How to make HO Scale Atlas Switches work reliable

[@kjamison5951]

For folks on a budget, guaranteed switch activation and no risk of derailment. First time viewer. Liked and subscribed. Thank you.

[@Paul--88]

I have Atlas switches that are over twenty years old and have not had a problem with them. I have mine all powered. I am expanding my layout and will try this.

[@RichardKuivila1947]

YUP, a great TUBO video !

[@tomt9543]

My first thought was “trash it and replace w/Peco!”. Great vid!

[@RichardKuivila1947]

Hard to find really informative TuBo How TUZ, This is one of them !

[@raymondjackson6069]

The best fix I got for my Atlas switches was to change to PECO. PECO's are hardly ever an issue. Atlas's were always an issue. Thanks for the tip, regardless!

[@tonyromano6220]

😂😂😂

[@Syclone0044]

Maybe you can go on some car repair videos and tell them how “the best fix “ is to just buy a Rolls Royce too. No I’m kidding. But yeah I acquired just a few PECO turnouts and they indeed are well constructed, what impressed me the most besides the spring loaded rails, are the points rails are filed very fine and thin at the tips for a really perfect profile.

[@raymondjackson6069]

@@Syclone0044 PECO's aren't that much more expensive, especially for the quality you get. It's just a much better made switch.

[@ericb.davenport9762]

Will a PECO switch work with other Atlas track?

[@Syclone0044]

@@ericb.davenport9762 as long as they’re both code 100

[@tolonowicki9516]

The simple thing is, as you can see, they are brilliant. Thanks 😀

[@RichardKuivila1947]

Yuppers !

[@davidcurtis5398]

Very nice video. I really like the retro fit of the cheaper switches. i work with 4-H children and the most expressed thought is that the hobby is so expensive to start with. I use the switches like the onesyou have in the video and have been trying to have a very cheep way to convert the switches without a lot of money spent. thank you for doing this video.

[@RichardKuivila1947]

GREAT Idea ! An "Over Center" Spring. and EZPZ too ! TANKS ! I have used this concept for my "Drawers on Ceiling" patent pending, 2024.

[@luke_atthat]

Great tip ! Thank you ! The use of a paperclip is lot faster than what I did 3 years ago with small rod hard to bend. Next time I will do it your way !

[@RichardKuivila1947]

The slight work hardening from the bending helps, too...

[@modelrailroader5619]

That’s a nice positive throw! Wish I’d done this before installation, my homemade springs are all on the top, camouflaged with paint.😉

[@dannymacnevin3939]

That's awesome! I started doing all my switches like this years ago, and they worked well. This layout is fairly new because we just bought this house within the last few years and so I'm just getting everything back and setup again. But all the switches on here have been re-purposed from the old layout. With the exception of a few curved radius switches that I bought used on a market place. They are Shinohara switches, but I also did the same trick to them as well, and they work great! If you ever need to pull a switch, that's when you could do one switch at a time. They really do work quite well like this. It holds the switch points tight to the rail, but also pulls them tight down the length of the rail as well, which takes any play out of the pivot points where the rivets are. Usually this is a problem area as they are not held tight back there, but the clips do hold them tight. And by putting my little twist in the clip where it protrudes through the tie, it actually performs two jobs. One, it prevents the paper clip from falling out of the hole, and two it actually holds a little tension upwards on the switch points, holding them more level with the top of the rails.

[@tommysager138]

I'm looking forward to trying this tip. My railroad is a real 'Scratch & Dent Railroad' (Garage-Sale stuff), and as a result I have some cheap weak switches just sitting around in a box. Time to give the junk a new life.

[@RichardKuivila1947]

You gotz the best stuff. a Little fixin' and BAZINGA !

[@earlwidmeyer2654]

Danny. Another tip I found with switches that have the riveted point on the diverging rail. I found that the rivet was loose and therefore it had poor conductivity of power. It is really noticeable for sensitive DCC engines. I took a center punch and a hammer to reseat or pinch the rivet back together. Re-check the alignment of the diverging rail. Also, some switches have too deep of a frog or too wide of an opening. When the wheel crosses over it , it will drop down into the opening. This causes derailments or at the least, very "bouncy" look as the cars and engine go over the frog. I take a thin piece of cardboard and press it over the frog to get it's outline. I then cut it out to fit the space. Once I'm Happy with the fit , I use a black marker to blend it into the frog, It works great! I hope other modelers see these tips and I hope it helps them out too!!

