3 Ways to Silence your CR-10

[@DanielRenardAnimation]

I got a pair of Motor Vibration Dampers today, but it was a bit harder to install than just 8:33 as my model has a little housing over this entire part, so they could slap a QR code sticker over it. Took me a while, and needless disassembling, before realizing all I had to do was remove the sticker... Thought it was going to be just a fancy little gimmick, but no... I'm actually printing right now and I keep having to look over my shoulder to see if my print is actually done, because I don't even HEAR the nozzle travelling anymore. Well, only when it has to travel, as I set the speed high (Z-axis bar vibration), but this was done because the printer was noisy and I wanted the noise to finish sooner... NOW I can just print at a steady pace, even if the printing carries on into the night, as the cranky ol' man living the floor below will NOT hear the printing-vibrations through my floor! I won't get the fans until late this week, if not next week, but just these two inexpensive vibration dampers have transformed this printer significantly, much to my surprise. The fans will just be for added comfort for myself, mostly! Thanks for making this video! 👍

[@DanielRenardAnimation]

*Update:* I got my fans and installed them... I have to say I was a little underwhelmed, as the box still sounds like a small handheld vacuum cleaner, unless it's the power supply fan (which I similar to this video, didn't touch) is making that sound all on its own. Rather build a small, cheap audio-foam box that it can stand inside. Other than that, the Motor Vibration Dampers are absolutely mind-blowing in how effective they are! Thanks again. 👍

[@3DRevolution]

Really glad it helped! The is for the feedback and good to hear it's quieter now.

[@DanielRenardAnimation]

@@3DRevolution Another update. I installed another vibration dampener on the filament feeder motor, so now my little Z-hops on travelling are extra quiet, as well as found some old rubber exercise bands, which I cut into pieces, unscrewed the Z axis motors and slipped the rubber strips in between the motor and the frame in an L-shape, poked holes for the screws and secured it back nice and tightly. This further reduces the Z-hop squeak/buzz. It's about as quiet is it'll get! 👍

[@3DRevolution]

Great work and thanks for coming back with the update! May all your printing be quiet and spaghetti-less

[@DanielRenardAnimation]

@@3DRevolution I DID have to quickly cancel my first print, because I forgot to account for the half of a millimeter I had just raised my Z-axis with by padding it. 😂 Thanks again for the 'silencing' guide! 👍

[@BRUXXUS]

I'm sure this has been mentioned already, but sound measurements in decibels are logarithmic, meaning each decibel increase of decrease represents a doubling or halving of the sound pressure level. So dropping 15-20 db is an INCREDIBLE reduction!

[@Raphitech]

not each decible but all 6 decibles halfs/doubles the noise

[@zacktiesta5232]

The noise of the steppers cannot be measured by moving axises, instead you need to put them in printing mode because their movement speed is in fact much higher. Clear and well presented instructions

[@vcancer]

Many thanks! I'm a member of the CR-10 Group on Facebook but no one ever shows you on there by video how to do this. But they do help with many other problems I had in the past. Will be doing these mods within this month to my Printer. Cheers!

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Victor, I'm a member of that Facebook group too. It's a great source of info. I think I shared this video on there when I first posted but glad it's still reaching people. Hope the mods go well!

[@TheFlash8889]

You can just pull out the blue stripes in the frame without dismounting anything because they are out of a felxible material and not stiff... It also was unnescesarry to pull out the one on the horizontal top bar. There are no moving parts at all ;)

[@JoshuaHaasua]

I was like "Great name!" then looked down and had the same shirt on. Freaked me out a little. Great video!

[@Tump2010]

where was the movement of the X/Y axis so we could hear how loud it was and if there was a change?

[@JohnWPB]

@ 8:29 into the video, Yes, I noticed the REALLY cool transition. I know time and effort was spent on that 2 seconds of footage. When I notice something like this, I like to give credit where credit is due. Thanks also for a very informative video. I just got my CR10s today, and already realize it is far too noisy for my taste! Subscribed, and will be back to watch again when all the parts get here for the mods. Thanks Again!

[@3DRevolution]

Hi John, Thanks very much for your comment. It's always appreciated to hear people are enjoying the videos. I hope the changes help you and I look forward to hearing how it all turns out.

