh-dl8fj]

Any advise to build house in Ohio? Please advise if you know builder in Dayton Ohio . Thanks

[@McDylanNuggets]

Matt, is that an Olight i3T? Drop a 10440 battery in that bad boy and be amazed. It's my daily carry light now.

[@buildshow]

Yessir that’s my daily carry but only with a normal aaa. I’ll check put that rechargeable upgrade. Thanks!

[@brettknoss486]

Where is link chain sold?

[@stauf6459]

How's that do with radon?

[@snowgorilla9789]

Finally a basement that is you name it proof Love It

[@online_screen_name]

Still curious as to why not put the spray foam on the outside of the basement walls?

[@WKPConstruction]

There are products and systems for the exterior. Here’s one option we installed on this same project: www.buildshownetwork.com/blogs/tuff_n_dri_system

[@online_screen_name]

@@WKPConstruction great and thanks for the reply. Really enjoy seeing the way you do things over there.

[@noreaction1]

Maybe one day we can build basements in south florida

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Water table too high. Florida is basically one huge swamp. Gainesville.

[@platinumwearer20]

Where the link at, Matt? Sheesh. Man I tell ya.

[@davidzbowen24]

Man alive the cost of this basement must be astronomical.

[@vj99912]

What is the name of the person who is working on that basement in New England?

[@samfish6938]

NOW THEY HEAT THE basement

[@willboyko]

I'd like to see what a certified electrician has t say about these "raceway" from your strapping. That's NOT CODE you can't have wires floating along your ceiling. The reason being if any screw goes through your drywall it'll puncture your wire & start a fire.

[@daveklein2826]

LMAO.... do you actually believe that they don't build to code? Damn are you stupid

[@mistere5857]

@@daveklein2826 that's not what he is saying. He's asking a legitimate question about an unscripted comment.

[@daveklein2826]

@@mistere5857 no sir, he made a statement that it was not code, I'm glad you are defending him but like him, get your facts straight

[@PunaJussi]

@@daveklein2826 So Dave, give us the facts.

[@daveklein2826]

@@PunaJussi I'm not the one who said it wasn't code

[@olsenswe]

Why dont you just put the insulation on the out/underside of the conrete structure? Its been standard here in sweden for over 20 years. Putting the insulation on the inside of the basement wall/floor increeses the risk of getting problems with due/mostiure inside of the struture. Perhaps you should get over here Mat, I could hook you up with som great builders!

[@andreycham4797]

Americans are used to forced air heating system and if you build a house with large thermal mass they would not understand why after 10 minutes since they turn a heat on it is still cold

[@RickGrimes807]

This is a retrofit application. The only reason why we insulate homes from the inside in retrofit applications is because insulating from the outside requires soil excavation which is very costly. Insulating from the inside in retrofit applications has been done for decades and works well in homes.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Yeah but you'd be in Sweden.

[@strawberryshirt87]

I love that Build Show ending…

[@joshuacassino7297]

Is the foam somewhat self Leveling? I suppose the concrete would be so it shouldn’t matter to much.

[@buildshow]

Yes. You answered this yourself. The concrete will have a level line they will pour to

[@ship4427]

Feel like the foam will compress slowly over time making the floor weaker.

[@zack9912000]

YEP, we see a lot of issues as it ages in craw spaces and high water table areas. Not a great way to Insulate a slab. Again experimenting on other dimes. Proven methods with ICF that do not cost nearly as much. Labor intensive yes but materials are cheaper and better for the homeowners

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

​@@zack9912000I'd just use a moisture barrier under the slab

[@atmueller]

Why not just Icf? I feel like some of these builds are simply trying to reinvent the wheel

[@zack9912000]

No they are trying to play with someone's else money to see how cheap they can do it, as long as it holds.up till their warranties expire they don't care. Even closed cell foam absorbs water and termites love the stuff. See failed slabs done this way up north here. There is proven ways to Insulate a slab with ICF and there is this. Down south even in Texas has freeze issues that with little water inflation can crack a slab. This method cuts substantial labor and material needed. Not a method good for a homeowner

[@daveklein2826]

Show us your proof

[@RetiredUnderachiever]

What about drainage under that foam? A house is like a boat in the water and water has to go somewhere

[@sladeoriginal]

For the ceiling strapping, I would just use 1/2 drywall to span those tricky areas and 5/8 everywhere else like normal. Or 3/8 and 1/2, whatever the job calls for. Simple to mud and finish the drywall transition.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

That would not work.

[@talljohn5350]

Would there be a risk of insects burrowing into the foam?

[@cerimite7674]

Maybe some borate ducting before the foam application.

[@zack9912000]

@@cerimite7674 Even with it they will eventually still make a home. See it a lot in craw spaces

[@cerimite7674]

This vidio appears to be on a single basement home.

[@zack9912000]

@@cerimite7674 Even with basements you still have to property seal around all ground penetractions with special products to stop insect making it into the home. The spray foam makes that easy.

[@muttBunch]

Wow has building changed. I’m guess no need for a sump pump with this technique ?

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Depends. I'd put ine in though. Sewers have been known to back up.

[@peterbeyer5755]

You need Dincel walls. 100% waterproof!

[@incognito6469]

There is always the one thing not being talked about. In this case: Termites. Termites love to channel through foam. This methods provides a perfect and uninterrupted pathway from the ground to the wood structure of the house. HUGE No No.

[@zack9912000]

Agreed, home builders experimenting on customers dime to find the cheapest way to do things. This will last their home warranty and all the issues this causes will happen just after ot expires.

[@daveklein2826]

Show your proof

[@zack9912000]

@@daveklein2826 You clearly don't work in these homes daily and see how stupid of a design insulating a slab this way. 🙄 Foam breaks down, termites love making homes in it gaining entry into the home and killing the nests are extremely difficult. Add that with the foam holding water freezes in Northern climates cracking the slabs. Then allowing moisture to reach the rebar or metal mesh. See it daily in New home construction in basements and crawl spaces. There are proven time tested methods in insulating slab and there's this

[@daveklein2826]

@@zack9912000 show us your proof or STFU

[@incognito6469]

@@daveklein2826 I have proof, big mouth.

[@samfish6938]

put steel all the way across no poles to hold it up

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

It depends on what the engineer specified.

[@Coleen_West]

Really nice! -- QUESTION -- What is going on @ 09:07 as that does not look right or good. Those beams have a messy 1" gap and are out of level. Did this house shift already? This looks concerning to me and there are small spacing pieces trying to shore it up..What gives Matt? You would never have that on your personal house.

[@MatejKebe]

Or just put XPS boards under the slab.

[@zack9912000]

Adds a ton of labor for the contractor and materials. Personally I have seen nothing by problems with slabs failing with this method vs a properly done ICF poured slab.

[@kytddjj]

Ok

[@BarbaraThorndyke]

Isn't Matt a Texan? I'm not sure he's going to be the best expert on basements or insulation lol.

[@BrendanCBreen]

He lives in Texas, but isn't from Texas.

[@timgleason2527]

I think he said he’s originally a Pittsburgher

[@Historicallybuilt]

Good for certain areas but could end up being termite infested. Termites Love Foam!

[@Barefootnfarmer]

why not just use 2" foam board under the concrete

[@macthemec]

TJI’s dont need braced and they have knock outs for the electricians. Steel beams eliminate the need for posts, the spray foam is cool, i’m just not sure why he built like that

[@paulbetka2966]

. ✌️✌️💪💪💪❤️❤️