[@RichardKuivila1947]

GOOD catch, Good Fix !

[@michaelsmodelrailroading7665]

A great video! Thanks for producing and sharing this invaluable tip. Atlas track and turnouts have their place. Your tip does improve their reliability.

[@scottpool4777]

Excellent thank you for switches unreal I’m going to try that on my layoff thank you.

[@mikeggg5671]

You know I just tried this. I made it work, but I don't have that satisfying click that you have. But I also haven't tried to install the switch yet. I just have it on the workbench. But this is definitely an incredible solution!

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Thank you. If you experiment with the radius of the curve on the paperclip, or how wide the points of the paperclip are apart before you put them in the holes, it will change the performance. I try to be very careful not to "squeeze" the points together as I'm installing them. If you do, you can collapse the curve on the paperclip, making it not as solid of a snap. Experiment with it, and once you get it sorted out, it will work fantastic! Glad you are trying it. Thank you!

[@Curious_Skeptic]

I have insane amounts of turnouts dating back to the 60s and 70s. Not looking forward to dealing with them, but not going to waste money on new stuff. Not at today's retail pricing! Some turn outs cost as much or more than a nice diesel loco! Two or three, you are up to a DCC Loco! No way to justify $40-80 per turnout! That's without the switch motor and switch! LOL. I would do just about anything to restore the majority of my old turnouts. Many are in very nice condition. Looking at ways to clean them up without sanding. Thinking ultrasonic cleaner with some sort of metal cleaner. Great video. Wish more would find this video! So much old stock is going to trash or rotting away in a box! You got me wondering if I could 3d print something like this ready to go so it just snaps in and done. Hmmmm

[@doug4357]

I'm going to try this but I'll have to do it from the top. It's a powered switch so I might have to play with the strength of the clip. Thanks for the idea! Keep the videos coming. Really enjoyed the two I've watched.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Thank you! Yes, I plan on doing more.

[@motorman1993]

Great job I did it to one of my atlas switch’s it worked great thank you for this information

[@kevinjansen2738]

New sub here. Also in Ontario. Also a Harley rider and a train guy. Look forward to more videos. I install similar springs I make out of music wire and they install from the top

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Nice! I have done a few from the top before as well. I forgot those old videos were on there. That's an old sportster I used to own. Fun little bike. I also had an 07, CVO Softail Springer (which you can see in the background of the video parked by the garage door around the 2:10 mark). It was even more fun with the 110CID, S&S Intake, Exhaust, Chipped and programmed. She'd Dig! lol. I have sold both of those bikes since. We have moved into the camping in the summer. Much safer driving a huge dually what with all the distracted drivers out there now! Stay Safe!

[@rolandhersom239]

Good one. I have one of those same drills hidden in my stuff somewhere. Used to use it on my model aircraft.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Lol. That's what mine was for. It's actually from about 25 years ago! We were in to Model airplanes and I bought it. I still reach for it, for fine work, rather than my Dremel. Too funny!

[@josephcosta5161]

So are they all snap switching? Can you do the same for the remote atlas to get it to snap like yours, thanks, joe

[@thomasnaegel]

Works perfekt with Tillig Elite turnouts too. Thank you very much!

[@raymondrion6712]

Thanks for the informative video.

[@JSnyder-ig4wq]

Thanks! Nice job, good teacher!

[@bryanlake5403]

Love it! What a great idea. I’ll certainly try this.

[@kevinbohnenblust5844]

That's a great hack! Thank you for sharing!

[@josephwujek1488]

This is a great trick that I have used several times, thanks Danny.

[@thehappyvintagesloth9676]

Amazing. Can’t wait to try this!

[@ATrainGames]

Well played, sir! Just want to make sure to file down those sharp cut edges of the pins, and be VERY CAREFUL of those little pieces of paperclip flying off when cutting. I might even suggest getting a heavier-duty pair of side-cutters (or use a Dremel) to cut the paperclip. I wouldn't want to mess up my nice Xuron rail cutters on steel. Thanks for sharing! Peco is NOT going to be happy if you cut into their sales with this tip! :D

[@Syclone0044]

I’ve ruined way too many Xuron side cutters thinking a tiny silver grab iron wire would be soft. NOPE. Chomped a nasty bite out of my cutting tips and failed to cut the grab iron to size! Wish Walthers had better QC so they don’t need to be trimmed to install in the first place but Walthers never seems to care about quality that much.