[@RX---]

Another important topic is reduce the desk vibrations if you live in an apartament, because those vibrations in the floor (Ex. wood floor), are transformed in noise to apartament below. A great solution is use a rubber or yoga carpet below desk.

[@3DRevolution]

Absolutely. I've actually designed some very effective rubberised vibration dampening feet for the CR10 which I'll be popping up on my Thingiverse account soon!

[@compubyte2010]

@@3DRevolution Do me a favor please. you're replying to everyone else's msg except the most important comment on here?? which is the one above this msg from Jean-Marc Van Laethem re: the rubber on the stepper dampers causing motors to wear out quicker? I'll assume that you just missed it?

[@urjnlegend]

@@compubyte2010 why don't you answer it

[@retro3dprinting]

Nice. I made similar changes before found your video, but now my CR10 is in the basement and I switched to Alfawise U10 where I made lot more changes to silence it even more. Also replaced the stepper drivers by TMC2208, which made the printer really silent. Pity, CR10 has no replaceable stepsticks.

[@derekrevell]

I mounted my control unit under the desk, thus minimising a lot of the fan noise, not that is was that noisy to start with, the real noise came from the upper bearings on the Z axis leadscrews, the noise was occurring whenever the X axis was moving, because the Z axis leadscrew are so long on the 5S they resonate, I removed the steel roller bearings, measured them and printed solid replacements, no more Z axis noise.

[@MsSomeonenew]

The best direction for quiet cooling is always getting the biggest fan you can fit and running it slowly, then add any ducting possible to make the air only go where it should be. And then you usually also find multiple fans can be removed, that PSU can probably do with a single large fan if you duct everything to the right spots.

[@Mark_5150]

When you install the dampers you need to move the gear in 6mm or so to make up for the thickness of the damper. depending on the printer, you may need to remove the gear and flip it around to get the proper alignment.

[@jmtx.]

Thanks for a very detailed video on each of the steps needed for the upgrades. A lot of the reasoning and procedures can be used for upgrading other printers!

[@timwelch175]

Had to sub just because I like the way you explain things. Im actually dealing with a shot case fan right now that SCREAMS and while I have experience with building PC's, I like to do some research before diving into something new (in this case my CR-10's control box) and yours was the first to pop up. I removed my rubber slot covers before I even assembled my printer because I got the bright orange ones and I absolutely despise that color. However, I have read that they actually are meant to dampen the sound of vibration traveling through the aluminum extrusions the printer is built out of, and may be reinstalling them. I heard you explain how they may "rub" and in the past year of watching my printer in action I just cant see how that is even physically possible unless one put this unit together VERY sloppy like. Really appreciate your video though, and will be checking out your channel, thanks!

[@marcosdiez7263]

Nice video! However (for the next time)... you didn't need to cut the fan wires! they're plugged to the board, at most you need to replace the three pins male plug that came with the new fan with a two pins one. Moreover, if you're careful enough you may not have to solder wires at all, just release the pin notches from the three pins plugs and put them into the two pins male plug (a new one or the original one).

[@daviddraven8115]

please show me .. i am looking to do these but not really into soldering...so the fans he suggested are the good ones to buy or you got others to link to that i can plug and play like you said?

[@infernaldaedra]

@@daviddraven8115 if you look at one side of a fan connector, or most connectors you can see little tabs with metal inside that piece of metal holds the pins inside the connector. You just need to gently push them with a paperclip or something similar to release the pins. It may be possible to move the pins onto the new fan or just buy new ones at a hobby shop. Do this for both fans and you can actually swap the connectors.

[@clutch2827]

You cannot transplant the new fan wires to the existing plug. The pins are different. At the very least you'll have to solder new pins onto the new fan if you want to use the existing plug.

[@dongyo69]

Hi. Can u please make a proper video. Thanks

[@ZeroInDaHouse]

One very simple and very effective thing you can also do is to put foam (the one used for shipping and packing products) underneath the printer. However print some small square plates to put on top of the foam to spread out the pressure and prevent the printer legs from indenting the foam and rendering it useless.

[@abbynormal728]

I have several of these and the rubber strips seem to dampen a lot of the noise. The ones without the strips are simply louder overall.

