3 Weeks Wasted on a Crank Axle?! - Steam Loco No. 27

[@roberthopper1872]

Oh no! Quick tip when filing the corners on a lathe, hold the file over the back with the handle facing upwards to that if it grabs, the file goes upwards rather than at you.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

That’s a really good tip! Thank you very much

[@markshomeengineering5243]

As Union310 has commented. Use a single piece for the axle, then cut out the relevant parts. All your other parts should be good. Use some heat to break the joints and have another go. Good luck 👍

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Thanks, Mark! The challenge with doing that is that I think I will then need to enlarge the website and thus remake those too!

[@markshomeengineering5243]

I did wonder if that would be the case. Take your time, get your set up right and fingers crossed you'll crack it next time.

[@jamesburden6009]

Sorry to see that William but is great that you have posted this - shows the pitfalls as well as the successes. We’ve all been there, and they are the best lessons 🙂. I would go the single piece route for the main shaft and re use the webs as others have said. Onwards and Upwards 🙂

[@williamsworkshopuk]

That’s definitely on the cards! I really wanted to build this as written, but we’ll just have to see how it goes

[@GWRDukedog9021]

Sorry about your crank axle William. I wonder if you had too much of a loose fit with the pieces? I dont think Locktite would take up any slack as such. You'll find a way, you always do. I have a similar issue with my Pansy's crank axle. Something has moved!

[@union310]

Loctite will take 1 thou.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I think the biggest problem is the slack fit of the centre axle! Because both stub axles and they’re associated crank web pairs are at perfect right angles

[@georgeclements2742]

Commiseration William. Hope that all is well otherwise and that the little 'un is progressing well.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Baby is excellent, we’ll have her passed as a driver before she can walk ;)

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Oh no. 😮 I feel your pain 😢

[@williamsworkshopuk]

It’s all a learning process, so no time wasted

[@footloose6382]

If I could make a suggestion; you could heat the crank to break the grip of the Loctite then make a jig to hold it true and try again.

[@GoCreatehms]

Yeah, you could possibly use a matched pair of vee blocks clamped inline with eachother on the mill table and then use them to align the two end shafts on re assembly. This could align the end shafts, if the centre shaft is out a bit it shouldn't matter. In any case don't despair, it's a learning experience.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

That’s going to be my first port of call

[@GardenTractorBoy]

It is a shame but it the crank does look good. It is interesting to read the suggestions in the comments, I hope you find a good solution

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’m glad it looks good, and really, there’s only about one third of a millimetre - but that’s just enough to cause problems

[@MrFactotum]

eyup William Hard luck, but no pain no gain, maybe you should have loctited them and then held them between centres to set, that way you would have the faces pushing together, just a thought, you only want 0.0005" tilt to exagerate much more over that length and accumulate. As for the hexacut, it might not be the belt, but may be the slide jamming up, either a burr or lack of clean oil. again just a thought. Back to the drawing board, been there and got the tee shirt!!🤔🤔👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 BFN Kev

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Hi Kev, at what point to hold the axles between centres? the final setup?

[@CraigLYoung]

You should buy Kozo Hiraoka's book titled "Building the Shay" locomotive. Starting on page 37 tells a great way to turn a shaft from single stock. Much less hassle.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

To be honest, machine in the entire thing from solid is my least preferred option! I did that on my Stuart 10 V and it took forever

[@union310]

A reamer is usually as purchased an H7 which is clearance

[@williamsworkshopuk]

That makes a lot of sense. For future reference, I should be boring then?

[@union310]

Better to have used a single axle, then pin and glue. Once dry cut out the portions you need to. Better still machine from solid.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’m sure that’s a more sensible plan. However, if I do that, then I have to resize the crank webs-so I am going to give this a shot as it is first.

[@union310]

@@williamsworkshopuk Have a look in Martin Evans book, the one with the white cover and a simplex on it . Locomotive construction manual or something similar

[@williamsworkshopuk]

@@union310 I think I have this book- model steam locomotive design?

[@union310]

@@williamsworkshopuk I think that is the one

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

Heat it up and pull it apart , clean it up and try again ! You might be better off machining a custom jig to holes everything in alignment . The alternative is to salvage the webs , re make the shafts and journals oversized then loctite it all together then machine it as an assembly .

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Do you have any tips on getting the Loctite residue off of the steel?

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

@@williamsworkshopuk Wire wheel is the only thing I have found that will touch it , maybe a scotchbrite wheel will as well .

[@Rustinox]

Oops.... But I'm sure you will fix it without re-machining new parts.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

No idea how yet!

[@gagasmancave8859]

All is not lost heat it up to break the l9cktight , carful of the fumes, keep the cranks and stubs and eccentric make a new axle Assemble cranks and stubs and pin them reassemble every thing on the new axle with locktight When your happy with concentricity cut out the bits not needed, CHECK YOUR CUTTING THE RIGHT BITS lo.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

The problem with using a piece of solid bar is that the diameter of the crank pins is larger than the diameter of the holes in the webs. If I enlarge the web hole to fit a solid shaft all the way through, then the webs will be too week.