[@chuckhuthmakerlvrr8866]

Sir, you are a genius! Where were you 15 years ago when I was laying my track? Although I use ground throws, the points don't always lock in place. I may just pull up a couple of turnouts and add the paperclips. Thank you.

[@Syclone0044]

If you use the Caboose Industries ground throws, he makes sprung and unsprung versions of both styles. My understanding is the spring should give a positive rail engagement. I wonder if your ground throws are mounted out of alignment one way or the other and not centered with respect to the switch travel.

[@andybowser4815]

First time viewer.Liked and subscibed.

[@dankelsey2920]

glad I saw this idea...Thanks

[@dannymacnevin3939]

You're welcome. It works really well. Have fun!

[@freddiemathis8946]

You said something about weighting could you explain the process please and I like your ideal

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Hello, I have a second video on here, on how I usually add weight to my rolling stock. I believe that's what you are referencing. Please feel free to check it out as well. Thank you for watching!

[@markattardo]

Great idea! Thanks for taking the time to make a video👍

[@dannymacnevin3939]

You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@MP-16productions]

Thanks and I really works well I am going to install it on all my switches

[@gunfighterzero]

That's a neat little hack

[@MarkInLA]

Sorry. I was a tad rude earlier.. But, unless you now have KA (keep alive) installed in your locos, there is nothing can be done with this particular type old code 100 Snap Switch far as stall outs over its plastic frog. With Atlas code 83 Customline switches the frog is metal and can be powered to prevent a stall out is what I was getting at...You can firm up/add spring action to hold the points in position, yes. But nothing is going to improve a plastic-frogged T.O. except KA or speeding trains thru it at 90 MPH... btw: 0:07 Right there in box is a power-able metal-frogged Shinohara/Walthers switch which very much can use your nice spring design with, as it's a 'power-routing', all metal rail switch.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

I beg to differ with you. I run all DCC locomotives. My smallest are SW1200 switchers with 2 axle trucks. I use an Accutrack II speedometer and I have all of my locomotives speed matched, and have a limit on my layout of 30MPH. Using the Accutrack, I have them all speed matched, and they all top out at 30MPH. I run everything at scaled speeds, and do not have any stall outs over the frogs. I keep my tracks clean, and I make sure I do good solder joints and I have zero troubles. Maybe I will make a follow up video of the locos running someday. Lately I have been super swamped at work, and I also play music in several bands, and a "gun for hire" as well, so the layout has been taking a back burner. But I will hopefully be able to get back at it soon. I develop software for Aerospace for a living, and I plan on designing my own software for various things on the layout. But that might come once I retire. Cheers!

[@Syclone0044]

The Atlas Custom Line switches he showed, in fact have a metal frog that can be powered if you’re one of very few people who have 2 axle locos. (I’ve never seen a 2 axle loco here in Wisconsin USA). By the way, The switch you mention at 0:07 is clearly an old Shinohara which is NON DCC compatible with that metal bar joining the points. As well as it’s solid rail non-insulated frog.

[@Devilninja333]

I hope this works on the three way turnout

[@4everdc302]

Wiser golf clap, sir 👏 🚂🇨🇦🙋

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Lol. Thank you!

[@davidrichie9570]

Question: the paper clip is not tempered or hardened “spring” material. When bent it does not snap back as a true spring would do. So are you concerned that it will eventually stop being springy?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Those paperclips are pretty hard, and they don't want to change shape without some, what I call "Plyer persuasion" and all I can say is I have some switches here that I did, 25 years ago, and they still snap just as hard today, as they did when I first did them. So I am not concerned. Thanks for watching the video. Cheers!

[@RichardKuivila1947]

Show us how you fixed the drill tooth issue ! TANKS !

[@Tom-xe9iq]

Great tip! Thanks for sharing!