[@JeremiahAtkinson]

I would’ve liked to of seen the blue strip stay in place to do the test for dB and then remove them just to see if they made any difference at all

[@cheeriomartinez]

But what if you can't pull out the small gear pulley thing off? I see most are removeable with a small screw, but mine is glued on.

[@davidcrocker4285]

Some CR10 users have upgraded the controller electronics to Duet WiFi or Duet Ethernet. These controllers support x256 microstepping, so they make the stepper motors very quiet without using dampers. The stepper drivers on the Duets generate only about half as much heat as the ones used on other controllers, so it's quite likely that you wouldn't need both of the fans. Here www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?pid=31702#p31702 is a link to a thread by a user who did the conversion.

[@carltrotter7622]

For me noise is not an issue but I would still recommend these upgrades as it stops vibrations which can lead to some print issues!

[@dascodraws6040]

which wire is ground on the gelid!?

[@Topper_Harley68]

The size of the Noctua fans boxes is ridiculously big. And I also am going to do this incl the hotend fan cause the noise is extreme.

[@brickguy]

Is this the real one because on the image on amazon UK it's hictop which isn't creality

[@davelordy]

I would decouple the printer/controller from the surface it sits on, this will help prevent the low frequencies (the hum) from turning your table/desk into a speaker.

[@PatDooley50]

Great video. I like the way you broke everything down. Very clear

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks! Glad you liked it! Plenty more videos on the way!

[@jonhuss6783]

Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?

[@rOSScOGITANS]

problems of dumpeners are that stepper motors became very hot! there is no more contact with the alluminum structure so you have to put on the stepper motors some heatsink!

[@manzala3dprintpaint539]

GREAT Video! :) I myself ordered nema17 dampeners about a month ago but I'm still waiting on them.

[@3DRevolution]

Manzala 3D Print & Paint Thanks. I've got to say, I doubted how much of a difference they'd make but I'm really impressed. Well worth the wait. They can take a while. I'd actually forgotten I'd even ordered them when they arrived.

[@DrakeyCakes7]

I've replaced both of the fans inside the control box but I am now getting an ERR:MINTEMP message. Any ideas what it might be?

[@jlewis8521]

Good video. For those looking to remove colored strips, just take a fingernail or something of some sort and pry up the edges then just pull them out. No need to take anything apart.

[@3dprintwiz378]

Just wanted to ask if it affects print quality. Coz, just in theory though, when you have that dampeners installed and there is a sudden change in stepper direction, the rubber may have a tendency to twist and therefore target coordinates may overshoot.

[@3DRevolution]

Hi there, I can happily confirm a year after making these changes that print quality was unchanged.

[@babylonfive]

Great stuff. You deserve an immediate sub. Looking forward to more.

[@3DRevolution]

David W. Smith Thank you very much! Glad you liked it! I'm moving house at the moment but videos should start flowing again in just over a week. Got some exciting stuff planned!

[@HansMilling]

Great video, and very in depth description. Also thanks for the links to the fans.

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks Hans, glad it helped! Happy Printing!

[@able724]

My only concern would be if you reduced the amount of air that those fans were moving to the point that you reduced the effectiveness of the cooling on the circuit board. It's now been several months since your modifications. How is the printer fairing?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi there, I'm happy to say a year on and everything is still running great with no problems. Thanks for your comment and hope your printing is going well.

[@Thomas_Ricks_]

nice! I might consider the fan upgrades. also, you don't need to take apart the frame to remove the strips. you can just put a small screwdriver under the edge of one of them then pry out and pull it out as it is rubber.

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks. Let me know how the upgrades go! Yeah, you can pry them out, however, I've read on some printers the rubber strip can be quite firm and doesn't come out that easily that way so this way it just ensures anyone with a printer like that isn't putting undue strain on the frame whilst removing them.

[@Thomas_Ricks_]

yeah... I thought they were all flexible like that.

[@maxun1]

No true.

[@maxun1]

No need to desassembly anything for the rubber strip. useless step.

