#36 Filling A Gap At A Rail Joiner

Absolute proof that you can fill a gap between rails at a rail joiner

[@mlkesimmons758]

Always interesting to see a another way to do things.

[@tracynation2820]

Super. I've done this since I was a kid. Even though I had short pieces of track available, sometimes I just Thermite welded a piece of rail where one was needed. I add a few ties, maybe a sign or some details, and it gives the track character, and after fifty years, some of my track has a lot of character. I've even seen real railroads do this. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.

[@williamcasper6215]

I'm glad to know I'm not the only one. This is generally a quick fix; however, it does last if you do it right.

[@shemp308]

this is one of the better answers (help) I have seen on KZbin! I have done similar by cutting a piece and actually putting it in like 3 pieces of track!

[@peters1127]

Thank you, you just solved one of my problems.

[@johnramirez5996]

I just cut out small section. Then when you get a track kit it comes with multiple sizes. Down to about 1in. Cut enough out to place a smaller precut piece.

[@williamcasper6215]

My thanks to you and Michael for reminding me about sectional track. Atlas sells sections as small as 3/8". They are sold separately from track kits and can, indeed, be used to replace damaged tracks on a straight away. Still, the most likely place to have an oversized gap at a joint is on a curve, so keep this idea in your playbook. It is tedious, but far less invasive than tearing out and replacing even a small section of track. I have found it useful at exhibitions when my track has contracted during cold weather in my garage.

[@AstroKnight187]

You can also leave the flange and slide it on the joiner for a more permanent connection

[@williamcasper6215]

I'm not sure how you could slide it on the joiner with track blocking both ends of the joiner. This clinic is intended to show how to fix a gap at a show where you would not have time to tear out the track and re-lay it. Perhaps I should have been more explicit in my description of this clinic. Thanks for your input.

[@bedarailmodels]

Replace the flex.....use it somewhere else......fix it properly

[@aaronandraquel]

Ok, but what about the huge gap under the rails due to the removal of ties? How do you replace the ties?

[@williamcasper6215]

One of the cardinal rules of model railroading is: "Never throw away anything!" Simply take the requisite number of ties from your junk box, remove the plastic nubs that originally held the rails in place, then slide the tie(s) under the rails to replace the missing ties. You may spill some CA (super) glue over them, or simply ballast them in place.

[@Greatdome99]

Why did it happen in the first place. I would remove about 3" of track and replace that instead. Those little pieces are troublesome. I see nails in the ties--not a good way to lay down track. Glue does a better job and looks far better.

[@williamcasper6215]

The nails in the ties will be removed after ballasting. I don't use glue because it makes replacing turnouts and track much easier if ballast is the only thing holding both track and roadbed in place. Working with flex track in and around tunnels and bridges or between hills offers many opportunities for error. This is a quick alternative that can be used when you are exhibiting your layout at a show and are pressed for time. My clinics are designed for the neophyte. I am very pleased that experienced modelers like you are viewing my them.

[@davidcurtis5398]

Been in this hobby for over 50 years and have been a member of several clubs besides having helped with many roads. Only an idiot would have a gap this big...

[@williamcasper6215]

People who are new to the hobby do not appreciate your crass statement. It is unfair to them and unworthy of you.

[@davidcurtis5398]

@@williamcasper6215 Just your opinion.....Instead, why not teach them that this should never happen on a good road???

[@williamcasper6215]

I have a clinic on building a complete layout from start to finish where correct track laying procedure is demonstrated. As you can see you don't know everything, so why don't you go back under your bridge and stew in your own vitriol? I hate this "social media" nonsense. I don't care what sophomoric know-it-alls like you think of my clinics!

[@davidcurtis5398]

@@williamcasper6215 I never said that I know it all but all I said was that that video was bad. And no I don't think that I will crawl back under the bridge I live under at all. I will continue to criticise bad videos like the one that started this conversation. All one has to do is to have a car to run over each splice before gluing the track down... Very simple and I'm ashamed that you didn't tell people that.

[@williamcasper6215]

You never said "that the video was bad"--you said "only an IDIOT would have a gap this big". You are a troll and a moron. This is a video on one way to deal with a gap NOT a track laying video. NOW do you UNDERSTAND! Because I cannot explain it any better than that. I am done with you!

[@gppsoftware]

To me, this is one of those videos that promotes band-aid fixes. No amount of fiddling with this joint is going to correct the original problem: low quality workmanship on track laying, evidenced by staggered rail joints (which are not permitted by many prototype administrations), rails that are clearly too short (no amount of expansion/shrinkage would cause that kind of gap), sleeper damage and track that isn't even central on its cork underlay. If I had a gap that big, I'd simply replace the track and fix the problem properly. I would not recommend the advice in this video because it is a short cut that won't fix the problem and will most likely result in uneven riding/wobble, if not, derailments. Fix it properly by replacing the track and it will never be a problem again

[@williamcasper6215]

You are correct that this is a "band-aid fix". That is what it is intended to be. It is not a clinic on how to lay track. As I have explained to others who have made the same comment, this is a temporary fix that I have used while exhibiting a layout at a show. That way I can keep running trains and then fix the problem at a later date. I am please that the majority of comments on this video are supportive. Not everyone has years of experience to guide them.

[@gppsoftware]

@@williamcasper6215 Sure, fair enough. Rail joint gaps that big don't just suddenly appear!

[@williamcasper6215]

@@gppsoftware You are right again, Graham. I made this video at the behest of several of my club members who were greatly appreciative of my help in this matter--as were many of the other viewers who have commented below. Perhaps you should make a video on the proper way to lay track avoiding serious gaps. I will watch it.

[@ronsrailroad7176]

I would replace track gap too big

[@AstroKnight187]

It's not hard to replace it, but replacing track can waste an entire piece of perfectly good track