[@tompPRR8976]

Very nice. I liked and subscribed. I'm new to HO (returning 50 years after my last HO layout). What kind of wiring did you need to do to have power continue through all 3 sides of the switch? Thanks very much.

[@MrSteen12]

Great idea. It looks a little difficult drilling like that. You can buy an electrical drill or a drill bit with a handle like on a screwdriver. Much cheaper and easy to work with. Regards Steen, Denmark.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

that's funny. One other guy mentioned my drill as well. I've had it for 20+ years, as I used it when building model aircraft. I have a Dremel with all the attachments. Believe it or not, when drilling a tiny hole such as this, that little drill works great. It just doesn't appear that way on video. thanks for watching!

[@MrSteen12]

@@dannymacnevin3939 Ok. My next qwestion is: When you have a Dremel, How come you use that drill, you use in your Video? You're welcome. I'm following Charly Bishob, but I like to find other channels to get other idears. Steen.

[@mikehagen3785]

​@@MrSteen12it's called a pin vise, and for very little drill bits, it's the best way to be accurate and not burn up or brake the small bits required for modeling. Try it sometime

[@robertschmidt6383]

I'm blown away at how tight and secure the switch is. I never saw that before. Great job. Did you come up with that idea?

[@ATrainGames]

This is terrific, but is what Peco does on their switches. Just much more economical. :)

[@the-trojan]

Gteat video!! Best center over rig i have seen so far. Have you tried this with remote switch machines as well? I am on a budget and buy virtually all my stuff used on ebay, so its great to pick up a tip here and there to save a buck. There will always be naysayers so just keep calm and carry on. You have earned my subscription.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Hi, sorry I'm just seeing the message now. The stock Atlas remote switch machines don't have a very good lever for throwing the switch. Depending on the thickness of your paper clip, and how wide you make your loop in the back of the clip, it can really make the switch snap hard! (if you watched the video to the end, I demo'd them on my layout. They snap pretty hard). I manually throw all my switches just using a skewer stick, so it's no big deal for me. But I also used to use the Atlas switch machines. I just really found I like the very positive stop of the switches now with the paperclip in there, and so I stopped using my switch machines. When I designed this layout, I did it with the thought of being able to reach all my switches easily. You could try using a smaller paperclip to reduce the tension and test it out with a switch machine and see if it would work for you. If you try it, and it does work, please let me know. I would be interested in finding that out. Thank you for the kind words!

[@csgmtgu]

Great video. What size paper clips are those? I want to buy the exact same ones

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Thank you. They are about 1-1/8 inches long. The diameter I'm not sure of, but they are just everyday normal paper clips. Smooth surface, with no ribbing. I believe I either bought them at Walmart or Staples. I no longer have the package. But pretty near any old paperclip will work. As long as it has some good tension.

[@garrettaldershoff7849]

Dan: Thank you for this video

[@garyhess3139]

Did this years ago when I was a model R/R.👍👍

[@lorenzobeckmann3736]

I will try tthis. thanks bro

[@sooriyawijeraythna8045]

It’s not cheap our old days

[@rzmiscera]

Could I not use the topical side switch throw added to the side as well?

[@jdmills4370]

Excellent Thank you I intend to use many “repurposed” switches. Very informative What is your plan for ballast? How will you avoid fouling the new mechanism?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Hello, I have done this on a previous layout, and all I did was put a small bit of tape over that area while ballasting. You never want ballast in that area of your switch anyway, as it can cause other issues, so I just leave those couple ties with no ballast. If any does get down in there, a quick vacuum fixes it. Cheers!

[@jdmills4370]

@@dannymacnevin3939 thank you

[@roux2003]

Great diy improvement! Do you know if you can remote power the switch with this modification?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

I have never tried that. I always manually switch my switches. You could try it with one first and see if it would be powerful enough to switch it. The paperclips do hold them pretty tight. Thanks for watching!

[@larrybaughman618]

Very nice, thank you for sharing.

[@ericb.davenport9762]

Danny, great video. Thank you. However, from your knowledge will a PECO switch work with other Atlas track?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

As long as it's the same code, you should have no issues at all! Thanks for watching!

[@michaelrogalla9620]

Awesome Danny. Thanks

[@amyreynolds3619]

What about caboose throw or under table controls

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Is there a way to improve wheel movement thru the frog , Walthers crossover derailment sometimes at the frog , going to subscribe your channel hello from Dundas Ontario

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Thank you. I haven't done much lately. But the plan is to move my layout to a different room in the house. So I will have a bunch more videos when that happens.