[@3DRevolution]

maxun1 I've mentioned in several comments below, on some models people have received, the rubber strips are much more rigid than on others and put up a real fight when trying to remove it without opening up the frame. Rather than telling people to just pull them out, and risk them damaging their frames by exerting too much force, I've suggested the one size fits all approach.

[@blackbusiness7]

Fantastic vid! I will attempt this at some point in the near future.

[@squidsquid5287]

Can you do a video where you replace the fan on the extruder, and maybe the one in the PSU if you think it is safe to open it up replace it?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Squid squid, it's on the list and something I hope to do later this year.

[@bstrempel]

Cheers! Next a dual extruder addon please !

[@jasonvoorhees8799]

Never put my trim in. Like it black like I like.. whataminute.. I have a toothed pulley on the X axis end. I need to check your new videos.

[@louierodriguez7026]

I would like to see how you go about replacing worn out bearings on Z axis and hot end bracket bearings

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll add it to the list for this year!

[@alanartt3138]

Just did the two case fans but the Gelid 5 is intermittent. Soemtiems it does not start up when the printer is powered up. I have checked the wiring and all seems OK, and ideas?

[@3DRevolution]

Check that the fans you bought are the correct type and not the PMW style, if they are the correct straight voltage type, then yes, just check your solder points and make sure there's no loose connections.

[@drew42228]

Great stuff very clear and easy to understand. Keep it up.

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks, hope it helps!

[@listeningto8371]

Leatherman! wow! that's some sneaky product placement

[@3DRevolution]

Haha, I've had that badboy for I think 12 years now. Bought a new one whilst I was on a job in the US a couple of years back and it's already started locking up. Don't make em like they used to.

[@abinder3]

Why did you remove the top horizontal blue strip? The other blue strips that you removed can easily be removed without removing the parts that you did.

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Abinder, I removed the top strip simply for aesthetic reasons. As I was removing all the other front facing ones I felt the top one would look out of place. As for removing the other ones like I did, you can wedge pliers in and pull them out of the socket without undoing the frame, however, depending on where you bought your printer from, these strips are sometimes quite firm which can make this difficult, but most of all, it's just putting unnecessary pressure and stress on your frame.

[@alexscarbro796]

3D Revolution do the blue inserts, given their soft compound, not actually dampen resonances in the extrusions?

[@-Gunnarsson-]

How good quality is the rollers and the frame parts? Roundness and straightness

[@jamesdavies686]

What size is the power supply fan if I want to replace that as well?

[@loubano]

Hello, Thank for this great video, you really motivate me to replace my Fan 😀 I got a CR10 V2, I got a quick look inside and > The Fan for ventillation is a (50x10) :Creality PD05015MS4 DC 24V then I do not think that I could replaced with the one that replace (Gelid Solutions Silent 5) since it's a 12V ? The previous one for you was also a 12 V? MY next question is How did you fix your camera on your bed since so far I did not find a way to do so. thanks in advance for your help 😀😀😀😀😀😀 Best Regards Cedric France

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Cedric, Really sorry for the late reply. As you'll see from a recent video I posted ("I'm Back"), I haven't been able to post again for a while and I'm now catching up with everything on my channel and have some new posts coming out. As for your questions, regarding the fans you mentioned, I don't actually have my CR10 anymore so I'm not able to 100% check which fan(s) it used I'm afraid. However, if yours is currently fitted with a 24v one, replacing it with a 12v is not a good idea I'm afraid. It may be that for the V2 they upped it to a 24v to increase airflow? Regarding the camera on the bed, I printed an arm that fitted over one corner of the mounting points for the bed (so it was clipped on benieth the bed in the front corner and screwed on using the same screw holding the bed itself. If you check out Thingiverse (or better yet, Printables), for print-bed camera mounts for CR10, there should be a fair few to chose from. Thanks for your comment, and happy printing!

[@loubano]

@@3DRevolution thank you very much for your answer and information. If your back I will check your channel for every new video 😉😀👍 Thanks a lot ! Cedric France 🇫🇷

[@johnlocke3481]

@13:05 you do some editing that makes me feel as though the x-axis was still noisy and you are pretending like the isolator mounts worked when they didn't. This may not be the case, but you sort of cut away from being able to see the machine moving, and went to some other footage and then came back and said "it worked"

[@3DRevolution]

Hi John, the cut was in no way intended to deceive. I cut from a wide shot to a shot where you could clearly read the value on the screen. Effectively I filmed the whole process in the wide, the reset the camera for the tight shot and did the whole process with the tight angle and just cut between the two. I'm sorry if you felt you were in any way mislead. The whole reason I started my channel was to offer easy to understand and honest tips and tutorials in 3D printing and tech. I've never wanted to misinform or mislead. I can assure you that was also not the case here

[@8safety]

Where you ever able to do a redesign for the X-axis end washer?

[@douglasfolk3835]

You do not need to pull the end parts off to remove the "rubber strip". Just grab with a long. Nose pliers or a paper clip and extract. Easy no changes to settings.

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Douglas, thanks for your comment. Many CR-10 owners can remove them like that, yes, however, depending on where you bought your CR-10 from, and on which batch it was, the rubber strips can be considerably more rigid than in others. In these cases, trying to pull them out like that can cause the user to exhert considerable force and strain on the frame of the printer and I felt it would be far better to recommend the longer safer option, than have people following my video damage their printers.

[@silosteve5101]

Haha you should have shown the original decibels when ... printing. Especially timely prints. There is a point where it resonates and sounds like a pig getting slaughtered. I did the upgrades for the steppers x and y axis before seeing your video. I don't know the decibels, but for me noise went from 9/10 to 2/10.

[@ColdConceptOfficial]

Dude what was the reading when u moved the x-axis? Couldnt see anything on the phone screen there :)

[@pieplay]

Hey Does the PSU make noise? Could you maybe use a quiet pc PSU, I hear the CR10 is 12v?

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Pieter, yes the PSU does make noise due to the cooling fan. It is possible to replace the fan but I chose not to cover that in this video as opening up the PSU can be dangerous and I didn't want to encourage people who didn't know what they were doing to start messing with mains voltage.

[@pieplay]

​@@3DRevolution In the past 2 months since I've posted this. I've went full noctua on my ender 3 replacing it's PSU fan by a larger NF-18 and the extruder fan by a NF-A4x20 resulting in a noise level 22 db without the layerfan. I did have a faulty power connector that burned when I used the silent board's preheat all parallel feature.

[@toepunch001]

Are you only removing the plastic strips to look different?

[@brunomarques309]

Thanks for the video! Just did the control box's fan upgrade but got a bad surprise when trying to screw in place the noctua fan at the back..: The screws provided with the original fan were too short by ~1mm, preventing me from putting the noctua in place. I had to go to the hardware store to buy new screws, that ended up being too long.. used a dremmel to shorten them up..! You didn't have that problem?

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Bruno, thanks for getting in touch. I sorry to hear you had issues with the screws, I didn't have that issue with mine in afraid and was able to just use the stock screws that the original fan used. It does seem that specifics of some small things like that vary from batch to batch of creality printers unfortunately. Thanks for letting me know though, I'll pop a comment on the video to let people know they may need longer screws. I hope at least it had helped make the printer quieter? I'll be uploading a follow up video this weekend on how to make it even quieter.

[@brunomarques309]

Thanks for replying! Well actually, I didn't get a very big decibel drop from changing the fans in the control box (between 5 and 10dB less, according to the app on my non-calibrated smartphone's microphone...) Though I just changed the fan on the heatbreak, and the noise drop is UNBELIEVABLE! Need to be careful though, as the stock fan takes 0.1A, and the noctua A4x10 only handles 0.05A.. I burnt one before realising... It might actually have been a big mistake..: the noctua I put on blows 4.8CFM, while the stock fan blows at about 10 CFM... more silent, but also much less powerful. I probably should have waited for your video before trying this upgrade...! :/

[@Damjanhd]

if you really wants to quiet down this printer you don't need to change fans but add temperature controller for fans. When it heat up, but usually will not it will speed up fans.

[@ThaimachineFilms]

why u remove the blue rubber thing ?

[@misterblort]

The direction of the fan is also important..

[@adaptivetech8165]

I have a question why cant you just unplug the old fan and plug in the new fan into the port? Why do you need to soldier?

[@DogsBAwesome]

most good fans have a third wire for sensing the speed and the plug is different.