[@skerbs7755]

I never knew that was possible! Does it work also with Code 83 Atlas also? Thank you for sharing this wonderful tip!

[@laurensiemens1436]

Nice video...do you get any derailments?

[@Eddee26]

Once modified, are these still able to be switched remotely? It looks like a lot of resistance is being created...

[@dannymacnevin3939]

I switch all of mine manually. I haven't tried running a remote on them. You can adjust how much tension is there, by adjusting the width of the loop on the paperclip. Thanks for watching!

[@danmah7575]

I've implemented this on my Atlas switches that I operate remotely, and can confirm that it does still work. But you do need to finetune how much you bend the paperclips. There's a small sweetspot between too much resistance and zero resistance that the stock switch motors can move. I got it through trial and error before permanently installing the switches. Good luck!

[@christopherbendel]

I love this idea, but am wondering if this prevents using some type of switch machine too?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Depending on the strength of the switch machine, you should be ok. I just happen to have a box of old switches I repurposed from another layout. I use manual control of my switches with a long stick, so it is not a problem for me. However, like I say, if you have a strong enough switch machine, it should still work. This just helps create a more positive stop for the points, and holds them tighter to the rail. Let me know how you make out if you try a switch machine. I'd be interested to know. Thanks!

[@deeppurple3489]

Awesome idea!

[@CarolSteinfeld]

Possible to do this with a DCC controller? Thanks for making this video! Impressive.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Yes. My entire layout runs DCC. Thank you!

[@davepanichelle1478]

You only addressed one of the many problems with cheap atlas switches. What about the frogs and I sharpened switch points?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

The frogs are not a problem on any of my switches. If you are having issues with the frogs, chances are it's the rails leading up to the frog. Like I mentioned in the below comment, there's ways to wire these switches to make them work flawlessly, even with DCC. (I'm going to do a video on that as well). Also, I try to run all my locos at a scaled speed, and speed match them all using JMRI, and run speed limits. I use #6's, #8's, #4's, but they are all Atlas switches I've had for years! The things I have are Time and Lots of switches kicking around, what I don't have is lots of money to throw at replacing all of my switches. So I make due with what I have. If you take your time, and study how all of your rolling stock navigates these switches, you can make them run very nice, plastic frogs and all.

[@laurensiemens1436]

with that link on the bottom you then can design a link to set up with a push button control panel

[@tonyromano6220]

Clever.

[@greenglass2]

did this to 2 atlas #4s that had no throwers, now its better

[@RichardKuivila1947]

What is "to 2 atlas". ?

[@greenglass2]

@@RichardKuivila1947 i fixed 2 atlas turnouts.

[@bob8409]

Do you know of any way to do this to atlas ho true track? The switch gets caught on my on30 locomotives.

[@BsrlinMAZ]

Thank you for this information and d.i.y. guide. Do you think this would work in same manner for n-scale...probably have to tweak the tension of the clip I would presume? I am preparing to build my first ever model train layout (n-scale, approx. 5'x14'). Thank you for sharing your knowledge, advice and tips for this hobby. Liked/subscribed.

[@randystrunk9774]

Will this work on a remote power switch?

[@jimjohnston7688]

Like it, I'm going to give it a try.

[@BlackPearlMusicVideos]

So what size is the drill bit?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

That is a really great question! I think if I remember correctly it was 3/64 inch. I don't have my calipers here, but when I lay it on my tape, it's a little larger than 1/32, so I'm pretty sure it was 3/64 inch.

[@dankavanaugh6535]

Great video. I have been trying to figure out a way to get my Atlas code 83 18" radius snap switches to stay in place without purchasing Caboose ground throws for all 35 turnouts on the layout. I believe that the code 83 snap switches are the same as code 100 #4s. I am guessing that this same method will work with code 83....... has anyone tried this with code 83????

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Hello, there was a guy that had commented on a FB group I was in that said he was having trouble with the code 83 because the ties were further apart. So I tested it with a radius switch I had here, and you just need to alter the shape of the paperclip slightly. But it did work. I had another video showing how that switch worked, but I haven't uploaded it yet to KZbin. But I will. Thanks for watching the video!