[@PongoXBongo]

Would be nice if the printer mobos used 3-wire or even PWM fans instead (maybe the pricier ones do?). And had temp sensing that only turns them on if needed.

[@MrDeBabba]

My Gelid Silent 5 isn't spinning either... Is its activty temperature-dependent or is it supposed to be active all the time? Can anyone help?

[@LastJoris]

It should be active all the time since you're not using the pwm of the fan. Just the +12V and ground. Make sure you have the correct wires attached, do a quick google search for the datasheet.

[@michalmichalsk]

gelid fan is placed wrong way.

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks Michal, yes I realised this a little later and switched it around. I'll add a note to the video to make sure others are aware too.

[@patrickrenschler]

​@@3DRevolution I don't think this was updated in the video yet

[@Atrac89]

How did you find out which wire was ground and power on the silent 5 fan?

[@3DRevolution]

The easiest way I've found is to use a small 12v battery (Like A23's), pop a wire in two of the three pin slots on the fitted connector, test it on the battery and swap the wires until you get the result you need. Once you've figured it out, use some electrical tape or a sharpy to clearly mark which wire is which.

[@otto85521]

There is a specification picture I used: gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/case-fan-silent-5/ Press the "specification" button on the right and you will see following picture: d3mezvacowwm2m.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Silent_Fan_Wiring-700x533.jpg So 12v is middle, ground is on the right. Ground has also some text marks on it, which are so small I cannot read

[@Atrac89]

Wow thank you so much!

[@LXTronix]

my noctua fan got 4 wires, black yellow blue and green, the way I figured it out was taking a voltmeter and measure from black to the three other colours while blowing air through the fan so that it rotated, yellow and black was the only combination that resulted in an induced voltage so I assume yellow is + and black is ground

[@dennish3d]

Help!!!! Looking at the picture, which I also found on the Gelid website, with the pin lock tabs showing, just like the picture, the wire with the writing on it is on the left, unlike the picture. If the wire with the writing on it is absolutely ground(-) then the factory installed connector is wired backward on my new out of the box fan. Anyone have any clearification on this? Thanks in advance!

[@Bonjour-World]

So the "Z" and "E" motors did not get dampers? Does not the "E" motor get the most operational time ?

[@3DRevolution]

Both Z and E motors run extremely slowly compared to the X and Y motors and don't generate vibrations of significantly audible sounds. The dampers wouldn't make any difference to the Z and E motors so are just an unnecessary extra bit of work.

[@arch.samertaleb]

what is your watch's brand

[@DogsBAwesome]

you can add a thermal switch to the psu fan so it only comes on when it needs to. There's a space for it on the psu. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gn_ci6GcrpiViKc

[@anthonyjobson]

Thanks Brian!

[@colebecker9460]

Can you figure out how to make the Flash forge creator pro quieter ?!

[@3DRevolution]

GottIt Becker It's on my list and something I'll be working on over the next few weeks

[@3D_Printing]

Info about the Noise level app Please link Thanks: Gelid Silent fans are really quiet I have some

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Protomaker. Here's the app I was using in the video: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamebasic.decibel Free on Google PlayStore for Android. Hope the video helped!

[@3D_Printing]

Thanking you 2000%

[@3D_Printing]

Got it on my mobile now, seemed quite sensitive to sound, I know I can adjust it great:)

[@3DRevolution]

Yeah I found it quite sensitive too. I did calibrate it once i'd installed it, but for the purpose of the video, even if the actual values aren't 100%, it's the relative difference that really mattered here :)

[@3D_Printing]

Yes, P.S. GREAT Video

[@rahanellies9513]

Nice Vid! Would a gelid silent 6 fan work for the power supply? Planning to change each fan in the control box with the gelid silent variants

[@nickcooper7179]

What size fans did you use? Is the control box layout similar for the CR-10s as well?

[@shaunbags3429]

thanks mate, ordered the fans now!, thing was starting to drive me nuts...

[@Gentlyjack1]

When is the follow up video on silencing the CR-10 going to come by?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Eric, sorry for the delay in the follow up. Unfortunately I'm in the middle of moving house at the moment and as a result of some hold ups, I've not been able to get my printers fully set up for videos yet. Rest assured, they are coming.