[@misterflibble6601]

I did this with my Atlas code 83 #4 and #6 switches and it worked fine

[@MarkInLA]

Please see my post above.. Even if you firm up the points with a spring, the plastic frog in older code 100 will still potentially cause stall outs especially with small 2 axle locos unless you equip them all with KA...

[@rohitkhanna]

Genius !!! 😄

[@limoseengoing329]

How about power? Does it help, that's there worst problem.

[@HenryWhipker]

Thanks

[@LifeOfRiley2166]

Have you tried this using Tortoise switch machines?

[@thomaswashburn3396]

will this work with a Switch Machine on the Switch? Would it overpower the Switch Machine? If it does work with a Switch Machine can this be done to an installed Switch?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

I'm not sure. I have never tried it as all my switches are manual throw. Would be interesting to test that.

[@thomaswashburn3396]

@@dannymacnevin3939 It's been a little time now to see if a powered switch would work. I used Atlas code 100 Snap Switches throughout my layout and have been having issues with all kinds of things. From uncoupling of cars, derailments, and to second truck misdirecting. This is do, I think, to switches not properly opening or closing thigh enough. Being this is my first real layout I went with these switches because I thought they would work will as their name sounded. "Snap Switches" made me fell that they would make a tighter fit. But it really didn't work out that way ads I found out the hard way. And now I am looking into other sources.

[@WeedMIC]

Brilliant!

[@gregoryamer]

Excellent!

[@jalong5683]

Nice video. Tried it about 4 times with no success.

[@CameronTata-pn9vu]

😊 Great tip , Will Use In future , Cheers From NZ

[@thejudgemeister]

Has anyone been able to use this method or some method like it with a control switch?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Hi. I manually throw all my switches, but depending on the strength of the paperclip, it could take a substantial motor to move the points. But it's worth a try.

[@Greatdome99]

.05 cents is pretty cheap!

[@santhosh5796]

Could you please check the exact thickness or width of ho scale rail head with vernier caliper and tell me?

[@dannymacnevin3939]

The best I can suggest is to buy an NMRA gauge. It has the actual measurements for all your standard flange widths, track spacings etc. That's the best way to check all of that stuff.

[@thomeedee]

Nice !!

[@thomeedee]

Nice narration as well.

[@RichardKuivila1947]

So..ATLAS is a "cheap old Switch " ?

[@roberthubal6278]

Yeah!!

[@RichardKuivila1947]

I call my Lay Ooot a Layout.

[@andyhewitt7588]

Did you mean … “work reliably”?

[@Chris.Davies]

Reliably. Adjectives are not now, and never will be adverbs.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Ya, I know it is wrong, and it killed me to put it that way, however, I'm a computer programmer, and I have a pretty decent understanding of how the algorithms and search engines work. So trust me when I say, the key words "Atlas Switches" and "Reliable" hits way more than "Reliably". I knew it was wrong, but I left it there for that reason. Don't hate me! Thanks for watching.

[@Syclone0044]

@@dannymacnevin3939Your algorithm understanding must be pretty good because this video appeared at the very top left number 1 position in today’s recommended videos for me!!

[@MarkInLA]

And just listen to the sound of nothingness as locos stall out on my old plastic-frogged SnapTrack switches !

[@dannymacnevin3939]

If your loco is stalling out, you need to address your wiring / track cleaning. I am going to make a video on that as well, on how I wire these switches for reliable trouble free running, regardless if you have plastic frogs. All you need is a multi-meter and a little knowledge of how the electricity flows through the rails, some small wire, and the ability to solder. So, unless you are using a super small single axle loco, anything from short shunters like SW900's all the way up to larger locos (my largest are SD45's) will operate reliably. And before you ask, yes I run DCC.

[@RichardKuivila1947]

A super slow Chineez DC gear motor, and a two position DPDT w/ centre off, with a stiff wire actuator arm fixed to da shaff, under the Lay OOOT, will switch da switch Bak an Fort wit dis paper clip mod on CHEAPO Atlas ! priceless ! YEA ! Duh, it du says: "1947" ... TMI ?

[@bobobobbledoo482]

Reliably, not reliable.