[@iinRez]

I imagine some footies for the printer will help as well.

[@philipp3850]

does the V2 have the same fans ?

[@3DRevolution]

I'm not sure I'm afraid. Sorry.

[@Urk0ZzZ]

I think the one that makes the most sound its the hot end fan, why dont change that one?

[@3DRevolution]

I will be doing this on another video later this week (As soon as the fan arrives). Watch this space.

[@FunTechandMore]

3D Revolution also the psi fan is louder than anything else. Waiting for your video on that one too

[@kevinrocksman]

you need airflow, at least 3 cfm. Problem is quieter fans do not have the capability of doing so. I have seen so many peoples printers jam due to the filament not being sufficiently cooled in the heatbreak. I admin the cr-10 user page and see this constantly

[@Urk0ZzZ]

happened to me lol, but i think was a problem with the barrel, im still using the noctua for the hot end and so far it goes ok, witch one do you recomend that be more quiet than the original but with more cfm than the noctua, sorry for the english xd

[@kevinrocksman]

Yoqsetioxd haven't really looked to hard but just try to find one that is capable of minimum 3cfm and is qyiet and it should work fine

[@kevinrocksman]

His is removing the rubber strips siliencing anything?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Kevin, This was more of an experiment to be honest. As I mention in the video, I'd heard rumours of people saying that parts of the X axis were rubbing on the rubber strip causing fruction which could both cause sound and print errors. I've no idea if that is actually the case but I kind of prefer the look without them anyway so I removed them when doing the rest of this work.

[@tomgraham2604]

Great video, But those strips can just be pulled out as they are. No need to remove anything. Just something to pry them out and pull out frontwards.

[@3DRevolution]

Thank you very much Beagz, glad you enjoyed the video. Yes the strips can just be pulled out but I'd read a number of people saying that theirs were produced with extra stiff rubber and I didn't want to advise people putting undue force on their printer when trying to remove them so was more a precaution than anything

[@JamesBrowett]

Upload more, your videos are great!

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks James, there's been a bit of silence as I've been moving house, but more videos are indeed on the way!

[@mimked]

Did you ever fix the belt issue?

[@dwho3]

Are they 24v fans you replaced

[@3DRevolution]

Hey, I'm very sorry for the late reply. I've been recovering from a serious accident since July last year and whilst I've been reposting for the last couple of months I'm now getting round to catching up on my comments. I'm afraid I don't still have my CR-10 now. However, I belive they were 12v fans, but that the CR10s (the more recent one) used a 24v fan so that will likely require a 24v one for replacement.

[@matthewdavidson8920]

Can you add purchase links to the fans and motor parts for the U.S.

[@3DRevolution]

Absolutely. I've added them to the description now but here you are for convenience: - Creality CR-10: amzn.to/2AVEBj0 - Gelid Silent 5 Fan: amzn.to/2zLAacE - Noctua NF A4X20 Fan: amzn.to/2A6JWqD - Motor Vibration Dampers: amzn.to/2AVgCkj

[@matthewdavidson8920]

3D Revolution THANK YOU

[@matthewdavidson8920]

3D Revolution That made finding the parts so much easier amd also for me to know that I have the right part so thank you

[@3DRevolution]

Matthew Davidson Glad it helped! I hadn't even thought about the fact that my amazon links would only be valid for UK viewers so thanks for letting me know. I've now added US links to all my videos that link to products available in the US.

[@matthewdavidson8920]

3D Revolution THANK YOU that is awesome Your channel is awesome So thank you

[@TheTerracide]

If you add TL Smoothers you will make it a lot more quiet.

[@SilvioPola]

Hi, thank you for your tutorial, could you post, if you have printed it, the SDL of your control unit blue support ?

[@EaziGX]

Hi, thanks for this. Do you know if the CR10 mini will need the same parts and process thanks.

[@3DRevolution]

Hi EaziG, would this be the CR10 mini or the CR10s mini?

[@EaziGX]

3D Revolution Hi, Thanks for the reply, it's just the CR10 mini. (I dont think there is a '(s) mini' to my knowledge. Only the full size CR10S?). I've researched it further and they appear to use the same control unit so the mods you showed should work fine. I'll post a comment if it works ok with the mini I case others are interested. Thanks again for the video.

[@danieleformica2920]

EaziG have you tried? The mod work fine on CR-10 Mini?

[@EaziGX]

Daniele Formica Hi I haven't tried it actually since after receiving the CR10mini it wasn't as loud as I expected. So I have left it in its normal state. I still may try it in the future because I had a good look at the CR10mini and everything appears to be identical. Especially the control box, it's the same one. Everything in this video should work just fine.

[@RX---]

I dude, Thanks!... actually I only changed the NEMA17 motor support, and only doing that, it reduce 10dB !!

[@LegacyMicro]

The most surprising part is to see that Creality is using Nidec Branded fans for the exhaust. I don't think I would change it out.

[@danieleformica2920]

Have you had gain noise reduction changing only circulation fun? Do tuo know the Nidec's model?

[@matthewdavidson8920]

How come even though I bought my cr10 from the same place as you have a link to in the description, the screen of my cr10 looks different?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Matthew, are you in the UK or America? I'm in the UK and have provided links to the same product in the UK and the USA. However, they are from different suppliers so there is a chance they have provided you with a slightly updated version of the CR-10

[@matthewdavidson8920]

3D Revolution I am in America.

[@matthewdavidson8920]

3D Revolution also what it the max temperature that the nozzle can heat up to electronically?

[@MrEffys]

is it ok to use the noctua pwm version ? becouse the normal 12v out of stock ?

[@3DRevolution]

I haven't tried it myself but I have a feeling the PWM ones require PWM signals to reach full speed potential.

[@dougswaby575]

Have you had to change any settings in particular since you added the dampers?

[@3DRevolution]

Nope. They shouldn't in any way affect the way your printer works. The belt is still being held in the same position as the gear has just been moved further along the motor shaft, and the motors are still functioning the same. Everything should run just as it did before, just quieter.

[@REDxFROG]

Where are the TL Smoothers?

[@jonthemachine1970]

What I am curious about is why most all printer makers are still using Micro SD/TF cards. They are easy to lose and sometimes shoot out across the table.

[@ianmcmill]

Must be a real PITA using a Creality XX. My P3Steel Toolson with bronze sinter bearings runs at 34db with A4988 drivers out of the box. It sits behind me and every now and then I have to turn around to see if the print has already ended.

[@Carlos-hb6rn]

Thanks for the info. Just wondering, can the CR-10S be upgraded with the same fans listed in your description ?

[@itskevyn]

It's the same control box, so yes. There is less room inside because the 10S has a larger motherboard, but yes those fans and these steps will work on a CR-10S.

[@HuwFerris-John]

Any idea what the fan in the psu is?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Huw, I'm afraid I haven't opened up teh PSU yet but when I do I'll do a video on it.

[@HuwFerris-John]

3D Revolution Hi thanks for the reply. I ended up opening it and have upgraded it, silent now :)

[@metuz]

Thanks, going to get some vibration dampers for mine, don't really need to change fans, can't hear them from outside the room. but the motor is hearable from the hole house :D

[@JAYTEEAU]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, JAYTEE

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks Jay, glad you liked it!

[@padingre]

Wicked! I have been searching and can across many videos good and bad on mods for the CR10. These mods for reducing sound are to be the first to do on my friends CR10 once I get to it! Question: Since it has been almost a year that you have posted this video, are the fans used the same for the CR10 regardless of the size (example the 5S)? Thanks for the video and I have subscribes, turned on the alert and gave it a thumbs up! :)

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Gregorio, Thanks for your comment and I'm so sorry for the late reply. I've been out of the country most of this year on work. I'm so glad you liked the video. Regarding the fans, I'm afraid I'm not 100% on the 5S but what I can confirm is that a year on and the fans I replaced in the printer are still going strong.

[@jonmarkwright]

Personally i do not think there is much reduction in noise by changing these fans. The fan that kicks out all the noise is the pay fan.

[@RuggedGoodLooks]

wait wheres the washer go??? You didnt show it!

[@3DRevolution]

Apologies, the video is quite old now, which washer are you referring to I'll try and help out.