[@alanfbrookes9771]

So, you've converted your switch into a Peco switch. They've been building them like that since the early 1960s. In fact, you're probably contravening their patent.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Lol... I doubt it. And I have a box of 100+ old Atlas switches, and a ton of other people do as well. I'm not making money off of this in any way! It's a way for people to make their old atlas switches more reliable. (but I guess if you'd a read the video title you'd of known that.) thanks for watching. :)

[@PapaMav]

@@dannymacnevin3939 "alan" just seems like one of those internet dbags...TY for the great tip Danny.

[@imeric3026]

This doesn't address the issues. Points become loose, either in the rivets or the plastic. Now that you basically just made the Pico spring in them you push on the rails and will make the plastic failure worse and quicker.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

That is not true at all. I've been running switches like this for about 20 years now, and have had zero troubles with them. Those number 4 switches in my yard have been used in two previous layouts of mine, in two previous homes. They have been used, ripped out, used again, ripped out and used again. Not sure how much you would have to use a switch to wear out the rivets, but this works 100%. Enjoy!

[@imeric3026]

@@dannymacnevin3939 what's not true? The part that all this did was replicate the peco spring for them? Or are you telling me my experience isn't true? If you have NO issues how would this video help you and how do you know what others experience? I like the video for what it shows, but the headline is misleading saying it makes them reliable, all it did is keep the points from moving if they hold tight to the sleepers. (On a funny note, I've had quite a few of my atlas from when I was a kid, roughly 25 years, so maybe in another 5 they will act up)

[@dannymacnevin3939]

@@imeric3026 Your statement, "This doesn't address the issue. Points become loose, either the rivets or the plastic"... That is NOT TRUE! This DOES address the issue, and this is for people (like myself) that have boxes of Atlas switches that do not want to replace them all with PECO. The only thing that PECO has going for it, in reliability is the spring that holds the points tight against the rails. Most derailment issues, and most complaints I have heard in the past from people are that Atlas switches do not hold the points tight enough and the wheel flanges get behind the points. So this DOES fix an Atlas switch, and it DOES make them work more reliable. So the title is 100% correct. It not only holds the points tight to the side, but also tight length ways down the switch as well. So when you snap the switch one way or another, the switch points hold firm and almost become as one with the rails. In my experience (and I've been at this for about 40 years) if you are having issues with Atlas switches, they are either (a) Not installed correctly, (b) Your rolling stock is out of gauge or (c) your switch points are moving as the locos and rolling stock pass through them. All I can tell you, is try it! You will find the switch points are held in place solid! They do not move and become as reliable as a solid piece of track. So good luck, and if you already have Peco swtiches, then why are you watching this video in the first place? This is for people that have Atlas switches and they want to make them more reliable! Have a nice day. :)

[@imeric3026]

@@dannymacnevin3939 I'm transitioning out of atlas. But all of my atlas already had the plastic piece held in place because of ground throws or the servo motors. I thought this was something to fix it rather than just a spring to change the way it's already held. What you share is cool, but it doesn't change anything for me because the things I use already hold the sliding tie in place, and I still have the issues with them.

[@dannymacnevin3939]

@@imeric3026 well, I guess you are not willing to try it. The switch motors just hold it side to side, my spring holds it side to side, front to back it pulls it tight, and it also helps lift the points up so they are even with the rails. It works in 3 dimensions. But I guess you know more than me. The only time I have ever had an issue with Atlas switch, that wasn't caused by the points moving, it was installed improperly or the rolling stock was not gauged properly. Anyway, if you have the money to throw away your switches, and buy new ones, then good for you. A lot of people don't. This is for those people. Cheers!

[@laurensiemens1436]

These switches are not cheap any more

[@dannymacnevin3939]

Ya, nothing is cheap anymore. But what I was getting at, was for people who (like myself) have boxes of old switches laying around, or might have bought a bunch from a used market place. Rather than replacing them, or not wanting to use them, this was a way to try and make them more reliable and operational. I have been using this method for years, and I can honestly say, it works really well. Thank you for watching!

[@Syclone0044]

Really? 10 years ago I bought an insane amount of atlas switches, probably 1/3 snap switch and 2/3 custom line, all code 100, I must have 100+ and I have been dreading selling them, what do they go for nowadays?